• Frank's Lesson's Contest

    We want to see your skills! Post a video between now and November 1st showing what you've learned from Frank's lessons and 3 people will be selected to win a free shirt. Good luck everyone!

    Create a channel Learn more
  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Dog -
Love Kreiger barrels. When the factory on my RPR dies that’s the way I’m going. It’s actually been the most recommended to me between here and the range

Dragon -
Glad your enjoying that SWFA. The SWFA I’m currently using is probably my favorite scope so I had a feeling you’d enjoy it
 
I got hit in the face from debris out of the brake last week from one of these cheap GI Joe operator as fuck rifles. Fucking 6.5 Creed. I told the range master and it turned out to be the second complaint on that rifle and shooter. Asshole stayed in denial the whole time.
 
I got hit in the face from debris out of the brake last week from one of these cheap GI Joe operator as fuck rifles. Fucking 6.5 Creed. I told the range master and it turned out to be the second complaint on that rifle and shooter. Asshole stayed in denial the whole time.

That’s some bullshit. When I lived in FL you had to put a screen up between you and another shooter if you were using a semi auto or a rifle with a brake due to how close the benches were there. Were you shooting prone? I wonder if he has ports on the bottom of the brake
 
Very nice group! Had similar 1/2 MOA results with a Hornady factory ammo this evening. New Gen 3 barrel doesn’t seem to be fouling with copper after the first 10 shots down the tube. Just need a good scope now!!


Thanks, ive never shot a group that small at 500 before. I think it was a fluke, but ill take it. Mine seems to like fed gmm 168 the best for factory ammo. Itll hold .75 pritty easy.
And yes the coppering span seems great, it stayed consistent for around 450-500 rds before i had to clean back down to bare metal. Ive been impressed, the platform seems well designed, but that last 1/4 moa will definitely require a custom barrel. That said, 1/2 moa is fine with me!!!!

Side note, anyone use hsm brass? I was told it was winchester brass but after buying 50 pieces, its case capacity is way smaller.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: magnumruger
^ Yeah that’s some damn fine shooting. Just for the hell of it try a box of Nosler Custom Competition 168 sometime. When I first got this rifle a couple years ago I was shooting factory ammo and shot a .177” with that stuff bipod and bag
 
  • Like
Reactions: LR184
That’s some bullshit. When I lived in FL you had to put a screen up between you and another shooter if you were using a semi auto or a rifle with a brake due to how close the benches were there. Were you shooting prone? I wonder if he has ports on the bottom of the brake
im glad my range is usually very uncrowded. most days i have the entire facility to myself.
 
We were shooting bench style 1.5 moa silhouettes out to 200, 300, 385, and 500 meters. I suspect the board is going to prohibit brakes for this comp after this incident. It's a PRS rifle and he could care less about line safety. It's his own doing. He can't go next door to F-class. No brakes allowed. He needs to find a PRS match.
 
We were shooting bench style 1.5 moa silhouettes out to 200, 300, 385, and 500 meters. I suspect the board is going to prohibit brakes for this comp after this incident. It's a PRS rifle and he could care less about line safety. It's his own doing. He can't go next door to F-class. No brakes allowed. He needs to find a PRS match.

Where I shoot it’s mostly f class shooting (prone). Anyone using brakes has to go to the left side of the line and there must be at least two positions between them and those who aren’t using brakes. At 600 it’s no big deal. At 1000 some boomers show up.
 
Outside of LRI and Krieger barrels what else is there? Who's the best performer for the cost of LRI, Krieger, etc...?
LRI, kreiger, benchmark, criterion, proof research, I think Brux. All make dropins. And I know I’m missing a few. I believe lri, kreiger and benchmark would be the best performers out of the bunch. My opinion. But hawk hill, bartlien, etc. can all make one if asked for. I was gonna have bartlein do one for me, But i decided to go with kreiger
 
  • Like
Reactions: Drewdemon
So you guys know, there is another barrel option out there. Kreiger is now making rpr drop in barrels. They are amazing. But the other option is what I just had done. I have the first gen 2 with a direct mount barrel like a Remington 700. Kreiger tossed the barrel nut and lapped the lugs. They said the less parts that can move the better. Even tho the group shown is from a Seb rest, I think it shoots pretty good with factory ammo


So there is NO barrel nut on your RPR, just a shouldered barrel that tightens against the receiver. Correct?
How is the barrel shroud mounded?
 
So there is NO barrel nut on your RPR, just a shouldered barrel that tightens against the receiver. Correct?
How is the barrel shroud mounded?
That is correct. By shroud, you mean handguard? If you were looking at the barrel from the side, there would be the threads that screw into the receiver, then from there, there is a set of threads that are bigger that are part of the barrel where the barrel nut would normally be. Does that make sense? Honestly, the machine work they did is amazing. The 2 sets of threads had to be timed perfectly or the hand guard would not fit right. I’m very impressed with their work
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
^ Thats pretty damn cool. First time I’ve seen that on an RPR.

White Oak Armament makes a drop in too. Not sure how good they are and they’re back ordered on .308, but they make them.

I’m probably gonna go Kreiger myself and if not them then a stainless Proof Research (can’t swing the CF). A lot of good things said about them too.
 
^ Thats pretty damn cool. First time I’ve seen that on an RPR.

White Oak Armament makes a drop in too. Not sure how good they are and they’re back ordered on .308, but they make them.

I’m probably gonna go Kreiger myself and if not them then a stainless Proof Research (can’t swing the CF). A lot of good things said about them too.
I talked to proof research at shot show, as cool as the CF are, it did not sound like it was quite as accurate as non CF. P.S. that’s why I shared about the direct thread, not many people know that’s an option. Tho, you will have to send your gun out to get that done. I feel it’s worth it tho


I don’t mean keep repeating myself, I believe kreiger is the best barrel out there. They hold the world record in benchrest for the tightest group. And the other top barrel manufacture (don’t want to name). We’re guys who learned from and worked at kreiger...... photo is the world record lol. I am a fan boy
 

Attachments

  • 919019A1-D756-4459-A7EE-28B8A995AA7D.png
    919019A1-D756-4459-A7EE-28B8A995AA7D.png
    2.6 MB · Views: 127
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
For the life of me I can't find any discussion of the Gen 3 RPR? I see the Ruger marketing material. M-Loc and nitrited bolt? Is that the major difference, or was the trigger tweaked too? Any vids of someone finger banging one?
 
I just bought two 650 triggers for my Ruger Precision Rifles, and neither of them will allow the safety selector to slide into the channel on the trigger body...not even just the safety selector alone, not inserted into the lower receiver. I even tried some standard selectors from my standard AR-15 lowers and they would not fit in the channel either. One is a Gen 1 6.5 Creedmoor and the other is Gen 2 5.56.

Has anyone else come across this? I sent a message to Timney, but based on reports of others trying to contact Timney and failing to receive a response, I don't have high hopes. I'll try calling on Monday.

Thanks...Dale.
 
Anyone with a 56mm objective razr hd gen 2, what ring height are you running on your ruger precision?
I have a 56mm bell, not a razor though. I used 1.45”. I have a factory rail. If you have an aftermarket one with a continuous rail you’ll need 1.45” I believe. I have some clearance on mine, probably could’ve went with 1.25 or so but I got a deal on some Seekins rings so I’m happy with my setup.
 
I have a 56mm bell, not a razor though. I used 1.45”. I have a factory rail. If you have an aftermarket one with a continuous rail you’ll need 1.45” I believe. I have some clearance on mine, probably could’ve went with 1.25 or so but I got a deal on some Seekins rings so I’m happy with my setup.
I would recommend at least that size for any size objective. Barrel is inline with the stock like an AR. For comfort id recommend AR heightish rings on the RPR.
 
Just did the barrel in an initial rattle can FDE (looks lighter too in the pics than it really is). Lighter than the duracoat magpul FDE that I’ll be getting soon, but still turned out pretty good...

59C1375B-0725-4437-B3E6-8E15C34D7016.jpeg
323D9B6B-C307-42E3-9BB6-A5728328A4A6.jpeg


One thing I like too is that by going with a thinner handguard and coating the barrel, it gives the barrel a look of a heavier contour
 
Last edited:
I just bought two 650 triggers for my Ruger Precision Rifles, and neither of them will allow the safety selector to slide into the channel on the trigger body...not even just the safety selector alone, not inserted into the lower receiver. I even tried some standard selectors from my standard AR-15 lowers and they would not fit in the channel either. One is a Gen 1 6.5 Creedmoor and the other is Gen 2 5.56.

Has anyone else come across this? I sent a message to Timney, but based on reports of others trying to contact Timney and failing to receive a response, I don't have high hopes. I'll try calling on Monday.

Thanks...Dale.



Well...disregard all after Good Morning...

Talked to one guy at Timney this morning and left a message for another...and received the following e-mail response:

---------------------------------------------------
Hi Dale,
It sounds like the safety selector is installed backwards, we had a very small batch leave our facility in error. My apologies sir! We have a couple options, one is I can send you a return shipping label to get these units back and corrected as you should have not received a trigger that was incorrect.
The second option if you so choose and feel comfortable popping the safety guide rod off of the trigger. The bar that runs along the side connects in the back of the trigger to a black piece. This is the piece that is backwards, once the guide rod is popped off, the little black will come out and it needs to be turned 180* and reinstalled.
Let me know which way you would like to go and we can proceed. I do have a quick turn around on repairs, within 24 hours of me receiving the trigger it goes back out the door to you.

Nate Moser
Technical Support Advisor
Timney Triggers
2020 West Quail Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85027
P: 623.223.1111
F: 623.223.1112
NRA Life Member
-------------------------------------------------------

So I popped off the linkage bar, reversed the little black tab, and reassembled everything and its all good now.

Crisis averted...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Burnbio and Bender
Quick question for you guys that have used the aerosol duracoat. I’m just looking to do my barrel soon.

If I use masking tape to mask it off, can I let the duracoat dry and still be able to remove the tape, or do I have to remove it while it’s wet or at least tacky? I know part of the paint is epoxy, so I don’t want the tape to be forever stuck to the barrel.
 
Last edited:
^ It may be different for an aftermarket barrel, but when my barrel nut came loose on its own, I torqued it back to 70 ft/lbs. A common torque for precision rifles. It’s performed great for me since.