Here’s a pic from a google search. If you zoom in, it looks like yours is chipped on each side just under the semi circle on each side
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From what I have seen White Oak has two barrel lines for the RPR.
One is $370 and I did not see them list whose blank they use. The other line uses Krieger blanks and it $520.
When you guys are posting results which barrel are you talking about?
One is $370 and I did not see them list whose blank they use. The other line uses Krieger blanks and it $520.
When you guys are posting results which barrel are you talking about?
I was talking about the $370 ones. I don’t have a doubt the Krieger ones will shoot. The White Oak Armament AR barrels are Wilson Arms air gauge button rifled barrels and guys like them. Just wondered if the RPR barrels get the same love but sounds like their aren’t a ton of them in the wild.
I am by no means an expert, but it looks like as you cycle the bolt, the cocking piece is grinding against each side of the inside of the shroud left and right as if it’s having trouble turning it. I’m not sure what would cause such excessive wear, but I’d only expect it to get worse..
I have a total of 200 rounds through it. There’s no way it should be worn like that already. Looks like I’m calling Ruger today
Well I just got off the phone with Ruger and they are sending out a replacement shroud to me.
I hope it was just a faulty shroud and not something else that’s causing the shroud to break and you end up there again in 200 more rounds. Keep us updated.
New profile here and First post (I think..) I just got my 6mm creedmore RPR yesturday! Good info here! keep it coming!
^ Nice! You won’t be disappointed
Finally got out to 1000 yards this year. I haven’t shot there since the fall of last year. Managed to nail the X ring on my third shot going off an old zero. Was a pretty good day
Finally got out to 1000 yards this year. I haven’t shot there since the fall of last year. Managed to nail the X ring on my third shot going off an old zero. Was a pretty good day
Looks like I'll be making another call to Ruger...on the 9th stage of the club match yesterday, my bolt decided to come apart inside my rifle. It ran flawless through 80 rounds and 8 stages, but on the 9th stage, the bolt literally came apart. The bolt shroud came off and the firing pin somehow twisted inside the bolt enough to let itself come loose. And before anybody says I put it together wrong, I haven't taken the bolt apart from the factory other than to swap the bolt shroud after the first one broke. So if the bolt was put together wrong, I wasn't the one who did it...
Has anyone been able to develop a workable load with the .223 rpr? I just picked one up, and its giving me fits with load development.
I don’t have one myself but from what I’ve read it’s mostly cosmetic but it also helps with the wobble on the factory shroud. Doesn’t do anything for shooting or accuracy.
What are you working with? Or what have you tried thus far? There’s a ton of info on the reloading depot forums
I have had success with 80ELDMs running 2800. I am using Lapua brass and 23.9gr 8208XBR
Running 75 BTHP, I have tried Varget, CFE and 8208. Varget was by far the most consistent, but velocity was lower than I was hoping for. I may revisit this. CFE seemed to be a bit sporadic, and 8208 seemed to be consistent around 23.7ish, but either I noticed i was dropping random shots at distance with it. I'd have 3-4 hits on a 10" square at 400, then it would throw a shot or two low left, then back on target.
Hello from New Orleans. I'm new to precision/LR shooting and this forum. Chose the RPR 6.5 as my starting place. Now comes the fun of buying and setting up everything else, beginning with a good scope. Literally, I just picked up my RPR from the FFL. A couple of quick questions? Despite the fork that should align the barrel shroud, it appears slightly misaligned with the picatinny rail. I'm guessing that this is not anything to worry about, but thought I'd ask? Also, the muzzle brake is obviously not aligned correctly. My understanding is that all I have to do is back the brake's nut off, align the brake, and then lock the nut back. How precisely aligned does the muzzle brake need to be please and any related tips?
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Welcome!! If you loosen up the screws that hold the handguard on and try to tighten them down evenly you might straighten it out. At least mine did, but no big deal if it doesn’t make much a difference. Yea some people say the brakes were hard to take off but just a bit of pressure from an end wrench was enough to loosen the nut on my rifle and then the brake spun right off (or spun easy for alignment in your case). My 6.5CM RPR shot 140 ELD Hornady Match ammo very well from round one for me if you havnt picked up any ammo first.
Thanks Trob for those observations and the recommendation re Hornady ELD. My impression is that 6.5 is small enough that what I've seen described as "muzzle brake pull-off effect" is not an issue. Talking with Ruger a few minutes ago, they indicated that the brake does not need to be timed and any small misalignment will have no effect on accuracy, which was good to hear. If anyone here has a different experience, I'd appreciate reading that.
Welcome! If you haven’t read through some of the older post you probably haven’t realized that your prom
I agree with trob, my brake was tough but not crazy. I used a wrench and a big screw drive through the brake. Turn opposite directions, the nut tightening to the barrel and the brake loosening off the end, and it broke pretty easy. However when I put my new brake on, for a suppressor mount, it is slightly canted, not a big deal at all. I hand load but I second the ELD-M. With handloads I can get consistently sub 1/2 MOA.
I have a kreiger on mine. But it’s not a drop in. I had them direct thread it like a rem700. I will tell you, it’s extremely accurate. I will only buy kreiger barrels from this point on. Below is a 3 shot group at a 100 on a rest
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Has anyone tried the Proof Research non carbon barrels? Found a good price on one and about to switch out the .243
As the styrofoam box liner came apart in transit, I went ahead and pulled the screws, learning that they weren't evenly tightened at the factory. Looking forward to cleaning this beast end-to-end.
Need to buy a case suitable for flying. Going to search the treads for any related comments, but would appreciate a recommendation.
If you have a Sam's club they have a 48" pelican knockoff for $69 works great for mine
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/membe...-w-wheels/prod22240234.ip?xid=plp_product_1_3
may be in store only I guess
may be in store only I guess
Thanks so much! While my regular Sam's didn't have it, one that's only 15 miles away had it in stock. Bought it over lunch. Will use clear Plasti Dip spray to hold the final configuration.
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Curious if people are using Magpul LR 20 magazines? It's SR25/M110 in design, so should work. Saw a YouTube by 8541 Tactical who said they'd run fine in an RPR. Even if they'll run, do they extend so far down that it would be below the grip?
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Lots of folks here have talked about polishing the RPR bolt to get rid of the zipper like feel/sound many Rugers exhibit when running the bolt. Can someone who has successfully accomplished this please post a picture clearly showing what areas, on rifle and/or bolt, were polished to make the bolt run smoother? Thanks!
This is with the LR20. It runs just fine;but is long for sure
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