Ruger Precision Rimfire

[TerminalLance0341]

Just shot another 40 rounds through mine and couldn't get it to group at all, random flyers almost every shot... Same exact setup as the last time I shot it. I guess I'll clean it and check the torque.

I had an issue with my scope(Primary Arms 4-14 FFP) a while back, but it got sent back and repaired, could be messed up again.

 

[MTWelder]

I have the first ER Shaw RPRimfire sent out the door. I have been very impressed with it. It is very well made and I couldn't ask for better accuracy. I honestly think they could charge another $100 for them and it would still be a good deal. Mine likes Federal Match and Eley Match.

 

[B y r o n]

What is with their warning that "unfired rounds will not extract"? Anyone had an issue with this?

 

[Lrps260]

Just shot another 40 rounds through mine and couldn't get it to group at all, random flyers almost every shot... Same exact setup as the last time I shot it. I guess I'll clean it and check the torque.

I had an issue with my scope(Primary Arms 4-14 FFP) a while back, but it got sent back and repaired, could be messed up again.

Sorry to hear that,, frustrating...
What ammo?
Also nit sure about that glass
And i had same problems with rugers
Hammer forged horse shit barrel
Put a er shaw match barrel on and never had a problem since... Imho

 

[Lrps260]

Sorry to hear that,, frustrating...
What ammo?
Also nit sure about that glass
And i had same problems with rugers
Hammer forged horse shit barrel
Put a er shaw match barrel on and never had a problem since... Imho

Im using a athlon argos 6-24x50 ffp
Sk yellow box and sk red box or Lapua center x... I haven't tried loose box ammo
Or the cheap stuff....
Almost forgot..i beded my action with alluminum tape where action and barrel block sits... It shoots with my kidd 10/22 now...

 

[Subwrx300]

What is with their warning that "unfired rounds will not extract"? Anyone had an issue with this?

I haven't tried extraction of an unfired round yet. But the reason for the warning is that the lands/lead is VERY VERY short and when closing the bolt, it forces the bullet into the lands. Basically all rounds are jammed upon going into full battery. This

So in theory, you could get one seated hard enough that you may not be able to extract without pulling bullet out of case, damaging rim or, worse, it may tear case head rim (could be dangerous due to priming compound in the rim). I did test with a 22LR dummy round and yes, one of 5 got stuck and showed lands engraved on bullet section. The others were under diameter, but this one was slightly larger.

I think with some use though, it will loosen a bit but will try it when I know I have time to potentially remove a stuck round.

 

[Subwrx300]

Just shot another 40 rounds through mine and couldn't get it to group at all, random flyers almost every shot... Same exact setup as the last time I shot it. I guess I'll clean it and check the torque.

I had an issue with my scope(Primary Arms 4-14 FFP) a while back, but it got sent back and repaired, could be messed up again.

How many rounds (roughly) through barrel and what ammo? In reading up quite a bit on Rimfire, Eley engineers feel that a cleaning every100 rounds or so will keep best accuracy. They suggested using a dry patch, followed by short stroking throat/lead with two or three dry patches.

Other benchrest sites suggest cleaning back to bare metal every 200-300 rounds and pay special attention to lead/throat area. A carbon ring can develop getting accuracy.

Both of those philosophies run counter to the "common belief" that rimfires shoot better dirty therefore don't clean them. But I'd probably place my money on the 100k+ rounds fired by Eley engineers to determine best cleaning interval for optimum precision.

Just something to try before you lose hope in the barrel/ammo. I noticed in my factory barrel that the squeaky clean barrel from rounds 400-500 shot GREAT then it dropped off slightly.

 

[Lrps260]

I haven't tried extraction of an unfired round yet. But the reason for the warning is that the lands/lead is VERY VERY short and when closing the bolt, it forces the bullet into the lands. Basically all rounds are jammed upon going into full battery. This

So in theory, you could get one seated hard enough that you may not be able to extract without pulling bullet out of case, damaging rim or, worse, it may tear case head rim (could be dangerous due to priming compound in the rim). I did test with a 22LR dummy round and yes, one of 5 got stuck and showed lands engraved on bullet section. The others were under diameter, but this one was slightly larger.

I think with some use though, it will loosen a bit but will try it when I know I have time to potentially remove a stuck round.

After I installed my barrel I couldn't resist,and yes it did not extract,,,, it dies loosen up a tad bit. But if you shoot a normal .22 bolt action you can tell a difference on how the bolt locks...
Im tickled shitless with mine.. i am a due hard bartlein, kreiger, shilin guy but i am impressed with this barrel..i may have just gotten lucky.idk i gave shot it 300-400 rnds..and haven't even put a patch down
it and dont plan to until my groups loosen up.. it shoots consistantly,.350.400.500 if i do my part.

 

[straightshooter1]

What is with their warning that "unfired rounds will not extract"? Anyone had an issue with this?

It seems they have that warning because of the "tight chamber" and the differences between various manufacturer's specs for their ammo. I hadn't given this much thought until now and as a precision reloader, cartridge specs are really important. So, I went at it and measured some of the various .22LR cartridges I have to see the difference. Here's what I got:


Cartridge , Length, Diameter (near rim)

• CCI CPRN , .989 - .9915, 0.224
• CCI Green Tag , .9865 - .9895, 0.224
• Fed Auto Match , .9825 - .985 , 0.224
• Win Subsonic, .977 - .982 , .225 - .2255
• Win Match, .9765 - .980 , .2245 - .255
• CCI SV , .989 - .9915, 0.224
• Eley Club , .980 - .986, 0.2235
• Lapua Center-X , .9725 - .973, .223 - .2235
• Fed UltraMatch, .9675 - .968, 0.2235

So, with this chamber, I would think this issue comes into play with the longer cartridges and that little variance in diameter too.

Guess I'll have to test this to confirm my hypothesis .


Interesting to me is that the shortest cartridges with slightly smaller diameter are the one's that I find perform the best. Hmmm??? Does that mean they're seated deeper or just have shorter bullets???

 

[Subwrx300]

It seems they have that warning because of the "tight chamber" and the differences between various manufacturer's specs for their ammo. I hadn't given this much thought until now and as a precision reloader, cartridge specs are really important. So, I went at it and measured some of the various .22LR cartridges I have to see the difference. Here's what I got:


Cartridge , Length, Diameter (near rim)

• CCI CPRN , .989 - .9915, 0.224
• CCI Green Tag , .9865 - .9895, 0.224
• Fed Auto Match , .9825 - .985 , 0.224
• Win Subsonic, .977 - .982 , .225 - .2255
• Win Match, .9765 - .980 , .2245 - .255
• CCI SV , .989 - .9915, 0.224
• Eley Club , .980 - .986, 0.2235
• Lapua Center-X , .9725 - .973, .223 - .2235
• Fed UltraMatch, .9675 - .968, 0.2235

So, with this chamber, I would think this issue comes into play with the longer cartridges and that little variance in diameter too.

Guess I'll have to test this to confirm my hypothesis .


Interesting to me is that the shortest cartridges with slightly smaller diameter are the one's that I find perform the best. Hmmm??? Does that mean they're seated deeper or just have shorter bullets???

They state reason in the packaging of barrel but it's easy to miss. There is no freebore in this barrel; the rifling engages bullets as soon as you start to close the bolt. Most if not all bullets are jammed when closing bolt, so extraction will be very hard if unfired.

 

[straightshooter1]

They state reason in the packaging of barrel but it's easy to miss. There is no freebore in this barrel; the rifling engages bullets as soon as you start to close the bolt. Most if not all bullets are jammed when closing bolt, so extraction will be very hard if unfired.

Hmmmm??? Then, apparently, if one is using Winchester cartridges, it'll be particularly hard to extract unfired rounds due to their larger diameter.

 

[Noobshooter86]

So i got my rifle out today...and im in love with this thing! I dont know if i got the luck of the draw or what but mine shoots fantastic! Sighted in my optic at 50 yards first (vortex copperhead 4-12x44, with leupold high rings, stock 30moa mount). After i had my zero, i put quarters out at 50 and 60 yards. At both ranges it would hit every single time. Using the ammo i was telling you all about, its federal target grade 40gr, bulk pack 325 rounds for $20. I did run about 30 rounds thru it during my zeroing, so all shots on the quarters were after that short break in. Trigger is perfect in my opinion (i have it to the lightest i could get it with just the factory adjusment range). There were about a half a dozen shots i pulled off target, but cant blame the rifle for that. Not sure the outside factors for those wondering, there was almost zero wind, as my range has hill on 3 sides. Awesome conditions.
This rifle has to be in the top 5 guns ive had. Zero regrets. If this thing will stay that consistent using non match grade ammo, its not going anywhere. I am going to definitely try some of the good stuff you guys have mentioned also. Just for the hell of it i set up some .300 blackout brass on a 2x4 i had at the 60 mark, and could hit those as well with maybe 20% misses. If you are contemplating buying one of these, just do it. For a beginner into this precision rifle stuff, im super happy. I can see how addicting it can get tho...im already thinking about trying to make it better. ??

 

[Subwrx300]

Hmmmm??? Then, apparently, if one is using Winchester cartridges, it'll be particularly hard to extract unfired rounds due to their larger diameter.

Possibly. It depends a bit on diameter, lead hardness, wax/lube on bullet and such. If the bearing surface is longer and larger and harder then yes, likely harder to extract unfired round.

 

[TerminalLance0341]

How many rounds (roughly) through barrel and what ammo? In reading up quite a bit on Rimfire, Eley engineers feel that a cleaning every100 rounds or so will keep best accuracy. They suggested using a dry patch, followed by short stroking throat/lead with two or three dry patches.

Other benchrest sites suggest cleaning back to bare metal every 200-300 rounds and pay special attention to lead/throat area. A carbon ring can develop getting accuracy.

Both of those philosophies run counter to the "common belief" that rimfires shoot better dirty therefore don't clean them. But I'd probably place my money on the 100k+ rounds fired by Eley engineers to determine best cleaning interval for optimum precision.

Just something to try before you lose hope in the barrel/ammo. I noticed in my factory barrel that the squeaky clean barrel from rounds 400-500 shot GREAT then it dropped off slightly.

Only had about 50 rounds through it. I cleaned it and retorqued the action, hopefully I can get out and test it again. Lrps260, I was using Aguila Pistol Match. Had great results with it the last time out.

 

[Subwrx300]

Only had about 50 rounds through it. I cleaned it and retorqued the action, hopefully I can get out and test it again. Lrps260, I was using Aguila Pistol Match. Had great results with it the last time out.

That's likely part of the reason. I'd shoot at LEAST 100-200 rounds before I start looking for any serious precision/accuracy analysis. Just crossed around 900 rounds with mine and it has shrunk considerably with most ammo. CCI Standard Velocity: started at .5-.6" 5 shot group average and now it's .3-.4" 5 shot group average.

I'd recommend buying 4-5 boxes of CCI SV or Federal Target and shooting those through, then buy 1 box each of a variety ammo. CCI SV, CCI Green Tag, Fed Gold Medal Target, Fed Gold Medal HV Match, Eley Target, Eley Club, SK Rifle Match, SK Standard Plus, etc.

Shoot those after you cross the 200-300 round mark then see report back.

 

[TerminalLance0341]

What leads to a barrel being "broken in"? Is it just the tooling marks being filled in?

I wonder why I got such a great group and then garbage the next time out. I'll put more rounds through it, and see what happens.

 

[Subwrx300]

What leads to a barrel being "broken in"? Is it just the tooling marks being filled in?

I wonder why I got such a great group and then garbage the next time out. I'll put more rounds through it, and see what happens.

It's a combination of things. Squeaky clean it is consistent then it starts to collect fouling. The more you shoot, the more the grooves/marks that collect fouling diminish. A barrel *usually* shoots good after a few rounds to get it dirtied, then continues to shoot until fouling accumulated begins to hurt accuracy. My factory barrel shot okay for first 50 -75 then not so great. Cleaned thoroughly and it went about 100 before it started falling off. Cleaned one more time and stayed good their~200 rounds. Then I just pull a bore snake a couple times every 200 rounds.

Rimfires can take 100's if not over a 1000+ rounds to smooth out, at least for factory barrels that are not lapped.

 

[Subwrx300]

Ran a torque tuning test on RPRF yesterday. Here is link to the post:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/rpr-rimfire-torque-tuning-does-work.6902114/

Give it a shot and see if you get any similar results. I think you will need to have good ammo to be sure results are measurable. Probably very hard to determine any effect with bulk cheapo plinking ammo. CCI SV, Fed Target, Fed HV Match and Eley Target have all produced decent groups at relatively low cost in my barrels.

 

[Travelor]

SUCCESS!

I have probably spent enough on ammo to come close to the cost of the rifle seeking accuracy. Up until I received my second Green Mountain barrel (first was defective) nothing was working other than the use of tape to "bed" the action to the stock.

Today I shot the rifle using a Green Mountain barrel, tape to help with mating the barrel to the action and torqued the action screws to 35 inch pounds. I was using a Harris bipod and a leather rear bag filled with heavy sand and a Leupold 6.5x20 EFR scope.

Groups were consistently in the 1/2" and less for 10 shots at 50 yards (no flyers), and under 2" at 150 yards.

I'm a happy camper now.

 

[Rolltide]

Congrats!

 

[heartburn]

SUCCESS!

I have probably spent enough on ammo to come close to the cost of the rifle seeking accuracy. Up until I received my second Green Mountain barrel (first was defective) nothing was working other than the use of tape to "bed" the action to the stock.

Today I shot the rifle using a Green Mountain barrel, tape to help with mating the barrel to the action and torqued the action screws to 35 inch pounds. I was using a Harris bipod and a leather rear bag filled with heavy sand and a Leupold 6.5x20 EFR scope.

Groups were consistently in the 1/2" and less for 10 shots at 50 yards (no flyers), and under 2" at 150 yards.

I'm a happy camper now.

Glad to hear you finally found the accuracy you have been hunting.

 

[elfster1234]

 

[Ironcreek]

Had the chance of shooting one the other day and liked it. Trying to talk my wife into trading her 10-22 for one now

 

[Frankr]

Pulled the barrel off.

What a PITA.. here are some pics of the thread locker they used .



Also noticed that although the magazine locks up tight with the 15-25 round mags you can cause the front of the bullet to dip by pulling back on the bottom of the magazine. I don’t know if it will be a problem but we will see.

 

[glockem]

Had the chance of shooting one the other day and liked it. Trying to talk my wife into trading her 10-22 for one now

Keep your 10-22. I am really regretting purchasing the precision rimfire. Reliability is simply awful for a bolt action rifle. Continuous failures to eject. Will not load from Ruger brand 10-round magazines at all. Even has trouble loading from the provided 15-round magazine. The first time I dissasembled it to deep clean, the mounting block fell out. When I picked it up and turned it sideways, the pin fell out causing the entire block to fall into pieces. Then I had to figure out that jigsaw puzzle, because the Ruger schematics to not include mounting block break down. The pin has not tension at all and just continues to fall out.

Accuracy also leaves much to be desired as mentioned in several previous threads. I've been able to get some decent groups with CCI SV, but they are not predictable and I have a lot of random fliers. Tried again today with suppressor attached and got the attached. Way too much vertical stringing. Wolf Match Target and Fiocchi 320 produced marginally acceptable 2 MOA groups. Aguilar Super-Extra which has posted 0.39 inch groups in American Rifleman reviews is absolutely horrible in this rifle. My CMP Kimber loves the Aguilar, but not this bad boy. I could actually accept the accuracy for the price, but the reliability is unforgivable in a bolt action.

If I could, I'd take it back to the store and try to forget the entire purchase. I guess I'll have to settle for sending it back to Ruger for reliability work.

 

[quickdraw]

So if the rimfire had come out before the successful centerfire, how many would they have sold?

 

[Subwrx300]

Keep your 10-22. I am really regretting purchasing the precision rimfire. Reliability is simply awful for a bolt action rifle. Continuous failures to eject. Will not load from Ruger brand 10-round magazines at all. Even has trouble loading from the provided 15-round magazine. The first time I dissasembled it to deep clean, the mounting block fell out. When I picked it up and turned it sideways, the pin fell out causing the entire block to fall into pieces. Then I had to figure out that jigsaw puzzle, because the Ruger schematics to not include mounting block break down. The pin has not tension at all and just continues to fall out.

Accuracy also leaves much to be desired as mentioned in several previous threads. I've been able to get some decent groups with CCI SV, but they are not predictable and I have a lot of random fliers. Tried again today with suppressor attached and got the attached. Way too much vertical stringing. Wolf Match Target and Fiocchi 320 produced marginally acceptable 2 MOA groups. Aguilar Super-Extra which has posted 0.39 inch groups in American Rifleman reviews is absolutely horrible in this rifle. My CMP Kimber loves the Aguilar, but not this bad boy. I could actually accept the accuracy for the price, but the reliability is unforgivable in a bolt action.

If I could, I'd take it back to the store and try to forget the entire purchase. I guess I'll have to settle for sending it back to Ruger for reliability work.

With respect, while some of the issues you mention are definitely worthy of a call to Ruger, others are simply part of the design.

I don't know your background or shooting skill, so this is not meant to be offensive or combative, simply points to consider given the many people that have found success with the platform.

1. Failures to eject: a few people have had this issue and most resolved by bending the ejector spring inwards towards center of bolt. However, if you meant "failure to EXTRACT" that would be worth a call to Ruger for fix.
2. Loading issues sound like you may have received a bad chassis; a few people here have had similar issues and Ruger sent them a new chassis at no cost.
3. V-Block/Mounting block: it's designed to come out easily for cleaning and routine maintenance.
4. V-Block Pin falling out: see number 3. If you really want it to stay put, put an ever so small drop of silicone or super glue on pin (unassembled) and let dry and it should add the friction you are looking for. Even without any modifications, it will not come out when assembled into rifle, so it's more of a maintenance point.
5. Accuracy: while some have have had mixed results, it seems a good number of guys usually find an ammo type or two that produce good results. (@elfster1234 , @straightshooter1 @Noobshooter86 , @MTWelder , @Lrps260, @Snuby642 just to point out a few, along with several YouTubers like 22Plinkster and many others that Im sure Google will list). I tested 15+ different quality options from Eley, Federal, CCI and SK during testing break in. Also once I found decent result, tried a few different lots to see if any shot better/worse and precision has improved further.
6. Accuracy part 2: if #5 hasn't worked, it could be worth checking action screw torque, scope, mount etc. (You know, the basic stuff). Ruger has a page in the manual listing those items to try.
7. Accuracy part 3: How many rounds down the barrel? There are a TON of precision rimfire shooters (check out rimfirecentral.com) that can document most barrels/rifles take upwards of 1000+ rounds before they shoot their best groups. I put 1100 rounds through factory barrel before deciding to upgrade. It went from .7-.8" 10shot group at 50yds to about <.5-.7" with most of the flyers disappearing over that time. Not all but most. Custom barrel is shooting even better .3-.5" at 50yds and averaging 1" at 100yds using match ammo.
8. Accuracy part 4: if #5, #6, and #7 haven't worked, cal Ruger and they will likely replace barrel. Or alternatively, get an aftermarket barrel if cost isn't an issue.
9. Price: sometimes it's easy to forget that this is a $350-450 dollar rifle with no competition coming close feature to feature: adjustable comb, length of pull, great trigger, modular M-Lok rail, 30moa base, modular bolt throw, allowing and designed for easy barrel swaps.... All for less than $400 if you find a good deal. It would be hard to source parts to build a similar rifle for anything near this cost unless everything is second hand, which is not apply to apples.

With all of that said, if your unhappy, call Ruger and either give them a chance to make it right (which I'm certain they will) OR, I'm sure you could sell to a member here looking for good deal. ?

Like any product, sometimes you get burned even on a "sure bet". I'm dealing with a second $500 barrel that's struggling to keep anything near 1 MOA but I'm working with manufacturer to make it right.

I hope you get it figured out and Ruger takes care of the issues you've identified.

Cheers!

Subwrx300

[Edited some typos]

 

[Subwrx300]

So if the rimfire had come out before the successful centerfire, how many would they have sold?

That's a really good and tough question to conjecture about, but I think they would have sold quite a few regardless if released today and the original RPR had never existed.

I don't think the RPRF is solely popular because it looks like it's big brother, but because 22LR trainers are becoming very popular. Here are reasons I see for success IMO:

• Rimfire ammo is now super easy to find everywhere; that wasn't the neccessarily the case everywhere when the original RPR came out.
• Long rang shooting popularity has been growing for years but really hit it's stride about 4-5 years ago; thus 223 and now 22LR trainers have become very popular over the last two or three years (again, ammo shortage clearing up helped this) but growth of PRS and small-caliber training rifle concept has been well marketed/accepted by community.
• • I think the success of the 6.5mm cartridges into mainstream has helped trainers significantly: the common thought prior was a 308 was THE caliber and anything smaller was neither acceptable or cool, or at least to the uninitiated. It either had to be much faster or much heavier recoiling (remember the short action ultramag craze of the late 90s/early2000's?). But lots of the older guard are embracing the smaller .264 calibers, the .223 and similar sized bullets are being pushed further than ever (22 Nosler, 224V, 223CM, 6CM, etc) but I digress....
• Features of either RPR and RPRF are large part of the allure, not necessarily pure accuracy/precision.
• Ruger has been doing quite well as far as commercial manufacturers go over last several years by releasing products with combinations of features that people want at a price they can absorb. Think SR556 piston gun, AR556, LCP9, Silent-SR suppressor, Ruger Target Lite series pistol, Ruger Scout rifle etc. By contrast, Remington continued forcing same options into market with very little innovation for the price point. They are only now trying to right that ship and offer "unique" products to faster growing markets.
• Niche product targeted marketing is something Ruger seems to do very well to ensure right people within market know about product. That said, the rimfire version had a big marketing help due to the success and name recognition of it's big brother.

So if you assume the original RPR was not released and Rimfire was out in today's maket, I think it still sells really well. Perhaps not quite as wildfire like as it has been to date though.

If it released it released 2-3 years ago, it would have been much tougher to gain traction due to ammo shortage/cost and the fact that not as many people wanted to spend $400-500 on rifle that ammo was perceived as impossible to find affordably and easily (main selling point of a 22LR IMO).

Am curious what others think about this thought exercise...

 

[glockem]

Greetings.

Thanks Subwrx300 for you earlier response. It's the failures to load and eject that are most concerning to me. I also expected the RPR to be more accurate than the 10/22, but that remains to be seen as many folks at my club have more accurate 10/22 with factory barrels.


Has anyone else notice this problem with their RPR? My bolt is digging an indentation in the receiver. I can feel the bolt catch when it reaches the end of the indentation. Is this something I should be concerned about? I've fired about 400 rounds at this point.

 

[straightshooter1]

Greetings.

Thanks Subwrx300 for you earlier response. It's the failures to load and eject that are most concerning to me. I also expected the RPR to be more accurate than the 10/22, but that remains to be seen as many folks at my club have more accurate 10/22 with factory barrels.


Has anyone else notice this problem with their RPR? My bolt is digging an indentation in the receiver. I can feel the bolt catch when it reaches the end of the indentation. Is this something I should be concerned about? I've fired about 400 rounds at this point.

Yes, I had the same problem with the bolt "digging" (as you describe it) and that was concerning to me at the time. Once, as i took the bold out to inspect it and see why t was "digging" like that, I cut my finger pretty good on the sharp edge of that long grove in the bolt. In fact both edges of that long group were razor sharp. I had already decided that it was going to take a little time to get the bolt broken in where it would run smother, but those razor sharp edges just wasn't acceptable as I didn't want to worry about inadvertently cutting myself again. So, I pulled out my jeweler's files and filed down those edges and afterwards when I put the bolt back in, it no longer did any of that "digging" in as before and has run smoothly since.

I also had problem with failure to eject where the brass just doesn't always make its way out of the chamber. I've tried some of the fixes some people have mentioned, and it's has improved quite a lot . . . BUT, I still have way too many FTE's and the often the ejection is weak where it brass is not thrown out very far. Some have called Ruger and had a new part sent to them free of charge that seems to have solved their problem. I think I'm going to do that too, very soon.

From what I can tell in that picture, I think I'd have Ruger replace it.

BTW: Keep in mind that the barrel on this RPRF is not a "match" barrel, but it's a "target" barrel. So, one shouldn't expect accuracy equivalent to high end match rifles with match barrels. But . . . we should certainly see better accuracy than a 10/22 (10/22's without upgraded barrels). My 10/22 shoots pretty well with certain ammo . . . for an off the shelf standard factory model. My RPRF with the factory barrel was definitely shooting better than my 10/22, particularly after I had a few hundred rounds down the pipe. But then, some of that depends on the ammo one is using as one gun will prefer on brand/type over another.

 

[Frankr]

So if the rimfire had come out before the successful centerfire, how many would they have sold?

I can only tell you from my perspective.

For me it wouldn't have mattered one bit. I bought the RPRF so that my kids could get behind a bolt gun that adjusts to their size, uses easy to load and reliable mags (already have a bunch helps), enlarged bolt knob, easy safety, free floated barrel , etc...

The only parts I am changing will be

1. Barrel - Going to get a ~ 16-18oz barrel on it instead of the ~40 oz pig that is on it -
2. Grip - probably going to put an ergo tactical deluxe grip (non palm shelf), like I have on my AR's for it.

If it's reliable and shoots pretty decent with the new barrel then it will be a win/win for me and my kids. I don't need a vudoo (spelling?) accurate rifle for them (I would like one but it's not necessary), but the other features at the price point were what sealed the deal for me.

 

[Subwrx300]

Greetings.

Thanks Subwrx300 for you earlier response. It's the failures to load and eject that are most concerning to me. I also expected the RPR to be more accurate than the 10/22, but that remains to be seen as many folks at my club have more accurate 10/22 with factory barrels.


Has anyone else notice this problem with their RPR? My bolt is digging an indentation in the receiver. I can feel the bolt catch when it reaches the end of the indentation. Is this something I should be concerned about? I've fired about 400 rounds at this point.

If you have file and a Dremel, you could do as @straightshooter1 suggests. I've used a Dremel with the polishing wheel amd jewelers rouge on few bolts to improve smoothness.

If no Dremel, you can do it by hand too failure quickly. Strip down to barreled action, remove trigger, remove the clip on bolt to increase bolt throw (3" throw setting), plug the chamber with a patch, put Flitz or JB borepaste on the bolt surfaces and cycle action literally 400-500 times.

Do it while watching TV and it will be amazingly smooth when you are done. Just be sure to give it a thorough cleaning afterward with brake cleaner and lots of qtips to remove any residue.

I cycled mine this way about 600-700 times (1 hour TV show) and it is ridiculously smooth now. Almost all rifles that are on the budget end of the spectrum have their weak spots and machining parts faster is a quick way to keep costs down. But for that savings, we have to work them a bit more to get them finely tuned.

 

[Hardpan]

With respect, while some of the issues you mention are definitely worthy of a call to Ruger, others are simply part of the design.

I don't know your background or shooting skill, so this is not meant to be offensive or combative, simply points to consider given the many people that have found success with the platform.

1. Failures to eject: a few people have had this issue and most resolved by bending the ejector spring inwards towards center of bolt. However, if you meant "failure to EXTRACT" that would be worth a call to Ruger for fix.
2. Loading issues sound like you may have received a bad chassis; a few people here have had similar issues and Ruger sent them a new chassis at no cost.
3. V-Block/Mounting block: it's designed to come out easily for cleaning and routine maintenance.
4. V-Block Pin falling out: see number 3. If you really want it to stay put, put an ever so small drop of silicone or super glue on pin (unassembled) and let dry and it should add the friction you are looking for. Even without any modifications, it will not come out when assembled into rifle, so it's more of a maintenance point.
5. Accuracy: while some have have had mixed results, it seems a good number of guys usually find an ammo type or two that produce good results. (@elfster1234 , @straightshooter1 @Noobshooter86 , @MTWelder , @Lrps260, @Snuby642 just to point out a few, along with several YouTubers like 22Plinkster and many others that Im sure Google will list). I tested 15+ different quality options from Eley, Federal, CCI and SK during testing break in. Also once I found decent result, tried a few different lots to see if any shot better/worse and precision has improved further.
6. Accuracy part 2: if #5 hasn't worked, it could be worth checking action screw torque, scope, mount etc. (You know, the basic stuff). Ruger has a page in the manual listing those items to try.
7. Accuracy part 3: How many rounds down the barrel? There are a TON of precision rimfire shooters (check out rimfirecentral.com) that can document most barrels/rifles take upwards of 1000+ rounds before they shoot their best groups. I put 1100 rounds through factory barrel before deciding to upgrade. It went from .7-.8" 10shot group at 50yds to about <.5-.7" with most of the flyers disappearing over that time. Not all but most. Custom barrel is shooting even better .3-.5" at 50yds and averaging 1" at 100yds using match ammo.
8. Accuracy part 4: if #5, #6, and #7 haven't worked, cal Ruger and they will likely replace barrel. Or alternatively, get an aftermarket barrel if cost isn't an issue.
9. Price: sometimes it's easy to forget that this is a $350-450 dollar rifle with no competition coming close feature to feature: adjustable comb, length of pull, great trigger, modular M-Lok rail, 30moa base, modular bolt throw, allowing and designed for easy barrel swaps.... All for less than $400 if you find a good deal. It would be hard to source parts to build a similar rifle for anything near this cost unless everything is second hand, which is not apply to apples.

With all of that said, if your unhappy, call Ruger and either give them a chance to make it right (which I'm certain they will) OR, I'm sure you could sell to a member here looking for good deal. ?

Like any product, sometimes you get burned even on a "sure bet". I'm dealing with a second $500 barrel that's struggling to keep anything near 1 MOA but I'm working with manufacturer to make it right.

I hope you get it figured out and Ruger takes care of the issues you've identified.

Cheers!

Subwrx300

[Edited some typos]

What kinds of ammo does your barrel like?

 

[Subwrx300]

@Hardpan , Ive had good results with a few different types. My definition of good for rimfire of any kind is <1MOA @50yds and <1.5MOA at 100yds. Great ammo will be ~.75MOA at 50 and <1MOA avg at 100.

Goal was to find a practice ammo (best groups per dollar) and match ammo (that cost under $10-12 box, which is most types expect Tenex, UM1 and XAct).

Picked CCI SV & FGM Target for general Practice and SK Rifle Match for matches and a few match-like practice sessions.

Ammo test - three 5shot groups followed by 10 shot for record.

CcI SV 15 shot groups from recently cleaned barrel.

Also did the same for factory barrel.
Here are the original posts:
Factory barrel: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/ruger-precision-rimfire.6827519/page-10#post-7204390
Shaw barrel: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tested-er-shaw-ruger-precision-rimfire-barrel.6901759/

 

[Noobshooter86]

Just want to post a quick update...
Ive had my rifle out now about a half dozen times, and round count is around 800ish. The gun definitely has gotten better with the more rounds thru it. I have shot about 650 of those rounds using the federal target match bulk ammo still, and my rifle is loving it. I did try a few other brands of match ammo that you all have recommended, and while it has shot slightly tighter with the better ammo, it hasnt been THAT much better on my particular gun. Which imo, is great that it loves the cheap stuff. Also, on a side note i do find that the ammo im using is really not that dirty, surprisingly.
I have taken my rifle down a couple times for good cleaning, and noticed that almost everything holding it together is basically hand tight. Upon retorqueing (sp?) It feels alot better.
I genuinely feel bad for anyone having a bad experience with these guns, as i have zero complaints with mine for the money spent. The only add ons is my glass and i just put on a utg bipod (which i kinda thought would be a pos for the price, but is very solid and well made, with plenty of clearance between the barrel and handguard...not a ton of adjustment, i think only 4 clicks of height on the legs, but perfect for my application).
All and all, it keeps getting better, and im still very happy with mine. Also anyone having issues, ruger customer support is top notch also and will help with any problems u may be having.
??

 

[wolfs4evr]

New ER Shaw barrel is installed!

-ER Shaw barrel was SSUUPPPEEER stupid tight. Had to heat up receiver and in still needed rubber mallet to get into action. There will be ZERO movement inside action.
- Bolt closes fairly hard now, so I'm guessing the headspace is slight off (rear camming surface on bolt handle) on new barrel or just very tight fit of bolt face to barrel breech.

I got my Shaw in late Aug.

Noticed all that you noted for the most part. I didn't have to heat anything up but did do a little tap with a rubber mallet to get the barrel seated.

My bolt closed extremely tight also. Too tight IMO. I did shoot it as is the first time out but what an extra workout with the bolt closing so tight (200-300rds no change). I contacted Shaw about it and they wanted me to send the rifle in for inspection. A few emails later the Shaw representative, via email, mentioned they have seen this before with some 10/22s since they have noted Rugers tollerances are not as consistent as theirs. Not wanting to send my rifle away since I had a match coming up I did some messing around and came up with a "shim" to adjust how far the barrel seated into the upper. I sent my results and pictures to Shaw and they called it "ingenuinty"... Also noted that my foil shim will not crush and I should be good to go from here on. Thousands of rounds later and no issues what so ever. Extremely happy camper.

I noted that the factory barrel seated into the receiver somewhere around .998 - .999".
The Shaw seated 1.001 - 1.002".

(Cheap calipers...)

I created/used 4 shims which equaled +/- .0035" of HD Reynolds aluminum foil to get the bolt action where I liked it. I found a semi thick shim laying around in the stuff bin that was close enough and used it to trace/cut out foil shims with a razor blade. I started with one shim, assembled, tested, took apart again, went to 2, etc to get where I finally ended up at.

(These shims slip over the barrel before it is seated in the upper.)

If I do my job and there is no wind I'm closing in on 1/4" groups (maybe a hair closer to .030" than .025") at 50yds with SK Pistol Match. Where I need to be to shoot KYL matches where the smallest target is just a hair over 1/4" in diameter.

But they are not the round to go with beyond 50yds. The group opens up too much. So I use these only for 50yd KYL matches.

For NRL22 matches I'm using SK Standard Plus. Much better grouping at 100yds. (With the factory barrel I preferred SK Standard Plus for KYL matches over SK PM...) I have shot some sub 1/4" sized groups with SK standard plus at 50yds but not as consistent as the SK PM rounds.

These below I was just shooing quick for dope with SK Standard Plus and spent most of my time shooting 75, 100, 125, 150yds etc. My first NRL22 match was targets at 25, 35, 50, 75 and 100yds with some match director extra rounds at 100-200yds. Fun times and not too spendy to do at all.

I was shooting semi quick on these. Not for groups but dope. All I needed for this outing.

I haven't dived too deep into the expensive stuff. I have a hard time spending that kind of money for a .22lr round.

What I really need now is someone to get a trigger out... I'd sure like to see something under 1lb for KYL matches.

Tom

 

[Hardpan]

I got my Shaw in late Aug.

Noticed all that you noted for the most part. I didn't have to heat anything up but did do a little tap with a rubber mallet to get the barrel seated.

My bolt closed extremely tight also. Too tight IMO. I did shoot it as is the first time out but what an extra workout with the bolt closing so tight (200-300rds no change). I contacted Shaw about it and they wanted me to send the rifle in for inspection. A few emails later the Shaw representative, via email, mentioned they have seen this before with some 10/22s since they have noted Rugers tollerances are not as consistent as theirs. Not wanting to send my rifle away since I had a match coming up I did some messing around and came up with a "shim" to adjust how far the barrel seated into the upper. I sent my results and pictures to Shaw and they called it "ingenuinty"... Also noted that my foil shim will not crush and I should be good to go from here on. Thousands of rounds later and no issues what so ever. Extremely happy camper.

I noted that the factory barrel seated into the receiver somewhere around .998 - .999".
The Shaw seated 1.001 - 1.002".

(Cheap calipers...)

I created/used 4 shims which equaled +/- .0035" of HD Reynolds aluminum foil to get the bolt action where I liked it. I found a semi thick shim laying around in the stuff bin that was close enough and used it to trace/cut out foil shims with a razor blade. I started with one shim, assembled, tested, took apart again, went to 2, etc to get where I finally ended up at.

(These shims slip over the barrel before it is seated in the upper.)

View attachment 6948005
View attachment 6948006
View attachment 6948007

If I do my job and there is no wind I'm closing in on 1/4" groups (maybe a hair closer to .030" than .025") at 50yds with SK Pistol Match. Where I need to be to shoot KYL matches where the smallest target is just a hair over 1/4" in diameter.

But they are not the round to go with beyond 50yds. The group opens up too much. So I use these only for 50yd KYL matches.

For NRL22 matches I'm using SK Standard Plus. Much better grouping at 100yds. (With the factory barrel I preferred SK Standard Plus for KYL matches over SK PM...) I have shot some sub 1/4" sized groups with SK standard plus at 50yds but not as consistent as the SK PM rounds.

These below I was just shooing quick for dope with SK Standard Plus and spent most of my time shooting 75, 100, 125, 150yds etc. My first NRL22 match was targets at 25, 35, 50, 75 and 100yds with some match director extra rounds at 100-200yds. Fun times and not too spendy to do at all.

View attachment 6948029
View attachment 6948033

I was shooting semi quick on these. Not for groups but dope. All I needed for this outing.

View attachment 6948053

I haven't dived too deep into the expensive stuff. I have a hard time spending that kind of money for a .22lr round.

What I really need now is someone to get a trigger out... I'd sure like to see something under 1lb for KYL matches.

Tom

This is a good idea to try. I though about shiming the barrel but decided to try it as is. It’s making the back end of my bolt handle when closed rub the notch cut out of the reciever. I found shavings in my barrel after I cleaned it so maybe I might try this to rid the problem

 

[Subwrx300]

Thought I might throw is up as a teaser....have been using it for about 1200 rounds or so over the last two weeks and it is GREAT! For those wanting a replacement trigger for the RPRF, at least one company is in progress with beta testing. I'm sure details will arrive at some point soon from the manufacturer.

 

[Frankr]

Thought I might throw is up as a teaser....have been using it for about 1200 rounds or so over the last two weeks and it is GREAT! For those wanting a replacement trigger for the RPRF, at least one company is in progress with beta testing. I'm sure details will arrive at some point soon from the manufacturer.View attachment 6948115

So cool. Except removing my trigger group is almost impossible. Probably will need to remove material to take the old out.

 

[kgc54]

Thought I might throw is up as a teaser....have been using it for about 1200 rounds or so over the last two weeks and it is GREAT! For those wanting a replacement trigger for the RPRF, at least one company is in progress with beta testing. I'm sure details will arrive at some point soon from the manufacturer.View attachment 6948115

Oh tell us some more... I read somewhere on some forum that some person was beta testing a trigger for some well known trigger manufacturer. Will it be worth the wait?

 

[Subwrx300]

Oh tell us some more... I read somewhere on some forum that some person was beta testing a trigger for some well known trigger manufacturer. Will it be worth the wait?

Yes. Definitely. Factory trigger is good but this is substantially better. Smoother, cleaner and lighter. Helped control break until exactly when you want.

Will be worth the wait.

 

[CaptNemo]

Single or two stage trigger ?

 

[Subwrx300]

Single or two stage trigger ?

Two stage... 8oz first and 8-16oz adjustable second stage.

 

[blacknwhite11]

When will someone produce a real chassis? One quality product could take this rifle from good to exceptional.

 

[Subwrx300]

When will someone produce a real chassis? One quality product could take this rifle from good to exceptional.

I think there is a market for a chassis but I'm not sure it would make a better alternative to other platforms. For the cost, a CZ 455 or even Savage have several stock options that make sense as they aren't adjustable from the factory.

Don't get me wrong: I for one would like to see some other options but the factory stock is pretty good value given it's features. But for some, I can definitely see reason/logic for wanting aluminum chassis or maybe composite stock if simply to upgrade what they already have.

I would likely buy an MPA or similar if they offered one to have a poor man's Vudoo...but I don't think the action lends itself to those options due to magazine shape and lack of lugs of any sort.

But Id love to be wrong about that! ?

 

[quickdraw]

The primary selling point of the RPR was the factory chassis style system. If you chuck that then what is remaining is not worth building. If and that is a big IF changing the barrel and a few minor expense tweaks can get it to a solid 1moa rifle then maybe it's worth the cost and effort. If not then it's just a cool looking plinker or youth rifle.

 

[Frankr]

Random thought - wonder how much it would cost if someone brought out a chassis that used the RPRF action, free float tube, grip, trigger control group, etc.... just replace the plastic with metal and you added an AR15 buttstock.

This might solve a lot of the accuracy and feeding issues that people have. I can’t imagine it would cost much, kind of like the PMACA chassis for the 10-22.

 

[Travelor]

Before throwing money at this little gun, make sure it is shooting to your expectations. Mine has been through 4 barrels ( the first Ruger barrel shot poorly, the second Ruger barrel was defective per Ruger, and the third Ruger barrel is now shooting no better than a CZ), the last being a Green Mountain 18" and is now sitting in the chassis with freezer tape to aid in the "bedding" of the action to the chassis. It is now showing some progress to shooting well enough for a PRS match. I like the trigger and think for me this is probably the best feature of this infuriating beast.

How does it shoot now? About on par with a factory CZ, so I am through throwing money at this thing. The Ruger will be relegated to either the safe or be sold.

Dropped the money needed to buy a Vudoo V-22 and now I'm extremely happy with no need to do anything but enjoy this fine rifle. The Ruger will be religated to either the safe or sold.

 

[blacknwhite11]

I understand both sides of the argument. My line of thinking was most problems with this rifle could be solved with a new quality chassis or stock. I think one of the big benefits that is over looked is the ability to switch barrels easily. Match barrels and new caliber conversions would be cool.

 

[Sieg]

Bought mine with the intention of converting it to a .17HM2 for controlling ground squirrels in the orchard behind the house.

I couldn't resist seeing how "precision" the gun was out of the box. It wasn't, 5 shot groups averaged .75-1 MOA at 50 yds due to 2 random flyers per 5 rounds. Tinkered and tested for hours and improved the group average by approximately .15".

The gun has a weak ejection issue that leaves a case on in the chamber unless the bolt is racked like rapid fire drills.

Shipped the gun back to Ruger and they replaced the bolt and barrel, but did nothing about the ejection issue. Accuracy is in the .4 - .7 MOA range now.

Hopefully someone will step up and make a .17HM2 barrel in the near future as the platform is a easy maintenance functional tool for my intended purpose.

IMO the mistake they made with the rifle was naming it a precision rimfire.