Ruger Precision Rimfire

[TheMightyGorilla]

Any idea if any company is working the magazine release?

I don't have access to a 3D printer so that's out.

Just ordered the Kidd plunger and extra power spring to help with the magazine tilting. Should be here in 2-4 days

The shop at work is resin printing me one over the weekend. If that doesn't turn out right they might make me one out of aluminum. I'm not sure I can get them to actually sell them, as this is not what they do. But if it turns out decent I may ask.

I also ordered teh kidd stiff spring

 

[Lmatt]

Bought a used one earlier this week that my brother-in-law bought on Black Friday (38xxx). The action was sticky and the bolt locked down pretty hard. I was at sportsmans warehouse yesterday and the one on the shelf was much smoother and locked down much easier. So I decided to grab a new one and sell off the old one. The new one has a lower serial number (36xxx). When I took it apart to clean it and center the barrel in the hand guard the bedding block fell out. You have to push the block in and out of the used one I bought.

 

[straightshooter1]

Has Timney said when they are going to relase there trigger yet, and if anyone was selected to beta test have initial onpnions?

Timney was good enough to send me one to beta test a couple months ago. So, now I've fired it just over 1,200 rounds and it feels really good.

When I first got my Ruger Precision Rimfire I modified the trigger to 12 - 14 oz like I did on my .308 RPR to that the trigger would feel the same. And it pretty much was identical in feel. And I really liked that light trigger pull as it helped my with my consistency. So, I've actually been pretty happy with my factory triggers and wasn't really looking to replace them. But, I really wanted to try a Timney to compare with my factory settings to see just how much more of a difference there might be.

I was very pleased when Timney sent me a trigger to beta test in my Rimfire RPR and when I got it I play with the range in adjustment to see what the limits of that range was and how it felt at different setting. It came to me set at 1lb 5 oz to 1 lb 6 oz. So I began reducing the settings, first to 14 oz, then 12 oz, then 8 oz and when I went below 8 oz, it would no longer function. Then I went the other way going to 1 lb 8 oz to 1 lb 13 oz and finally to 2 lbs (which was 3 full turns of the adjustment screw from the factory setting) and beyond that 2 lbs it no longer functioned as it did when I went below 8 oz.

Setting it up at 12 oz to be pretty much the same as my factory trigger setting, I wanted to see just what difference I might feel. Dry firing a few times I switched back an forth between the two trigger to get some idea of the difference in feel. I found that there was a definite difference in favor of the Timney trigger, though I wouldn't say a great different at this setting. But I have a feeling that if one uses a little heavier pull, one would probably find a more significant difference. It did seem that the lock time was quicker with the Timney, but I really have no way to quantify that, so it really just a guess the way it felt. The Timney also felt just a little smoother to me and it breaks nice and crisp. . . as one might expect.

After doing some range shooting for a while with the factory grip and the Timney, I recently installed a vertical grip and with that along with the Timney trigger, I really like the feel and it's all really helped my consistency. When the weather gets better, I'm hoping to really run the system through its paces.

 

[Frankr]

The shop at work is resin printing me one over the weekend. If that doesn't turn out right they might make me one out of aluminum. I'm not sure I can get them to actually sell them, as this is not what they do. But if it turns out decent I may ask.

I also ordered teh kidd stiff spring

If they decide to sell any let me know.

 

[Sdavis190]

Any idea if any company is working the magazine release?

I don't have access to a 3D printer so that's out.

Just ordered the Kidd plunger and extra power spring to help with the magazine tilting. Should be here in 2-4 days

Mongoose 2 Actual makes an extended mag release specifically for the RPRR, if that’s what you’re talking about. It’s available on their site, and on Anarchy Outdoors.

 

[Trappnp]

Timney was good enough to send me one to beta test a couple months ago. So, now I've fired it just over 1,200 rounds and it feels really good.

When I first got my Ruger Precision Rimfire I modified the trigger to 12 - 14 oz like I did on my .308 RPR to that the trigger would feel the same. And it pretty much was identical in feel. And I really liked that light trigger pull as it helped my with my consistency. So, I've actually been pretty happy with my factory triggers and wasn't really looking to replace them. But, I really wanted to try a Timney to compare with my factory settings to see just how much more of a difference there might be.

I was very pleased when Timney sent me a trigger to beta test in my Rimfire RPR and when I got it I play with the range in adjustment to see what the limits of that range was and how it felt at different setting. It came to me set at 1lb 5 oz to 1 lb 6 oz. So I began reducing the settings, first to 14 oz, then 12 oz, then 8 oz and when I went below 8 oz, it would no longer function. Then I went the other way going to 1 lb 8 oz to 1 lb 13 oz and finally to 2 lbs (which was 3 full turns of the adjustment screw from the factory setting) and beyond that 2 lbs it no longer functioned as it did when I went below 8 oz.

Setting it up at 12 oz to be pretty much the same as my factory trigger setting, I wanted to see just what difference I might feel. Dry firing a few times I switched back an forth between the two trigger to get some idea of the difference in feel. I found that there was a definite difference in favor of the Timney trigger, though I wouldn't say a great different at this setting. But I have a feeling that if one uses a little heavier pull, one would probably find a more significant difference. It did seem that the lock time was quicker with the Timney, but I really have no way to quantify that, so it really just a guess the way it felt. The Timney also felt just a little smoother to me and it breaks nice and crisp. . . as one might expect.

After doing some range shooting for a while with the factory grip and the Timney, I recently installed a vertical grip and with that along with the Timney trigger, I really like the feel and it's all really helped my consistency. When the weather gets better, I'm hoping to really run the system through its paces.

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Great summary, defiantly looking forward to the final review, also is that an MPA grip on your rig?

 

[straightshooter1]

Great summary, defiantly looking forward to the final review, also is that an MPA grip on your rig?

Yes, it's an MPA grip.

This is where I got it:
https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/mpa-evg-enhanced-vertical-grip/

 

[Frankr]

Mongoose 2 Actual makes an extended mag release specifically for the RPRR, if that’s what you’re talking about. It’s available on their site, and on Anarchy Outdoors.

Thanks for the info. Took a look and it looks nice (May end up with one in the end)

But I was hoping for something like this

I have one on my 10-22 so one similar on the RPRR would be nice. It stays out of the way but at the same time is super easy to use when needed.

 

[TheMightyGorilla]

Here is my resin printed mag extender curing under ultraviolet lights. We added some slight reenforcment lines, but we are not sure this will be strong enough. Another one is going to be printed the regular way as well.

One of the guys in the shop told me about a site that will 3D print anything, in almost any material and its pretty inexpensive:

https://www.shapeways.com/create?

I'm having fun messing around witht he shop guys, but that might be an option for others without a 3D printer.

 

[TheMightyGorilla]

I wanted to ask, has anyone tried a barrel tuner with this rifle? Threaded obviously. I contacted one maker, but he advised the standard threads would require an adapter and it is not optimal. For best results I would have to thread the barrel behind the 1/2 - 28 threads.


Also, has anyone with a green mountain barrel posted a 6x5 comparing standard with GM?

 

[Carriec]

Parts from Kidd came yesterday and I got them in today. Using the stronger spring the amount of pressure required to start the plunger moving went from .75# to 1.75#. The OEM spring is shorter and of course a bit weaker. I did not test the standard spring that came with the plunger from Kidd.

Then headed

to the range for a quick lunch break shoot. Ran 3 10 round mags of Eley Club starting with a clean bore. Shooting 50 yds off a UTG bipod. Left to right in order the groups tightening up with a little fouling but I ran out of time. 104 rounds on the barrel so I expect it will improve a little bit. I'm having fun with it. Cheers!

 

[gunsforfun331]

Just read through a bunch of this thread. My first post on the site but I felt like the RPR rim was getting unfair treatment.
It’s a $400 gun.
I have run just over 4500 rounds through the one I bought in March. Mostly steel from 100-325yds.
Paper it shoots just under .75” with Eley Orange box at 100. And right around 1-1.1” with CCI SV. I haven’t done a single modification except taping for the mag issue.
For $400 this works as a trainer better than any other that I have tried in the price range.
It doesn’t make sense to me sinking a bunch of money into modding it...I would rather spend on ammo.

If you read through, that means you also realize that, 'we already understand that it's a $400 rifle'. Regardless, we will still try to improve the rifle.

 

[TheMightyGorilla]

I filed down the burr in my BETA Pita Sled, and I installed the stiffer magazine spring from KIDD. The sled is now a FIGHT to get out. It is very tight. No, I mean like HOLY CRAP I can't get it out! Until I figured out the best way to work it out repeatedly. So this is good. I'll test at the range when it isn't covered in snow. The 10 round mag is tighter. The 15 round mag... IS NOT TIGHTER. It made almost no difference in wiggle. IMHO, abandon the 15 rnd mag, and buy a few 10 rond ones and a sled. The stock mag is a lost cause.

I also installed my resin printed etended mag release. It fit perfectly! It worked perfectly! And then... I BROKE it! It was not weak, but my fault. However I didn't see a way around it. There is NOT enough space to get the torque wrench in between the finger release to tighten the action bolt to spec! I tried al sorts of ways. My options were to guess and hand tighten, or slowly try to work the extension bit in between the fingers. This put unplanned force on what I now see as the weakest part of the mag release extender.

Since we have the file for it, I may have the shop make some adjustments and reprint. I'll let you know. If anyone else has tried this extended mag release, how did you torque the action screw???

 

[elfster1234]

They got the 22lr rpr on palmetto state Armory for $349

 

[craig24680]

Got the Kidd plunger and extra spring today, hope to install tomorrow for weekend outing.
Was hoping to get one of the Timney test triggers but they didn't pick me
The extended mag release looks nice and hope someone can bring to market at a good price as I do not have access to 3D printer.

 

[CJWhiskus]

I wanted to ask, has anyone tried a barrel tuner with this rifle? Threaded obviously. I contacted one maker, but he advised the standard threads would require an adapter and it is not optimal. For best results I would have to thread the barrel behind the 1/2 - 28 threads.


Also, has anyone with a green mountain barrel posted a 6x5 comparing standard with GM?

TheMightyGorilla-
I got a Harrells Tuner Muzzle Brake for an AR .223 that has the same thread as the RPRR. It fits just fine. I've only done a little preliminary testing with it at 25yds with CCI AR Tactical ammunition to see how it works. I did get a few groups that look promising. One group was 10 shots with 9 measuring .61" edge to edge and one off the group. Subtract .223 and that's a .387 (1.5moa) group for 9 shots. Another was 10 shots with 8 measuring .45" edge to edge and two off the group. Subtract .223 and a that's .227 (1 moa) group for 8 shots. I think there might be a sweet spot between the settings for those two groups. When weather permits, I'll test with some better ammunition, probably CCI SV to start. If I can eliminate the fliers, I'll increase the distance. Regards.

 

[800GS]

So I'm going to answer my own question here. I sent an email to Possum Hollow asking if they made a guide for the RPRimfire as I couldn't find it on their list. Got an email back the same day telling me which part number guide would fit and said if I'd call they would send one right out to me. Didn't read the email until late Friday night, so on a whim I called Sat. morning. Spoke to the guy that answered my email (Eric) and ordered one over the phone. Talk about customer service!!

Thank you posting that info--

I looked and looked but couldn't find one.

I have been using a .17 cleaning rod with the handle removed and a 1/2" 10" wooden dowel pressed on the rod to replace the handle (this allows me to run the cleaning rod under the cheek rest then through the chamber from the rear with the stock in place).

For a guide I have been using a spent .22 case with the rim end drilled to slightly over the .17 cleaning rod diameter then slid on the cleaning rod. The .22 case stays on the cleaning rod so slides in when the rod is inserted then pulls back out as the rod is removed (not as good a dedicated guide but it does protect the chamber and lead).

 

[srbecker58]

This post is going to be a copy and paste from my post over at Rimfire central in hopes to reach a different audience and get as many opinions as I can, mostly to calm my nerves, but also because I enjoy learning as well as hearing everyone's opinions. I did read through this entire thread last night for 4 hours, so that reading is really what prompted my post.

I just purchased the Ruger Precision Rimfire (RPRR) last week after reading and hearing good things about it, only to find these forum posts both here and at Sniperhide, so now I am concerned/second guessing my purchase.

Did I make a mistake in my purchase?

I have a Remington 597 with some upgrades and that thing can shoot!!!! However, it is semi-automatic and I have always wanted a bolt action .22lr and this one seemed promising both in the looks department as well as accuracy.

Mounted on the gun is a Primary Arms 6x .22lr ACSS. I have the 1-6x on my Remington and had really good luck with it but dont need variable zoom on this particular rifle so I tried to save a few bucks.

Upon sighting the gun in, I got a really good group once I got it zeroed (see 2nd group photo, target 1). I was pretty happy with that, however then I continued to shoot and noticed my groups opening back up and starting to string mostly in the vertical direction. I remember reading a few reviews of people that had that issue with the scope, so I instantly assumed it was the scope, took it off, sent it back, now I am waiting for my store credit which I plan to use to upgrade to the 1-6x instead since I have had such good luck with it on my remington.

In the meantime, I am not wondering if I made a poor purchase? I really did not want to spend $600+ on a CZ as I plan to do mostly plinking with this rifle, and if it shoots well enough, maybe some local .22 competitions at our range. It seems my action and everything is all tight, unlike some of the posts I have seen where people are doing bedding jobs and stuff. I live in NY, so I already have the 10 round mag that people have had better luck with it seems.

My question while I wait for a new scope, do these targets look like a rifle issue or a scope issue. I am hoping for the latter of the 2 because I really dont want to deal with the headaches others have had to deal with that I have been reading.

Did I make a poor decision to purchase this rifle?

What other options are out there that you would have gone with instead (if any) within the same price range?

Has Ruger made any improvements on this rifle/platform/chassis since it first came out to remedy any of the known issues?

 

[Travelor]

My opinion after trying to get my Ruger Precision Rifle to shoot well is that the problem is NOT the scope.

 

[srbecker58]

My opinion after trying to get my Ruger Precision Rifle to shoot well is that the problem is NOT the scope.

Dang! Your not helping hahaha. I just dont see how a gun that is capable of shooting that tiny little group on target 2, group 1 is the same gun that shoots some of those other groups. I am going to give it another go with a better scope and hope things improve, but if not, this thing is going back to ruger and I wont want one back. I spent 1/3 of that price on my Remington and it shoots way better. I dont have the time or resources to tinker and try to bring the accuracy in tighter. If I did, I would have went with the CZ or built a custom .22.

 

[Travelor]

Your experience is like mine. First groups were very good, then NEVER able to replicate them. I have gone through 3 Ruger barrels (2 trips back to Ruger) and then put a Green Mountain barrel on. - helped but no brass ring.

Read all the fixes reported on the web here and on Rimfire Central including using tape to snug the action to the stock Helped but still not happy with the gun.

One thing that DID HELP was to take the faory thread protector off - groups improved. Give this a try, also use 10 round Ruger magazine with the spring tension reduced to 1 1/2 turns.

 

[srbecker58]

I only have the 10 round option as I am from the communist state of New York haha. So for once, that is plus since most of the magazine issues seem to be with the 15 rounders. Once I get the new scope, I will try some of the easier fixes first (if the groups arent better) such as the thread protector, feeding rounds manually 1 at a time, and trying different torque settings for the action screws. I dont have an issue with doing the bedding with tape, but I DO have an issue with buying a barrel that costs 1/2 the price of the gun haha. No way is that happening.

 

[Carriec]

Opening a big can of worms srbecker58 but here's my opinion which is worth exactly what you paid for it. It is a < $400 dollar rifle that replicates the "Sniper Chassis Rifle" in 22lr rage of the day. With all OEM components it will never be a .5moa rifle @100yds. Have reasonable expectations and I think you will enjoy it. Precision shooting is like almost every other pursuit. It is 99% a checkbook game. You do tend to get what you pay for. That includes gun, laws and ammo. I like mine a lot and I am fine with how it shoots. Will I spend another K trying to make it shoot one hole at 100yds? No. You get to pick how deep you want to swim. Be wary of posters with their cherry picked 3 shot groups of their (fill in the blank) pea launcher. Lose the angst and have fun!

 

[srbecker58]

Thanks Carriec, I do agree with you, however my groups are not even MOA at 50 yards lol. If I could get my 5 rounds to even have 2 MOA ( 1" at 50 yards) I would be pretty happy to be honest. I mean I am using a 6x scope that has a dot in the center that is .5moa at 50 yards. It nearly covers my aim point! I think my expectations are quite reasonable to want to be inside those circles at 50 yards given my intended use for the rifle (100 yards and closer) as well as maybe some squirrel hunting... and I dont have any rangers near me that offer a further shot than 100 except my buddies house.

 

[tinydane]

There's so many variables that go into the whole "i'm not shooting tight groups". To me from all I've read/researched most of the time it's user error first. Shooting prone? Bench? Bipod? Bags? Repeatable cheekweld, 90 degree trigger pull, proper breathing, proper stock location etc. Also ammo plays a role in .22lr inconsistencies. As someone mentioned earlier, it's a 400 dollar rifle. You can't go expecting Vudoo results at a quarter the cost. Before you throw in the towel on the rifle I'd check off the list many other things first. Most decent quality rifles still seem to shoot better than the user skills using it...just my .02.

 

[srbecker58]

tinydane, I do agree with you and I, by no means, am a top shot or claim to be. The only thing I can compare my groups to are 1. My Remington 597 that is a $179.99 (promo at Dicks Sporting Goods in 2007) and 2. A tape measure. I would expect similar or better groups with this "Precision" rifle than I am getting from my Remington, however that was not the case. I have never even shot a Vudoo or CZ or any .22lr that is considered a precision, so I cannot compare to those anyways. All I know is that on the same day with the same ammo and the same bench, I shot sub moa with my 597 and I shot >2 moa with the Ruger. MOA would be acceptable to me for sure. Even 2 moa to me on this rifle would be acceptable. 2 moa would be inside the circles at 50 yards that I posted above which are 1" circles. I dont think that is very high expectations from a $400 rifle lol.

 

[tinydane]

tinydane, I do agree with you and I, by no means, am a top shot or claim to be. The only thing I can compare my groups to are 1. My Remington 597 that is a $179.99 (promo at Dicks Sporting Goods in 2007) and 2. A tape measure. I would expect similar or better groups with this "Precision" rifle than I am getting from my Remington, however that was not the case. I have never even shot a Vudoo or CZ or any .22lr that is considered a precision, so I cannot compare to those anyways. All I know is that on the same day with the same ammo and the same bench, I shot sub moa with my 597 and I shot >2 moa with the Ruger. MOA would be acceptable to me for sure. Even 2 moa to me on this rifle would be acceptable. 2 moa would be inside the circles at 50 yards that I posted above which are 1" circles. I dont think that is very high expectations from a $400 rifle lol.

Fair enough...time to sell the RPRR Have you tried different brands of ammo in the ruger yet?

 

[Carriec]

Thanks Carriec, I do agree with you, however my groups are not even MOA at 50 yards lol. If I could get my 5 rounds to even have 2 MOA ( 1" at 50 yards) I would be pretty happy to be honest. I mean I am using a 6x scope that has a dot in the center that is .5moa at 50 yards. It nearly covers my aim point! I think my expectations are quite reasonable to want to be inside those circles at 50 yards given my intended use for the rifle (100 yards and closer) as well as maybe some squirrel hunting... and I dont have any rangers near me that offer a further shot than 100 except my buddies house.

You shooting off a bipod, bag, rest? Rearbagged? Stability and technique are a large part of the game.

 

[srbecker58]

I am honestly just in the beginning stages. I am no where near giving up. Just wanted to talk about the groups and any possible fixes to try in case the scope replacement doesnt fix the groupings. I only have about 150 rounds of CCI AR Tactical down the barrel. I have not tried anything yet other than not being happy with that scope, so I started there by replacing it. The scope windage adjustment did not really seem to be working properly on top of getting a nice group, then the groups opening up, then I would rezero, then they would open back up. My experience with firearms made me think it was the scope until I started reading these forums lol.

 

[srbecker58]

You shooting off a bipod, bag, rest? Rearbagged? Stability and technique are a large part of the game.

I was shooting with a bipod at in indoor range that doesnt have a proper shooting rest, so the rear of the rifle was only supported by my shoulder and I was crouched down resting my elbow on my knee for support. Definitely not an ideal shooting position, but I was able to get acceptable results from my 597 in the same fashion...

 

[Carriec]

I was shooting with a bipod at in indoor range that doesnt have a proper shooting rest, so the rear of the rifle was only supported by my shoulder and I was crouched down resting my elbow on my knee for support. Definitely not an ideal shooting position, but I was able to get acceptable results from my 597 in the same fashion...

That certainly isn’t optimum for accuracy. If you have a lot of trigger time on your 597 then it isn’t surprising that you shoot it better. Happens that way a lot. You will get it.

 

[straightshooter1]

Other then using really good match ammo, there are three things that really helped me get my groups under 1 in at 50 yds.

First thing I did was lighten the trigger pull to less than a pound (about 14 oz, actually . . . by removing the trigger adjustment spring).

Like some others who have an RPRR, I also found that holding the rifle very, very lightly with very, very little pressure on the cheek rest helped me quite a lot. Apparently, there's enough flex in the chassis that tends to throw one's POI off.

And the last thing that really helped me was installing a vertical grip giving me more consistent trigger pull.

 

[srbecker58]

What about the thread protector as well? I have hear a ton of people removing that as it seems to be part of the accuracy issues. If I wanted to ditch that and throw a muzzle brake on, can I just grab any cheapo from say amazon like this one?

Amazon.com: Arculy .223/.308 Brake/Break (x): Sports & Outdoors

Buy Arculy .223/.308 Brake/Break (x): Brake System - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[straightshooter1]

What about the thread protector as well? I have hear a ton of people removing that as it seems to be part of the accuracy issues. If I wanted to ditch that and throw a muzzle brake on, can I just grab any cheapo from say amazon like this one?

Amazon.com: Arculy .223/.308 Brake/Break (x): Sports & Outdoors

Buy Arculy .223/.308 Brake/Break (x): Brake System - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I haven't done anything with the thread protector . . . as yet. I may runs an experiment soon to see if I can really see any difference.

The threading on the RPRR is 1/2"-28, so that on Amazon should fit with no problem.

 

[Carriec]

I think you may be adding too many variables into the equation at the same time. I would suggest first get a solid bench setup, either double bags or a dedicated shooting rest. Doesn't have to be exotic, I think my Champion was less than $50 on sale. We have 3 sets of Caldwell bags large and small as well. You need to minimize your physical movement in the equation. Pick a good ammo and stay with it. Mine hates CCI SV. Eley or Remington Eley Target or Eley club it likes. You can go nuts with Midas or other top tier but initially you don't need too as that in my experience just tends to eliminate more flyers. You mention an RDS. Again in my experience those are all too big to give you a great POA on a .5" target YMMV. AS already stated I am not spending as much or more on glass as the rifle but I do so knowing it is a somewhat limiting factor. I am using a Nikon 3x9x40 EFR with AO. My eyes are just good enough to see the center reticle circle on a .75" target center. That is plenty to find out how the changes you make are working out. it's always a $ game. Shimming and all the other thread protector etc. changes might be attempted after you get a good, solid, scientific base line to work from. Otherwise you are throwing $$ and time into the wind at things you have yet to identify. Getting there is the gratifying part of the experience in my world. Enjoy the process but apply reason to it and you will get the results you want, or not.

 

[Booner1334]

To return to your original question, I'd say you need a better scope, something that has a crosshair reticle. For a little bit more money, you could get something like a Vortex Crossfire. The whole aim small, miss small thing does have its place. And when you mount the scope in the rings, go easy on tightening the screws. I think Vortex says something like 15 or 18 inch pounds of torque on the screws, max.

My RPRR doen't care for CCI at all, but it's OK to use while you're breaking the barrel in. I personally would not buy that muzzle break you linked to on Amazon. Once you get a better scope, you can shoot the rifle with and without the thread protector to see which situation gives you better groups.

You've received some pretty good advise from others, and I couldn't agree more with doing one thing at a time, otherwise you won't know what works, and what doesn't.

 

[srbecker58]

To return to your original question, I'd say you need a better scope, something that has a crosshair reticle. For a little bit more money, you could get something like a Vortex Crossfire. The whole aim small, miss small thing does have its place. And when you mount the scope in the rings, go easy on tightening the screws. I think Vortex says something like 15 or 18 inch pounds of torque on the screws, max.

My RPRR doen't care for CCI at all, but it's OK to use while you're breaking the barrel in. I personally would not buy that muzzle break you linked to on Amazon. Once you get a better scope, you can shoot the rifle with and without the thread protector to see which situation gives you better groups.

You've received some pretty good advise from others, and I couldn't agree more with doing one thing at a time, otherwise you won't know what works, and what doesn't.

Thaks everyone! I am taking all your advice, starting with the scope. I am going to get the Primary Arms 4-14 Arc-2 scope FFP with MOA style crosshairs. That should suit this rifle much better and allow me to aim small and really cut the scope out of the variable. I always use my wheeler torque wrench when mounting a scope set at 18, so my scooe rings likely werent the issue before. I went to Cabelas yesterday and bought 6 additional types of ammo to test. There were still about 4 more types they offered but they were the bulk stuff, so I will test those later pending the results of this ammo. Once I get a decent zero, i will shoot groups with the cheaper ammo with the thread protector on and off and see if there is any difference, then proceed with ammo testing after that.

 

[srbecker58]

I have another question for everyone here. Why do I see some people replacing the 30moa rail with a 0? What is the purpose for that? Will I need to do that?

 

[Carriec]

IF you are shooting at extended ranges >100M you may benefit from the increased angle of the rail because without it your optic may not have enough elevation correction to get you on target. Some feel that is a limit for restricted ranges<100M but I haven't had a problem with it. Ruger has other rails if need one.

 

[straightshooter1]

I have another question for everyone here. Why do I see some people replacing the 30moa rail with a 0? What is the purpose for that? Will I need to do that?

As Carriec mentioned . . . it has to do with the limitations of the optic one is mounting on this gun and the distance(s) one is planning on shooting at most.

You most likely won't have replace the rail is you get an optic that has enough range in it's vertical so that you can shoot both short distances as well as long. Price of the optic would typically be a factor in this.

 

[srbecker58]

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This is the scope i plan to get. I have had good luck with their scopes with the exception of the 6x i originally had on this rifle, but i cant really 100% blame the optic. Any other recommendations at that price or lower that would better suit my need?

 

[straightshooter1]

AR-15 Scopes For Sale | Rifle Scopes | Optics

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www.primaryarms.com

This is the scope i plan to get. I have had good luck with their scopes with the exception of the 6x i originally had on this rifle, but i cant really 100% blame the optic. Any other recommendations at that price or lower that would better suit my need?

It shows 60 MOA of Elevation, so it should handle the 30 MOA rail, but with little or not room at the bottom without some shimming or adjustable rings like Burris' Signature XTR's

 

[srbecker58]

Okay. The previous scope I had on there only had 50 it looks like, so this one should be okay. If I can't get it zeroed, I will then contact Ruger for the zero MOA rail

 

[Booner1334]

AR-15 Scopes For Sale | Rifle Scopes | Optics

Shop our catalog of Rifle Scopes. Find AK 47, AR 308, & AR 15 scopes from Primary Arms, Trijicon, Vortex & more. Available in BDC, MOA, MIL, ACSS & more.

www.primaryarms.com

This is the scope i plan to get. I have had good luck with their scopes with the exception of the 6x i originally had on this rifle, but i cant really 100% blame the optic. Any other recommendations at that price or lower that would better suit my need?

This is the scope I originally purchased for my RPRR

Amazon.com : Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6-18x44 AO, SFP Riflescope - Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA) with Baseball Hat : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6-18x44 AO, SFP Riflescope - Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA) with Baseball Hat : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Price: $219.00

I have since upgraded the scope to another, more powerful (more magnification) Vortex as my 66 year old eyes had trouble seeing hits at 100 yards and beyond. It wasn't the scope's problem, I just needed more power than 18X.
I know nothing about Primary Arms scopes; they could be the hidden gems of the scope world. But they only have a 3 year warranty and a number of negative reviews on Amazon. This model from Vortex, on the other hand, is from a well-known manufacturer, the worst rating is 4 star, and it has a life-time guaranty. Oh, and it's less expensive that the one your looking at. And if you wanted to sell it, you'd probably get more money for it.

I'm not a Vortex fan boy, but I've been very happy with their scopes. From my experience, when it comes to buying an optic, buy quality. It's cheaper in the long run

 

[DownhillFromHere]

@srbecker58, I've only read a page or so of this thread, so I may touch on something already covered. But the thing I'd like to impart is, beginning precision shooters generally have no idea how "twitchy" .22s are. Any movements whatsoever during the trigger pull and follow-through is going to throw the shot. You've also been advised that, regardless of optics, ammo, etc., the RPRR is a $400 rifle. It does well for what it is, but it's built to hit that price point so there are compromises. But, based on my experience, you may well be underestimating the adverse impact of "poor" (it's relative - see below) trigger pull and follow-through.

I think I read that you haven't yet tried ammunition beyond bulk CCI of some flavor. You may see improvement with stepping up to something like SK Standard Plus or other brands in that price range. In my opinion, putting top-rung ammo like Lapua Midas+ or Eley Match in an RPRR is like running racing fuel in a Honda Civic - the platform isn;t built to take full advantage.

To elaborate on trigger pull and follow-through: I was shooting 100-300 rounds of .22 a week through a CZ 455 until last month, when the Vudoo arrived. Yes, the Vudoo is more accurate - but only if my shot break and follow-through are correctly executed. At 50 yards, if I dry-fire (which is ok with a Vudoo) and screw up even a little bit - and this is off a bipod and Gamechanger rear bag - I can SEE the crosshairs move when the trigger (set to 8 ounces) breaks and the hammer falls. It's the difference between a 0.3" group and a 0.7" group at 50 yards. It's been widely written here how a .22 bullet spends almost three times longer in the barrel than a centerfire round, so it's actually harder to break a proper .22 shot than a centerfire shot (other factors such as recoil being "equal").

I hope this helps provide a little perspective.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

This is the scope I originally purchased for my RPRR

Amazon.com : Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6-18x44 AO, SFP Riflescope - Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA) with Baseball Hat : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6-18x44 AO, SFP Riflescope - Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA) with Baseball Hat : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Price: $219.00

I have since upgraded the scope to another, more powerful (more magnification) Vortex as my 66 year old eyes had trouble seeing hits at 100 yards and beyond. It wasn't the scope's problem, I just needed more power than 18X.
I know nothing about Primary Arms scopes; they could be the hidden gems of the scope world. But they only have a 3 year warranty and a number of negative reviews on Amazon. This model from Vortex, on the other hand, is from a well-known manufacturer, the worst rating is 4 star, and it has a life-time guaranty. Oh, and it's less expensive that the one your looking at. And if you wanted to sell it, you'd probably get more money for it.

I'm not a Vortex fan boy, but I've been very happy with their scopes. From my experience, when it comes to buying an optic, buy quality. It's cheaper in the long run

@srbecker58, if you are looking for best quality in an entry-level scope, I'd like to steer you to Athlon. I put an Athlon Argos BTR on my nephew's RPRR; it's astoundingly clear for its price point. The Athlon Midas TAC is more expensive, but it punches WAY above its price point. I would strongly suggest you call (on the telephone; search "minimum advertised price" on the Hide to see why) @gr8fuldoug at CameralandNY to discuss your requirements. CameraLandNY is one of the Hide sponsors, and Doug is a super guy - tell him you heard about him here. I'm saying this as the owner of four Vortex scopes (two Razors and two Viper PSTs) - they're a much higher price point. If you're looking for the best budget scope, I think Athlon is hard to beat.

Also - it's vital to hold your reticle level. I have standard Vortex bubble levels on all my scopes. If I put the crosshair on a bullseye with the left edge of the bubble touching the left-center line, then cant the rifle so the right edge of the bubble touches the right center line, the crosshair will move over an inch at 50 yards.

EDIT: Uh, if you can't get a scope with a 30mm tube mounted on a 30MOA rail to zero at 50 yards, something is definitely wrong.

 

[srbecker58]

Thanks everyone. Your comments have been duly noted. As for your suggestions @DownhillFromHere , i will keep all that in mind as far as trigger control. I am by no means perfect with that nor will i ever be, however I can say i have good trigger control. I shoot a pellet gun in my back yard for training and do a lot of dry fire training with my pistol. Both of those should be helping. Pellet guns are much more finicky when it comes to gun holds, tigger pull, follow through and the like. The groups posted above are the worst groups i have ever shot from any gun at 50 yards, so something def wasnt right that day. Maybe a mixture of things such as a crappy scope, ammo choice and gun issues. Ill never know, but taking one variable out of the equation by replacing that scope is my first step. Ill shoot your guy a message though and see what he says in regards to scope options! Thank you!

 

[Sieg]

I will say when I first got my RPR it drove me crazy, but I trusted Ruger because of the guns I'd bought in the 70" and 80's. The manufacturing quality is far from what it used to be.

First issue was it wouldn't extract reliably so I reworked the extractor which helped but it still required deliberate quick pull on the bolt to not leave a casing laying on top of the magazine.

I reworked the stock trigger to 1lb 6ozs, though it still has a little initial creep. I tested all types and 100's of rounds of ammo, with and without suppressor and thread protector, action torques between 12 to 34 in lbs all at 50yds outdoors. I shoot CCi SV, SK Std+, SK Pistol Match, and Lapua Center-X, though I've also tested Eley Tenex, Federal Ultra Match, SK Pistol Match Special, and SK Rifle Match in the gun.

I also smoothed the irregularities on the bedding block and magazine mating surfaces. It consistently threw a flyer. I only used 5 or 10 shot magazines.

I finally called Ruger and said this is not a precision rifle and shouldn't be marketed as such. Per SOP they sent me an RA and I shipped the gun back. It came back with a replaced barrel and new bolt. The barrel was scratched in two places and the machining on the bolt appeared it had come loose in the fixturing during machining. But the accuracy/consistency has improved though the ejection is still an issue.

I haven't put enough rounds through it to thoroughly test it, but it shows promise now...…. I bought a Vudoo so I can blame myself for poor accuracy now.

Last target, note this was CCI SV shot over SK lube which once fouled produced decent groups, then Federal Ultra Match over the CCI lube which didn't seem to care.

Disclosure - My primary intention for the RPR was to convert it to a .17 Mach2 for controlling and explosion of digger squirrels in the orchard behind my house, basically an effective field tool. I gambled on the fact that someone would make a barrel for it due to the design. I ordered a barrel yesterday and should have it in a couple days.

Bottom line, if I wanted it to be a .22lr precision rimfire I think an aftermarket barrel is required. My first reasonably priced choice would probably be Green Mountain.

The functionality of the design is very good IMO, sadly the execution of the build falls short.

Hopefully Ruger can get a group of executives that will restore their brand reputation.

 

[srbecker58]

These Green Mountain barrels are seeming more and more enticing to me, but I need to take it one step at a time first. After a new scope, ammo testing and trying different torque settings and thread protector on/off, I can consider a barrel. I will surely keep everyone updated thought the process and I am grateful for everyone's help, opinions and direction! I have a lot of work ahead of me before I even come close to getting discouraged or giving up.

 

[srbecker58]

Still have NO CLUE what scope to look for though. I reached out to @gr8fuldoug and he is recommending an Athlon, others have recommended Athlon, Vortex, and Nikon. I personally really like my Primary Arms, but I would be stubborn if I didnt at least educate myself on my other options before buying.