I agree out of the box accuracy could be better for the term precision. My gun didn't shoot too bad in stock form. I have done work to the gun in every aspect addressing all of the known issues. Right now I've got about $700 into the rifle. If I want better accuracy I think I'd have to buy a much more expensive rifle. I'm just throwing it out there, either some patience and a little work, you can get these rifles to shoot well. Personally I enjoy tinkering with my own rifles and getting them to shoot well.
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Ruger Precision Rimfire
- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
It's been 10 months since the release of the RPRr and while I have seen a good group or two posted here and there I've never seen anybody post a 6x5 target yet of any kind. I'd really like to see a few 6x5 targets posted up by those who have rifles shooting 1moa or better. I may revisit the RPRr someday if Ruger can ever get it shooting like the name implies. 10 months out there must be a bunch or rifles that are ready.
Come on guys show us those 6x5's at 50 and 100y.
Come on guys show us those 6x5's at 50 and 100y.
I have a RPR 22. I will pull out some of my targets from the past. It's nothing special but will show multiple groups on a single piece of paper, not cherry picked. My minimum number of 5 shot groups is 3 and that will only be because I don't have enough ammo to do 5. 5 is normally the minimum if I am trying to test the ammo in two rifles. My preferred way and the way 95% of my targets are is 10, 5-shot groups. IMO, this is the only true way to test gun and ammo accuracy; shoot 50 rounds on the same day. But you know what they say, opinions are like assholes and this is my asshole opinion. 
There is a reason for the 6x5 format. That reason is to show consistency. Accuracy isn't accuracy if it only happens occasionally. For a rifle to claim any degree of accuracy it needs to be the norm, not the occasional or even the average for that matter. We share information on forums get the benefit of others experience. Sharing good/accurate information and experience is a benefit to all of us. Sharing bad/inaccurate information is a disservice to all of us.
Watch this video for your 6x5 with cci sv, and another 3x5 right after that with ultra match with a suppressor..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6uV4AvaZMA&index=4&list=PLCyPEnjRX7eYaVkNuN2wRMEQUpIsyHVP1&t
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6uV4AvaZMA&index=4&list=PLCyPEnjRX7eYaVkNuN2wRMEQUpIsyHVP1&t
At least with my rpr 22lr, the 10round flush mags fit and function by far better than the 15round that came with the rifle. Very little wobble and much more consistent stripping of the round from the magazine. I hooked up with some clear 10round flush mags for $20
As promised here are a few targets from my Ruger PR. Like I said, nothing special. Which is why I included the knife. I also included a photo of all my targets I have kept, not all I have shot. 75% of those have 50 rounds on a plate.
I also included a photo of all my targets I have kept, not all I have shot. 75% of those have 50 rounds on a plate.
Hey guys
I posted up a target in the 6x5 thread earlier in the month. I think it's a great standard format for targets and think that there are probably a few targets out there that are much better than my posting. Link below
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/6x5-thread-v3-0.6253073/page-4#post-7266290
Thanks. I am sure there are better targets out there, as this was an average card. I need to push mine out to 100 on a 6x5 but that will have to wait until after deer season.
I figured I would add my data point to this thread. I shot my RPRR today for the first time. I spent 7 hours behind it on a concrete bench. I used the UTG Leapers Recon bipod and a rear bean bag. Scope was an SWFA SS 12x42 MIL/MIL. I chronographed every shot with a Magnetospeed V3 mounted to the handgaurd not the barrel.
I fired 64 groups with various ammunition, all at 50 yards. Most were 5-shot groups, some were 10-shot. I fired 10 fouling shots between ammos, and cleaned the barrel a few times during the day. I gathered a lot of data.
First, my rifle functioned flawlessly. Perfect clambering - no bullet damage, extraction, and powerful, ejection. Trigger was fine, I did not adjust it. I fired groups with each ammo, with the thread protector, a titanium muzzle break, and exposed threads. The gun shoots best with the muzzle threads exposed.
Accuracy: This is a 1.8MOA rifle with mid-grade ammo. That is fine for what I paid,$400. Factory barrel, sporting chamber, nuff said. The platform is brilliant. It just is. Ergonomic, balanced with a scope on it, trigger is fine for PRS and can be improved, the rail is good quality, as is the handguard. I did the aluminum tape bedding before shooting the rifle because my block was literally falling out of the chassis. But the bedding worked and the gun was not throwing wild flyers. Very low shots showed up on the chronograph readings as slow rounds as expected.
I like it. I ordered the ER SHAW match barrel.
I fired 64 groups with various ammunition, all at 50 yards. Most were 5-shot groups, some were 10-shot. I fired 10 fouling shots between ammos, and cleaned the barrel a few times during the day. I gathered a lot of data.
First, my rifle functioned flawlessly. Perfect clambering - no bullet damage, extraction, and powerful, ejection. Trigger was fine, I did not adjust it. I fired groups with each ammo, with the thread protector, a titanium muzzle break, and exposed threads. The gun shoots best with the muzzle threads exposed.
Accuracy: This is a 1.8MOA rifle with mid-grade ammo. That is fine for what I paid,$400. Factory barrel, sporting chamber, nuff said. The platform is brilliant. It just is. Ergonomic, balanced with a scope on it, trigger is fine for PRS and can be improved, the rail is good quality, as is the handguard. I did the aluminum tape bedding before shooting the rifle because my block was literally falling out of the chassis. But the bedding worked and the gun was not throwing wild flyers. Very low shots showed up on the chronograph readings as slow rounds as expected.
I like it. I ordered the ER SHAW match barrel.
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Don't take this the wrong way but you couldn't have like it to much since you bought a Shaw aftermarket barrel?
Hmmm??? I wonder is one can say it's legitimate that the RPRF without a barrel is still worth the $360-$400???
Having put a ER Shaw barrel on mine making it $610 out of pocket rifle. Still a pretty good value, I feel.
Oh, and I've now got a spar barrel that's not all that bad of a barrel.
Having put a ER Shaw barrel on mine making it $610 out of pocket rifle. Still a pretty good value, I feel.
Oh, and I've now got a spar barrel that's not all that bad of a barrel.
I got the GM barrel for the same reason the rifke has potentialHmmm??? I wonder is one can say it's legitimate that the RPRF without a barrel is still worth the $360-$400???
Having put a ER Shaw barrel on mine making it $610 out of pocket rifle. Still a pretty good value, I feel.
Oh, and I've now got a spar barrel that's not all that bad of a barrel.
I have never had an extraction issue with either of my Rugers. I have the Precision Rimfire and the American Rimfire. If you guys think it would help I can pull the bolts on both, take some photos of what I have for comparison?
I would appreciate pictures. Put a round in it so I can see how much your spring engages. Also how rough your surfaces is.
I like it fine. I was never expecting a factory barrel with sport chamber on a $400 rifle to shoot MOA or better. I bought the gun for the platform and ergonomics. This rifle is designed to be, and I believe it will be, the 10/22 of bolt-action rimfires. The barrel comes off more easily than a 10/22. Triggers will be easy to develop and Timney has one almost ready. GM, ERSHAW, WHISTLEPIG already make barrels. The function was flawless and that is what I was looking for primarily. Barrel performed as expected, I did not get lucky. No big deal. Barrels, chassises, triggers, scope rails, etc will be supplied as nauseum by the aftermarket. I will be like a pig in shinola kitting out a couple of these in the years to come. I enjoy such foolishness.
Thanks for the pictures. I adjusted my spring and touched up my extractor. Seems to work fine now.
rimfire22lr, the Ruger PR is a great platform to build off of. It does have a lot going for it. I like mine and I like shooting it.
John_Vinblad, glad the photos helped and you got the Ruger functioning as it should.
John_Vinblad, glad the photos helped and you got the Ruger functioning as it should.
Hmm, there's an option. I got my first 17HMR a few days ago. Maybe I can convert my Ruger to the 17HMR??
I have a 16” barrel on order. Going to go from about 38-40oz to 16-18oz for the barrel for my boys gun. AFAIK barrels are still being made and not out in the wild.
A Mach 2 barrel for the RPR would be nice. If my boys gun shoots at least MOA at 50 yards I might talk to whistlepig (Louis) and are about a Mach 2 barrel. I have one on my 455 and it’s as accurate as my 17hmr varmint OEM barrel, which for me means plenty accurate for hunting
I have two whistlepig lightweight 10/22 barrels. They are not match chambered. They are great but they are not MOA barrels.
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I was on the whistlepig website and didn't see any 17hmr barrels. Probably never work in the Ruger PR because of magazine issue.
After making adjustments to the extractor spring I still would have occasional stove piping and week ejection. After looking at this I starting taking a closer look with a magnifying glass to try and understand why so many of us are having this kind of issue. So, with I put a case into the bolt face I noticed that it was being held there rather loose by the spring. So, I bent the spring in a little more and sure enough, it held the case much firmer. But then the case wasn't getting ejected from the bolt at all. So I focused my magnifying glass (need a magnifying glass to help these old eyes) on the ejector in the magazine assembly. And sure enough, the ejector was rather loose and hardly engaging the base of the case. So, I pulled the magazine assembly out and bent the ejector in and reassembled it all. Ejection work much better, BUT . . . I had bent the ejector a little too much and it was rubbing on the bolt making the bolt not slide smoothly. On making further adjustment to the ejector so that it's really close to the bolt but not rubbing, it's now ejecting quite well. But, I haven't tested it at the range yet to see it this is truly a fix during live fire conditions. Will be going out soon for a good test and see if I've eliminated the problem.
Note too, I'v taking all the play out of the magazine assembly putting polyethylene tape (the kind used for drawer slides) in the sides so that it seats firmly in the stock. I think this may also be a factor in the ejection issue since the ejector is part of that assembly.
AFAIK he only makes 17mach 2 barrels, which based on the 22lr case necked down to 0.17. Go over to the 17 mach2 section on RFC if you want to know more about it but they feed from 22lr magazines just fine.
Straightshooter1,
Although I have had zero issues with my Ruger PR, I did have ejection issues with my Steyr Zephyr II. Just saying that any gun can have issues so don't feel discouraged. As a matter of fact right now my Savage MK II is having problems extracting and with all brands of ammo. And it doesn't get shot a lot. If you need better or more photos let me know, I'd be happy to help out.
Although I have had zero issues with my Ruger PR, I did have ejection issues with my Steyr Zephyr II. Just saying that any gun can have issues so don't feel discouraged. As a matter of fact right now my Savage MK II is having problems extracting and with all brands of ammo. And it doesn't get shot a lot. If you need better or more photos let me know, I'd be happy to help out.
Was able to get out today and fired off 140 rounds of various ammo . . . and no ejection problems. Well . . . except for once when I was doing a rapid cycle and didn't pull the bolt all the way back. So apparently, my little fix has done the trick and am much happier with the way it's ejecting now. Though it's still not a strong ejection, it's at least consistent.
I got out to the silhouette range today. I fired CCI SV and some British military surplus Eley from the 1960s. I used an SWFA SS 12x42 scope. I use a 50-yard zero. I used a Magnetospeed V3. I recorded the following data.
RPRR, factory barrel with titanium compensator.
CCI SV- 1005 average, 14.0 SD.
ELEY- 1055 average, 10.2 SD.
100 meters +2.5 MILS
200 meters +8.4/8.5 MILS
300 meters +16.0 MILS with the ELEY
Fantastic fun.
RPRR, factory barrel with titanium compensator.
CCI SV- 1005 average, 14.0 SD.
ELEY- 1055 average, 10.2 SD.
100 meters +2.5 MILS
200 meters +8.4/8.5 MILS
300 meters +16.0 MILS with the ELEY
Fantastic fun.
Try puttinmg one or two strips of tape on the botton of part #57. This will lift the ejector and should solve your problem.
That's a good idea.
In my case, the ejector was and is high enough, but was too far off to the side where it would barely make contact with the casing. And when giving that configuration with the looseness of the Magazine Latch Assembly, I can see why there would be inconsistency with proper ejection.
First post to the forum; probably not the rightplace for it.
I picked up a RPRR yesterday. I’ve have a RPR that I’ve been shooting for a couple years now.
First thing I did when I got home was tear apart the rifle. I picked up a Timney trigger for this rifle as it’s similar to what I have on my RPR.
It’s not a drop in mod as most of you know. I’ve seen people mod the Timney trigger for this platform. Here is my take on it.
As you can see the RPR and RPRR triggers are identical with the exception of some additional machining to get it to fit to the RPRR receiver.
Stock RPR Trigger
Stock RPRR Trigger
Side by side, RPRR on the Left and RPR on the right
I have a small CNC in my garage. I was originally going to do this on the manual mill but I thought I would just do a quick CNC program.
The first step was to strip down the safety mechanism that protruded from the side of the trigger
Then, onto the mill. It took three trips to get it right. In then end it came out OK and if I have to do it again the program is there.
Here it is fitted up to the receiver. It looks like it should work. It certainly feels better than the stock trigger. I will be testing it this weekend
I picked up a RPRR yesterday. I’ve have a RPR that I’ve been shooting for a couple years now.
First thing I did when I got home was tear apart the rifle. I picked up a Timney trigger for this rifle as it’s similar to what I have on my RPR.
It’s not a drop in mod as most of you know. I’ve seen people mod the Timney trigger for this platform. Here is my take on it.
As you can see the RPR and RPRR triggers are identical with the exception of some additional machining to get it to fit to the RPRR receiver.
Stock RPR Trigger
Stock RPRR Trigger
Side by side, RPRR on the Left and RPR on the right
I have a small CNC in my garage. I was originally going to do this on the manual mill but I thought I would just do a quick CNC program.
The first step was to strip down the safety mechanism that protruded from the side of the trigger
Then, onto the mill. It took three trips to get it right. In then end it came out OK and if I have to do it again the program is there.
Here it is fitted up to the receiver. It looks like it should work. It certainly feels better than the stock trigger. I will be testing it this weekend
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Yes, it worked out great. I zeroed in the rifle @ 100 yds and then took it out and was hitting 10x18 steel targets at 340 yds.
I don’t have a lot of experience with good triggers. I have a gieselle on one of my AR’s, a Kidd two stage on my 10-22, a couple of CZ’s with the single set triggers and then my two Rugers with the Timney triggers. I do like them.
I didn’t do a 6x5 (or 5x6?) target but it had a pretty decent grouping (for me) at 50 yds around 1-1.5 MOA.
I’m relatively new to precision shooting and only get out about 5 times a year so sometimes it’s hard for me to determine if the accuracy is in the gun or the shooter.
I am running a Vortex Crosfire II 6-24 x50 and ran out of elevation right at 340 yards (had 39 MOA from my 100yd zero) I had about 13 MOA in the down so I might be looking at doing a custom rail. An additional 10 MOA would get me out to 380 and if I zeroed at 200 (also a custom rail) I can get out to around 450.
My only issue with the gun right now is inconsistent ejection. I have read that other people have experienced this. I still need to investigate it.
Overall I am happy with the setup especially for the price tag. I spent more time with this rig than my 6.5 this weekend because it was enjoyable. It really is a fine fun to shoot. And, I have never taken 22lr out past 150 yds.
Here is my setup. A couple of notes; I’m not a fan of UTG products but I do like these bipod legs. They are affordable, the design is novel (vs ripping off someone else’s design), they have a slightly wider stance than typical Harris style bipod. Most importantly, they performed well! The rifle felt stable on the bench.
I threw the muzzle break on for cosmetic value and to try and help trigger my lab radar. I was not able to get the lab radar to trigger and need to investigate alternate methods.
UTG makes a really nice set of 34mm rings. I believe they are called UTG Pro and are very reasonably priced. Anyway here are two photos of them holding my Vortex Razor on my BRNO 4 Biathlon.
