Ruger Precision Rimfire

#801
My bro and I took our RPRRs to the silhouette range today and shot the 200-meter chickens. I have an ER SHAW barrel and custom compensatory on my rifle. His rifle is stock. We had no trouble dialing out to the chickens and hitting them. As long as your wind hold was correct hits were pretty much assured. Great fun.
 
#802
rimfire22lr said:
My bro and I took our RPRRs to the silhouette range today and shot the 200-meter chickens. I have an ER SHAW barrel and custom compensatory on my rifle. His rifle is stock. We had no trouble dialing out to the chickens and hitting them. As long as your wind hold was correct hits were pretty much assured. Great fun.
Click to expand...
I'm curious, how much elevation did you need for 200 meters?
 
#805
My dope says 7.1 mils (24.78 moa) for my RPRR to get to 200 yards from a 50 yard zero; I don't think the quality of the rifle has a whole lot to do with bullet drop other than a slight variance in muzzle velocity due to barrel manf. quality and/ or length. Accuracy is another story; I'm consistently able to hit 3 and 4" plates at 200 in various crosswinds. Is that great, not really, but its teaching me a lot about shooting and I'm having fun.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: gpkon66 and Stan628
#806
I've been purposely staying silent on this RPRR is great / garbage debate due to me being quite new to rimfire shooting for anything other than simply passing the time. However, I got the Ruger "precision" as cheaper alternative to practicing with my centerfire gun; it works pretty good for that.

It's a target rifle in my eyes, not a match gun. To my astonishment the rifle shoots pretty good so far despite my lack of knowledge, talent, and technique. I am getting an average of 3/4 minute at 50 yards with CCI SV and the accuracy seems to be improving as I learn more of the tricks of the trade. I see guys shooting locally, and posting groups on the "great equalizer" (the internet) that are legitimately 10 - 20 % better than what I'm getting; they have more invested in their optic alone than I do in my entire rig. To each their own. Is a vudoo a nice rifle, yup.

I still get a kick out of shooting a bunch and not having to sell a kidney when I get home in order to fund more components. I can afford a whole lot more ammo. since I bought the Ruger. When it's all said and done, I'm just-some-guy...
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jam9
#808
Stan628 said:
I'm curious, how much elevation did you need for 200 meters?
Click to expand...
Good question but elevation from what zero? I just mounted the scope on the rifle, zeroed it at 40 meters on the fly, then cranked it up until I was hitting the chickens at 200. I did not record anything because I knew that I would remove the scope from the RPRR when I got home. The gun and scope are not a permanent or even semi-permanent system.
 
#809
Called Ruger about mag problems .They sent me a new chassis fixed the problem .Extraction filed the extractor to increase the length of the hook. Using cci sv it takes 29 to 30 moa to get to 200 meters 47 moa to 300 meters . With a 50 meter zero . BUT THAT'S WITH WIND .
 
Last edited:
#812
It's was a while back .Can't remember it was a first gen gun. They shipped it right away .also receiver a extra extractor and spring for FREE. AROUND JUNE TIME FRAME .Did not send the gun back .
 
#813
mrt949 said:
It's was a while back .Can't remember it was a first gen gun. They shipped it right away .also receiver a extra extractor and spring for FREE. AROUND JUNE TIME FRAME .Did not send the gun back .
Click to expand...
Is it possible to measure the spec's / dimensions of the magwell and post them? It would be nice if people could tell if they have an older or "fixed" version of the chassis; it's not really possible to go by sale date due to the possibility of old stock on hand. I bought mine a couple of weeks ago, it could be a newer generation, or not.

I must say, I do not have any feeding issues or accuracy issues currently, but I ditched the 15rd mag right away and used Ruger factory 10 rounders. I also put a layer of aluminum tape in the front and rear face of the magwell just for good measure and tighten tolerances a tad.

Maybe post the dimensions of magwell front to back, and side to side.

Thank you.
 
#814
It might have something to do with the bedding block and the chassis .Stacking of tolerances .
All i know it solved my ISSUES LOL
 
#816
Hello all! Great info and work on this rifle! I am looking for the proper ring height for my RPRimfire. I am keepomg the stock 30 moa rail and putting a Vortex Diamondback 4-16x44 FFP on it. Anyone able to give best height of rings to get it close to barrel without touching? Thanks for any and all help!
Cheers!
 
#817
Pranavdc said:
Hello all! Great info and work on this rifle! I am looking for the proper ring height for my RPRimfire. I am keepomg the stock 30 moa rail and putting a Vortex Diamondback 4-16x44 FFP on it. Anyone able to give best height of rings to get it close to barrel without touching? Thanks for any and all help!
Cheers!
Click to expand...
I just Purchased the same with the one inch high rings by instruction of the manufacturer. I will Update on fit when the scope and rings arrive
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pranavdc
#818
Dev L said:
I have done quite a bit of testing with aluminum tape and aluminum sheet metal shimming the mags, magwell, and other parts and came to several conclusions. In short, all Ruger Precision rimfire polymer chassis have defective mag wells that are too long, specifically, they have too much clearance at the front of the magwell. I also think this is 90% of the problem with all Ruger Precision Rimfire accuracy and reliability issues and that Ruger must be aware of yhe issue but does not want to fix it. I will exlain in detail below.

I found that due to the way the rounds exit the 10-22 magazine, they are off center to the left and low and point up and right as they leave the mag. This requires very specific positioning fore/aft of the magazine relative to the chamber so the bullets hit the center of the chamber. Too close and the bullet tips get shaved going in at the lip of the chamber and rear face of the barrel or jam before they can enter the chamber. A little further back and the ogive gets scraped. A bit further back (fully to the rear of the magwell where function is still 100%) everything runs smooth. If it were even further to the rear, the bullet would hit wide and high and also cause problems. Ruger knows this because they have built a bazillion Ruger 10-22s that use the magzine design. For the Ruger Precision Rimfire, fully rearward where mag release function is still 100% is where the mags are intended to be placed and the factory rear of the magwell seems positioned correctly relative to the rear block, which makes sense since that block bolts to the reciever and hold the magazine release parts and the parts are made of metal which can be easilly machined to move things to correct positional issues during prototyping before manufacture.

I also found that the way the magazine locks up, it requires a very specific fore/aft mag well size. The front of the mag needs to fit in a plastic rounded notch at the front of the magwell which is part of the chasis and there needs to be adequate clearance for the rear mag release where the pin locks in to press the mag from the rear and get the front mag button to engage the front of the magwell. If the magwell is to small fore/aft the mag either wont lock in because the front button on the mag wont clear the front notch or it wont drop free easily and disengage the rear pin of the magazine. A ploymer part requires a mold change to fix tolerance issues and polymer parts are made in large batches to keep prices down. Once you make a batch of polymer chasis, you dont want to throw them away but you also have no machining to do that you can adjust to fix tolerances.

The magazines require a small enough magwell to hold the magazine body and not allow the mags to rock fore/aft, but a very tiny amount of rocking is required to get the magazines to lock in and drop free due to mag design. With too much fore/aft magwell size, the front metal button on the magazine can slip off the polymer ledge in the magwell and get stuck. Pointing the feedlups down. This causes either the bullets to jam in below the chamber which will stop your bolt travel cold, or scrapes the hell out of the bullet tips if it does manage to clear. Unfortunately, any rearward tug on the BX15 mags causes the mags to point down and the front button to slip off the ledge. It then can get stuck pointed down. On some mags and magwells, you may notice the mag freely rocks fore/aft but wont stick in either position. With other mags and magwells, you can make the magazine stick rocked forward or stick rocked rearward. In the BX15 this is obvious as you can grab the mag and rock it easily. Its a bit tougher to do with a BX1. The natural mag insertion technique of a BX15 will have you tend to insert and sort of rock back at the bottom like an AK mag. You must then be sure the mag is pushed forward at the bottom and feed lips point up to get correct positioning. The BX1 insertion tends to make you push up at the middle or front of the mag and puts the mag in the correct orientation. You can still reach up in there and pull the nose down by pulling back and down on the front edge of the magazine but it requires a deliberate attempt to do it.

The BX15 mags are also shorter than the BX1 mags. Both the length of protrusion of the metal rear pin and front button of mag as well as the thickness of the magazine polymer body are less for the BX15 than the BX1. The BX1 uses a screw to position the front button. I found it works best when the flange behind the button is flush with the mag body. This requires placing a very thin washer shim for that bolt to rest against to get the front button to protrude more. This shim requires an ID of .340" or more and OD of .435" or less thickness in the 30 to 60 thou range to get that flange flush on a current production BX1 mag. This helps keep the front button engaged on the lip of the rounded notch at the front of the magwell. Unfortunately, BX15 mags have the feed lips, front button, and rear pin as one solid metal unit that cannot be adjusted. It is also the mag that comes with the gun so the magwell should be most reliable with a BX15, but of course it is not.

My first experiment was to shim the rear of the magwell to push the mags forward so they would not rock and would catch the front notch of the magwell, since you cant add material to the front of the whole mag body without covering the front button, you cant build up the front of the magwell notch, and you cant extend the front button to catch the lip on the BX15. Pushing the mag forward resulted in 100% lock up, propper feed lip orientation and no mag rocking, and inserting mags was easy and they dropped free when relesased. Unfortunately, the magazine was too close to the chamber. It jammed and either would not function at all or mangled the bullets horribly as they were chambered.

Next, I shimmed the front of the magwell to push the magazine to the rear. This exacerbated the front magazine button falling off the ledge at the front of the magwell, but the positioning was ideal for feeding if the magzine was held to keep the feed lips pointed up. No damage what so ever. Feeding was ultra smooth.

I also did various combinations of shimming mags at the front or back to take up space. I have come across one shimming technique on the BX15 that works OK to put the magazine in a position that stops rocking, causes minimal bullet damage, holds at the front lip of the magwell, and allows easy insertion and drop free of the magazine. It involves building up a bar of material above and flush with the front button at the front of the magazine and another bar down from the rear horizontal speed bump ledge that protrudes at the rear of the BX15. I will test it more and try making a JB weld version if the aluminum tape version pans out. I still get some bullet damage but it is minimal. If I move the mag more rearward, it slips off the magwell button ledge.

All of these issues would go away if the front wall of the magazine well was just moved about 1mm or so further to the rear. I think this is the biggest reason that people get flyers, have reliability issues, etc. Its not that the chassis has flex... it is that EVERY SINGLE RPR rimfire has a magwell that is out of spec with the front wall positioned too far forward! I also think Ruger is well aware of this.

If you pull off your reciever and look at the magwell from the top, you will see the front wall intersects a circular hole that appears to not be for anything other than a witness mark to see where the magwell is located relative to that hole. The front magwall intersects toward its front edge. The front mag wall should be pushed back to where it is flush with the middle of that round hole or possibly even slightly further.

I think Ruger should do a nationwide recall and give propper spec chassis to every RPR rimfire owner. Just a bare chasis where we can swap the buttstock, action, grip, etc. Should be sent to everyone who provides a serial number. I think it is bullshit Ruger has foisted an obviously out of spec part on the American public and expects us to send in the whole rifle and hope for the best, while the 100% biggest problem with all the rifles is CLEARLY a defective polymer part spec that they dont want to spend the money to fix because it requires a complete replacement of the chasis.

Will edit and continue later....
Click to expand...

It’s blatantly obvious. How Ruger let this rifle go out like this is beyond me. Single feeding works but it’s time consuming and you break your position. Excellent post.
 
#819
WuYen said:
It’s blatantly obvious. How Ruger let this rifle go out like this is beyond me. Single feeding works but it’s time consuming and you break your position. Excellent post.
Click to expand...
You have to keep in mind Ruger is using the same polymer stocks in all three rimfire version of their rifles (.17, .22LR and .22 Magnum). This saves on production costs, and we all know that that Ruger as well as any other wepons manufacturer are expected at the end of the quarter to turn a profit. If you know this when you purchase the rifle its short comings are not as much of a surprise.

I have a 10/22 housed in a Nordic Component AR-22 chassis. I tossed the stock for my RAR if favor of the MDT LSS-22 and haven't regretted the decision. I'm ever so slowly getting the RPRR set up to my likings.It is all about what shooting and enjoying what you shoot.
 
#821
Great video Elfster. It is clear that accuracy of the 22lr is falling apart at 300 yds; I am really curious how a "better" / more expensive gun shooting similar ammo. would perform at that distance.
 
#823
I've learned a lot reading this thread. I love this little rifle. There are people here far more scientific than I am. I'd like to share my experience with my RPR

I'm shooting golf balls at 220yds consistently. Depending on wind it may take 2-4 shots as I dance just around it.
At 190yds I'm just breaking clay pigeon pieces smaller and smaller until I can't see them anymore.

And I've done NOTHING to the rifle. I purchased it late November.
Stock magazine. (I intend to get a 10 round one.)
I've NOT bedded the action, but I'm going to.
And I've committed the most evil of all .22 sins.... I'm using HV ammo! noes!!!!
And I'm not even using a bag in the rear, just my shoulder. (I've since purchased a monopod for Xmas, and it feels like cheating.)
I bore snake it... when I feel like it. I'm prbly over 2000 rounds easily.

I don't know if I've got the mystical unicorn edition, but it works. I'm zeroed for 100yds. I used 1.5mil hold under for 50yds and will hit dum dum lollypops all day.

This is all before I start testing with expensive ammo. Right now its so freaking cold and windy its pointless. But I will post a 6x5 when it gets warmer. I'm looking for consistency 100yds and beyond. I've had ammo at 50yds look like one hole, and fall apart at 100yds like it was thrown by my grandmother...with her off hand. I really don't care about 50yd groupings if I intend to always shoot further, but I test anyway.

Current front runner ammo:
CCI Mini-Mag High Velocity 22 Long Rifle Ammo 40 Grain Copper Plated Round Nose (1235 fps)

But... But Gorilla... the speed of sound .... the sonic barrier..... copper.... Armageddon!
Yes, yes I know. This is the ammo of Satan. I'm dealing in the black arts, and this is a sure fire way for my cat to get pregnant. Even though I don't own a cat! But its consistent at longer ranges.

Current optic:
Athlon Optics , Talos 6-24 x 50 Second Focal Plane (SFP) 1" Tube, Illuminated ATMR1 MIL Reticle

But.. but.. Gorilla, you could have got a much better <insert brand here> optic....
I have two kids, one in college. I'm lucky I can afford the electricity to post this message! This scope is fabulous and makes wind adjustments a dream.

All that said, I think most of you guys are nuts, and I love it! You take it to a whole new level, and make me want to as well. You are all like enablers of accuracy. I might even write down the humidity levels in my range book from now on. I'm actually really excited to bed teh action and change the mag.

I'm also going to see if my son can get a video of us hitting the golf balls at 220. We do this all the time, every time we go to the range.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 10ring1 and jrassy
#824
Oh, and as far as ejection issues... yeah... I call that Winchester ammo! Its the ONLY one that has so far given me ejection issues. Multiple kinds of Winchester ammo! I can safely say I won't be buying any more.
 
#825
kgc54 said:
You have to keep in mind Ruger is using the same polymer stocks in all three rimfire version of their rifles (.17, .22LR and .22 Magnum). This saves on production costs, and we all know that that Ruger as well as any other wepons manufacturer are expected at the end of the quarter to turn a profit. If you know this when you purchase the rifle its short comings are not as much of a surprise.

I have a 10/22 housed in a Nordic Component AR-22 chassis. I tossed the stock for my RAR if favor of the MDT LSS-22 and haven't regretted the decision. I'm ever so slowly getting the RPRR set up to my likings.It is all about what shooting and enjoying what you shoot.
Click to expand...

It’s a decent 2moa “Precision “ plinker. My semi auto $99 marlin 795 outshoots this thing all day long and isn’t picky on ammo. For the price it’s accuracy is deplorable lol it’s an ergonomic plinker but that’s about it. If aluminum tape helps mine out I’ll feel better, but if I could do it again, I’d get a CZ.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RandomWAguy
#826
to the guys that have bought these rifle and now feel like they want to throw them in the trash, don't get too discouraged. in my experience you can get them to shoot will however you have to be willing to put on a new barrel and do some modifications. I think we were all excited hoping this rifle would be like its big brother and we were all a little let down. There is hope I think for the future.
 
#827
WuYen said:
It’s a decent 2moa “Precision “ plinker. My semi auto $99 marlin 795 outshoots this thing all day long and isn’t picky on ammo. For the price it’s accuracy is deplorable lol it’s an ergonomic plinker but that’s about it. If aluminum tape helps mine out I’ll feel better, but if I could do it again, I’d get a CZ.
Click to expand...
I paid $369. for my RPRR and with a little aluminum tape and some basic tinkering it consistently shoots MOA out to 100 yds with .06 cent per round CCI SV ammunition; what more should I hope for? While I agree this isn't a perfect rifle, it's a contender for under $400. How much would you have in a CZ, plus a chassis, plus barrel threading, plus an adjustable trigger? You'd have yourself a nice rifle if you modded a stock CZ in this manner but it would cost a lot more than $369.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: mrt949, Stan628, Booner1334 and 2 others
#829
I too have had what I consider to be great success with my RPRR .22LR shooting CCI SV. I'm a shaky old man with COPD, yet I get cold bore hits on 6" steel @ 250yds shooting in the sitting position with a tall Harris bipod and unsupported rear.

IMO, Ruger limited the capability of this little gem by only offering it with a standard 1:16 barrel. I feel that if it had a 1:14 or even 1:12 twist the pill would spin enough faster to remain stable and be more accurate for longer range shooting. I have a 10/22 with a 1:9 barrel for shooting the Aguilla 60gr SSS rounds, and with the CCI SV ammo it drills bug holes @ 100yds, so I believe that a 1:12 on the RPRR would be awesome.

FWIW, I chronographed the CCI SV that is advertised @ 1070fps, and out of my RPRR it's running @ 1091fps.
 
#830
Old_Longhair said:
FWIW, I chronographed the CCI SV that is advertised @ 1070fps, and out of my RPRR it's running @ 1091fps.
Click to expand...

Out of my RPRR with a Shaw barrel, I was getting the same MV's ( 10 shot averages ranging from 1093 to 1099 with ES's running 21 to 54) and with the factory barrel I was getting averages around 1055 to 1060 fps. (Using Magnetospeed chrono)
 
#831
Just-some-guy said:
I paid $369. for my RPRR and with a little aluminum tape and some basic tinkering it consistently shoots MOA out to 100 yds with .06 cent per round CCI SV ammunition; what more should I hope for? While I agree this isn't a perfect rifle, it's a contender for under $400. How much would you have in a CZ, plus a chassis, plus barrel threading, plus an adjustable trigger? You'd have yourself a nice rifle if you modded a stock CZ in this manner but it would cost a lot more than $369.
Click to expand...

Consistent MOA out to 100 huh? Well, I’m not the only one with bad out of the box accuracy. Read this thread and it’s pretty obvious that unless you happen to get a good one they are generally 2moa or more guns, not that big of a deal but a CZ out of the box would shoot lights out. Add the cost of a barrel to the rprr, and time modding (fixing Ruger shortcuts) then I stand with rather getting a CZ to start. Who needs an adjustable trigger if it’s good to start (CZ), and there are threaded options as well. Chassis are for cool kid points as any decent stock works just fine, just my 2 cents.
 
#832
WuYen said:
Consistent MOA out to 100 huh? Well, I’m not the only one with bad out of the box accuracy. Read this thread and it’s pretty obvious that unless you happen to get a good one they are generally 2moa or more guns, not that big of a deal but a CZ out of the box would shoot lights out. Add the cost of a barrel to the rprr, and time modding (fixing Ruger shortcuts) then I stand with rather getting a CZ to start. Who needs an adjustable trigger if it’s good to start (CZ), and there are threaded options as well. Chassis are for cool kid points as any decent stock works just fine, just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Spend an hour with it and it will be a consistent 1 moa gun or better. The main issues are easily resolved with less then $10 in mods and a couple 10 round clips which you would probably buy regardless of the gun purchased.

I for one enjoy "tinkering" with a rifle and making it my own. I am also extremely happy with my purchase considering its price. I'm only 400 rounds into the rifle and it is still improving on accuracy, and the only issue I am still having is just an extraction issue maybe 1/20 rounds where it will flip around and stay in the chamber. But I'm still adjusting the extractor and believe I will get that issue resolved on my next adjustment.

If you are having issues with your accuracy please check out RPRim mods thread. If you have not added the ac aluminum tape I would strongly suggest that first. I would be happy to mail you some since I have a full roll sitting on my reloading bench with no current use. The next most significant mod to improve accuracy was switching to the 10 round mag and adjusting the spring tension down.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Just-some-guy
#833
Maxim0 said:
Spend an hour with it and it will be a consistent 1 moa gun or better. The main issues are easily resolved with less then $10 in mods and a couple 10 round clips which you would probably buy regardless of the gun purchased.

I for one enjoy "tinkering" with a rifle and making it my own. I am also extremely happy with my purchase considering its price. I'm only 400 rounds into the rifle and it is still improving on accuracy, and the only issue I am still having is just an extraction issue maybe 1/20 rounds where it will flip around and stay in the chamber. But I'm still adjusting the extractor and believe I will get that issue resolved on my next adjustment.

If you are having issues with your accuracy please check out RPRim mods thread. If you have not added the ac aluminum tape I would strongly suggest that first. I would be happy to mail you some since I have a full roll sitting on my reloading bench with no current use. The next most significant mod to improve accuracy was switching to the 10 round mag and adjusting the spring tension down.
Click to expand...

I have to agree; the rifle is lots of fun to work on. Would I like an aluminum chassis; sure. For the money it's well worth the effort to tune it up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Just-some-guy and Maxim0
#834
kgc54 said:
I have to agree; the rifle is lots of fun to work on. Would I like an aluminum chassis; sure. For the money it's well worth the effort to tune it up.
Click to expand...

Yes imo the flex in the chassis is the biggest weakness. Definitely have to be more gentle shooting it then the long action calibers.
 
#835
I am looking forward to increased aftermarket support for this rifle in the future. Once it's more like the 10/22 and you can source all the bits to enhance its performance easily and somewhat cheaply I think the popularity of this rifle will greatly increase as will its accuracy potential. For many people spending upwards of $2500. dollars on a 22 is just not practical.
 
#836
Just-some-guy said:
I am looking forward to increased aftermarket support for this rifle in the future. Once it's more like the 10/22 and you can source all the bits to enhance its performance easily and somewhat cheaply I think the popularity of this rifle will greatly increase as will its accuracy potential. For many people spending upwards of $2500. dollars on a 22 is just not practical.
Click to expand...
chassis and trigger will make me happy
 
#838
So I've just recently developed the "weak ejection" issue with my rifle; it started out new with decent case ejection and it got worse and worse. As of now after about 5 - 600 rds fired, the cases fail to eject and plop onto the top of the unfired cartridges in the magazine. This happens about 2 out of 3 times even when I am working the bolt vigorously. I've seen somewhere that the problem is that the extractor / ejector spring clip (part # 29) weakens over time; the recommendation was to just "bend the clip" back. Well, I tried to bend this thing back and it did nothing to improve my issue. Upon removing this part and inspecting it I have to admit it is a cheaply made component. I called Ruger Customer Service and they were pleasant to deal with but had no solution other than to send me another Ejector / Extractor Spring Clip free of charge. I told them that this is a known problem and the woman said they have no record of it so far.

So moving forward I am going to experiment with the whole "bending the clip" thing until the new part gets here. Like I have said earlier, I look forward to when companies begin to offer aftermarket replacements for all of the "shortcomings" of this rifle. Overall, I still feel it is a decent starter platform that has potential to be an accurate shooter, but it does need tinkering and upgrading in it's current state of delivery to get it to where most of this community would be happy with its performance.
 
#839
Over on the "Rimfire Central" forum, a guy recently posted a video of his extraction problems. His boltface had a little ridge in it that caused his ejector spring clip to hang up on. If he pushed the spring clip off of the ridge, ejection worked fine. Do you have a similar problem?
 
#840
Upon closer inspection I came to a conclusion that the issue with my rifle is not the spring ejector clip, it is the "shark fin" looking part that is held in with the push pin inside the removable bedding block (part # 54). This is the stationary part that kicks the casing out as the bolt is pulled all the way to the rear. The spent case is grabbed by the extractor and held into place on the bolt face by the ejector spring (spring clip); the spent case stays in this position on the bolt face as the bolt is pulled rearward, near the end of the bolts travel the stationary "shark fin" kicks the case out from under spring tension and out the ejection port.

Due to excessive slop, the "shark fin" was being pushed to the left side and missing the rim of the spent case entirely at the end of the bolts cycle, thus, no case ejection. I don't know what caused this to occur as the rifle used to eject reasonably well, then got weaker, and weaker, then stopped ejecting. I am wondering if maybe my "shark fin" has a tip broken off, but I cannot tell by comparing only to pictures and it doesn't look like it has broken.

So my "fix" was to shim the shark fin in the bedding block so it is pressed to the right side of the block and drags against the shoulder on the bottom of the bolt; this keeps the shark fin in the correct position to eject a spent case.

After the realization that my rifle stopped ejecting after being so new (5 or 6 hundred rounds) I am falling off of the Ruger Prec. Rimfire bandwagon. A customer should have to do all of this re-engineering to make a two month old rifle work. I don't mind doing mod's to tweak and improve performance but am not happy about having to fix things that are design and engineering problems from the factory.
 
#841
Ruger 10/22's ALWAYS extracts (the cartridge is forced out of the chamber by the expanding gases pushing the bolt back and cocking the gun) as this is what cycles the action. The problem is that the "extractor" does not hold he case so the cartridge can be pivoted out of the action when the case "hits" the ejector. In my experience the problem can be easily fixed by purchasing a hardened "extractor" that will not wear causing the jams.
 
#844
Jmp1973 said:
Long time lurker, first time poster on this thread.

I have an RPRR that also suffers from magazine induced bullet mutilation (mostly shaved lead). I've tried many different magazines, cycling through the shells to examine the effect on the bullets. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to the issue. I've done some tape bedding, etc. I also use a 3D printed single shot sled and thst seems to help a little with consistency and accuracy. I think it desperately needs an aluminum chassis. (MDT, are you listening??) I've put the gun on the back burner for now while I play with my new Tikka T1x and wait for an aluminum chassis to drop that addresses the issues.

I did stumble upon something that may be a fix, though. As most of you know, the high capacity 10/22 mags are illegal up in Canada because they can be used on the Charger pistol. So Canadians are working on magwell adapters to use other branded mags. Most of them are 3D printed, which would allow for spec changes to account for the out of spec polymer stock we're dealing with on the RPRR. Here's one example (I saw another but can't find it at the moment)...I may order one on backorder just to see how they run.

https://spectreballistics.com/1022/51-ruger-1022-magazine-adapter.html

Anyway, just an idea... Thought I would throw it out here and then go back to lurk mode.
Click to expand...

Hey Jmp, what province in Canada do you reside?
 
#846
Another great video; covers one of the main issues that I've been having to a "T". Thanks for all of your R & D and videography.

However, I've recently somewhat stopped caring about the "best accuracy" of my RPRR since it has almost stopped ejecting spent cases entirely. The way my rifle currently ejects, I might as well get a sled and just make it a single shot...
 
  • Like
Reactions: elfster1234
#850
Could use some help please. Using a new Bore Tech bore guide, I sliced the plastic cover on my Dewey rod pretty good on the (ejector?) that sticks up out of the magazine latch assembly. Sighting through the receiver toward the breech I can see why that happened but am trying to figure out a way around it other than removing the stock. Ideas?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

sam4886
Ruger american mini ranch
Replies
5
Views
187
John?
J
D
Getting started in rimfire PRS - What rife?
Replies
45
Views
1K
LR1845
L
jbell
Extremely light but hyper accurate 22lr rifle
Replies
89
Views
3K
MarkCZ
M
Cody S
getting into prs rimfire, Tips?
Replies
39
Views
1K
Jefe's Dope
Jefe's Dope
C
Erratic performance
Replies
33
Views
1K
cliffy110
C
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts