I’ve always hand primed. After I saw a buddy using his press to prime I was glad I had the hand primer lol
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
^ I wasn’t getting the leverage I needed either, so I had been looking at one for a while anyway
Well I shot my first PRS style match today with a local club here in Texas with my RPR. I was shooting the last of my 6.5 Prime ammo and will now start reloading with my 15 boxes of brass. My expectation was to go and get stomped but to learn a thing or two. I unknowingly ended up getting in a squad with some top PRS shooters.
Not only did I learn a ton but I was very pleased with how the RPR performed. Besides a timney upgrade it was pretty much factory and it ran flawlessly. I performed better than expected overall for my first match and the seasoned competitors were a blast to shoot with. Let me use and try out their gear and did lots of teaching. Really lights a fire under me to improve. Can’t wait to take the RPR back out for another one.
Not only did I learn a ton but I was very pleased with how the RPR performed. Besides a timney upgrade it was pretty much factory and it ran flawlessly. I performed better than expected overall for my first match and the seasoned competitors were a blast to shoot with. Let me use and try out their gear and did lots of teaching. Really lights a fire under me to improve. Can’t wait to take the RPR back out for another one.
Hey Guys I just picked up an 6.5 CM RPR with a LRI 26" barrel.
I replaced the trigger with a timney and the safety lever (seekins) I am getting a little wiggle in the safety now.
I made sure the spring was reinstalled. Not sure if this is normal.
Thank you
Joseph
I replaced the trigger with a timney and the safety lever (seekins) I am getting a little wiggle in the safety now.
I made sure the spring was reinstalled. Not sure if this is normal.
Thank you
Joseph
Did you remove/replace the safety? I did not, no problems. Haven’t heard of that issue either.
I did remove and replace the safety. I did notice the Seekins Safety body was different than the stock one.
The body on the seekins is triangle shaped and factory safety is D shaped.
The body on the seekins is triangle shaped and factory safety is D shaped.
Last edited:
I have a standard 90 degree Seekins. Moves about that much but everything works fine. I’ve heard the 60 deg might be a bit better but have never had any experience with it.
i use the ambi seekins safety. it has a 90 and 60 degree position depending on which way the barrel is inserted. if you put the short throw side on the left where the spring is, i dont get any wiggle at all with factory trigger. i will be receiving my timney trigger tomorrow so ill see what ahppens. but i bet you have the same safety i do, if you look on it there are 2 detent positions. the one i have here where the safety selector is the 60 degree side. per seekins, this is the side they recommend using for the RPR.
My experiment with a 24" Proof Research barrel has come to an end on my match rifle. I was primarily focused of the 1.8lb weight saving but the amount of increased recoil especially in the way the barrel elevated(hopped) was the deal killer. I ended up having DMR put a Bartlein barrel on it and I'll pick it up tomorrow. The factory barrel was awesome for me and I expect the Bartlein to do a good job as well.
Last edited:
Update for you. I received my timney trigger today. I could not install it on my rifle. long story short, my trigger is out of spec and .005" wider in the rear and doesnt fit in the receiver slot. Timney being the great company they are is taking care of it and getting a replacement out post haste.
However, i did mess with the safety. the factory safety has very little wiggle room in it, but i feel the same play in the seekins one that you do. i’d imagine as you summized earlier, this is due to the design of the berrel and the fact that it is a 60 and 90 degree throw safety where as the factory is not ambi and is a 60 degree only (ICYWY, its the same safety as the SR762). so when i get my replacement trigger, ill install it and let you know what happens. i do notice a lot of wiggle in the timney trigger saefty mechanism. if you wiggle the blade inside the slot where the safety selector fits, there is quite a bit of play, that could contribute to what you are seeing.
Also, FWIW, seekins did tell me that they have never tested their safety with the timney trigger at all so they make no claims to compatibility.
Last edited:
Hi RPRers,
There are two types of AICS 308 10 round mags. AICS 3902 and AICS 6955, which one is the correct one.?
Thanks!
There are two types of AICS 308 10 round mags. AICS 3902 and AICS 6955, which one is the correct one.?
Thanks!
Mine was tight in the rear as well, tapped it with nylon hammer, shaved a tad of aluminum, but in went forward sits great
I should also say mine has timney in it and has some play but works like it’s supposed to. Havnt had a chance to flip it yet to see if that helps or not.
Another update. My upper receiver is out of spec. The trigger won’t fit. I have to have .005” milled out.
I’m so glad I only paid 959 for this fucking rifle. I have a love hate relationship with it. Bang for buck it’s totally awesome, but the overall fit and finish on everything is complete shit.
I’m so glad I only paid 959 for this fucking rifle. I have a love hate relationship with it. Bang for buck it’s totally awesome, but the overall fit and finish on everything is complete shit.
Wanted to share, I have a brand new take-off 6mm Creedmoor barrel for sale in the Accessories forum. PM if interested.
I just rebarreled my RPR and have been working on load development the past 2 days. During this time I've had an unusual malfunction creep in periodically. I fire a round and when running the bolt to the rear the back side of the front lug on the bolt runs into the top round in the mag on the angled part of the shoulder just below where the shoulder meets the body/side wall of the case. When it hits the blot stops and is stuck till I work everything loose and it put a little nick in the case of the next round.
This has never happened before with either the factory barre or a Proof barrel I had in there for the past 4 months. I think that this could just be a coincidence in that It is happening right after a barrel change but really don't know. I think maybe the fix might be to adjust the mag lips to hold the top round a tad lower but that is just a guess as well. This particular malfunction also happens with 2 different mags exactly the same. They are both Accuracy mags and have functioned perfectly for the past 2 years.
This has never happened before with either the factory barre or a Proof barrel I had in there for the past 4 months. I think that this could just be a coincidence in that It is happening right after a barrel change but really don't know. I think maybe the fix might be to adjust the mag lips to hold the top round a tad lower but that is just a guess as well. This particular malfunction also happens with 2 different mags exactly the same. They are both Accuracy mags and have functioned perfectly for the past 2 years.
Last edited:
^ Interesting. The common denominator seems to be the barrel. However the quick fix could be the mag. Was it an RPR drop in barrel? Have you tried shooting with the factory pmags?
I can't believe that the barrel has anything to do with the bolt/magazine interface. The bolt locks into the upper, the mag snaps into the lower, the barrel doesn't have any contact with either of them.
You might also try loosening/removing the lower receiver on the rifle, re-aligning, and re-tightening it back onto the upper receiver. Who knows, the lower receiver may have just been re-assembled slightly misaligned to the upper receiver when the barrel was changed.
I am not sure of proper torque values for the attachment bolts, but on Ruger's "Disassembly / Reassembly" video on their website the technician just calls "to snug it up!"
Just throwing ideas out there.
I am not sure of proper torque values for the attachment bolts, but on Ruger's "Disassembly / Reassembly" video on their website the technician just calls "to snug it up!"
Just throwing ideas out there.
True. Even if the barrel was microscopically off there would be more of an accuracy problem and not a feeding problem. Then like Pell said, I’d check out the alignment of the lower.
I just pulled the 2 bolts on the lower and removed it. The rear bolt was hellatight, I needed to use a wrench on the bit to break it loose. In the past when I pulled the lower and retorqued at 30 in/lbs. Ruger just says snug, another video I just watched said 50 in/lbs which didn't seem too extreme. I reassembled, snugged each, torqued to 30 and then went back to 50 in/lbs on both. That should have it properly aligned and tightened. I need to load again and get back out to see it the ghost has left the machine.
Thanks All
Thanks All
The 2 bolts that hold the lower on, they said it’s the same for the trigger group as well
Got to the range today. had to re establish zero after tearing rifle down. After confirming my zero I fired off a fast 8 shot group at 100 to confirm it was all set.
Factory Barrel
Hornady 140gr ELD-M
EDIT: had to fix the target. someone else mentioned if i put in the hole size diameter and i didnt change it. i also double checked the reference measurement and that was off as well. Guess i didnt save it when i did it? anyway, changed a bit from .48 to .66. still not bad for the ol RPR and me. Personally, i still think this target is off. it looks more like a 1 MOA group than .6 MOA. i ll have to make sure i know what i am doing with this program. me thinks if i put calipers on it it would be closer to 1 MOA. not as impressive i guess. Well, another edit, looks like it is in the .6 range.
Factory Barrel
Hornady 140gr ELD-M
EDIT: had to fix the target. someone else mentioned if i put in the hole size diameter and i didnt change it. i also double checked the reference measurement and that was off as well. Guess i didnt save it when i did it? anyway, changed a bit from .48 to .66. still not bad for the ol RPR and me. Personally, i still think this target is off. it looks more like a 1 MOA group than .6 MOA. i ll have to make sure i know what i am doing with this program. me thinks if i put calipers on it it would be closer to 1 MOA. not as impressive i guess. Well, another edit, looks like it is in the .6 range.
Attachments
Last edited:
It’s called on target pc I think. So you mark your shots with a tool it has and you put this little marker on the center of the hole. You then have to take a reference measure from the image so it can scale. So this target has 1.44” squares. I used that. It does all the math for you.
https://ontargetshooting.com/
Last edited:
When using calipers it is much easier and more accurate to measure the outside of the holes/powder mark as shown above and subtract the bullet diameter.
On the programs I usually lay a tape measure across the targetbsomewhere so when I take the picture I can use that as the fixed measurement in the program and I can always reference back to it.
On the programs I usually lay a tape measure across the targetbsomewhere so when I take the picture I can use that as the fixed measurement in the program and I can always reference back to it.
Yeah I’ll probably do something similar like put a quarter on the target. Either way though the calipers and the program are in the ballpark of each other so we can calll it .6 ish and be good enough. Point being this a factory barrel with factory ammo and an 8 shot group not a cherry picked 3 shot group with hand loads. My love hate relationship with the RPR lives on but like I’ve said before bang for buck it’s a good rifle.
i see that there is a new version with a mlok handgurad. is that the only upgrade? did ruger do anything else? is this considered a gen 3 with the mlok?
Similar threads
