Ruger Precision Rimfire Mods

[Maxim0]

Hello,

I have read through the ruger long thread and wanted to stat a short to the point thread on mods/upgrades. Not really a mod but more a strong recommendation. First and foremost complete disassembly with proper cleaning/lube/torque. This rifle had differnt torque on every bolt and some nasty antiseize gunk all through it. As for mods the first and only mod I have done is the tin foil bedding which did seem to have an instant improvement in accuracy. What other mods are people doing? I have read about bending the ejector but havent had any ejection issues. As for the trigger is there a how to on which spring to remove to further decrease trigger pull weight? Also can you bed these style rifles like you would a traditional centerfire? Havent heard of anyone bedding one of these and feel like it would have a much better impact then the aluminum tape. For first upgrade I will go with the shaw barrel and then the timney trigger if they get around to releasing a two stage.

 

[Adam B]

Shoot it before you upgrade the barrel. I know of one person that bought the Lilja barrel and it shot no better than his factory barrel.

 

[JaoeyP]

Lots of guys having best accuracy results with 10rd mags instead of 15, 25, et cetera.

 

[straightshooter1]

What other mods are people doing? I have read about bending the ejector but havent had any ejection issues. As for the trigger can you take the spring out all together like in the 10/22 or do you just need to down grade to decrease trigger pull weight further.

I've taken the spring (the one that's for the trigger adjustment screw) completely out, which resulted in a 12-14 oz pull. I did the same thing a long time ago with my .308 RPR with the same results and have been very happy the feel; having fire over 3800 rounds. The light trigger pull on this RPRF give me the same feel as the big gun and has really helped my consistency, reducing my grouping sizes to where I feel they should be.

Also can you bed these style rifles like you would a traditional centerfire? Havent heard of anyone bedding one of these and feel like it would have a much better impact then the aluminum tape.

Though I don't know if "bedding" is really necessary with this chassis as one might with a stock, but in addition to taking care of the mag assembly I did put some tape at the contact areas around the screws to help get a good feed from the mag. I don't know if that alone made as much a difference as the tape around the mag assembly, as I it all at the same time and got some good improvement.

For first upgrade I will go with the shaw barrel and then the timney trigger if they get around to releasing a two stage.

I've installed a Shaw barrel on mine and found a little improvement, but not what I'd call "significant". For sure, the barrel is a lot easier to clean and only takes just a few patches to get it nice and clean. The factory barrel, I suppose because it's just a "Target" barrel, can handle a wider range of ammo in terms of feeding and ejection compared to the Shaw barrel. Also, I found that my Shaw barrel I'm getting substantially higher MV's. So, the ammo that works best in my Shaw barrel isn't what worked best in my factory barrel.

Also, I've been beta testing the Timney trigger in my RPRF lately and I find that it's a definite improvement over my modified factory trigger. It's much smoother. As one might expect from Timney, the trigger is a very nice addition. Whether it's worth the difference is more of a personal preference, IMHO. If this the gun didn't come with it's adjustable trigger and I was having to choose between the two triggers . . . no doubt, I'd choose the Timney. But . . . since the factory trigger is quite a nice trigger, I think it can be a hard decision when trying to justify the cost vs. benefit for replacement. If one is going to use an RPRF in serious competition, then I think it's a nobrainer to go with Timney's trigger.

 

[Lawless]

I do not own a RPR, I do own an American Rimfire that has shot low .100s at 25 yards and some sub .250s at 50 but it isn’t a given and not one of those “do it all day” boasts. It only wears a fixed 4x so I have to be on my game (*edited to add- was wearing a 10x when best groups were shot)

The mags on bolt guns can have way less spring tension than an auto needs. Tune the mag spring with just enough tension to reliably feed. This helps to keep the bolt from marking rounds in the mag when cycling.

Smooth and de-burr the mag feed ramp and lips.

The bottom of my bolt was rough and had a very sharp surface which rode over the face of the next bullet in the magazine and the leading edge of the bolt was sharp enough to scrape lead as well. Slick up the bottom of the bolt. A file and some fine paper are all you need. The leading edge needs a chamfer and the whole bottom needs to be free from sharp edges and slick.

My crown was not well done and my threading was not true to bore. Had the barrel cut to 16” and recrowned/rethreaded. It was originally an 18”.

I lapped the barrel by hand.

Aluminum tape bedded into the factory stock, it’s my squirrel rifle and I like it lightweight. I don’t want to care if I bang it on a rock or walk through some briars. It has pillars already and aluminum Vblocks.

Put a ball point pen spring in place of the factory trigger spring, exactly 1lb pull (on my Wheeler gauge) and very crisp. Trigger safety lever still in place so trigger is bump proof. This is a walking rifle and it has to remain safe.

Good rings and a good base.


Some of this may not cross over to the RPR but some does. My American is a laser beam now and with the best magazine design for 22s ever it is not going to be replaced by anything. I gave $199 at my local gun shop for it and he redid my barrel for $60. The rest I did myself. I know some had problems with Americans, I did at first, but a little work and they shine. I have contemplated shooting it at long distance with a different optic for fun and may do that when the weather warms.

Skinny barrels need love too.
No squirrel is safe.

 

[Maxim0]

I've taken the spring (the one that's for the trigger adjustment screw) completely out, which resulted in a 12-14 oz pull. I did the same thing a long time ago with my .308 RPR with the same results and have been very happy the feel; having fire over 3800 rounds. The light trigger pull on this RPRF give me the same feel as the big gun and has really helped my consistency, reducing my grouping sizes to where I feel they should be.



Though I don't know if "bedding" is really necessary with this chassis as one might with a stock, but in addition to taking care of the mag assembly I did put some tape at the contact areas around the screws to help get a good feed from the mag. I don't know if that alone made as much a difference as the tape around the mag assembly, as I it all at the same time and got some good improvement.



I've installed a Shaw barrel on mine and found a little improvement, but not what I'd call "significant". For sure, the barrel is a lot easier to clean and only takes just a few patches to get it nice and clean. The factory barrel, I suppose because it's just a "Target" barrel, can handle a wider range of ammo in terms of feeding and ejection compared to the Shaw barrel. Also, I found that my Shaw barrel I'm getting substantially higher MV's. So, the ammo that works best in my Shaw barrel isn't what worked best in my factory barrel.

Also, I've been beta testing the Timney trigger in my RPRF lately and I find that it's a definite improvement over my modified factory trigger. It's much smoother. As one might expect from Timney, the trigger is a very nice addition. Whether it's worth the difference is more of a personal preference, IMHO. If this the gun didn't come with it's adjustable trigger and I was having to choose between the two triggers . . . no doubt, I'd choose the Timney. But . . . since the factory trigger is quite a nice trigger, I think it can be a hard decision when trying to justify the cost vs. benefit for replacement. If one is going to use an RPRF in serious competition, then I think it's a nobrainer to go with Timney's trigger.

do you have a picture or link of what spring to remove? Thank you for your valued insight into this rifle. I've flushed it with brake clean and lubed as recommended per the manual and adjusted the screw all the way out but I would guess its still around 2lbs+

 

[brusky]

Here are tips I've picked up about accurizing and improving the RPR. Some I've done and others I've yet to do or won't.

I smoothed my bolt with diamond files.

The rear opening of the action had some drag and I used a small wood down with 220 grit sand paper on it to smooth the machining burrs on the inside of the rear cut. Bolt feels like it should now.

The extractor hook is a stamped pieced the needs to be cleaned up. I put 220 wet dry paper on a glass plate and smoothed the rough side of the stamping, then cleaned the nose and undercut the hook for a better bite on the case with the diamond files. Extracts fine now.

Ejection is weak, haven't worked on that yet. Thinking the ejector bar that rides in the V-block may be rocking back or not firm enough when the case makes contact during the cycle. Ruger will not send a new ejector, that for some reason requires the rifle to be sent to Ruger.

Look at the bolt face. The black metal flexible clip(cartridge positioner spring part#29)opposite of the extractor is the cause of your occasional round not ejecting. Bend it in towards the center of the boltface. It will launch casings after doing that! I had same problem. I can now even run the bolt really slow and it functions well. Before I always had to run the bolt fast to get efficient ejection.

My V-block had casting burrs where it seated against the action which I smoothed with a Dremel tool. Also the trigger tang at the action takedown cause the action to ride high of the V-block slightly. I put piece of .040" aluminum tape on both sides of the block and that level the mating surfaces.

My trigger had some initial creep that is usually predictable. The stock pull was 2.2 lbs. I ran the adjustment screw all the way in (firm) then back it all the way off the spring, then in until I could just feel spring tension on the screw. That produced a consistent 1.9 lb. pull.

Check the scope rail to make sure its on in the proper direction and verify the screws are properly torqued. Then I just simply removed the spring all together.

i filed and sanded most of the imperfections away besides some or the machining tool marks as i didn't want to take too much off just smooth it out.. the firing pin base that rides the channel was rather rough so a small touch up there.. buffed what i could by hand (little ones in bed).. and cleaned her up and oiled.. put in the action and ran the bolt.. much much smoother.. i think it could do with a touch more cleaning/smoothing.. but is already an improvement.

YMMV

 

[straightshooter1]

do you have a picture or link of what spring to remove? Thank you for your valued insight into this rifle. I've flushed it with brake clean and lubed as recommended per the manual and adjusted the screw all the way out but I would guess its still around 2lbs+

Since I can't find detailed pics regarding the trigger, this YouTube video this guy did pretty well covers it"



I know this video is on the the RPR, but the trigger is the same for the RPRF.

 

[craig24680]

I've seen people, like elfster1234, talk about beding the V-block with Aluminum tape because it wobbled.
Can someone explain how they are seeing this? with the action in the stock, both action and V-block out
thanks

 

[Maxim0]

I've seen people, like elfster1234, talk about beding the V-block with Aluminum tape because it wobbled.
Can someone explain how they are seeing this? with the action in the stock, both action and V-block out
thanks

There are pictures floating around of this, if i cant find ill take pictures of mine after work. Very simple mod that improved accuracy significantly in mine.

 

[craig24680]

There are pictures floating around of this, if i cant find ill take pictures of mine after work. Very simple mod that improved accuracy significantly in mine.

I worded my question wrong.
How did you, and others, know when to bed? Did you observe the wobble prior to the beding?

 

[Just-some-guy]

I worded my question wrong.
How did you, and others, know when to bed? Did you observe the wobble prior to the beding?

I bedded mine with aluminum hvac tape pretty much right away and torqued the action screws to 31 in. lbs.; I figured tightening the action in the chassis could not hurt, and only improve accuracy. I also lowered the trigger weight as far as it would go, which is about 2 lbs and ditched the 15 rd. mag. in favor of the 10 rd mags. Mine has been an MOA shooter since day one.

 

[Maxim0]

I bedded mine with aluminum hvac tape pretty much right away and torqued the action screws to 31 in. lbs.; I figured tightening the action in the chassis could not hurt, and only improve accuracy. I also lowered the trigger weight as far as it would go, which is about 2 lbs and ditched the 15 rd. mag. in favor of the 10 rd mags. Mine has been an MOA shooter since day one.

I did The same except torqued to 35. Plan on experimenting with “torque tuning” the next time at the range

 

[craig24680]

Got it. I'll bed mine this weekend and see how she does after.
Thanks,

 

[Maxim0]

kgc54 provided me with this information which was a simple and helpful modification. I haven't disassembled yet, but just changing the cap nut helped.


"I noticed that when I was loading the BX-1 10 round magazine that occasionally the .22LR brass was getting dented when I press the next wound in. I also noticed how tough it was to load all 10 rounds into the magazine. I figured that if the brass was getting deformed then most likely the bullet's bearing surface may be getting scuffed as well. So I disassembled the magazine, cleaned it and reassembled the magazine by hand by following the procedure outlined here.

A note here the first time I did this I didn't mark the starting point of the cap nut in relation to the top of the magazine shell. Use a silver Sharpie to draw a line from the center of the cap nut across to the magazine will makes reassembly so much easier. That is of course if you want to return the magazine to factory specifications.

I can also tell you assembling the magazine by hand is quite challenging to say the least. This tool from www.tandemkross.com makes the assembly process much easier; 10/22 Magazine Assembly Tool.

In the Ruger 10/22 manual it states:

Check the magazine frequently. The rotor must move freely and have adequate tension so that each cartridge is quickly raised to the feeding position. At the time of manufacture, proper rotor tension is set by rotating the magazine cap nut until the rotor stops turning. Then the nut is turned an additional 1 1/4 turns beyond the ‘stop’ position.

The cap nut is a six sided nut so 1 1/4 turns is 7 or about 8 flats on the cap nut from the 'stop' position. I'm using 5 flats from the 'stop' point. I believe that this is sufficient to advance the next cartridge and not damage the round that follows. "

 

[Maxim0]

Also I took some diamond files to the bolt and action this weekend and after about 2 hours of work the bolt now moves as it should of came from the factory. After taking a bore scope to the barrel i am looking into doing some fire lapping and will let you guys know how that turns out

 

[Islander]

Although this is something most can't do on their own, it is something to check. Take a good look at the crown. Mine looks like it was cut with a 60 deg. chamfering tool that was vibrating. It has chatter marks all around the muzzle crown. The barrel is now at my gunsmith to have a proper crown cut. I'll post the results once I get it back and do some more testing.

 

[elfster1234]

I've seen people, like elfster1234, talk about beding the V-block with Aluminum tape because it wobbled.
Can someone explain how they are seeing this? with the action in the stock, both action and V-block out
thanks

 

[Maxim0]

Maybe elfster can explain what he was talking about.

Thank you for adding that to the thread. love the videos! keep them coming

 

[gunner442]

I just bedded the side of my V block with aluminum tape. It was already pretty tight and there was only enough room for the aluminum on one side. Should I just forgo the bedding or will just doing one side be OK?

 

[elfster1234]

gosh, not really going to be able to tell ya any more than what is in my video... my video is up to 4 parts now,,, and will have another 5th part soon with a custom made magazine sled that someone sent me to test out.. should have that video up hopefully soon once temps in northern Wisconsin get ablove neg temps

Maybe elfster can explain what he was talking about.

Thank you for adding that to the thread. love the videos! keep them coming

 

[Booner1334]

Although this is something most can't do on their own, it is something to check. Take a good look at the crown. Mine looks like it was cut with a 60 deg. chamfering tool that was vibrating. It has chatter marks all around the muzzle crown. The barrel is now at my gunsmith to have a proper crown cut. I'll post the results once I get it back and do some more testing.

I have a Lyman bore scope and noticed some chatter marks at the muzzle. I ordered a brass lap ( I call it a Spud) from Brownells and using some 200 grit and followed that with some 600 grit, lightly, and slowly lapped the crown. I noticed improvements in my groups and I would recommend this practise.
I also lapped the inside of the muzzle protector. Prior to doing so, I got my best groups with the protector off the rifle. Now since I've lapped both the muzzle and thread protector, I get my best groups with it on.
I've done most of the mods that have been listed in other posts, with the exception of using the foil tape. I used a tin foil pie pan from one of those mini pies sold at Walmart ($0.50). I imagine that my tin foil pie pan is thicker than the foil tape, and my action is firmly embedded in the stock. If one was to go this route, I recommend the lemon pie-
I run my bolt pretty hard and bent and broke that clip that limits the bolt throw and called Ruger for a replacement. I gave my serial number to the customer service lady and asked her when my rifle was produced. I purchased my rifle in Feb. or Mch. of last year and knew I had one of their early production models. She confirmed that by saying that mine was made in Dec. of 2017, the month they started production. I now have over 5,000 rounds through it, and am pretty happy with how it has improved over time. I'm at the point of wondering if a new barrel will improve the groups. In calm weather, and shooting mid-grade ammo, 1/2 inch groups are pretty common (50yds). Every once in a while, I get 1/4 inch groups.
I think (hope) Ruger's quality control with their new rifles has improved. At the range I shoot at there's a member who has shot F class for years and he recently purchased a RPr. With less than 500 rounds through his rifle, his groups are so much better than mine were when I first started shooting mine. Perhaps he's just a better shot than I am (it could happen) , but I've noticed the same thing with others who have posted their groups on line out of new production rifles.
It does take some tinkering with the rifle to get them to shoot, but I'm satisfied with my $400 rifle

 

[Maxim0]

gosh, not really going to be able to tell ya any more than what is in my video... my video is up to 4 parts now,,, and will have another 5th part soon with a custom made magazine sled that someone sent me to test out.. should have that video up hopefully soon once temps in northern Wisconsin get ablove neg temps

Sorry elfster I was Being sarcastic. Your video is plenty explanatory

 

[Maxim0]

I have a Lyman bore scope and noticed some chatter marks at the muzzle. I ordered a brass lap ( I call it a Spud) from Brownells and using some 200 grit and followed that with some 600 grit, lightly, and slowly lapped the crown. I noticed improvements in my groups and I would recommend this practise.
I also lapped the inside of the muzzle protector. Prior to doing so, I got my best groups with the protector off the rifle. Now since I've lapped both the muzzle and thread protector, I get my best groups with it on.
I've done most of the mods that have been listed in other posts, with the exception of using the foil tape. I used a tin foil pie pan from one of those mini pies sold at Walmart ($0.50). I imagine that my tin foil pie pan is thicker than the foil tape, and my action is firmly embedded in the stock. If one was to go this route, I recommend the lemon pie-
I run my bolt pretty hard and bent and broke that clip that limits the bolt throw and called Ruger for a replacement. I gave my serial number to the customer service lady and asked her when my rifle was produced. I purchased my rifle in Feb. or Mch. of last year and knew I had one of their early production models. She confirmed that by saying that mine was made in Dec. of 2017, the month they started production. I now have over 5,000 rounds through it, and am pretty happy with how it has improved over time. I'm at the point of wondering if a new barrel will improve the groups. In calm weather, and shooting mid-grade ammo, 1/2 inch groups are pretty common (50yds). Every once in a while, I get 1/4 inch groups.
I think (hope) Ruger's quality control with their new rifles has improved. At the range I shoot at there's a member who has shot F class for years and he recently purchased a RPr. With less than 500 rounds through his rifle, his groups are so much better than mine were when I first started shooting mine. Perhaps he's just a better shot than I am (it could happen) , but I've noticed the same thing with others who have posted their groups on line out of new production rifles.
It does take some tinkering with the rifle to get them to shoot, but I'm satisfied with my $400 rifle

I have a Lyman bore scope and noticed some chatter marks at the muzzle. I ordered a brass lap ( I call it a Spud) from Brownells and using some 200 grit and followed that with some 600 grit, lightly, and slowly lapped the crown. I noticed improvements in my groups and I would recommend this practise.
I also lapped the inside of the muzzle protector. Prior to doing so, I got my best groups with the protector off the rifle. Now since I've lapped both the muzzle and thread protector, I get my best groups with it on.
I've done most of the mods that have been listed in other posts, with the exception of using the foil tape. I used a tin foil pie pan from one of those mini pies sold at Walmart ($0.50). I imagine that my tin foil pie pan is thicker than the foil tape, and my action is firmly embedded in the stock. If one was to go this route, I recommend the lemon pie-
I run my bolt pretty hard and bent and broke that clip that limits the bolt throw and called Ruger for a replacement. I gave my serial number to the customer service lady and asked her when my rifle was produced. I purchased my rifle in Feb. or Mch. of last year and knew I had one of their early production models. She confirmed that by saying that mine was made in Dec. of 2017, the month they started production. I now have over 5,000 rounds through it, and am pretty happy with how it has improved over time. I'm at the point of wondering if a new barrel will improve the groups. In calm weather, and shooting mid-grade ammo, 1/2 inch groups are pretty common (50yds). Every once in a while, I get 1/4 inch groups.
I think (hope) Ruger's quality control with their new rifles has improved. At the range I shoot at there's a member who has shot F class for years and he recently purchased a RPr. With less than 500 rounds through his rifle, his groups are so much better than mine were when I first started shooting mine. Perhaps he's just a better shot than I am (it could happen) , but I've noticed the same thing with others who have posted their groups on line out of new production rifles.
It does take some tinkering with the rifle to get them to shoot, but I'm satisfied with my $400 rifle

How do you lap the muzzle protector. I am Assuming the muzzle protector is the same as a thread protector...

 

[Booner1334]

How do you lap the muzzle protector. I am Assuming the muzzle protector is the same as a thread protector...

I said muzzle protector, didn't I? My bad I meant thread protector.
The lap is made of brass and one end is inserted into a cordless drill, the other end is a little bigger in diameter and is rounded. I simply put the rifle in a vise to hold it as verticle as possible, put some lapping compound on the lap, and placed the lap up to the end of the muzzle. The instructions state not to turn the lap faster than 700 rpms, and don't press down on the lap. Let the lapping compound do all the work. I held it there for a few minutes, then cleaned the lapping compound out the rifle and looked at it with the bore scope. It was evident that the system had cleaned up the milling marks on the crown. I then did the same thing with 600 grit to polish it up a bit. On Brownells, there's a PDF file of the instructions.
When I first purchased the lap, I thought "what the hell" if it didn't work. This was back early last summer when word of after market barrels were just coming out, and I was thinking that I would be buying one. But since I did it to the Rprr, I sincerely don't know if an after market barrels will improve my groups much. Perhaps an after market barrels will reduce the errant fliers? IDK
After I smoothed the crown on the Rprr I did the same to my CZ 455 varmint and I'm also pleased with the results. I purchased a larger diameter for 9mm and did all my pistols, but since I shoot them off hand I can't tell if it helped, but since your only smoothing the metal and not removing it, I haven't noticed any negative effects.

And I just remembered one other modification I did to my Rprr that I haven't seen others mention. I shoot with the Butler Creek 25 round mag.The 15 round Ruger mag is too sloppy in the magwell, and I don't like how the Ruger mags deliver the round out of the side of the mags. The Butler Creek is more of a streight feed and it's very tight in the magwell. The Ruger 10 round mags I don't use as they're so tight I have to pry them out of the magwell. But with the BC 25 mag I notice the first shot is always high and to the left. I shoot 5, 5 round groups and the first two groups might be 3/4 of an inch, then the next two groups are normally the tightest, around 1/2 inch or less, if there are no fliers, then the last group begins to open up a bit. Is this due to the mag spring tension, the barrel getting dirty, or the chamber getting hot? I probably shoot too fast, but I have noticed that if shoot, say 15 rounds then chamber a round and wait a bit, when I shoot that round it's normally a flier. I think a round sitting in a hot chamber changes the powder burn rate/ velocity of that round. Does anyone know if they use a temperature stable powder in Rimfire ammo? I got my best groups this fall when the temps were in the 50's. Was that because I shot 5000 rounds through this rifle and worked a lot of bugs out of it, or was it due to cooler temps?

Oh, and I installed a straight pistol grip on it too. I think that helped give me a straight pull.

 

[straightshooter1]

I probably shoot too fast, but I have noticed that if shoot, say 15 rounds then chamber a round and wait a bit, when I shoot that round it's normally a flier. I think a round sitting in a hot chamber changes the powder burn rate/ velocity of that round.

I've noticed such flier's like that for me also . . .but, I never have rounds sitting in the chamber like that. I get such flies when some extended amount of time goes by (like the time it takes to reload some mags). So, I think it very well could be the distribution of the bullet's lube in the barrel. For example: as a warm/hot barrel sits, the lube that has put a coating around the inside of the barrel settles to some degree to the bottom of the barrel until the next shot. So, it seems to me that this uneven concentration of the lube within the barrel would explain why one would get such an experience.

Does anyone know if they use a temperature stable powder in Rimfire ammo? I got my best groups this fall when the temps were in the 50's. Was that because I shot 5000 rounds through this rifle and worked a lot of bugs out of it, or was it due to cooler temps?

I think all powder is subject to variances due to temperature, with some powders being more so than others. Powder's used in Rimfire is no exception. Some producers of Rimfire ammo do produce cartridges that are more temperature tolerant than others . . . like, Laupa's Biathlon cartridges.

A few months ago I did a little test with regards to the effects of temperature on 22LR rounds (testing CCI SV, CenterX and Federal UltraMatch) The results were interesting and I did post the results in another thread around here. I recorded substantial changes in MV's as well as SD's and ES's. And what was most interesting to me was the CCI SV's improved a lot with the lower temperature (45°F vs 95°F), where the other's did not (one getting worse, the Ultra Match and the other not changing much a all, the CenterX . . . as I think I recall correctly).

 

[Maxim0]

That is a common issue to lookout for in center fire. No reason the same science doesn't apply to rimfire.

 

[Maxim0]

I said muzzle protector, didn't I? My bad I meant thread protector.
The lap is made of brass and one end is inserted into a cordless drill, the other end is a little bigger in diameter and is rounded. I simply put the rifle in a vise to hold it as verticle as possible, put some lapping compound on the lap, and placed the lap up to the end of the muzzle. The instructions state not to turn the lap faster than 700 rpms, and don't press down on the lap. Let the lapping compound do all the work. I held it there for a few minutes, then cleaned the lapping compound out the rifle and looked at it with the bore scope. It was evident that the system had cleaned up the milling marks on the crown. I then did the same thing with 600 grit to polish it up a bit. On Brownells, there's a PDF file of the instructions.
When I first purchased the lap, I thought "what the hell" if it didn't work. This was back early last summer when word of after market barrels were just coming out, and I was thinking that I would be buying one. But since I did it to the Rprr, I sincerely don't know if an after market barrels will improve my groups much. Perhaps an after market barrels will reduce the errant fliers? IDK
After I smoothed the crown on the Rprr I did the same to my CZ 455 varmint and I'm also pleased with the results. I purchased a larger diameter for 9mm and did all my pistols, but since I shoot them off hand I can't tell if it helped, but since your only smoothing the metal and not removing it, I haven't noticed any negative effects.

And I just remembered one other modification I did to my Rprr that I haven't seen others mention. I shoot with the Butler Creek 25 round mag.The 15 round Ruger mag is too sloppy in the magwell, and I don't like how the Ruger mags deliver the round out of the side of the mags. The Butler Creek is more of a streight feed and it's very tight in the magwell. The Ruger 10 round mags I don't use as they're so tight I have to pry them out of the magwell. But with the BC 25 mag I notice the first shot is always high and to the left. I shoot 5, 5 round groups and the first two groups might be 3/4 of an inch, then the next two groups are normally the tightest, around 1/2 inch or less, if there are no fliers, then the last group begins to open up a bit. Is this due to the mag spring tension, the barrel getting dirty, or the chamber getting hot? I probably shoot too fast, but I have noticed that if shoot, say 15 rounds then chamber a round and wait a bit, when I shoot that round it's normally a flier. I think a round sitting in a hot chamber changes the powder burn rate/ velocity of that round. Does anyone know if they use a temperature stable powder in Rimfire ammo? I got my best groups this fall when the temps were in the 50's. Was that because I shot 5000 rounds through this rifle and worked a lot of bugs out of it, or was it due to cooler temps?

Oh, and I installed a straight pistol grip on it too. I think that helped give me a straight pull.

what straight pistol grip? I haven't seen one with the "tail" on it. I use the mpa vertical on my big rifle and love the grip.

 

[Booner1334]

The one Anarchy Outdoor sells.

 

[Booner1334]

I've noticed such flier's like that for me also . . .but, I never have rounds sitting in the chamber like that. I get such flies when some extended amount of time goes by (like the time it takes to reload some mags). So, I think it very well could be the distribution of the bullet's lube in the barrel. For example: as a warm/hot barrel sits, the lube that has put a coating around the inside of the barrel settles to some degree to the bottom of the barrel until the next shot. So, it seems to me that this uneven concentration of the lube within the barrel would explain why one would get such an experience.



I think all powder is subject to variances due to temperature, with some powders being more so than others. Powder's used in Rimfire is no exception. Some producers of Rimfire ammo do produce cartridges that are more temperature tolerant than others . . . like, Laupa's Biathlon cartridges.

A few months ago I did a little test with regards to the effects of temperature on 22LR rounds (testing CCI SV, CenterX and Federal UltraMatch) The results were interesting and I did post the results in another thread around here. I recorded substantial changes in MV's as well as SD's and ES's. And what was most interesting to me was the CCI SV's improved a lot with the lower temperature (45°F vs 95°F), where the other's did not (one getting worse, the Ultra Match and the other not changing much a all, the CenterX . . . as I think I recall correctly).

---The melting of lube in a hot chamber seems logical to me. Since I first noticed that the gun shot flyers when a cartridge sat in a hot chamber, I now don't seat the bolt until I'm ready to shoot, ( I use wind flags so it slows down my shooting )

----I remember reading your experiment with ammo temperatures. It as very interesting. I think I should look it up and re-read it. Thanks for doing the research.

We have an artic blast hitting us right now, but later this week the temps are going to be back in the 40's & 50's. I'll be hitting the range.

 

[Gilo727]

I’ve had one for two weeks now and haven’t been happy with the accuracy. After many hours of pulling my hair out I finally figured out that the action isn’t sitting on any bedding. Instead the trigger unit was taking all the load on the safety bar.
This photo is after packing the bottom of the v-block with 3 layers of foil tape and 1 layer on the top. Still loading onto the safety so will see how it shoots tomorrow sitting on bedding.
Shocking manufacturing.

 

[Just-some-guy]

I’ve had one for two weeks now and haven’t been happy with the accuracy. After many hours of pulling my hair out I finally figured out that the action isn’t sitting on any bedding. Instead the trigger unit was taking all the load on the safety bar.
This photo is after packing the bottom of the v-block with 3 layers of foil tape and 1 layer on the top. Still loading onto the safety so will see how it shoots tomorrow sitting on bedding.
Shocking manufacturing.

That's how mine was too, but not quite that bad. I was able to bed the tabs on either side of the stock with JB Weld and now they support the rear of the action like they were SUPPOSED to from the factory. I am really disappointed that Ruger released such a poor execution of a good idea.

 

[Islander]

I’ve had one for two weeks now and haven’t been happy with the accuracy. After many hours of pulling my hair out I finally figured out that the action isn’t sitting on any bedding. Instead the trigger unit was taking all the load on the safety bar.
This photo is after packing the bottom of the v-block with 3 layers of foil tape and 1 layer on the top. Still loading onto the safety so will see how it shoots tomorrow sitting on bedding.
Shocking manufacturing.

Wow, that's a huge amount of gap. Thanks for posting this. I need to check mine that way.

 

[Just-some-guy]

When I bought my RPRR the safety lever worked nice (I checked 3 other rifles and picked what I thought was the best); the safety clicked smooth and operated fine. When I got home I took the action out of the stock and cleaned it, I then reassembled it and torqued the action screws to factory listed spec's (35 in lbs). I immediately noticed that the safety lever was now hardly operable and very hard to turn on and off. Loosen the action screws, safety works again. This pissed me off because I then knew that Ruger had purposely assembled a rifle out of spec. packaged it in a nice box with a manual and sold it that way in an attempt to mask the fact that the chassis design is wrong. As soon as the consumer tightens the action screws to the value listed in their own manual the safety is locked up. Great quality control Ruger...

 

[edubya]

Although this is something most can't do on their own, it is something to check. Take a good look at the crown. Mine looks like it was cut with a 60 deg. chamfering tool that was vibrating. It has chatter marks all around the muzzle crown. The barrel is now at my gunsmith to have a proper crown cut. I'll post the results once I get it back and do some more testing.

Mine looks like a beaver chewed the crown too. You can also see the powder residue around the thread protector is uneven as well. I would think this could contribute to the fliers most of us are seeing but this is my first “precision” .22. Have you gotten the rifle back yet and had a chance to test it out?

 

[Adam B]

I must have gotten lucky. My gun shoots great and doesn’t have any of the issues you guys have. I recently bedded the block and it shoots even better.

 

[Islander]

The gunsmith/shop I trust is about 2 hrs drive from where I live, so it might be a week or so before I go pick it up. I will post the results of testing when I get it back, just might be a while.

 

[Islander]

Here's a pic of the crown and a typical 10rd group. Once I get it back I'll hopefully post up better looking pictures.

 

[Islander]

I’ve had one for two weeks now and haven’t been happy with the accuracy. After many hours of pulling my hair out I finally figured out that the action isn’t sitting on any bedding. Instead the trigger unit was taking all the load on the safety bar.
This photo is after packing the bottom of the v-block with 3 layers of foil tape and 1 layer on the top. Still loading onto the safety so will see how it shoots tomorrow sitting on bedding.
Shocking manufacturing.

After seeing this post from Gilo727 I was wondering if my rifle might have the same issue. While the barrel is at the smiths I still have all the other parts to play with, so I did a little test. I put Dykem on the recessed area of my trigger group and some on the relieved (reduced diameter) on the safety. Put the trigger assembly in the receiver and mounted it back in the chassis with the safety in place. I torqued the screws to the Ruger recommended specks and moved the safety on and off a bunch of times. Disassembled and looked for any witness marks. I'm in luck, no signs of any rubbing. So, I'm hoping the crown will be my biggest issue. After I test the crown issue, I'll most likely do the aluminum tape "bedding" and see if that improves things as well.

 

[Gilo727]

Here's a pic of the crown and a typical 10rd group. Once I get it back I'll hopefully post up better looking pictures.

After seeing this post from Gilo727 I was wondering if my rifle might have the same issue. While the barrel is at the smiths I still have all the other parts to play with, so I did a little test. I put Dykem on the recessed area of my trigger group and some on the relieved (reduced diameter) on the safety. Put the trigger assembly in the receiver and mounted it back in the chassis with the safety in place. I torqued the screws to the Ruger recommended specks and moved the safety on and off a bunch of times. Disassembled and looked for any witness marks. I'm in luck, no signs of any rubbing. So, I'm hoping the crown will be my biggest issue. After I test the crown issue, I'll most likely do the aluminum tape "bedding" and see if that improves things as well.

I think it’s more likely to be coming in contact with the recess that i’ve Marked up in green on the attached photo. The safety has a narrower diameter section where it passes through where you put your witness marker.
I can see the safety bar being loaded as i torque the rear screw if I watch it from the side without the safety indexing switch.

 

[Islander]

I did Dykem the larger diameter on the safety as well, just didn't get it in the groove where your green mark is. Luckily there didn't seem to be any interference and no marks on the safety. In some other posts on the RPR some folks are getting a new chassis from Ruger, your's might be a candidate.
Got the call from my smith that the barrel is re-crowned. I'll go get it next week once the snow and ice leave us.

 

[GNAP]

I bought a Ruger Precision Rimfire, about a month ago, to use in a 50 ft indoor (winter) and 100 ft outdoor (summer) iron sight target league. As Ruger has sold this rifle on the premise of a 100+ yd target rifle, with a scope or enhanced optics, going with iron sights as been a struggle. First I tried the Magpul plastic flip-up AR 15 style sights, this required installing the front sight assembly on the M-Lok hand guard, a solid rear sight and a front sight on a flexible hand guard, not a recipe for accuracy. I switched to a M1 style Picatinny rail mount rear peep sight and after a couple hours of searching , I found a Mossberg tactical shotgun front sight, designed for a 22 mm barrel, which is very close to the Ruger’s barrel dimension. I also added a AR 15 front angle hand grip, just ahead of the mag port, along with a JCB-Solutions muzzle brake. Since the iron sight installation, I’ve run 800-1000 rounds through it, at both 50 ft and 100 ft, most CCI Mini-Mag HPs and Aguila Super Extra HV, with exceptional results. I’m very happy with this purchase

 

[GNAP]

Here are a couple of photos of the rifle, the rear sight and the front sight with the muzzle brake and finally the first perfect 10 for 10 target (a 100 score) shot at the range on Saturday morning, a the max 50 ft distance at the indoor range. It was below freezing at the outdoor stands and too cold for me to shoot, I also wasn’t going to trudge through the snow to hang a target.

 

[straightshooter1]

Well, I think I've gone about as far as I'm going to go with the mods on my RPRR: Shaw match barrel, Timney trigger and vertical grip and bolt nob with a Weaver T-36 mounted. I refer to it as my Mini-Me of by full sized RPR.

 

[z7.jled]

Well, I think I've gone about as far as I'm going to go with the mods on my RPRR: Shaw match barrel, Timney trigger and vertical grip and bolt nob with a Weaver T-36 mounted. I refer to it as my Mini-Me of by full sized RPR.

View attachment 7029029

for the vertical grip, was there any modification needed or bolt on? and who's grip?

 

[straightshooter1]

for the vertical grip, was there any modification needed or bolt on? and who's grip?

The vertical grip is an MPA EVG from Anarchy Outdoors. No modifications necessary, just bolt it on using the factory bolt which is longer than the one shipped with the grip.

I really like this addition to these two rifles as it's definitely improved my trigger pull and can be see as more consistency on paper.

 

[z7.jled]

The vertical grip is an MPA EVG from Anarchy Outdoors. No modifications necessary, just bolt it on using the factory bolt which is longer than the one shipped with the grip.

I really like this addition to these two rifles as it's definitely improved my trigger pull and can be see as more consistency on paper.

awesome thanks, that is my only real complaint with the RPR that I haven't addressed yet, i had to do some tweaking to get it to eject and polished the bolt, not a great thing to need to do, but it was the most affordable way to get my 4 and 7 year old kids a gun that can be adjusted to properly fit,

 

[straightshooter1]

awesome thanks, that is my only real complaint with the RPR that I haven't addressed yet, i had to do some tweaking to get it to eject and polished the bolt, not a great thing to need to do, but it was the most affordable way to get my 4 and 7 year old kids a gun that can be adjusted to properly fit,

I used to have a problem with a lot of FTE's and I tried modifying the Cartridge Positioner Spring (e.g. bending it slight in towards the middle of the bolt) and that seemed to help, but it didn't really solve the problem completely. It did help in keeping the cartridge more firmly held to the bolt. Eventually I got around to taking a closer look at how the Ejector Blade was contacting the spent cartridge to get it to eject and found that it was not making good contact with the spent cartridge as the bolt slid backwards. There's just a small area there for the Ejector Blade to do so and I could see that if I could move that blade closer to the surface of the bolt, it would make better contact. So . . . I removed the Magazine Latch Assembly and took out the Ejector Blade and with some vice grips I bent it ever so slightly until it was almost touching the bolt. FINALLY! This solved my ejection problem. Though when using the short throw, the ejection is weak, but reliable. In the long throw configuration, ejection is plenty strong.

There's probably no need for a picture, as you can look into your own mag well to see how that blade is making contact with a cartridge. But I'll put one here anyway:

 

[z7.jled]

I used to have a problem with a lot of FTE's and I tried modifying the Cartridge Positioner Spring (e.g. bending it slight in towards the middle of the bolt) and that seemed to help, but it didn't really solve the problem completely. It did help in keeping the cartridge more firmly held to the bolt. Eventually I got around to taking a closer look at how the Ejector Blade was contacting the spent cartridge to get it to eject and found that it was not making good contact with the spent cartridge as the bolt slid backwards. There's just a small area there for the Ejector Blade to do so and I could see that if I could move that blade closer to the surface of the bolt, it would make better contact. So . . . I removed the Magazine Latch Assembly and took out the Ejector Blade and with some vice grips I bent it ever so slightly until it was almost touching the bolt. FINALLY! This solved my ejection problem. Though when using the short throw, the ejection is weak, but reliable. In the long throw configuration, ejection is plenty strong.

There's probably no need for a picture, as you can look into your own mag well to see how that blade is making contact with a cartridge. But I'll put one here anyway:

View attachment 7029338

View attachment 7029343

After I bent the positioning spring to keep the brass against the extractor, it hasbeen 100% with empty brass and live ammo including the last round out of the magazine (previously 100% failure rate)

 

[straightshooter1]

After I bent the positioning spring to keep the brass against the extractor, it hasbeen 100% with empty brass and live ammo including the last round out of the magazine (previously 100% failure rate)

Hmmmm??? It must be a combination of the two issue. Working on and bending that positioning spring on mine, I couldn't get 100% until I also worked on the Ejector Blade. I guess your blade was already where it needed to be.