Hmmm??? Must be some kind of difference in how the ejector sits in mine vs. yours??? Either way, we've both had to do something to get it to function.
Mine also will eject whether cycled fast or slow.
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Ruger Precision Rimfire
- Thread starter t8500shx
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Hmmm??? Must be some kind of difference in how the ejector sits in mine vs. yours??? Either way, we've both had to do something to get it to function.
Mine also will eject whether cycled fast or slow.
Over the last 4 years I've collected 1,000 spreadsheet lines of data on a wide range of cartridges and what I can tell you from that data is that when one's budget is limited and one uses really inexpensive ammo one's not going to get tight groups/consistency for one reason or another. Oh, once and a while one might come across a box where it shoots really well, but go back to buy more, expecting to get the same results, one is going to be disappointed in the results. Most likely, one will then get mediocre result at best. This phenomenon is even true for the highest quality .22lr ammo, but the "bad" results for high quality ammo would be pretty good results for the cheap stuff.
One exception on the cheap ammo, which many shooters around here can attest to, is the CCI SV's, which seem to work really well in a wide variety of rifle configurations . . . particularly for something at such a low price point. Federal Auto Match is another that show to do well (most of the time) at the low price points. You might consider shooting a lot of it for practice and breaking in your barrel. Speaking of barrels, I don't know how many rounds you have through your yet, but I know it'll take a few hundred before it really starts to get consistent (hopefully, all there other quirks have been worked out). And for any hunting, the CCI Mini Mags also do a great job at its price point. But like so many here will also attest to, finding the right cartridge you're particular rifle like can be quite a chore as it having the same cartridge work well over time.
The cartridges you've used above are not any that would typically do as well better what what I've suggested . . . . unless your particular barrel really likes them. And it appears to me, it does not. So . . .???
Well . . . that's what I think and it's just one man's opinion. ?
I 100% understand everything in your statement and I agree with you. My problem here is New York State. My local shops DO NOT carry anything that you guys would consider good or high quality ammo in regards to .22lr. What I used was literally 1 of everything off the shelf at Cabela's (which had the biggest selection even compared to the smaller local shops). The only type I did not buy to test was the Remington bulk crap and the browning stuff. My only option to get higher quality ammo would be to buy it and have it shipped to my cousin from Virginia and have him ship it to me or bring it up with him. I cant get ammo shipped directly to me
. So although I would love to try some nicer ammo to compare to, I dont really have that opportunity, so I am stuck to using what is available to me and the CCI AR Tactical did the best job at that. It also shoots phenomenal out of my Remington 597, but that also has a few upgrades to it.
If I was in your situation I would just develop a good reputation with a locally owned small gun shop and have them special order some of the better ammo for you. Most of the shops around here don’t carry premium ammo because it doesn’t sell well but will order whatever I request.
I 100% understand everything in your statement and I agree with you. My problem here is New York State. My local shops DO NOT carry anything that you guys would consider good or high quality ammo in regards to .22lr. What I used was literally 1 of everything off the shelf at Cabela's (which had the biggest selection even compared to the smaller local shops). The only type I did not buy to test was the Remington bulk crap and the browning stuff. My only option to get higher quality ammo would be to buy it and have it shipped to my cousin from Virginia and have him ship it to me or bring it up with him. I cant get ammo shipped directly to me
Yeah, that's quite a bummer.
While I'm not a great fan of Winchester's 22LR products, I have had some good results with their 42gr Subsonic's. So, since that's available at Cabela's, you might give that a test to see how it compares with your rifle(s).
Are you shooting with a magazine in the gun?
If so then I don't see how Dremeling the bolt stop spring clip would help as the spent brass ejects off of the magazine's square edged boss (NOT the gun's ejector) with a magazine in place so the ejection takes place W-A-Y before the bolt & spent case gets anywhere near that clip or back to the gun's ejector.
Now if you are using a sled then working on that clip might help as the spent brass would get back to the factory ejector using a sled.
If you shoot with a magazine then you need to do your ejection tuning & evaluations with the magazine in place as THAT (the magazine) is the ejector with it in place.
Hmmm??? With my RPRR there's no ejection being done by any magazine no matter if it's a BX15 or the rotary's. And I've looked at it under magnification.
. . . so it seem odd to me that the magazine would act as the ejector in any way unless something was out of place???
You might want to take another look as all I have seen eject off of the magazine.
Put an empty brass case in the gun then mark the bolt to receiver just as the round starts to eject. Then do the same with the magazine in place (bet you that with the magazine in the gun that it ejects much farther forward in the bolt travel).
OK, so I did take another look . . . a very close look, and as I did before, I put an empty brass case in the chamber along with some live rounds in the mag. When I pull the bolt back, it's not ejecting off the magazine . . . only off the ejector at the same point of bolt travel as without a magazine in place. When retracting the bolt back with the empty case, a little before the ejector is engaged there is some pressure on the bolt from the cartridge that's in the mag below (mainly on the base of that cartridge) and can see that cartridge move a little, but there's no movement or ejection pressure on the empty case until it engages the extractor.
So . . . you lost that bet.
OK, so I did take another look . . . a very close look, and as I did before, I put an empty brass case in the chamber along with some live rounds in the mag. When I pull the bolt back, it's not ejecting off the magazine . . . only off the ejector at the same point of bolt travel as without a magazine in place. When retracting the bolt back with the empty case, a little before the ejector is engaged there is some pressure on the bolt from the cartridge that's in the mag below (mainly on the base of that cartridge) and can see that cartridge move a little, but there's no movement or ejection pressure on the empty case until it engages the extractor.
So . . . you lost that bet.
Are you sure that your gun has the magazine in the correct location (snapped all the way in) as I have access to 3 RPRR guns & on all 3 with the magazine snapped into place the little square ejector on the magazine lines up with, & sits just in front of, the guns' ejector blade so on these 3 guns there is no way that the case can travel back & hit the gun's ejector as they eject off on the magazine's square ejector tit well before the case gets to the gun's ejector.
All 3 of these guns eject correctly with or without the mag & the mag sits high enough that they don't cause bullet damage during feeding.
It seems like that IF the mag is snapped in low enough to allow the case to travel over the mag's ejector tit & hit the guns ejector blade that it would be too low to allow feeding without bullet damage.
Added: I just checked & my Rugger 10/22's eject off the that magazine square tit.
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Yes, am sure my magazines are snapped all the way in. They fit quite firmly and there's no pushing them up to make them sit higher.
I pulled out my Ruger American, which has pretty much the same bolt design, and tried the same test procedures. The results were as you described, were the mag ejects the case instead of the ejector.
Now I'm wondering if I should fool with the Magazine Latch Assembly . . .??? The way it is now, I'm not having any issues.
I cycled a few of my high end cartridges and inspected the bullets. They came out unscathed. Like you, I would have thought that having the mag in too low like that would create some feeding damage. Since it doesn't appear to do so, I think I'll leave well enough alone.
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Mine did not eject certain ammo as I said previously.
These were all shot thru rotary 10 round mags.
The mod I did fixed the problem.
My aluminum bedding was done after the spring clip mod.
And, as of yesterday's mail, I do have a 47 products PITA sled, although I have it installed I have not yet used it.
These were all shot thru rotary 10 round mags.
The mod I did fixed the problem.
My aluminum bedding was done after the spring clip mod.
And, as of yesterday's mail, I do have a 47 products PITA sled, although I have it installed I have not yet used it.
I had tape on the sides of the Magazine Latch Assembly and on the bottom where it meets the chassis at the screw hole. That tape on the bottom had raised it up some, but apparently not to the point where the magazine will eject the case. Sooooo. . . I put another layer on the bottom to raise it up a little more, figuring a little improvement in feeding wouldn't hurt, and now the mag does engage and ejects the case. The mags fit snug really snug now and come out easier. Also, tested a full load of cartridges to see if the feeding still didn't damage the bullets. So far, so good.
Thanks for your input. Now, the next time I'm out shooting with it, I'll see how if does with a lot of live fire.
Seems to me that the ejector is there to eject fired or not cartridges with or without a magazine as the rifle was designed to use a magazine and not a single loading block. Redundancy perhaps?
I posted the mod I did as it worked for me and figured others might find it useful.
I posted the mod I did as it worked for me and figured others might find it useful.
I finally solved all my RPRR problems!!!
I gave up on it entirely and sold the rifle and now shoot a CZ455 which is accurate, consistent, and functions reliably... I was originally planning on getting a Ruger Prec. Rifle in 6.5 creedmoor but now I have no plans to buy any Rugers at all.
I gave up on it entirely and sold the rifle and now shoot a CZ455 which is accurate, consistent, and functions reliably... I was originally planning on getting a Ruger Prec. Rifle in 6.5 creedmoor but now I have no plans to buy any Rugers at all.
Tried a few more ammo types today... basically what I listed above... CCI SV, FGGM, FGGT, Aguila SP, Aquila Eley Prime...
To be honest, none were horrible. Aquila "Eley Prime" was a ragged hole at 50yards, but CCI SV was pretty close to that as well. Both Gold Medal rounds (the older White box style, not the newer stuff) did great as well. The Aguila Super Prime was the worst of the bunch, but still not terrible by any means. I grabbed a brick of CCI SV at the range shop on the way out though
Got home, tore the rifle back down - no issues, just wanted to do the foil bedding deal. Also torqued the screws to 20 in lbs, which is not very much at all. I am kinda dissapointed in the trigger though, low as I can get it is 2-6. I keep reading about all these 1lb + stock triggers but mine isn't having any of that. Still may need some more break in maybe. I also stopped by the Sporting Goods store again and grabbed 3 more 10rd mags - for $32 I figure might as well have a few more.
Here's the Aquila "Eley Prime" on the left - not sure exactly what it is - I assume Aquila branded Eley or they licensed the name maybe? Anyway it shot great, but I think it's discontinued - now they only list Aquila Prime. I can get more of the older stuff, but it's kinda spendy compared to the CCI.
Did you ever get your trigger worked out? I posted a reply on 4/3 and described how I did mine. I also did it to my American 8348Tried a few more ammo types today... basically what I listed above... CCI SV, FGGM, FGGT, Aguila SP, Aquila Eley Prime...
To be honest, none were horrible. Aquila "Eley Prime" was a ragged hole at 50yards, but CCI SV was pretty close to that as well. Both Gold Medal rounds (the older White box style, not the newer stuff) did great as well. The Aguila Super Prime was the worst of the bunch, but still not terrible by any means. I grabbed a brick of CCI SV at the range shop on the way out though
Got home, tore the rifle back down - no issues, just wanted to do the foil bedding deal. Also torqued the screws to 20 in lbs, which is not very much at all. I am kinda dissapointed in the trigger though, low as I can get it is 2-6. I keep reading about all these 1lb + stock triggers but mine isn't having any of that. Still may need some more break in maybe. I also stopped by the Sporting Goods store again and grabbed 3 more 10rd mags - for $32 I figure might as well have a few more.
Here's the Aquila "Eley Prime" on the left - not sure exactly what it is - I assume Aquila branded Eley or they licensed the name maybe? Anyway it shot great, but I think it's discontinued - now they only list Aquila Prime. I can get more of the older stuff, but it's kinda spendy compared to the CCI.
In short, what I did was pull the tensioner set screw and it's small spring completely and put them in a bag. Then I lapped off the trigger on some 1 micron lapping film with PSA backing from e-bay. Lap it off in the direction of movement. 1 pound 1 once.
The trigger has about 1mm engagement. I only did the trigger sear as I don't feel that doing the other would do much.
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It appears that the gun's ejector is there to eject both fired & unfired cases 'without' a magazine in the gun as with a magazine in place the magazine's built in ejector sits directly in front on the gun's ejector blade so the case ejects off the magazine's ejector tit before it reaches the gun's ejector.
This can be seen by fully inserting a magazine then opening the bolt & looking in through the open ejection port. You can see the magazine square edged ejector tit sitting directly in front of the gun's ejector blade. (at least on the RPRR's that I have looked at).
I looked at my rifle and it has an ejector arm. It is a flat piece of sheet steel coming up through the rear plunger block. The case or cartridge should hit that and eject. The bolt should have the spent case in it's claws for lack of the correct word and should hit the ejector about 1/4 inch before the bolt is in it's full back position. It is very similar to my Annie's and my CZ 457 MTR. It should not be ejecting from the magazine.
Now put the magazine in & take another look. You should see the magazine ejector square sitting DIRECTLY in front of the gun's ejector arm blade & blocking it. (just like the Ruger 10/22 with a magazine in place).
Don't guess, actually put a magazine in the gun & take a look. Or better yet remove the factory ejector blade then put a magazine in the gun, then put a spent brass in the chamber & work the bolt (watch it eject normally without the gun's ejector blade even there as long as a magazine is in the gun)
Apparently I have some modding to do. I pulled the spring clip off the bolt to give mine more travel. Spent cases weren’t ejecting and would sometimes fall in behind the mag. I bought some 10 round mags before I ever shot it and they fit terrible. I sometimes have to manipulate the mag or the bolt won’t even cycle.
When I was having ejection problems I was focusing on that "ejector arm" as it engaged the shell as you describe. I had made a small modification to that ejector so that it made better contact and that solved my ejection problem. But . . . as 800GS has pointed out, Ruger's design has the mag functioning as an ejector with it in place. In my case, the mag wasn't sitting high enough for it to do the job it was designed to do. When I checked the same function in a similar action that's in the Ruger American, I could see clearly how the mag was supposed to be working for ejection. Though I had solved my ejection problem with my little mod to the ejector, obviously, my mag in my RPRR was sitting lower that it was supposed to as both my Ruger American and 10/22 use the inserted mag for ejection. So, apparently it's designed with an ejector blade to only function when no mag is in place. Therefore, I inserted an additional layer of tape as bedding underneath the mag assembly to raise it up and in doing so my mags are now ejecting the cases and cartridges. And while I haven't had any issues with feeding, I feel having raised the assembly up a little improves the feeding some. Also, with the assembly raised, I found the mags to be much more firmly held in place.
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OK.... after a looked at it, I stand corrected. See photo's below. With the magazine in place, the case hits the mag on the green shaded area
at approximately .770 to go, meaning the bolt at full open. If you use a single shot sled, the case hits the "ejector arm" with .370 to go. If you pull the "ejector arm" out completely, and you use your single shot sled, nothing happens. The case or in this case the cartridge stay's on the bolt face as shown. The 8348 American is the same way. none of my other gun have this feature be it good or bad. I would advise against anybody grinding the green portion of the mag away trying to fix a problem. I'm almost positive it will cost you a mag.
As a side bar.... I just got my scope rail from Area 419 for my CZ457MTR and it is really well done. Strangely, it wont go on my Annie's. The CZ has a barrel diameter of .860 and the Annie's have 1/2-28 threads so a guy on e-bay is making me a couple muzzle brakes with an O.D. of .860 so I can use the brake to affix a Harrell Rimfire Tuner to. That will allow me to buy one tuner for three rifles.
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Snuck out between storms, first go with the rifle.
Had to change scopes right off. Don’t know what happened there.
Shot at 60 as there was a mud hole at 50.
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Off a bipod, no rear bag (I was time limited by storms)
Top right was scope, then change and screwin around.
Had to change scopes right off. Don’t know what happened there.
Shot at 60 as there was a mud hole at 50.
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Off a bipod, no rear bag (I was time limited by storms)
Top right was scope, then change and screwin around.
Bipod, no bag again.
60 yds.
Shitty shooting is me, not the rifle.
Bunch of different ammo at least.
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60 yds.
Shitty shooting is me, not the rifle.
Bunch of different ammo at least.
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May I suggest that you use a smaller target to force you to focus more. Say 1/4" dots and work on your follow through, trigger control. I like to use the letters on the targets or shoot at aspirin. This is one of my air guns, a FWB P-70 FT.
the lower two Annie's have 6 oz. triggers, so trigger control is fairly easy. When I miss, I know it's my fault. I placed in the Worlds cup and aspirin at 50 yards are not that tough, but when I shoot paper with a 1 3/4 circle my groups open way up. I don't focus like I should.
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Thanks.
It was a bipod off the truck tailgate. Just fooling around to maybe narrow down ammo choice. Don’t have tons of time right now so it’s been pretty much a hurry up and shoot between storms.
Reason I use those targets is I have about an 18” stack of them but your point is valid.
I’ll get a little more serious and bench it with the whole setup in a few weeks.
It was a bipod off the truck tailgate. Just fooling around to maybe narrow down ammo choice. Don’t have tons of time right now so it’s been pretty much a hurry up and shoot between storms.
Reason I use those targets is I have about an 18” stack of them but your point is valid.
I’ll get a little more serious and bench it with the whole setup in a few weeks.
My point is valid for me. I would put dots on the back side of your targets. Maybe poke a pin thru the center of the target and place your dot on the back side. If I shot paper, I would have a big problem figuring out the best ammo. I'm even going to go back to putting HBN on my bullets. ( Hex Boron Nitride ) I also use a micrometer to measure my projectile and thus far, the gun Im testing likes the Aguila subsonic solid point. They are tight in the bore at .2264"
My gun apparently HATES them (though chrono numbers for ES and SD's doesn't really care what gun one uses). For 70 rounds of them run over my MagnetoSpeed V3 (in 10 round sets) in February with temps in the 60's, I got an SD of 27.8 with an average 10 round SD of 27.2. ES's being more important, for the 70 rounds I had an ES of 156 fps with the average 10 round ES of 89 fps. Those ES's definitely showed up on paper. I was hoping they'd shoot as well as you say, but it's a no go for me.
The gun I am currently testing is the Ruger RpR rimfire. I was not pushing the Aguila. In fact, at .2264 they are .002" over the max design dimension. Every other brand I have checked is .2245 max. The RPRR just seems to like a tighter fit. I am in no way saying that it will perform in your gun. It is the best I have found thus far and the fact that it is tight just gives me a direction to head. As a side bar.... have you ever noticed with your ear muffs in that you can hear some cartridges sound flat. Meaning they have a different crack to them. I also noticed that my new Annie's have a very heavy firing pin strike and the Ruger is much less. Just an observation.
The nice thing about the Ruger is that you could drop it in the mud and hose it off, dry and lube and the is not much to hurt. As soon as you buy an Annie you notice the POS trigger guard and you have so much into it you feel like you have to wear white gloves to shoot it.
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Yes, I understood you're "not pushing the Aguila". Sorry if I came across in that way. It was an attempt by me to offer some balance where like with any rimfire ammo, one can't depend on a good report to carry over to some other's experience.
Those measurement sure do seem large. Makes me wonder about the accuracy of the measuring instrument. But . . . I know by my own measurements, that I got similar numbers for Winchester cartridges and why I don't use them in my match barrel as they get stuck and won't extract.
And as I recall, I got some OK groups with Winchester in the RPRR factory barrel, but more like not being the worst nor the best . . . somewhere in the middle in terms of overall performance among a wide variety of ammo. Maybe it was just an unusually good batch of ammo . . . I duno.
Unfortunately, I'm hard of hearing, so I can't notice such things. Though I'm very aware of differences in how heavy firing pin strike cann be.
Be sure to not take for granted the hearing that you have. It can be lost easy enough.
LOL . . .yeah, you've got a good point there.
You did not come off that way.... I wanted to be clear that it is the best that I have found to date, for a particular rifle.
I feel compelled to look up the design dimensions again for my own peace of mind. The dim. that I got was using a Starrett analog micrometer with the friction thimble. I really just kiss the slug and don't count on the friction thimble because it will compress the lead by .0006" I need to clear up one point..... I'm measuring the slug, not the case.
I just checked my Winchester's and they are .2225 / .2235 I have not shot them yet.
I am also hard of hearing in one ear at certain frequencies. So it is like my right ear turns on then off my times during a conversation. It was from gun fire in the past six months, foolishly using foam ear plugs. Now I have electronic ear muffs. The photo below is my friend Brittany. She helps me get to my medical stuff when she can. As a token of my gratitude, I bought her a Kimber Micro 9 is S.S. for her birthday. I have some muffs coming for her too. I would hate to see her young hearing be compromised because of my gift. she is like 26 I'm like 57. My entire body is compromised
but I can still shoot.
Nobody wants to talk bad about their Annie including me, but the truth is the trigger guard is formed sheet steel. I just bought a CZ 457 MTR and when you pull it out of the box it feels robust. It feels like you got what you paid for. And the trigger guard is very well done as is the trigger. My factory trigger has been adjusted to a crisp 15 oz. I have a YODAVE spring kit on the way and a good mirror lapping job planed for her and some MOS2. ( Moly grease )
I just got the Harrell tuner on April 17 and look forward to see what it will do ? The CZ barrel is .860 without threads and the aluminum brake is .860" so I can move the tuner to my two Annie's and two Ruger's that are threaded. Lets just hope it does something. It is returnable. ( 150.00 )
Straightshooter1..... I like the way you broke down your reply. How can I do that.
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You put multiple quotes in.
Then click after the first one, hit return for a space, and type. When done, do the same under the next one and so on.
Then click after the first one, hit return for a space, and type. When done, do the same under the next one and so on.
I could buy this for the paltry some of 4900.00..... not ! It does come with the 5018 trigger. At just over two oz. on the low end. 60/450 grams
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lol . . . 4900's just pocket change for some people, but NOT for yours truly.
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I just copy and past the quote for each section while deleting the parts within that I'm not addressing.
Been doing it this way since I started participating in AOL forums as far back as 1989.
Newby question. I have been going thru the 22 LR ammo that I have purchased, checking for looseness between the bullet and case. I believe that the accuracy and range of any ammo may be effected if any looseness is present because the gas pressure exerted on the projectile will be decreased due to blow-by. Another consideration may be that if a bullet is too loose then it will be released before optional pressure occurs. I sorted the following ammo into three grades- A) No to little losseness, B) Moderate looseness, up to 1/4 turn with moderate force applied, C) Spinners, 1/4 to complete turns with moderate force. Below is a summary of the ammo that I checked. Numbers are averages for multiple boxes of ammo.
A(%) B(%) C(%)
Winchester Xpert LR, 36 gr, Bulk 500 rd A) 44.4 B) 33.3 C) 22.3
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, 100 rd A) 36 B) 34 C) 30
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, Bulk 550 rd A) 28.5 B) 14.3 C) 57.2
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, Bulk 525 rd A) 2..7 B) 27.7 C) 69.6
Federal, 36 gr, Bulk 550 rd A) 56.4 B) 36.4 C) 7.2
Federal Target, 36 gr, 50 rd box A) 80.5 B) 12.5 C) 6.3
Federal Target HV, 40 gr, 50 rd box A) 96.7 B) 2.5 C) .8
Federal Auto Match, 40 gr, 325 rd box A) 99.9 B) 0 C) .1
CCI Mini Mag, Target-Plunking, 100 rd box A) 91.8 B) 6.8 C) 1.4
CCI Mini Mag, Varmint, 36 gr, 100 rd box A) 95 B) 5 C) 0
CCI Mini Mag, Target, 40 gr, 100 rd box A) 100 B) 0 C) 0
CCI AR Tact, 40 gr, 300 rd box A) 100 B) 0 C) 0
Does anyone else out there inspect their ammo? Comments appreciated.
A(%) B(%) C(%)
Winchester Xpert LR, 36 gr, Bulk 500 rd A) 44.4 B) 33.3 C) 22.3
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, 100 rd A) 36 B) 34 C) 30
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, Bulk 550 rd A) 28.5 B) 14.3 C) 57.2
Remington Golden Bullet, 36gr, Bulk 525 rd A) 2..7 B) 27.7 C) 69.6
Federal, 36 gr, Bulk 550 rd A) 56.4 B) 36.4 C) 7.2
Federal Target, 36 gr, 50 rd box A) 80.5 B) 12.5 C) 6.3
Federal Target HV, 40 gr, 50 rd box A) 96.7 B) 2.5 C) .8
Federal Auto Match, 40 gr, 325 rd box A) 99.9 B) 0 C) .1
CCI Mini Mag, Target-Plunking, 100 rd box A) 91.8 B) 6.8 C) 1.4
CCI Mini Mag, Varmint, 36 gr, 100 rd box A) 95 B) 5 C) 0
CCI Mini Mag, Target, 40 gr, 100 rd box A) 100 B) 0 C) 0
CCI AR Tact, 40 gr, 300 rd box A) 100 B) 0 C) 0
Does anyone else out there inspect their ammo? Comments appreciated.
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About 2 years ago I ran a test along the lines of the effects of bullet looseness in 22LR ammo. I sorted a box of Federal bulk pack and sorted them into piles of Tight, Loose and Very Loose (Very Loose being those that not only would spin, but would also tilt a lot). So, I fired them over a chronograph and measured the grouping sizes. I was expecting to see some differences ( one being kinda due to any blow-by as you describe). As I recall, I think I fired at least 100 rounds in 10 round sets (as I usually do for chronoing my LR ammo) and found it interesting, and to my surprise, that there was no significant difference between the three piles. That is, no significant differences in grouping nor in the chrono data. With that, I concluded that the looseness alone that we see in LR ammo really makes no discernible difference . . . other than that looseness affects feeding and/or whether or not the bullet is damaged during the feeding process. In my testing, the latter was not an issue.
I think too that since one finds this kind of looseness in the lower grade bulk packs, it's probably hard to really distinguish the difference due to looseness and other quality control issues.
For giggles, i picked up one of these rifles.
The very first thing I’ve noticed is that the bolt is extremely tight. So much so that I though it was broken. I had to polish it to the point that I clearly took off a few hundreds.
Wow.
There were deep striations in the bolt handle and the receiver bolt handle face. It was ugly.
The one other biggie was the fully extended stock is pretty loose... and that’ll be a problem.
Wonder if anyone makes a cool after market stock to the RPRR?
I did order a Lilja drop in barrel, so that’ll be fun!
The very first thing I’ve noticed is that the bolt is extremely tight. So much so that I though it was broken. I had to polish it to the point that I clearly took off a few hundreds.
Wow.
There were deep striations in the bolt handle and the receiver bolt handle face. It was ugly.
The one other biggie was the fully extended stock is pretty loose... and that’ll be a problem.
Wonder if anyone makes a cool after market stock to the RPRR?
I did order a Lilja drop in barrel, so that’ll be fun!
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Hello Dewey,
It looks like the Eley is your best bet. Have you ever tried to shoot something smaller? Like the NRA logo at the top of the target.
I bet your groups would get smaller. Aiming smaller always gets me to mentally focus harder. Just an idea for you.
It looks like the Eley is your best bet. Have you ever tried to shoot something smaller? Like the NRA logo at the top of the target.
I bet your groups would get smaller. Aiming smaller always gets me to mentally focus harder. Just an idea for you.
I have been playing with my CZ 457. The CZ has the biggest barrel diameter. I made certain that all of these muzzle brakes had the same diameter so that I could move the tuner from gun to gun. A minor change of say .125" changes the POI. I need to get back playing with my RPRR and I will try the ELey..... So thank you for helping me. Thus far mine liked a tight fitting Aguila at .2264" The last photo is of my RPRR trigger. I lap off all of my triggers this way. It is at 1lb. 1.6 oz.
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I picked up mine for the same reason. It sounds like Ruger has a QC issue. Mine was pretty nice out of the box. None of my turned parts were over AA8. The only work that I have done thus far is 20 minutes lapping the trigger and removing a spring. That gave me a
1 lb. & 1.6 oz. trigger. I have kept the center safety and the standard engagement for now. OH... and I use MOS2 grease. ( Moly )
You could fix any stock movement with some nylon tip set screws from, say McMaster Carr. That would narrow up the stock guide and still allow you to move it. I just checked on a Boyds stock for my Annie and it was about 250.00 with gloss and agj. comb. I likely will not get it. I may sell an Annie and buy a nicer one with a 5018 trigger and all the goodies like the one shown in the last stock photo.
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The more I shoot my Ruger, the more I wish it was a metal chassis (and slightly heavier). I think a the accuracy/consistentcy would improve a lot by having a metal chassis. The flex on the rear end is pretty noticable with any amount of pressure into bipod (basically anything over free recoil).
But it still shoots pretty well other than the CB. Got to shoot it alongside a Vudoo and it held in there but jeez. The Vudoos are scary tight at closer ranges. For reference, the dots are .75"
Not sure it's worth 2000+ more but still unbelievable with good ammo. Still a bit jealous though...
But it still shoots pretty well other than the CB. Got to shoot it alongside a Vudoo and it held in there but jeez. The Vudoos are scary tight at closer ranges. For reference, the dots are .75"
Not sure it's worth 2000+ more but still unbelievable with good ammo. Still a bit jealous though...
RPRR with Lilja Barrel, S&B Short, and an old YHM wire EDM / K baffle can.... -smile- The anti-squirrel rifle...
Now... let's go see if all of those mods you guys mentioned make a huge difference...
Now... let's go see if all of those mods you guys mentioned make a huge difference...
