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One thing alot of guys has ran into is the nut being pushed up against the barrel an not letting the nut spin lose.
LOL! Precisely where I am at now except my armorers wrench, a crappy Gem State Armorers wrench, has given up the ghost. Main body has warped, inserts have deformed and indexing pins have come loose. I will be purchasing a Magpul wrench from somewhere before the weekend is over.
I did manage to move the nut and barrel together for slightly over a full turn without success.
Using a barrel vice or the action in a vice? Use a barrel vice with mine to keep the barrel from moving. Might have to see if you can get the action to turn lose if the nut with an action wrench
Once the barrel nut is slightly loosened you should be able to spin the receiver off the barrel. Then when the action is completely off the barrel you can fully take off the barrel nut from the barrel
I watched Franks video a few times to make sure I had my directions down so to speak. It helped me out. Now I’ve done a couple and they are easy to do.
Several pages back someone was asking about getting an RPR in 300 PRC and being able to swap in a 6.5 PRC barrel.
The question was being able to reliably feed it out of the long action mags. Has anyone done this or have any ideas about it?
The question was being able to reliably feed it out of the long action mags. Has anyone done this or have any ideas about it?
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Well, the Magpul wrench arrived today and I went to work with the barrel held in a vise. The Magpul wrench on the barrel nut with a 2 foot long piece of pipe on it trying to turn counter clockwise when looking from the muzzle. And, the Anarchy Outdoors action rod in the receiver twisting in the opposite direction (clockwise) of the barrel nut. NOTHING MOVED!
I current have a gap about a business card thick between the threaded end of the barrel nut and the barrel’s shoulder so I believe I should be able to get the barrel nut to break free by trying to loosen it off the receiver. My hope is that if I can accomplish this then I can remove the receiver using the action rod. However, this appears to be much easier said than done!
Is it just a matter of using greater force (longer cheater bars/pipes
) or is there something else I should try first?
Maybe put some heat on the end of the receiver and barrel nut to see if I can get some expansion and then try to turn the receiver/nut assembly off together as one unit? Is this a terrible idea?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’m beginning to get frustrated and am about ready to take this to a pro to handle with their “big boy” tools.
I current have a gap about a business card thick between the threaded end of the barrel nut and the barrel’s shoulder so I believe I should be able to get the barrel nut to break free by trying to loosen it off the receiver. My hope is that if I can accomplish this then I can remove the receiver using the action rod. However, this appears to be much easier said than done!
Is it just a matter of using greater force (longer cheater bars/pipes
) or is there something else I should try first?Maybe put some heat on the end of the receiver and barrel nut to see if I can get some expansion and then try to turn the receiver/nut assembly off together as one unit? Is this a terrible idea?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’m beginning to get frustrated and am about ready to take this to a pro to handle with their “big boy” tools.
Well, the Magpul wrench arrived today and I went to work with the barrel held in a vise. The Magpul wrench on the barrel nut with a 2 foot long piece of pipe on it trying to turn counter clockwise when looking from the muzzle. And, the Anarchy Outdoors action rod in the receiver twisting in the opposite direction (clockwise) of the barrel nut. NOTHING MOVED!
I current have a gap about a business card thick between the threaded end of the barrel nut and the barrel’s shoulder so I believe I should be able to get the barrel nut to break free by trying to loosen it off the receiver. My hope is that if I can accomplish this then I can remove the receiver using the action rod. However, this appears to be much easier said than done!
Is it just a matter of using greater force (longer cheater bars/pipes
Maybe put some heat on the end of the receiver and barrel nut to see if I can get some expansion and then try to turn the receiver/nut assembly off together as one unit? Is this a terrible idea?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’m beginning to get frustrated and am about ready to take this to a pro to handle with their “big boy” tools.
I had my barrel firmly in a barrel vice, so I grabbed my heavy rubber mallet and whacked the wrench a couple of firm strokes. On the second whack, the barrel nut broke free. If that hadn't worked, I was prepared to apply some heat to the barrel nut. I've used heat a few times before to loosen up nuts (mostly on engines) and it works pretty well. You really don't want to heat the receiver to get the nut loose as you just want the nut to expand a little. But if there's a problem with getting the barrel loose from the receiver, then heat to the receiver where the barrel screws in would be an option.
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Try this. I also used a shit ton of MPPL from maxima oils and let it soak in for 20-30 minutes. I also use a empty toilet paper roll, cut and rolled around the barrel where it resides in the vise for extra grip too.
Been trying a 2 lb. dead blow hammer to no avail. How big a mallet did you have to use?
SUCCESS!!!! Finally got the barrel nut loose. Just needed to use a bigger hammer!!! Choked up on an 8# sledge hammer, gave it two little love taps, and everything came apart no problem in 5 seconds.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement you all provided here. It gave me the confidence to stay on it.
sledge hammer, gave it two little love taps, and everything came apart no problem in 5 seconds.Thanks for all the advice and encouragement you all provided here. It gave me the confidence to stay on it.
Hell ya nice! Clean that barrel nut good. If it was anything like mine it was caked up with red loctite. CongratsSUCCESS!!!! Finally got the barrel nut loose. Just needed to use a bigger hammer!!! Choked up on an 8#
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement you all provided here. It gave me the confidence to stay on it.
Not quite there yet! On to the next issue!
Went to put handguard back on and slid nut assembly down barrel to screw it onto the barrel nut and it would not go the last 4” or so.
I did some measuring of the outside diameters of the barrels over the thickest portion, last 3.5-4” closest to the receiver, and the inside diameter of the handguard nut opening. The diameters are as follows:
RPR original factory barrel OD: 1.001”
RPR Gen 2 handguard nut ID: 1.015”
RPR prefit replacement barrel OD: 1.024”
Evident from the above measurements, the handguard nut easily slides over the factory barrel without interference. Unfortunately, it hangs up about 4” short of its intended location over the thicker diameter of the prefit barrel. Barrel is sourced from a very reputable and well known supplier but I would have expected an RPR prefit part to have fit directly without interference as supplied.
1. Anyone here run into this issue before?
2. Did I simply get an out of spec barrel?
3. Should I just have the inside diameter of the handguard nut opened up another .015” and save the hassle of removing barrel and perhaps having to send it back?
Thanks again for your suggestions!
Went to put handguard back on and slid nut assembly down barrel to screw it onto the barrel nut and it would not go the last 4” or so.
I did some measuring of the outside diameters of the barrels over the thickest portion, last 3.5-4” closest to the receiver, and the inside diameter of the handguard nut opening. The diameters are as follows:
RPR original factory barrel OD: 1.001”
RPR Gen 2 handguard nut ID: 1.015”
RPR prefit replacement barrel OD: 1.024”
Evident from the above measurements, the handguard nut easily slides over the factory barrel without interference. Unfortunately, it hangs up about 4” short of its intended location over the thicker diameter of the prefit barrel. Barrel is sourced from a very reputable and well known supplier but I would have expected an RPR prefit part to have fit directly without interference as supplied.
1. Anyone here run into this issue before?
2. Did I simply get an out of spec barrel?
3. Should I just have the inside diameter of the handguard nut opened up another .015” and save the hassle of removing barrel and perhaps having to send it back?
Thanks again for your suggestions!
I messaged the barrel nut inner diameter a little bit. My pva barrel was 1.25 outer diameter. I got a round rasp and took a tiny amount of material off. Hit the barrel nut with a lite coat of black spray paint and done. Gen2 handguard here.
Thanks Hardpan. Been thinking of doing that as well.
To confirm, you could initially not slide the handguard nut all the way to reach the threads... it hung up on the last few inches.
I have 3 of them, 1 on a 308 (AB Arms Mod-X chassis), 1 on a 223 bolt gun (MDT chassis) and 1 on a 223 AR-15. They are probably not as good as a Magpul PRS (take that with a grain of salt because I don't own a Magpul...just too expensive for my tastes), but they are OK.
The butt pad is a hard plastic so you probably wouldn't want to use it on anything with a stout recoil, as is. Its not been an issue for me because, as a relatively big guy, I use slip on butt pads on mine to extend the length of pull. However, for the same reason, I have had issues with comb height on the 308 that required a slight modification of the cheek piece so it would go higher in its adjustment range to compensate for a scope that is very tall.
The bottom of the Luth stock makes a decent bag rider, so I don't feel any modifications are required there.
I can't speak to the use of the Luth on a RPR, since I have 2 RPRs and am actually quite happy with the Ruger stock they came with, although I did have to fabricate a bag rider for the bottom of each of them.
Finally, since the Luth AR stock is relatively inexpensive, if you need a change, it might be worthwhile to get one and try it out.
Man Oh Man, I wish I loved my RPR like you guys. I don't like the trigger but it shoots good. Just don't have the passion, impressed what you guys have done with your RPR's. My Buddy loves his out to 1,360 all day long. I did put a PRS stock online too.
PB
PB
Try the timney 2 stage. I like 2 stage triggers so it was a no brainer but it is night and day from the factory one. It breaks clean and the pull weight is just right imo
My trigger is actually pretty nice. I haven’t put a gauge on it but it breaks clean and feels light enough. I just got this rifle a week ago so I’m still getting use to it. I’m going to hold off replacing the stock until I shoot it a little more. The LOP kept coming loose but I really tightened up the cam lever and that seemed to work. I’ve been doing a little barrel break in and load work at the same time. Groups are not terrible, hopefully they will shrink some with a little more work. Here’s the best 100 yd. group so far.
Attachments
The groups will get a little better after break in. Try different cartridges to see what it likes. My factory barrel like 130’s. Others have liked 140 and heavier.
Had the same issue trying to remove my stock barrel also. It was a BEAST! to take off. Our solution is to have the breaker bar on and then slide a piece of steel pipe (about 30" or so) over it and then lean into it. When it popped loose we were afraid we have broken it, but it was just the 'seal' of the nut finally giving way. No harm no foul. Must have torqued it at the factory at 60+ lbs.!
BTW, I'm 5'11" and my friend is 6'3" 235lbs and he couldn't budge it at first either. The pipe was the definitive factor
Magpul PRS. Spend the money and you'll never look back.
what LOP is everyone getting with the PRS? Everywhere I look says the shortest you can go with it on the RPR is 15" which is a lot longer than any rifle I own..
Can't tell you off hand. Had it on for 2+ years. Perfect fit from inside elbow to the grip/trigger for me. Best part is that one can adjust the lift and length while your cheek is still on the riser. You cannot do that with a standard RPR stock. Too many flips and screws and tension adjustments.
I got the same minimum lop, too long for me so I sold it. Got a bag rider for my RPR buttstock and I’m diggin it now
Curious, what does this have to do with a Ruger Precision Rifle? Did you perhaps post on wrong thread?
maybe River is really Ruger? Spellcheck?
Yes, Ruger...sorry ... have been reading about RPR here in hopes of purchasing soon... I am wanting to learn more about distance shooting and understand the ruger would be a good entry level rifle...someone suggested the thompson LRR so was asking for pros & cons... if I am in the wrong area please excuse...thanks
No worries! Along with the RPR you might want to have a look at the Tikka T3, Bergara, and Howa offerings. Lots to read about each of them in other threads in this very forum. Read along having a rifle budget in mind and don’t forget To also put aside the extra $$$ for a decent scope. If it were me, I’d plan on spending similar $$$ amounts for rifle and scope.
Good luck in finding your perfect rifle and enjoy the journey.
Has anyone here had luck using a Magnetospeed with the RPR Magnums? Had mine out to the range yesterday and could not get any readings due to the size of the brake.
Looking at 3 different barrels: White Oak stainless, Criterion stainless and Proof stainless. Thoughts from anyone who is currently shooting them? Thanks
thanks i definitely have my email subscribed to a few places for the proof stainless when it's back in stock
After 1300-1500 rounds through my gen2 6 Creed, I finally upgraded it.
LRI 26in barrel, Timney trigger, Magpul PRS3 stock and Masterpiece Arms muzzle brake
Now ... to just find one of the Snipers Hide bolt shrouds
LRI 26in barrel, Timney trigger, Magpul PRS3 stock and Masterpiece Arms muzzle brake
Now ... to just find one of the Snipers Hide bolt shrouds
Any thoughts on purchasing the Savage rather than the Ruger and then not having to replace the barrel?
My understanding is that the majority of RPR owners change the barrel when it is worn out.
What would be the advantage of getting a Savage, miracle barrel steel that last forever? Lol
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