Ruger Precision Rimfire

#501
Noobshooter86 said:
So the rings i have are .6875 if i measured right...from center of ring to where it would sit at the top of the rail. Im thinking with a 44mm its not going to clear. I tried using the ring calculator, but i do not know the length of the rail to calculate what the drop is, factoring in the 30moa slant. This may be an easier question... Is anyone running a 44mm with a 1" tube? If so what height rings are you using? Im looking to keep the glass as low as possible and still be able to get a 50 yard zero.

I am planning on getting the 0moa mount from ruger, if what i have read from you all is right, that should work better for what type of shooting i will be doing. 100 yards max, probably between 50-75 (i have no ability to stretch out any further at my home range).
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Based on some of the replies here and other threads, I'm pretty sure you are going to need high rings. It's basically like an AR flat top handguard but the 30moa rail kicks the objective down even closer to the rail. Divide the out objective diameter (usually 3-4mm larger than objective) by 2 and convert to inches. If that number is smaller than your good. However my guess is that you will need a ~1.00" rise ring to clear if your not running lens caps. If you are running caps then more like 1.1" or so.
 
#502
Range update: I decided to lap my barrel a bit more to see if I could reduce flyers. I used JP Bore paste and JP bore shine for about 100 strokes each.

Results: good and bad. The good is that I reduced flyers at 50 yards with CCI Standard Velocity by a fair amount. In fact it's shooting about as well as FGM Target and FGM UltraMatch. Average 5 shot group of .5-.6" which is great. 15 shots string had avg of 1047fps, SD of 11.4 and ES of 35. Safely subsonic and consistent. It ran GREAT when squeaky clean putting up a .5" 10 shot ragged circular hole, but as it fouls in, it speeds up just enough to start going 50/50 super/subsonic.
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However the bad is something I didn't expect/think about: I speed up the barrel by about 20fps. The Federal Target ammo that was an average of 1108 with SD of 10 is now 1126 with SD of 11.2 and eat of 36, which is juusst over the speed of sound which is causing accuracy to degrade at ranges past 50.
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Anyone know of a good way to slow down a barrel?? I really never thought I'd ever be asking that question....
 
#503
straightshooter1 said:
Given all things equal, the longer barrel will decrease the MV. For example: using CCI Green Tag with a published MV of 1070 fps, I get an average of about 1080 fps out of my Ruger Precision Rimfire (18 in barrel) and 1061 fps out of my Ruger American that has a 22 in barrel. I see more decrease in barrels as they lengthen beyond 16 inches as I look at my very long list of 22 LR data composed of various types to LR rounds and barrel lengths.

I would expect a GM 22 in "match" barrel would have a very similar decrease compared to other shorter "match" barrels. Just how much difference would probably depend on the difference in twist rate too (faster twists would tend to slow a round down some).

So, in replacing the stock RPRF 18 in barrel with a GM barrel, you're going to see some decrease in MV.
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Thanks for the insight. I assumed it would give a slight increase to MV just like a centerfire round would. Still looking for someone with some actual proof and numbers.
 
#504
Guys thanks very much for all the info. Glad i was allowd to join this forum. Its pretty cool everyone isnt bashing me for my lack of knowledge. ? Im gonna go out on a limb here, hopefully this iant where i get bashed on, lol, but has anyone ran thunderbolt thru their rprf? Ill be completely honest, im not going to throw the gun away if it doesnt shoot 1/2" groups at 100, or drop another 500 to make that happen...i bought this gun to slow myself down a bit and enjoy shooting like i did as a kid with my old man plinking .22s. i havent even looked into real awesome match ammo, which im sure i will once i get my rifle, but the idea behind this gun is to be able to spend the day with my kids and not break the bank. Again, thanks alot guys i really appreciate you all taking the time to help me out.
 
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#505
Sorry one other thing, i asked this before but dont think anyone caught it due to my rambling...this 30moa rail...is this going to effect me getting a 50 yard zero? My optic (vortex copperhead) says to zero at 50. Do i need to position my scope a certain way, meaning more forward or more towards the rear, to achieve this zero? I guess i dont fully understand the slanted rail. To dumb it down, should i get the 0moa rail from ruger?
 
#506
Subwrx300 said:
Range update: I decided to lap my barrel a bit more to see if I could reduce flyers. I used JP Bore paste and JP bore shine for about 100 strokes each.

Results: good and bad. The good is that I reduced flyers at 50 yards with CCI Standard Velocity by a fair amount. In fact it's shooting about as well as FGM Target and FGM UltraMatch. Average 5 shot group of .5-.6" which is great. 15 shots string had avg of 1047fps, SD of 11.4 and ES of 35. Safely subsonic and consistent. It ran GREAT when squeaky clean putting up a .5" 10 shot ragged circular hole, but as it fouls in, it speeds up just enough to start going 50/50 super/subsonic.
View attachment 6939533
View attachment 6939536
However the bad is something I didn't expect/think about: I speed up the barrel by about 20fps. The Federal Target ammo that was an average of 1108 with SD of 10 is now 1126 with SD of 11.2 and eat of 36, which is juusst over the speed of sound which is causing accuracy to degrade at ranges past 50.
View attachment 6939534
View attachment 6939535

Anyone know of a good way to slow down a barrel?? I really never thought I'd ever be asking that question....
Click to expand...

I've seen certain ammo only start shining past 100yds, like Fed HV Match. Very tight groups out @200yds for me.
50ud groups were not so great though.
 
#507
Noobshooter86 said:
Sorry one other thing, i asked this before but dont think anyone caught it due to my rambling...this 30moa rail...is this going to effect me getting a 50 yard zero? My optic (vortex copperhead) says to zero at 50. Do i need to position my scope a certain way, meaning more forward or more towards the rear, to achieve this zero? I guess i dont fully understand the slanted rail. To dumb it down, should i get the 0moa rail from ruger?
Click to expand...

You should have no problem at all getting a 50-yard zero.

The purpose of the slanted rail is to allow the scope to "dial" to much longer range than would be possible with a flat rail. Visualize it this way: your scope is brand-new out of the box; the reticles are centered in the tube. Mounted on a flat rail, the line of sight through the scope is roughly parallel to the bore. In this "parallel" condition, you have to dial in some "up" to have the bullet intersect the line of sight at the desired zero range.

Mounting the new-out-out-of-the-box scope on the 30-MOA rail adds 30 MOA of elevation (roughly 15" at 50 yards or 31.5" at 100 yards) without touching the elevation turret. You will probably have to dial in some amount of "down" to achieve your 50-yard zero. This will allow more "up" to be dialed for long range. For example, with CCI Standard Velocity ammo and a 50-yard zero, you need add somewhere around 45 MOA or 13 mil of "up" to put crosshairs on and hit a target at 300 yards. Your scope is not going to have anywhere near enough elevation range to do that without the 30-MOA rail.

Sure, you can shoot Thunderbolt ammo out of your rifle. Just don't expect it to group better than a couple of inches at 50 yards or three times that at 100.

Hope this helps.
 
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#508
Hardpan said:
Thanks for the insight. I assumed it would give a slight increase to MV just like a centerfire round would. Still looking for someone with some actual proof and numbers.
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Will, if you want to look at some "actual proof" here's the spreadsheet data I've compiled that I drew my comments from:





PS: too bad I can't attach the spreadsheet
 

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#509
DownhillFromHere said:
You should have no problem at all getting a 50-yard zero.

The purpose of the slanted rail is to allow the scope to "dial" to much longer range than would be possible with a flat rail. Visualize it this way: your scope is brand-new out of the box; the reticles are centered in the tube. Mounted on a flat rail, the line of sight through the scope is roughly parallel to the bore. In this "parallel" condition, you have to dial in some "up" to have the bullet intersect the line of sight at the desired zero range.

Mounting the new-out-out-of-the-box scope on the 30-MOA rail adds 30 MOA of elevation (roughly 15" at 50 yards or 31.5" at 100 yards) without touching the elevation turret. You will probably have to dial in some amount of "down" to achieve your 50-yard zero. This will allow more "up" to be dialed for long range. For example, with CCI Standard Velocity ammo and a 50-yard zero, you need add somewhere around 45 MOA or 13 mil of "up" to put crosshairs on and hit a target at 300 yards. Your scope is not going to have anywhere near enough elevation range to do that without the 30-MOA rail.

Sure, you can shoot Thunderbolt ammo out of your rifle. Just don't expect it to group better than a couple of inches at 50 yards or three times that at 100.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
 
#510
I'm getting 65moa with Federal HV Match with consistant hits at 300yds.
I much prefer mil, but it's a deploy MOA reticle on my Bushnell Engage 30mm version, which is actually a nice optic.
Much better clarity than my SWFA 10x and it seems to track well to my surprise.
 
#511
Noobshooter86 said:
Im gonna go out on a limb here, hopefully this iant where i get bashed on, lol, but has anyone ran thunderbolt thru their rprf?
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I've run tests of a very wide range of ammo from various guns with various barrel lengths. My data has shown ALL Remington 22 LR ammo to the the worst of all the brands I've tested. And Thunderbolt was the worst of the Remington's 22 LR. Bases on my experience of firing a brick of them, I wouldn't recommend Thunderbolt ammo to anyone for any reason. One of the nastiest things Thunderbolts did in my guns was to lead the barrels up badly. In some cases, to the point I could hardly get a cleaning rod down the barrel. I was going to finish off that brick of Thunderbolts anyway, so I found solution for getting that lead out of the barrels . . . by finishing off with firing 10 rounds of jacketed bullets. Then cleaning wasn't so bad.
 
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#512
Noobshooter86 said:
Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
Click to expand...

Get any of Federal's bulk ammo. Their black box "Field Pack" has done quite well in my tests. . . . and way better than Thunderbolt
 
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#513
Noobshooter86 said:
Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
Click to expand...
CCI Standard velocity 5000 rounds for 250 https://www.targetsportsusa.com/cci...ammo-40-grain-lead-round-nose-0035-p-884.aspx

Federal Gold Medal Target .08¢ per round or less
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/9...nition-22-long-rifle-40-grain-lead-round-nose

SK Standard Plus .10¢ per round or less
https://www.targetsportsusa.com/sk-standard-plus-22-lr-ammo-40-grain-lrn-p-53529.aspx
 
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#515
#516
Noobshooter86 said:
Thank you ??
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Before you buy "bulk" find a store near you to buy 5-6 boxes each and be sure to ask the store if they have a case of it.

Go shoot it and if it shoots well, buy THE SAME LOT all that you can get or afford (whichever is greater). Rimfire ammo is notoriously fickle lot to lot.

If you order from website (target sports USA is good site) call them and see if they can send you a box or two from a few lots. Then call back and get as much as you can of the same lot.
 
#517
Noobshooter86 said:
Thankyou for the heads up. I havent seen the field pack, but will definitely look after the holiday. Have you tested the ammo that i have? The target grade?
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I couldn't find where you listed the ammo you have. Which target grade ammo do you have?

If you're talking about Federal . . . it does quite well and is at the top at whatever grade level of ammo you compare it to.
 
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#518
straightshooter1 said:
I couldn't find where you listed the ammo you have. Which target grade ammo do you have?
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I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
 
#519
Subwrx300 said:
Before you buy "bulk" find a store near you to buy 5-6 boxes each and be sure to ask the store if they have a case of it.

Go shoot it and if it shoots well, buy THE SAME LOT all that you can get or afford (whichever is greater). Rimfire ammo is notoriously fickle lot to lot.

If you order from website (target sports USA is good site) call them and see if they can send you a box or two from a few lots. Then call back and get as much as you can of the same lot.
Click to expand...

Will do man. Thank you for the advice.
What a wealth of knowledge ive stumbled upon...you guys ar awesome
 
#520
Subwrx300 said:
I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
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If it's AutoMatch, then it's just OK; quite good for just plinking. . . IMHO. I've had some batches that have shot surprisingly well. But, as you've pointed out. . . it really depends on the lot.
 
#521
Subwrx300 said:
I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
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It is auto match. Ughh...not too optimistic now
 
#523
straightshooter1 said:
AutoMatch is good value for plinking. But it's NOT good "Target" or "Match" ammo in anyway shape or form. It's kinda a misnomber to have "Match" as part of its name.
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Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
 
#524
straightshooter1 said:
Will, if you want to look at some "actual proof" here's the spreadsheet data I've compiled that I drew my comments from:





PS: too bad I can't attach the spreadsheet
Click to expand...

Ive have this downloaded already. Really great stuff bro. I’d still like to see results for this rifle with that barrel
 
#525
Noobshooter86 said:
Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
Click to expand...
Asked and answered already.

CCI Standard Velocity is .05¢ per round or so. Federal AutoMatch is .05¢ per round or so.
They are same price per round...

See below: same cost per bullet.
Screenshot_20180902-233924.png
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#526
Noobshooter86 said:
Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
Click to expand...
No bucket o' bullets is going to provide what serious rimfire shooters consider "acceptable" accuracy. The "standard" for cheap decent ammo is CCI Standard Velocity, which is relatively easy to find in bricks of 500 (10 50-round boxes, each box separating the rounds in a plastic tray). At big-box sporting goods stores, you'll probably spend $3.50-$4.00 per box of 50 for it. You can also find it in 100-round plastic boxes. If you can find it on sale, it's cheaper. Shipping often eats up on-line savings unless you buy thousands of rounds.

But the simple answer to your question of "what is a good, cheap kind of ammo" is quite safely answered, "CCI Standard Velocity." Your individual rifle may do quite well with any of the brads mentioned in this thread, but CCI SV is well-recognized and respected.

If all you're going to do is shoot soda cans at 25 yards, a bucket o' bullets is fine. But cheap $#!^ is still $#!^ and is more likely to gum up your rifle, as mentioned earlier. You asked how much the really good match ammo costs - in big box stores like Cabella's that actually carry it, you can spend $15-$25 per box of 50. But running Eley Ten-X in an RPRim is like running 100+-octane racing fuel in a V-6 Mustang. It will do better than normal gasoline, but the car simply cannot utilize the fuel's capability.

Listen, just read through this forum. A lot of your questions are addressed.
 
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#527
Hardpan said:
Ive have this downloaded already. Really great stuff bro. I’d still like to see results for this rifle with that barrel
Click to expand...

I'm really curious myself as I contemplate swapping to a match barrel and looking at the difference between a Shaw and GM barrel for this rifle. But, based on my collection of data, I'm leaning towards the Shaw a lot because of this issue.
 
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#528
Subwrx300 said:
Asked and answered already.

CCI Standard Velocity is .05¢ per round or so. Federal AutoMatch is .05¢ per round or so.
They are same price per round...
Click to expand...

+1 on this recommendation.

CCI SV is the best bang for the buck, IMHO. You can find some really good deals on it and I don't know how anyone can argue with 5 cents per round with the kind of outstanding consistency and accuracy one gets with it.
 
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#529
straightshooter1 said:
+1 on this recommendation.

CCI SV is the best bang for the buck, IMHO. You can find some really good deals on it and I don't know how anyone can argue with 5 cents per round with the kind of outstanding consistency and accuracy one gets with it.
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My apologies guys, sorry to ask the same question multiple times. Im getting ovrrerwhelmed with awesome info. I appreciate you all sharing your knowledge with me, that i know took you all a long time to figure out. And no disrespect meant at all toward the serious precision shooters here. You guys have been very helpful ??
 
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#530
Just in case anyone needed a reason to buy a new barrel for their RPR...

ER Shaw is running a 10% off promo with the code "LD10" at checkout. New barrel shipped for $246.96. I just paid for mine so that would make 3 left in stock.

? Couldn't resist the idea of tighter groups and possibly better SD. If it holds better than a .5" average at 50 and 1" at 100, that's a 50% increase in precision at extended range over the factory barrel with about a 1000 rounds through it. Here's to hoping!
 
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#532
FYI - there was a post over on RFC were a guy has talked to whistle pig into making some lightweight barrels if he can get 10 guys in one it.

I’m in for one for my boy.

Not affiliated with it other than I want one for my kid.

Price was “in line with CZ 455 barrels” - looked and they range between 172.00-198.00.


Given how light his barrels are it should shave considerable weight off the rifle
 
#533
Hey guys, new to the long range rimfire game and picked up a RPRim as a starter rifle. I figured even if I had to throw a barrel on it, I'd still come out cheaper than building a CZ. So far I'm liking the rifle, but haven't shot it much(about 100 rounds total). CCI SV's did ok at 50, but opened up more than I would have liked at 100. I had a few minutes on Saturday to shoot a 5 shot group at 50 with Aguila Pistol Match and they did better than the CCI's. The only thing I've done to the rifle was to Flitz the bore with a bore mop. I might mess around with bedding or mill out a new chassis if I get some free time at work.
 

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#534
Subwrx300 said:
Just in case anyone needed a reason to buy a new barrel for their RPR...

ER Shaw is running a 10% off promo with the code "LD10" at checkout. New barrel shipped for $246.96. I just paid for mine so that would make 3 left in stock.

? Couldn't resist the idea of tighter groups and possibly better SD. If it holds better than a .5" average at 50 and 1" at 100, that's a 50% increase in precision at extended range over the factory barrel with about a 1000 rounds through it. Here's to hoping!
Click to expand...

I just ordered one also! Thanks for the heads up. Should be a good shooter I’m hoping. Just need a timney 2 stage now
 
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#535
Noobshooter86 said:
So the rings i have are .6875 if i measured right...from center of ring to where it would sit at the top of the rail. Im thinking with a 44mm its not going to clear. I tried using the ring calculator, but i do not know the length of the rail to calculate what the drop is, factoring in the 30moa slant. This may be an easier question... Is anyone running a 44mm with a 1" tube? If so what height rings are you using? Im looking to keep the glass as low as possible and still be able to get a 50 yard zero.

I am planning on getting the 0moa mount from ruger, if what i have read from you all is right, that should work better for what type of shooting i will be doing. 100 yards max, probably between 50-75 (i have no ability to stretch out any further at my home range).
Click to expand...
I have owned the the Ruger for awhile now and have competed in 4 practical rim fire challenges witch ranges from 30 yrdsto300 yards. That being said part of my practice is no your limits targets which I find great for target acquisition and speed. I have the original 30 moa and I don’t see any reason you would need to change the 30 moa rail. Just my opinion.
 
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#536
Prcshooter said:
I have owned the the Ruger for awhile now and have competed in 4 practical rim fire challenges witch ranges from 30 yrdsto300 yards. That being said part of my practice is no your limits targets which I find great for target acquisition and speed. I have the original 30 moa and I don’t see any reason you would need to change the 30 moa rail. Just my opinion.
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Completely agree in most cases, but his scope has only 60MOA total vertical adjustment to begin with.

Assuming zeroing near middle to just above center, he is going to be REEEALLLY close to the top of the travel when zeroed. And if his mount is off left to right, the erector may hit the side walls well before he gets to zero. So in this case, without changing scopes it MIGHT need a different base to allow zeroing the scope at 40-50yds.

Had a similar issue with a Nikon Buckmaster on my 17HMR and a 20MOA base: it literally just zeros at 100 with about 5 moa to spare but I cannot dial left more than 3 moa from zero without bumping the wall of scope body. Problem disappears at 150-175 because I gain more room as tube gets wider.
 
#538
Subwrx300 said:
Completely agree in most cases, but his scope has only 60MOA total vertical adjustment to begin with.

Assuming zeroing near middle to just above center, he is going to be REEEALLLY close to the top of the travel when zeroed. And if his mount is off left to right, the erector may hit the side walls well before he gets to zero. So in this case, without changing scopes it MIGHT need a different base to allow zeroing the scope at 40-50yds.

Had a similar issue with a Nikon Buckmaster on my 17HMR and a 20MOA base: it literally just zeros at 100 with about 5 moa to spare but I cannot dial left more than 3 moa from zero without bumping the wall of scope body. Problem disappears at 150-175 because I gain more room as tube gets wider.
Click to expand...

Hey, i apologise if i am interrupting, but are you talking about my scope?
 
#544
elfster1234 said:
Anyone have any suggestions on how to make this rpr eject brass any better?
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There is a thread (either this one or one of the other in Rimfire) that discussed bending the spring clip inward toward the center of the bolt. Not sure how much but it seems like it can't hurt to bend it in to help.

Hopefully the poster that did this can chime in and send link or steps.
 
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#545
Quick Stock Mod for RPR:. I really like this rifle but have found the stock pad to be a bit harsh on my collar bone. So I decided to shave/round the edges to improve feel when shouldering and it's 100% better, at least to me. I did this not becu of recoil but because over multiple long strings, the pad feels like a knife in my shoulder.

If you are like me and will practice prone or even barricade work for hours at a time, do this mod if the stock is even slightly uncomfortable. It will feel virtually identical to a Pachymar Decelerator or similar pad on other precision rifles.

15 seconds with a sharp exacto knife and 30 seconds on belt sander, this is what I have now:
IMG_20180905_131525.jpg

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#546
New ER Shaw barrel is installed!
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Haven't shot it yet (tomorrow) but a few things stuck out about the factory barrel vs Shaw barrel :

FACTORY Barrel:
- the Factory Ruger barrel had some shitty, gritty, sandy antiseize compound all over barrel nut, receiver threads and shoulder of barrel. Could easily be part of issue for flyers for factory barrels.
- Factory Barrel barrel came right out with very slight pressure (basically none) so it's on the loose side of tolerances, at least in my barrel/action.

Versus ER Shaw:
-ER Shaw barrel was SSUUPPPEEER stupid tight. Had to heat up receiver and in still needed rubber mallet to get into action. There will be ZERO movement inside action.
- Bolt closes fairly hard now, so I'm guessing the headspace is slight off (rear camming surface on bolt handle) on new barrel or just very tight fit of bolt face to barrel breech.
-Machining looks 99% but did see a small in extractor channel but it's so damn small.
-Bore looks great but looks mean squat so have a bunch of ammo to test with including:
Federal AutoMatch (just for comparison to last barrel)
FGM Target (shoots .6-.8@50 in factory)
CCI SV (shoots .5-.7 @50 in factory)
ELEY Tenex new
ELEY Contact new
ELEY Target shoots .5-.7 @50 in factory
ELEY Force new
ELEY Edge new
And might try: SK Standard Plus and a few others

A gunsmith that knows 22lrs might be able to shed some light on this. I'm no expert in this arena but IIRC, some rimfires like Savage 93 and I think this action, headspace from rear surface of bolt handle in the down position after camming over the bolt.

Review up over weekend after shooting a bit. Stay tuned...
 
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#547
Subwrx300 said:
New ER Shaw barrel is installed!
View attachment 6941362

View attachment 6941363
View attachment 6941364
View attachment 6941365
Haven't shot it yet (tomorrow) but a few things stuck out about the factory barrel vs Shaw barrel :

FACTORY Barrel:
- the Factory Ruger barrel had some shitty, gritty, sandy antiseize compound all over barrel nut, receiver threads and shoulder of barrel. Could easily be part of issue for flyers for factory barrels.
- Factory Barrel barrel came right out with very slight pressure (basically none) so it's on the loose side of tolerances, at least in my barrel/action.

Versus ER Shaw:
-ER Shaw barrel was SSUUPPPEEER stupid tight. Had to heat up receiver and in still needed rubber mallet to get into action. There will be ZERO movement inside action.
- Bolt closes fairly hard now, so I'm guessing the headspace is slight off (rear camming surface on bolt handle) on new barrel or just very tight fit of bolt face to barrel breech.
-Machining looks 99% but did see a small in extractor channel but it's so damn small.
-Bore looks great but looks mean squat so have a bunch of ammo to test with including:
Federal AutoMatch (just for comparison to last barrel)
FGM Target (shoots .6-.8@50 in factory)
CCI SV (shoots .5-.7 @50 in factory)
ELEY Tenex new
ELEY Contact new
ELEY Target shoots .5-.7 @50 in factory
ELEY Force new
ELEY Edge new
And might try: SK Standard Plus and a few others

A gunsmith that knows 22lrs might be able to shed some light on this. I'm no expert in this arena but IIRC, some rimfires like Savage 93 and I think this action, headspace from rear surface of bolt handle in the down position after camming over the bolt.

Review up over weekend after shooting a bit. Stay tuned...
Click to expand...
You wint be disappointed, it will be a shooter for sure.. congrats..
 
#548
Quick preview... OMG! This ER Shaw barrel is AMAZING! Here are shots 6-20 (first 5 were breakin with bore snake). Seriously couldn't believe the improvment... Especially only 20 rounds in!

For reference, they are 5 shot groups at 50yds and aiming dot is .2":. This is Federal Target. Full review/test to come later today or tomorrow.
IMG_20180907_082835.jpg
 
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#549
All i can say us TOLD YOU.....lol
Ive had mine in for approx.300-400 rnds. And it just keeps getting better, can't believe it... And im a die hard bartlein, kreiger,shilin fan.... Keep us posted.
 
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