Ruger Precision Rimfire

[straightshooter1]

I am kinda dissapointed in the trigger though, low as I can get it is 2-6. I keep reading about all these 1lb + stock triggers but mine isn't having any of that. Still may need some more break in maybe.

Did you do anything other than adjusting the trigger tension screw?

If that's all you've done, then yes . . . you're not going to get it down to around 1# and I think where you're at is pretty much the limit unless you do some other mods. Though, as you say, more break in will likely lighten it up a little . . . but not much unless you really polish the seer and/or put some good grease on it too.

To get that light trigger pull down to 1# or so, there are 3 things you can do:

1. Trim a piece of the exiting spring off.

2. Replace the spring with a lighter spring (e.g. a spring from a ballpoint pen)

3. Remove the spring all together, leaving just the adjustment screw in place without the spring (should get something just under 1#, like 12-14oz).

 

[Sieg]

I found a spring with a few thousandths smaller wire diameter and similar slightly smaller OD to the OEM spring and trimmed to length and polished the ends. Then also polished the trigger blade, safety blade, removed the sear and wet honed the trigger and sear contact surfaces with a ceramic stone and have crisp break at 1.5-1.8lbs. It also appears stock enough that if the unimaginable happened it probably couldn't be used against me. The ballpoint pen or no spring is more liability than I'm willing to assume.

 

[78Staff]

Did you do anything other than adjusting the trigger tension screw?

If that's all you've done, then yes . . . you're not going to get it down to around 1# and I think where you're at is pretty much the limit unless you do some other mods. Though, as you say, more break in will likely lighten it up a little . . . but not much unless you really polish the seer and/or put some good grease on it too.

To get that light trigger pull down to 1# or so, there are 3 things you can do:

1. Trim a piece of the exiting spring off.

2. Replace the spring with a lighter spring (e.g. a spring from a ballpoint pen)

3. Remove the spring all together, leaving just the adjustment screw in place without the spring (should get something just under 1#, like 12-14oz).

Thanks, I'll start exploring a few of the options.

 

[CMH]

I found a spring with a few thousandths smaller wire diameter and similar slightly smaller OD to the OEM spring and trimmed to length and polished the ends. Then also polished the trigger blade, safety blade, removed the sear and wet honed the trigger and sear contact surfaces with a ceramic stone and have crisp break at 1.5-1.8lbs. It also appears stock enough that if the unimaginable happened it probably couldn't be used against me. The ballpoint pen or no spring is more liability than I'm willing to assume.

Where’d you find the spring at?

 

[Sieg]

Where’d you find the spring at?

My spring bin….. you should be able to find them at McMasters Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/Springs
The RPR takedown screws and e-clips are McMaster-Carr part numbers.

 

[straightshooter1]

The ballpoint pen or no spring is more liability than I'm willing to assume.

I think that's reasonable to feel that way. I always have concerns along the line for making such modifications. When I first got my . 308 RPR I initially tested it to see if there would a safety hazard bumping it or sever vibration where the seer would let loose when the adjustment spring wasn't in place. I found that as long as the safety blade remains installed, it all functions well. And now after 4700 rounds fired over the last couple years, not a single issue.

Then when when I got my RPRR, I set it up the same way since the trigger was virtually identical. And the result has been identical in the light pull and reliability . . . and safety. Though I will say that with such a light pull, I wouldn't take it out hunting as I wouldn't for any rifle with such a light pull. That's a liability exposure that I'M not willing to take on.

 

[Sieg]

That's a liability exposure that I'M not willing to take on.

And a young struggling attorney with a huge college debt load would love to take on.

 

[78Staff]

I pulled the spring - basically dropped from 2.6 to 1.7, which is low enough for me. Did a few safety checks all seems good, will do some more testing at the range.

I initally was going to go the ball point pen spring route, but couldn't get the damn thing installed. I don't even think I could get the stock spring back in if I had to lol. Either there is some trick to it, or you have to tear down the trigger block completely to re-insert a spring?

 

[Sieg]

I pulled the spring - basically dropped from 2.6 to 1.7, which is low enough for me. Did a few safety checks all seems good, will do some more testing at the range.

I initally was going to go the ball point pen spring route, but couldn't get the damn thing installed. I don't even think I could get the stock spring back in if I had to lol. Either there is some trick to it, or you have to tear down the trigger block completely to re-insert a spring?

Pull the sear and drop it in from the top.

Make sure the large e-clip that holds the safety pivot is positioned with the opening forward so it doesn't bind against the action body when you reinstall the trigger group.

 

[straightshooter1]

I pulled the spring - basically dropped from 2.6 to 1.7, which is low enough for me. Did a few safety checks all seems good, will do some more testing at the range.

Just to be sure, you might want to slam test it. . . ???

I initally was going to go the ball point pen spring route, but couldn't get the damn thing installed. I don't even think I could get the stock spring back in if I had to lol. Either there is some trick to it, or you have to tear down the trigger block completely to re-insert a spring?

LOL . . . yeah, it's indeed a little tricky getting the spring back in. But, as I recall, once you know "the trick" it's not really all that hard.

 

[800GS]

I pulled the spring - basically dropped from 2.6 to 1.7, which is low enough for me. Did a few safety checks all seems good, will do some more testing at the range.

I initally was going to go the ball point pen spring route, but couldn't get the damn thing installed. I don't even think I could get the stock spring back in if I had to lol. Either there is some trick to it, or you have to tear down the trigger block completely to re-insert a spring?

Easy to re-install the spring, or install a new spring.

Just remove the adjustment set screw, then put the spring into the hole from within the trigger cavity (it won't go in through the adjustment screw hole), THEN open up a paper clip (or similar thickness wire), now bend a very small hook on one end of the paper clip wire (small enough to go through the adjustment screw hole into the center of the spring).

Next, insert that small hook on the paper clip wire into the spring 'through' the adjustment screw hole (as far in as possible), then hook one of the spring coils, now pull on the spring (that compress it).

That will compress the spring enough to allow the trigger assembly to slide in if the trigger safety is held depressed.

Much easier to do than reading this.

 

[78Staff]

Easy to re-install the spring, or install a new spring.

genius... thanks!

 

[78Staff]

ok re-installed a spring, pulling now at 1 -12 pretty consistently. Going to leave it there for some testing.

Was a consensus ever arrived at for torquing the action screws? I've read 20 and 35. 20 seems really light, but 35 seems a bit much, I get the "sticky" screw release when removing screws that were torqued to 35. But the manual does say 35 so I guess I will start there unless there is a reason not to?

Also replaced that polymer mlok pic rail with a magpul aluminum one... I just hate poly rails... alwasy seems like there is extra play with those .

 

[straightshooter1]

ok re-installed a spring, pulling now at 1 -12 pretty consistently. Going to leave it there for some testing.

"a spring" ??? Something different from the factory spring?

Is that 1 lb to 12 oz.?

Was a consensus ever arrived at for torquing the action screws? I've read 20 and 35. 20 seems really light, but 35 seems a bit much, I get the "sticky" screw release when removing screws that were torqued to 35. But the manual does say 35 so I guess I will start there unless there is a reason not to?

I've got mine torqued to 35 an it seems to work fine for me.

Also replaced that polymer mlok pic rail with a magpul aluminum one... I just hate poly rails... alwasy seems like there is extra play with those .

 

[78Staff]

"a spring" ??? Something different from the factory spring?

Is that 1 lb to 12 oz.?

I've got mine torqued to 35 an it seems to work fine for me.

Ah sorry, the ballpoint pen spring I mentioned earlier.

Pull wieght is currently 1lb 12 oz, actually it varies from 1-10 to 1-12 really. Also added some quality oil and grease at the suggested points on the trigger block

 

[straightshooter1]

Ah sorry, the ballpoint pen spring I mentioned earlier.

Pull wieght is currently 1lb 12 oz, actually it varies from 1-10 to 1-12 really. Also added some quality oil and grease at the suggested points on the trigger block

That weight is around what I had when I tried a ballpoint pen spring.

I wanted to get under 1 lb, so that's why I simply have no spring in place.

 

[Booner1334]

ok re-installed a spring, pulling now at 1 -12 pretty consistently. Going to leave it there for some testing.

Was a consensus ever arrived at for torquing the action screws? I've read 20 and 35. 20 seems really light, but 35 seems a bit much, I get the "sticky" screw release when removing screws that were torqued to 35. But the manual does say 35 so I guess I will start there unless there is a reason not to?

Also replaced that polymer mlok pic rail with a magpul aluminum one... I just hate poly rails... alwasy seems like there is extra play with those .

When Ruger first issued the rifle, the owners manual stated 35 pounds on the action screws, but they also included a flyer stating not to tighten over 25. But they must have done some modifications as their later gun releases no longer included the 25 pound flyer notice. So, unless you have one of the early production rifles, it OK to tighten the action screws up to 35 pounds.

 

[Dewey7271]

Just picked one up. Should be up by the weekend.
I have Fed Premier Hunter Match, Fed HV Match, Eley Target, couple of different Norma’s, CCI Standard, Rem Golden Bullet, Win., Browning BPR, Lapua, Federal Auto Match in the bulk box and the normal bulk stuff. I’d think something in there should shoot? Any I’m missing?
Harris bipod.
Probably stick an Ares BTR on it that doesn’t currently have a home.

 

[CMH]

Just picked one up. Should be up by the weekend.
I have Fed Premier Hunter Match, Fed HV Match, Eley Target, couple of different Norma’s, CCI Standard, Rem Golden Bullet, Win., Browning BPR, Lapua, Federal Auto Match in the bulk box and the normal bulk stuff. I’d think something in there should shoot? Any I’m missing?
Harris bipod.
Probably stick an Ares BTR on it that doesn’t currently have a home.

The CCI Standard and Wolf have been the best through mine so far. Mine takes a while longer than some of my target rifles to transition
between ammo types - not sure if that is a one off thing or a characteristic of the breed....

 

[straightshooter1]

"Real" precision rifles that are in the $2K - $4K range is for too expensive for the "poor man." It seems to me that Ruger has targeted the lower end market to give them just a taste of what a "real" precision rifle is like. And in doing so, that little taste seems to have triggered a lot more interest in precision shooting revitalizing gun sales. The RPRR is still a new product on the market and I suspect that over time Ruger will work out their quality control and make improvements. But, it's always going to be a low end "Precision Rifle" for the poor man . . . so maybe instead of referring to it as an RPRR it should be a RPMPR (Ruger's Poor Man Precision Rifle)?

 

[78Staff]

Finally remembered to take some pics at the range. Here's a few groups - Federal Gold Medal Target/Match are still doing well, but it's the older White Box. Haven't tried newer FGM. CCI SV does well enough for me to stock up on it some. Aquilla is not great. To be fair, I'm far from an expert marksman, so the indian might have affected these some as well.

Florida, 70*, occasional gusts of 5-10mph but I tried to shoot around them. 50 yards, 1" pasters

Federal GM Target and Match - I removed the 5 shot pic as I think I mis-labeled it and can't recall which group is which .

Federal AutoMatch and CCI SV - Automatch was initial group shot today, after that I adjusted the windage a bit

Aquila Super Prime...

I also had some Eley Target, but for some reason don't have a pic. It's wasn't great, worse than FGM and CCI SV, better than Aquila. Nothing to write home about.

Guy a few spots down from me had a CZ455 and a Anschutz, not sure of the model. Both looked very sweet thought. He was very curious about the RPRimfire...

 

[AirGunShawn]

I'm brand new to this forum and .22s. I have shot some pellet rifles in the past...1995-ish. I just got a RPRR on a whim and thought the trigger wash much to heavy for me. Over 4 Lbs. It felt like a mm. of sear engagement. So I did what I always do, got into the guts and pulled out the offending parts. That being the set screw and spring completely. I then lapped off the lower trigger sear only with 3 micron lapping film. So that makes it like 8000 grit wet / dry. I normally use this on my wood working tool irons. ( blades ) I got it to a mirror polish on the critical edge. If you lap the sear slowly, you can keep it square and level with relative ease. I then used some MOS2 Moly grease and reassembled. I think the entire process was under 30 minutes and I have a very crisp, light and pleasing trigger. Oh...she is at 1#1oz. A couple of weeks later I bought a Ruger American #8346 and did the same with that rifle and got 1#1.6 oz. As I get a lot of enjoyment out of figuring out the magic and then doing it, the RPRR is a good little toy for me. I will be back into both of them soon. I'm not in love with shooting paper, we used to super glue aspirin to wires out at 50 yards at bust them. Them are more dynamic and powder like miniature skeet.

 

[John Wesley Hardin]

Head to head with a CZ.Not seeing on boards or head to head.Must walk in different circles.
Neither holds a candle to my Annie’s but like them all.

 

[AirGunShawn]

I just wrote my first post on this forum yesterday, It was about two brand new Rugers, a ( RPRR and an American with the 18" bull barrel, both about 400.00 ) that I did my initial trigger mods to. I also just bought a CZ 457 MTR for about 700.00 Today I picked up two Annie's, an 18" Beavertail and an 18" Thumbhole. Both came with 5098 triggers factory set to 180 grams or 6.4 oz. They cost like 1150.00 and 1625.00 They will all be mated up with Athlon Helos BTR 8 x 34 IR scope. I would suggest that you hold all of these before you buy to see how they feel to you.... I didn't, I only held the two cheap Rugers but I have owned lots of nice pricey toys and you can usually pay that extra cash for a reason even if you don't see it at first or even ever. If you are looking at the CZ MTR don't be surprised when you pick it up and you feel it's weight. It has a straight bull barrel and a well shaped stock that is not meant to be carried into the field. That is not bad at all. I think you would be really happy with it. It has lots of quality that you see instantly. If you compared the CZ trigger guard to the Annie's, you would be disappointed in the Annie. The CZ is much more refined. When you pull your new Annie's from the boxes, you would notice how well balanced they are. There is less wood and the barrel is tapered. Let me mention now..... MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOU GET THE 5098 TRIGGER on any Annie that you get. The 5098 is adjustable from 175/450 grams Some adjust from 1000/2000 grams. I will be putting in an extended magazine release on the CZ MTR tomorrow and take a look at it's trigger too. Here is another toy I picked up on GB two weeks ago and bought a .22 lr liner for it. I will try and keep you apprised of my head to head opinion of all the guns and the mods as I get them done. My goal is pure accuracy and refinement.

 

[AirGunShawn]

Timney say's that they will have the RPRR trigger out in April. I would likely never buy one as the stock triggers are already at just over a pound and my goal is to refine the existing guns and not replace every part. Anything that I add like a muzzle brake is just for visual effect. I just wanted to let you all know.

 

[Frankr]

Timney say's that they will have the RPRR trigger out in April. I would likely never buy one as the stock triggers are already at just over a pound and my goal is to refine the existing guns and not replace every part. Anything that I add like a muzzle brake is just for visual effect. I just wanted to let you all know.

Does the trigger help with the safety?

My boys safety is a bugger to move. Wondering if the safety on the Timney is also an improvement along with the trigger

 

[Frankr]

Took it to the range to get the hunting scope sighted in (3-12 vortex diamondback hp) for sage-rat hunting. Soon hopefully.

This gun has a 16.25 whistle pig aluminum shrouded barrel and even with a scope that isn’t ideal for target shooting it still shot some Eley target like this

As I remember this is 8 shots at 50 yards and is typical of this fun so far.


Side note is this barrel shoots even Winchester wildcat ammo pretty decent. It doesn’t seem that picky of a barrel. It might not be a Lilja but it does shoot decent for me and my interests.

 

[AirGunShawn]

Does the trigger help with the safety?

My boys safety is a bugger to move. Wondering if the safety on the Timney is also an improvement along with the trigger

My RPRR safety was fine when it came out of the box. It's not now. I would pull your action and thumb button from the stock. I would then slide the thumb button into your trigger to actuate the safety in the trigger module You will probably find that your safety will move fine with the stock and action divorced. I will work on mine today, April 6th and let you know what my problem/fix appear to be. Then there is a relationship between the stock and some other parts that may have changed like your hand guard moving aft a few thousandths. Would I like a new Timney... heck yes! I would like to get rid of the center safety and have a straight blade but it is not worth 215.00$ to me. As a side bar.... from what I saw on a you-tube, an Aluminum Tape foil bedding job would be worth doing. You can't turn a sow's ear into a silk purse, but you can eek out every last inch of performance out of something. That is what I enjoy doing.

 

[Frankr]

My RPRR safety was fine when it came out of the box. It's not now. I would pull your action and thumb button from the stock. I would then slide the thumb button into your trigger to actuate the safety in the trigger module You will probably find that your safety will move fine with the stock and action divorced. I will work on mine today, April 6th and let you know what my problem/fix appear to be. Then there is a relationship between the stock and some other parts that may have changed like your hand guard moving aft a few thousandths. Would I like a new Timney... heck yes! I would like to get rid of the center safety and have a straight blade but it is not worth 215.00$ to me. As a side bar.... from what I saw on a you-tube, an Aluminum Tape foil bedding job would be worth doing. You can't turn a sow's ear into a silk purse, but you can eek out every last inch of performance out of something. That is what I enjoy doing.

If I get a chance today I will look at doing that. I think you are right. I don't remember the safety being hard to move until I pulled the action.

I wish I was gutsy enough to stone and clean up the trigger. I keep hoping Brimstone will offer a trigger job for the trigger group like they do for the 10-22 and I would send it in to them.

Right now the trigger feels like a heavy 2-stage trigger - I usually can take up the "slack" which is the trigger blade safety and then about 1-2 pounds till the trigger hits a "wall", then another ~3 pounds before the trigger breaks. If Brimstone or CPC could cut the weight down to ~ 2 pounds and clean up the creep, I would be happy.


I don't know if I will try the foil bedding. My boys gun seems fine without it so far.

The mag well still ticks me off. I put the kidd plunger and extra heavy spring in and it helps only so far for the 15-25 round mags. Still my old and worn 10 round mags work without a hitch and they don't get bumped around. Haven't had any feeding issues with the 10 round mags other than the new ones that are wound too tight. Just need to take them down and unwind them a little bit.

Accuracy wise, with the new aftermarket barrel, this gun is plenty accurate enough for what my boy will be using it for. Dropping over a pound off the barrel was big for him.


I am really debating on another RPRr in 17hm2. If the magwell worked as good as my 10-22 and all they would have had to do was cast a metal magwell like the 10-22. Then I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another gun.


I know lots of people have been disappointed in the accuracy because it's called the Ruger Precision Rimfire but for me, I look at it as super handy squirrel bolt action rifle that needs a few tweaks to get it up to snuff.

 

[Frankr]

Set up now for hunting. Put the SiCo adapter on to help with the threads being too long.

The scope barely clears the hand guard

 

[AirGunShawn]

If I get a chance today I will look at doing that. I think you are right. I don't remember the safety being hard to move until I pulled the action.

I wish I was gutsy enough to stone and clean up the trigger. I keep hoping Brimstone will offer a trigger job for the trigger group like they do for the 10-22 and I would send it in to them.

Right now the trigger feels like a heavy 2-stage trigger - I usually can take up the "slack" which is the trigger blade safety and then about 1-2 pounds till the trigger hits a "wall", then another ~3 pounds before the trigger breaks. If Brimstone or CPC could cut the weight down to ~ 2 pounds and clean up the creep, I would be happy.


I don't know if I will try the foil bedding. My boys gun seems fine without it so far.

The mag well still ticks me off. I put the kidd plunger and extra heavy spring in and it helps only so far for the 15-25 round mags. Still my old and worn 10 round mags work without a hitch and they don't get bumped around. Haven't had any feeding issues with the 10 round mags other than the new ones that are wound too tight. Just need to take them down and unwind them a little bit.

Accuracy wise, with the new aftermarket barrel, this gun is plenty accurate enough for what my boy will be using it for. Dropping over a pound off the barrel was big for him.


I am really debating on another RPRr in 17hm2. If the magwell worked as good as my 10-22 and all they would have had to do was cast a metal magwell like the 10-22. Then I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another gun.

After looking at the Timney unit....it appears as though their unit has deeper clearance cuts than the Ruger unit. It may help the safety issue ?


I know lots of people have been disappointed in the accuracy because it's called the Ruger Precision Rimfire but for me, I look at it as super handy squirrel bolt action rifle that needs a few tweaks to get it up to snuff.

It is so very simple, so simple that you would rather do it than bother with the time it takes to mail it out. You don't need a granite surface plate or anything fancy.... I have a small 8" x 12" plate but that is not what I used. Any granite countertop or glass top table is good enough. I have it stuck to my laptop for this demo. It gave me a 1# trigger with no discernable creep. I absolutely believe that YOU could do it.

My only concern is that you loose the E-clip that holds the trigger pin in place. I got some 1 micron ( 14,000 grit ) lapping film with PSA backing from e-bay and stuck it to a flat surface. All you will need is a strip about 1" x 3". The trigger sear is almost 1/4" square, so if you use soft, gentle strokes, the trigger will maintain it's factory shape and stay square to the world. The edge of the sear that is important is the side next to the pivot though I did the entire top surface as you can see. You want to keep the sear edge to be sharp and not rounded over at all. After I did that, I removed the trigger tension set screw and it's spring completely. I reassembled and had a one pound trigger. I did the same thing with my American bull barrel.

I just got a couple Annie's with the 5098 triggers..... pricey but like any really quality item, you can hand them down to your
children.

I too installed a Kidd plunger with x-pwr spring and it did about nothing. Dimensionally it's virtually the same. Even the spring wire diameter. Always remember that I work on my guns largely for the enjoyment it brings me.

The blue rifle is a .177 air rifle. The second to last is a CZ457 MTR. I put an extended aluminum magazine release today. It's only .085" longer but it helps and the factory is a plastic. I got the two Annie's this past week. You can see that the Annie's have 17mm of trigger adjustment for and aft and the blade is wicked comfortable in it's shape and weight of 6.35 oz.

I removed the hand guard and that helped my safety a bit. I also snugged up the action screws a little at a time. Front then rear then front then rear. In the rear slot of the trigger module, I can see some galling from the thumb button in the safety module. I'm going to enlarge the housing slot on Sunday, that should help loosen up the safety too. I will make it deeper like the new Timney

 

[FALex]

Hey all, I did not get through the entire 20+ pages on the RPR, but have a question. I am wanting to get one of these for my 7 year old boy so we went to the LGS to check their model out. Now they only had one and the bolt was super difficult to cam down on. In fact, my boy couldn't do it and it took quite a bit of muscling for me to get it in there.

I am assuming this is not common and that this particular unit was defective but I need to be sure. The dude behind the counter said he believed there was something out of spec, but he wasn't 100% sure. So what's the final verdict on this one?

 

[Oleshep]

Hey all, I did not get through the entire 20+ pages on the RPR, but have a question. I am wanting to get one of these for my 7 year old boy so we went to the LGS to check their model out. Now they only had one and the bolt was super difficult to cam down on. In fact, my boy couldn't do it and it took quite a bit of muscling for me to get it in there.

I am assuming this is not common and that this particular unit was defective but I need to be sure. The dude behind the counter said he believed there was something out of spec, but he wasn't 100% sure. So what's the final verdict on this one?

mine is a little hard to close so I worked on the edge a bit to make it easier. I would not say it was super hard to close though..

 

[Frankr]

It is so very simple, so simple that you would rather do it than bother with the time it takes to mail it out. You don't need a granite surface plate or anything fancy.... I have a small 8" x 12" plate but that is not what I used. Any granite countertop or glass top table is good enough. I have it stuck to my laptop for this demo. It gave me a 1# trigger with no discernable creep. I absolutely believe that YOU could do it.

My only concern is that you loose the E-clip that holds the trigger pin in place. I got some 1 micron ( 14,000 grit ) lapping film with PSA backing from e-bay and stuck it to a flat surface. All you will need is a strip about 1" x 3". The trigger sear is almost 1/4" square, so if you use soft, gentle strokes, the trigger will maintain it's factory shape and stay square to the world. The edge of the sear that is important is the side next to the pivot though I did the entire top surface as you can see. You want to keep the sear edge to be sharp and not rounded over at all. After I did that, I removed the trigger tension set screw and it's spring completely. I reassembled and had a one pound trigger. I did the same thing with my American bull barrel.

I just got a couple Annie's with the 5098 triggers..... pricey but like any really quality item, you can hand them down to your
children.

I too installed a Kidd plunger with x-pwr spring and it did about nothing. Dimensionally it's virtually the same. Even the spring wire diameter. Always remember that I work on my guns largely for the enjoyment it brings me.

The blue rifle is a .177 air rifle. The second to last is a CZ457 MTR. I put an extended aluminum magazine release today. It's only .085" longer but it helps and the factory is a plastic. I got the two Annie's this past week. You can see that the Annie's have 17mm of trigger adjustment for and aft and the blade is wicked comfortable in it's shape and weight of 6.35 oz.

I removed the hand guard and that helped my safety a bit. I also snugged up the action screws a little at a time. Front then rear then front then rear. In the rear slot of the trigger module, I can see some galling from the thumb button in the safety module. I'm going to enlarge the housing slot on Sunday, that should help loosen up the safety too. I will make it deeper like the new Timney

Thanks for the info. Maybe I will pull it apart and give it a go.

I still have a cz455 stock to modify as well. Always fun working on guns

 

[Frankr]

Side note:

Took a minute to compare cycling my 10-22, 10 round magazines in the RPRr.

1 - 1998 ish magazine with a ton of rounds through it (probably 20-30,000 rounds)

2- brand new 2018 magazines that came with the RPRr.

Old magazine feeds like smooth as butter but the new magazines suck. They cause feeding issues, are rough and the bullets pulled out after have the groove on the bottom of them.

Will post pictures tomorrow

 

[Sieg]

@Frankr I have the same era of mags and did the same test. The difference appears to be machined vs cast lip section?

I took a flat diamond file and a Dremel tool to the new mag without removing the inset from the housing and it helped. To do a proper job I need to disassemble the mag to effectively smooth the underside of the edges that contact the case rim.

 

[Kafee]

This is my first rimfire rifle, RPRR. The choice was between this and the Tikka T1X, and because of the adjustability and relatively low price point I ended up purchasing the Ruger. Some of the features and problems have since made me doubt my decision, but so far I'm still relatively happy with the choice.

Seems my RPRR sometimes suffers from bad ejection. I uploaded a couple of videos to youtube if you have any ideas how to maybe go about fixing this problem: slow-mo #1 and slow-mo #2. Looks like either the spring holding the shell is too weak and/or the extractor slips.


Also attached a couple of photos of markings on the inside of the chassis, near the stock. These have formed from dissassemly and assembly when sliding the action in and out of chassis. Are these normal? Feels like the back of the action might not be seated on the chassis properly and I'm wondering whether I should shave away some of the material from the walls.


Below a couple of photos of groups from 50 m. I'm not sure how much of this is me, rifle, ammunition or the wind. Overall, I'm satisfied with the potential this rifle offers, but I have no knowledge what is considered good.

CCI Standard shoots OK most times, sometimes the groups get pretty bad.


Lapua Midas+ has so far been the most accurate cartridge I've tested.


Fun gun to shoot and practice long range shooting.

 

[AirGunShawn]

It is so very simple, so simple that you would rather do it than bother with the time it takes to mail it out. You don't need a granite surface plate or anything fancy.... I have a small 8" x 12" plate but that is not what I used. Any granite countertop or glass top table is good enough. I have it stuck to my laptop for this demo. It gave me a 1# trigger with no discernable creep. I absolutely believe that YOU could do it.

My only concern is that you loose the E-clip that holds the trigger pin in place. I got some 1 micron ( 14,000 grit ) lapping film with PSA backing from e-bay and stuck it to a flat surface. All you will need is a strip about 1" x 3". The trigger sear is almost 1/4" square, so if you use soft, gentle strokes, the trigger will maintain it's factory shape and stay square to the world. The edge of the sear that is important is the side next to the pivot though I did the entire top surface as you can see. You want to keep the sear edge to be sharp and not rounded over at all. After I did that, I removed the trigger tension set screw and it's spring completely. I reassembled and had a one pound trigger. I did the same thing with my American bull barrel.

I just got a couple Annie's with the 5098 triggers..... pricey but like any really quality item, you can hand them down to your
children.

I too installed a Kidd plunger with x-pwr spring and it did about nothing. Dimensionally it's virtually the same. Even the spring wire diameter. Always remember that I work on my guns largely for the enjoyment it brings me.

The blue rifle is a .177 air rifle. The second to last is a CZ457 MTR. I put an extended aluminum magazine release today. It's only .085" longer but it helps and the factory is a plastic. I got the two Annie's this past week. You can see that the Annie's have 17mm of trigger adjustment for and aft and the blade is wicked comfortable in it's shape and weight of 6.35 oz.

Addition to trigger fix........ If you loose your trigger E-clip, go to McMaster Carr and do a search for # 94981A120. That will get you to some S.S. E-clips for
just under 7.81$ for 25 qty. If you want high carbon black # 99620A525 for 100 qty. 7.81$ When you get your lapping film, don't forget to get the PSA backing. ( Pressure Sensitive Adhesive )

I removed the hand guard and that helped my safety a bit. I also snugged up the action screws a little at a time. Front then rear then front then rear. In the rear slot of the trigger module, I can see some galling from the thumb button in the safety module. I'm going to enlarge the housing slot on Sunday, that should help loosen up the safety too. I will make it deeper like the new Timney

 

[TheMightyGorilla]

I had a weird weekend with my RPR. Saturday was beautiful and I decided to just have fun with the gun and not ammo test. For some reason it was loving the CCI SV that day. Got me 2 golf balls @ ~220yds again. That never gets old.

Another member let me try a box of Wolf Match extra. The performance wasn't the problem, the ejection was! Almost EVERY ROUND wouldn't eject. I was even using the PITA Sled. I noticed the ejecter was actually putting a deeper groove in the brass than the CCI. Also noticed the Wolf had a lube on it. (Giggity). I'm going to try to wash off the lube on a few and try them again. This makes my only ejection issues with Winchester and now Wolf.

The next day I decided to ammo test. Setup targets and station. Thought, "What ammo should I start with.....awww F^&*!!!"

I forgot my ammo can. Lulz. Its a 30min drive each way! A nice member let me use some Aguila, which the rifle hates.

So... anywho... the moral of the story is... we certainly had nice weather.

 

[800GS]

I had a weird weekend with my RPR. Saturday was beautiful and I decided to just have fun with the gun and not ammo test. For some reason it was loving the CCI SV that day. Got me 2 golf balls @ ~220yds again. That never gets old.

Another member let me try a box of Wolf Match extra. The performance wasn't the problem, the ejection was! Almost EVERY ROUND wouldn't eject. I was even using the PITA Sled. I noticed the ejecter was actually putting a deeper groove in the brass than the CCI. Also noticed the Wolf had a lube on it. (Giggity). I'm going to try to wash off the lube on a few and try them again. This makes my only ejection issues with Winchester and now Wolf.

The next day I decided to ammo test. Setup targets and station. Thought, "What ammo should I start with.....awww F^&*!!!"

I forgot my ammo can. Lulz. Its a 30min drive each way! A nice member let me use some Aguila, which the rifle hates.

So... anywho... the moral of the story is... we certainly had nice weather.

Just remember that the brass ejects off the square edge on the magazine (NOT the guns ejector) when a factory magazine is installed (brass doesn't as far back as the ejector before ejecting when mag is in place) .

I presume that the PITA Sled (being all plastic) allows the brass to get all the way back to the gun's ejector to eject & flip the spent case out.

 

[TheMightyGorilla]

Just remember that the brass ejects off the square edge on the magazine (NOT the guns ejector) when a factory magazine is installed (brass doesn't as far back as the ejector before ejecting when mag is in place) .

I presume that the PITA Sled (being all plastic) allows the brass to get all the way back to the gun's ejector to eject & flip the spent case out.

It does. I've generally had no issues with the sled ejecting other than my ape fingers trying to place the round in correctly. Which I almost have worked out now.

I guess I also forgot to update that. I did file the burr down on the Beta PITA sled. And I installed the stiffer mag release spring. The sled is now rock solid. I won't claim accuracy until I can post a 6x5 pic here. Hopefully this weekend.

 

[Eoddave27]

I have had issues in my Ruger with specific lots of ammo. I had issues with one lot of CCI SV in particular. I switched to a different lot of the CCI and no problem. When back to it and almost every round jammed. I couldn’t see a difference but there always obviously something I was missing. I guess my point is some different wolf may feed great. In general that is my Ruger’s favorite ammo. I have tried three different lots of Wolf and all three have shot really well.

 

[800GS]

It does. I've generally had no issues with the sled ejecting other than my ape fingers trying to place the round in correctly. Which I almost have worked out now.

I guess I also forgot to update that. I did file the burr down on the Beta PITA sled. And I installed the stiffer mag release spring. The sled is now rock solid. I won't claim accuracy until I can post a 6x5 pic here. Hopefully this weekend.

I would be very interested in seeing your 6x5 accuracy.

My RPRR has been a test of my patience. You can just about set your watch on .580" to .680" 5 shot groups at 50 yards ( without wind). This is with CCI SV & a 'good' 25 power scope.

The disappointing part is the usual 2 near fliers in each group that gives me that .580" to .680" .

If I shoot 8 shot groups & drop the 2 worst I can usually get .310"-.355" 6 shot groups.

I do have a PITA sled coming but I'm not sure that will be the answer as I have my BX-1 10 round mags spring adjusted so I get no feeding marks on the bullets (that I can see anyhow) .

It might be the darn CCI SV ammo as I seldom get a lateral flier (they almost always go high with an occasional low). Not directly high or directly low but usually high or low within the base group width.

When you get your best groups with (whatever .22 ammo is best in your gun) can you also shoot a 6x5 with CCI SV just as a comparison.

It's been too darn windy in my area the last week or so to do any precision .22 shooting.

When the wind subsides I think I am going to take the extra time to shoot all my shots over my chronograph to see if I can correlate the highs & lows to bullet speed.

 

[SameOle]

Where on the extractor hook are you filing?

 

[straightshooter1]

When the wind subsides I think I am going to take the extra time to shoot all my shots over my chronograph to see if I can correlate the highs & lows to bullet speed.

You should be easy enough to see that correlation as I did just a few days ago. I had a large sheet of white paper with 1/2" dots on it and was practicing while I had my MagnetoSpeed V3 mounted and recording velocities as I most often do. I often do this as the chrono is mounted from the hand guard rather than onto the barrel (it's a quick and easy mounting, so I figure . . . why not record since there's on affect on POI). Anyway, when I'm using a large white sheet of paper for my targets, I can see the flight of the bullet against the white as it makes impact. When I saw a round impact way low or way high from my POA, I'd look at the chrono's screen to see its velocity and sure enough, it showed a direct correlation. It only confirms what one can logically surmise for such variations in velocity.

PS: I didn't think about it at the time, but I should have taken measurements of the POI's as they related to the MV's. I think next time out I'll try that with a couple different cartridges . . . maybe for some quantifying of the differences.

 

[srbecker58]

Well, just for a little update for everyone. I got a better scope, Primary Arms 4-14x44 Mildot. In addition, I put a muzzle brake on it and purchased a sled to compare accuracy between single feed and magazine feeding. Once I got it zeroed at 50, I began some ammo testing.

I tested:
CCI SV 40gr
CCI Mini-Mag 40gr
CCI AR Tactical 40gr
Winchester 333 White box bulk pack
Winchester 40gr (red plastic box)
Aguila Super Extra 1130fps
Aguila Super Extra CP 1255fps
Federal Champion
Federal HV Match
Blazer

Right off the bat, both Winchesters and Aguila SE (non copper plated) could be ruled out. Those groups were just horrible (see photos).

Despite those, I did see some promising results from the other ammunition, specifically the CCI AR Tactical, Aguila SE CP, the Federal HV Match. I got the smallest, most consistant groups from the CCI AR Tactical though. These groups are NOT sub MOA, however, I think part of that has more to do with me than the gun. I am going to get some more rounds down range with the AR Tactical ammo, then decide if a better barrel is in store or if I am happy with the accuracy as it sits.

My best groups were:
CCI AR Tactical .42" with sled
CCI AR Tactical .54" with mag
Aguila SE CP .59" with sled
Aguila SE CP .67" with mag (removing 1 pull that I know was my fault)
Aguila SE CP .69" with mag
CCI AR Tactical .75" with sled
Federal HV Match .78" with mag
CCI AR Tactical .79" with mag

I am not as scientific as some others on here with my testing. I did 0 cleaning until my last 3 groups which actually seemed to slightly hinder my groups. Most of my magazine groups were 10 shot groups and the sled groups were 5 shot groups. My one group at .42" I think is promising and really shows what this rifle is capable of (if I do my part).

Feel free to chime in on these groups and let me know what you think!

 

[straightshooter1]

Well, just for a little update for everyone. I got a better scope, Primary Arms 4-14x44 Mildot. In addition, I put a muzzle brake on it and purchased a sled to compare accuracy between single feed and magazine feeding. Once I got it zeroed at 50, I began some ammo testing.

I tested:
CCI SV 40gr
CCI Mini-Mag 40gr
CCI AR Tactical 40gr
Winchester 333 White box bulk pack
Winchester 40gr (red plastic box)
Aguila Super Extra 1130fps
Aguila Super Extra CP 1255fps
Federal Champion
Federal HV Match
Blazer

Right off the bat, both Winchesters and Aguila SE (non copper plated) could be ruled out. Those groups were just horrible (see photos).

Despite those, I did see some promising results from the other ammunition, specifically the CCI AR Tactical, Aguila SE CP, the Federal HV Match. I got the smallest, most consistant groups from the CCI AR Tactical though. These groups are NOT sub MOA, however, I think part of that has more to do with me than the gun. I am going to get some more rounds down range with the AR Tactical ammo, then decide if a better barrel is in store or if I am happy with the accuracy as it sits.

My best groups were:
CCI AR Tactical .42" with sled
CCI AR Tactical .54" with mag
Aguila SE CP .59" with sled
Aguila SE CP .67" with mag (removing 1 pull that I know was my fault)
Aguila SE CP .69" with mag
CCI AR Tactical .75" with sled
Federal HV Match .78" with mag
CCI AR Tactical .79" with mag

I am not as scientific as some others on here with my testing. I did 0 cleaning until my last 3 groups which actually seemed to slightly hinder my groups. Most of my magazine groups were 10 shot groups and the sled groups were 5 shot groups. My one group at .42" I think is promising and really shows what this rifle is capable of (if I do my part).

Feel free to chime in on these groups and let me know what you think!

Over the last 4 years I've collected 1,000 spreadsheet lines of data on a wide range of cartridges and what I can tell you from that data is that when one's budget is limited and one uses really inexpensive ammo one's not going to get tight groups/consistency for one reason or another. Oh, once and a while one might come across a box where it shoots really well, but go back to buy more, expecting to get the same results, one is going to be disappointed in the results. Most likely, one will then get mediocre result at best. This phenomenon is even true for the highest quality .22lr ammo, but the "bad" results for high quality ammo would be pretty good results for the cheap stuff.

One exception on the cheap ammo, which many shooters around here can attest to, is the CCI SV's, which seem to work really well in a wide variety of rifle configurations . . . particularly for something at such a low price point. Federal Auto Match is another that show to do well (most of the time) at the low price points. You might consider shooting a lot of it for practice and breaking in your barrel. Speaking of barrels, I don't know how many rounds you have through your yet, but I know it'll take a few hundred before it really starts to get consistent (hopefully, all there other quirks have been worked out). And for any hunting, the CCI Mini Mags also do a great job at its price point. But like so many here will also attest to, finding the right cartridge you're particular rifle like can be quite a chore as it having the same cartridge work well over time.

The cartridges you've used above are not any that would typically do as well better what what I've suggested . . . . unless your particular barrel really likes them. And it appears to me, it does not. So . . .???

Well . . . that's what I think and it's just one man's opinion. ?

 

[MRiles]

Had ejection problems with some ammo and not others with the short throw. Eley in particular.
Dremeled the bolt stop spring clip a tad and no more ejection issues.

 

[straightshooter1]

Had ejection problems with some ammo and not others with the short throw. Eley in particular.
Dremeled the bolt stop spring clip a tad and no more ejection issues.

Hmmm??? Interesting.

Have you tightened up your Magazine Latch Assembly at all?

If it is loose like so many of the RPRR's have been, I can see how that mod can help by getting more bolt travel so the the ejector has more contact longer to push the case out of the ejector spring.

On my RPRR, I've tightened my Magazine Latch Assembly using some aluminum tape so that it fits somewhat tight into position and has no movement. When I look through the magazine well at the bolt as I pull the bolt back, the ejector ejects the case well before the bolt stop spring stops the bolt movement. So this mod on mine wouldn't really make any difference.

Initially, I did still have have an ejection issue when I firmed up the Magazine Latch Assembly. I found the ejector was too far from the side of the bolt where it was supposed to make contact with the case. I took the ejector out and bent it ever so slightly so that it almost touches the bolt and now fully engages the case for ejection, as I think it was actually designed to do. But . . . this mod I isn't going to work well unless the extractor spring is holding the case firmly in place, as many people have found their bolt only holding the case very loosely. So, I find there's several things gong on with the RPRR's ejection issue where one can have any combination of these issues.

 

[MRiles]

Have you tightened up your Magazine Latch Assembly at all?

I have done the aluminum bedding.
Failure to eject before mod could be overcome 90% of the time by pulling bolt back with speed and force.
After mod, ejection does not require any speed or force. Can cycle fast or slow.