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Shot flawlessly from 300 yards all the way up the ladder to 1000. No pics of impacts, was in a class with 18 other students. Just happy to finally shoot steel for once
Awesome! Hard to beat a rifle that shoots that good out of the box for the price.
The RPR has proved to be a very predictable rifle. It does well with factory ammo but really shines with handholds. The factory barrel does well for a long while as well. The one thing I found over the past few years was that you will want to keep the barrel somewhat clean. Once it gets overly copper fouled the accuracy goes away fairly quickly.
Going to 1000y and beyond is very doable with the 6.5CM on a regular basis.
Going to 1000y and beyond is very doable with the 6.5CM on a regular basis.
Nice! The delay in sound at 1000 is just so cool. Glad you got her out there!
I’ve always cleaned mine about every 200 rounds. It now has 2700 rounds through it with no noticeable loss in accuracy. Still going strong!
Im seeing some weird shit on my RPR stock. The length of pull adjustment seems to slip, but it is not getting shorter its getting longer.
Both locks are tight WTF?
I may have to take it apart and see what is going on.
Both locks are tight WTF?
I may have to take it apart and see what is going on.
Very first upgrade most RPR guys do is the stock. Mine was funky like that too when I first got it but then threw magpul prs on it
Agreed. I threw the factory stock off before I even used it.
In the beginning I cleaned every 350 rounds. That number slowly declined over time. I always try to clean well but leave a little behind so the fouling process is a little shorter and easier. At around 2k rounds the accuracy dropped to around 3/4moa which was terrible for this rifle. Initially I thought the barrel was giving up a bit but decided to start with a good cleaning to get a base line. I decided this time to go down to bare metal. The lead and copper just kept coming and coming... for 6 hours. I later surmised that I had been leaving a bit too much every time. Anyway I got it clean clean and was back to sub-half Moa. If Ruger sold the factory barrel separately I might have stayed with that as the replacement when the time came to rebarrel. They just work.
^ Nice! I actually have some wipe out on the way. I decided at almost 3,000 rounds I should do the same thing
Quick question guys. To install the Midwest Industries handguard, do you have to remove both the rpr handguard nut AND barrel nut?
Yes. The MI Handguard has its own nut (no homo). You will also have to remove the muzzle brake if equipped
^ I have seen reviews left mentioning this. Once I have my setup complete, I blue loctite everything. Bipod, rail, handguard screws, scope rings, everything. However, I don’t load my bipod anyway. Just my style. So other than that I can’t really speak of it.
Even before the RPR I was no fan of Sampson handguards after dealing with some customer AR builds. Never stayed tight under hard use and flexed a ton. Eventually the locking system would “stretch” and would not be able to get tight. Same BS with the Troy rails. I will say I never saw this with the RPR (mainly becuase people were changing them out for Seekins or not shooting it that often). But I did notice the normal Samson flex on them.
^^ Long and Trob, I pulled the handguard, removed excess oil, and reassembled with blue loctite. It has been straight, and is now, but the allen heads were unevenly torqued. It's about as tight as it's going to get without stripping the threads. Still flexes back and forth with some leverage, returns to center. Not only does the Samson have a flex, but the OD nut and shims seem like a bad choice. I will likely go with the MI in 15" for the 20" barrel. Nut is one piece no shims and the only decision seems to be MI or the Seekins. Thanks guys.
EA
EA
Can a Brother get some Load Data Please....
I have the "Gen3" RPR with the OEM Barrel. I'm already getting .5 MOA from Factory Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo.
I've decided to start load development after 100rds of Slow fired Hornady ammo.
So I have 100 pieces of Hornady Fire Formed Cases, trimmed to 1.910 and fully prepared, I even deburred the flash holes.
16lbs of H4350
500 140 Eld's
And 1000 FGMM 210M Primers
I have the "Gen3" RPR with the OEM Barrel. I'm already getting .5 MOA from Factory Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo.
I've decided to start load development after 100rds of Slow fired Hornady ammo.
So I have 100 pieces of Hornady Fire Formed Cases, trimmed to 1.910 and fully prepared, I even deburred the flash holes.
16lbs of H4350
500 140 Eld's
And 1000 FGMM 210M Primers
Looking at some of these number here should give you a good starting point:
http://www.sniperforums.com/forum/reloading/68257-6-5-cm-reloading-data-only.html
Just started seating primers with a hand tool. Can’t believe I was doing it on my press this whole time!
Just started seating primers with a hand tool. Can’t believe I was doing it on my press this whole time!
Whaaaaat!?......
Handheld primer tool is a must have, it should be like having a Second Dick, you have to "Feel" for the tightness.
Thank you Sir..
I was primarily hoping that somebody could share their RPR specific load data with OEM barrels.
Mine is a .308 and I've found loads from other guns to be as good as the kind of thing you're looking for. Every gun, even those of the same model, are different and the load can be quite a bit different. But, these are good starting points for load development and shouldn't take long to find a good node.
For sure, most reloading manuals are saying start around 39grs- up to 42grs, which in the scheme of things is a pretty narrow window, so it should only take me a day or two to find my node, play around with seating depth, and neck tension. I was just so happy that I found two 8lb jugs of H4350. I haven't measured it yet but I'm pretty sure the bolts on the RPR don't utilize a small firing pin hole so primer piercing, and cratering is a bit of a concern, I may have my bolt head bushed by LRI.
You will find that this rifle and load are very forgiving and easy to load for. You should find your load in the low to mid 41's. My rifle liked .020 off of the lands and had a velocity in the low to mid 2700's. I loaded the same components along with using FGMM for the primers.
**As always start low and work upon your charge weight along with using proper loading manuals.
**As always start low and work upon your charge weight along with using proper loading manuals.
I’m using Lapua Brass with H4350 and 140 ELDs. 43.1 grains gives me single digit SDs. My barrel is slow and that’s right around 2770. Hoping it speeds up after a couple hundred more rounds. But can’t complain much for a factory barrel that shoots factory 140 eld ammo extremely well too. I have once shot Hornady brass I’ll probably do some testing with after my load is finalized in the Lapua brass
The press is all I’ve ever known. I’m in a whole new world now!
Yeah, that does sound like a pretty narrow window. What some other's have done, I would start at 41 grs and do a pressure ladder from there. Then look for a node somewhere near or above that 42grs, as I've heard some competitive shooters say one gets better consistencies when cases are close or at 100% capacity. When I swap out my .308 barrel for a 6.5CM barrel, that's the approach I plan on taking. I'm certainly no "expert", but I thought I'd through that out as some food for thought.
Out of curiosity, I picked up some Hornady brass and brought it home to take some measurements to see how it compared to the various other brass info I've collected and was somewhat surprised to find the thickness of the brass was much like Winchester brass . . . quite thin. Not that this is any big deal, but certainly means there's more volume that you'll find in Lapua brass. So, one is not going get the same results loading Lapua brass with the same load in the Hornady brass.
I had used a hand primer for quite a while and after a while one does get a good feel for getting a somewhat consistent seating depth. But . . . it still wasn't consistent enough for me. So I starting priming on my Forster Co-Ax press, which gives me very consistent seating depth. I feel that has contributed to lower SD in the single digits and lower ES too.
For sure. If you go through that reloading depot 6.5CM thread, you’ll find people starting with Hornady and moving to Lapua and having to bump it down .3ish-.5ish grains to achieve the same velocity from before.
I bought factory ammo so I started with my once fired Hornady brass. That batch got me to 15 firings. A few years ago when everything 6.5 was in short supply I picked up another 500 factory new cases so I don't expect to be looking at any changes for a few more years. Right now I have basically copied the original 140gr Amax load that they used to print on the box. I've just started on a new barrel and have gotten to a point where I'm just adjusting OAL to tighten up the groups a bit. The 6.5CM cartridge is very easy to load for and you should find several accuracy nodes in your search. Then it's just a matter of picking the velocity to meet your needs.
Yeah 15. That's the same response I get from everyone. My load shoots in the 2700's and the brass was fully prepped. I turned the necks after 5 firings once I purchased the tools. Started annealing at the same time.
The rifle was sub-half Moa through 2800 rounds. I changed the barrel in December because I wanted to have it ready for the 2018 match season. In hindsight I wish I would have shot it until it went sour. 2 of us bought our rifles at the same time, consecutive serial numbers. They both shot that well.
I have a 308 and a 243 RPR both gen 1. They both shoot 1/2 moa at 100. The 243 is very accurate , can stack bullets at 100. Will probably have to replace the barrel pretty soon. Both are good to 1000yds. I shoot a 110 SMK in the 243 and Hornady 178 ELD in 308. Useing either Varget or IMR 4064. They will ring the steel consistently at a 1000.
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