I purchased the PSR limited edition scope and would like to remove the emblem from the objective. I was under the impression this was more or less a "sticker," but after receiving my scope it's pretty clear the emblem is cemented into place. Anyone else have experience removing this thing?
Rifle Scopes S&B PSR Scope - how to take the gold emblem off?
- Thread starter MTxTwelve
- Start date
I'm hoping you are referring to the objective bell of the scope, not the actual lens.
I'm pretty sure a 10" angle grinder will get the job done but I doubt you would like the results.
On a serious note, unless you know what form of adhesive was used, you are just going to have to try a few different solvents and hope for the best.
Your primary concern is going to be keeping the more aggressive solvents off the objective lens.
I would suggest a trip to a camera store and pick up a UV filter of a size to fit the threads in your objective bell and, even then, once the filter is installed, use some painter's tape to help seal the joint.
Now about solvents:
Solvents are usually pretty good at breaking down glues. They need time to work though and just using a brush may not get you the results you need. A small makeup sponge held in place with a rubber band might be a good idea. Also, stand the scope on end, objective side down and use a couple of paper towels underneath to handle any errant extra liquid.
Water is considered a universal solvent but it probably won't do much in this case.
You might try isopropyl alcohol next - common and easy to get, at a pharmacy you can get it up to about 80% pure. It is also called rubbing alcohol but your won't find it very pure at the local supermarket.
Ethanol is another decent solvent and you can get it up to 98% purity. Everclear from the liquor store if they sell it in your state.
More aggressive and likely to work on cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) is acetone (nail polish remover). Use caution with this stuff, no breathing fumes and avoid direct contact with the skin. It is also pretty flammable so no open flames in the area.
Lacquer thinner and MEK are next but more difficult to obtain and even more precautions needed in re fumes and contact. They are also harder to obtain but a local body shop or automotive paint store may be able to fix you up with a small bottle.
Before you go into all this chemical madness, a fine knife blade, carefully applied under the edge might just pry the thing up and then you can use the solvents to clean off any residue.
I'm pretty sure a 10" angle grinder will get the job done but I doubt you would like the results.
On a serious note, unless you know what form of adhesive was used, you are just going to have to try a few different solvents and hope for the best.
Your primary concern is going to be keeping the more aggressive solvents off the objective lens.
I would suggest a trip to a camera store and pick up a UV filter of a size to fit the threads in your objective bell and, even then, once the filter is installed, use some painter's tape to help seal the joint.
Now about solvents:
Solvents are usually pretty good at breaking down glues. They need time to work though and just using a brush may not get you the results you need. A small makeup sponge held in place with a rubber band might be a good idea. Also, stand the scope on end, objective side down and use a couple of paper towels underneath to handle any errant extra liquid.
Water is considered a universal solvent but it probably won't do much in this case.
You might try isopropyl alcohol next - common and easy to get, at a pharmacy you can get it up to about 80% pure. It is also called rubbing alcohol but your won't find it very pure at the local supermarket.
Ethanol is another decent solvent and you can get it up to 98% purity. Everclear from the liquor store if they sell it in your state.
More aggressive and likely to work on cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) is acetone (nail polish remover). Use caution with this stuff, no breathing fumes and avoid direct contact with the skin. It is also pretty flammable so no open flames in the area.
Lacquer thinner and MEK are next but more difficult to obtain and even more precautions needed in re fumes and contact. They are also harder to obtain but a local body shop or automotive paint store may be able to fix you up with a small bottle.
Before you go into all this chemical madness, a fine knife blade, carefully applied under the edge might just pry the thing up and then you can use the solvents to clean off any residue.
I would try a heat gun that removes stickers first. It may soften it enough to just lift it off easily. At least it won't hurt your scope if you don't try to turn it red!!
i second the heatgun idea. Although if you over heat any epoxy that was used in the construction that may be holding a lens in place or something, that may cause some issues. If it were me, I would try peeling pressure while heating the embem directly. The adhesion material should give way gently. Or you could just leave it...
Sorry to be obvious but, why do you want it off? Is this a duty weapon? I cannot think of any good reason to interfere with it.
I have the same scope on a rifle I use as a duty weapon. I got it in spite of the medallion, because I got a great deal on it. I had concerns about it, at first, but the finish on the medallion is antique brass, so the shine is not excessive. If I were to use this rifle in a situation where the presence of the emblem could be a concern, then the rifle, along with me and the rest of my gear would be fully camouflaged, so I chose to leave it intact. If you must remove it, I would try one of the commercially available products for decal removal, as mine appears to be attached using double sided tape. Just keep it away from the lenses and any area where the chemical could compromise a seal. As stated by others, it still might be best to talk to S&B first, as doing this may void the warranty.
Sure.
Close the front lens cap.
Wrap a length of 6-8 lb test (maybe more) Stren around each index finger, thumbs on lens cap, push scope away while pulling monofilament toward you and cut the badge away.
Than use a natural citrus oil to loosen the decal glue.
and be advised rumour has it there is a QR code under there so decide which look you like better.....gold emblem or QR code.
If my method ruins your scope.....well....you should have asked S&B.
Close the front lens cap.
Wrap a length of 6-8 lb test (maybe more) Stren around each index finger, thumbs on lens cap, push scope away while pulling monofilament toward you and cut the badge away.
Than use a natural citrus oil to loosen the decal glue.
and be advised rumour has it there is a QR code under there so decide which look you like better.....gold emblem or QR code.
If my method ruins your scope.....well....you should have asked S&B.
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Glad that worked out for you. I was curious as to where this would lead. I'd be careful though: judging by the image resolution, the intel agencies aren't far from determining who you are by that satellite image of the QR code 
Did you use a .05 megapixel camera to take the pics....lol J/K Glad it worked out for you I wouldn't have wanted that thing on my scope either.
Obviously he is using Tinypic as his new image host since photobucket went down. Really should use imgur or load direct though.
Good glad it worked out.
I know the monofilament trick is similar to what windshield guys do to cut glue and its how you remove annoying advertizing badges from your car.
Good glad it worked out.
I know the monofilament trick is similar to what windshield guys do to cut glue and its how you remove annoying advertizing badges from your car.
Yikes. Uploaded those photos from my iphone - no idea why they're so tiny. Redemption:
Pre-removal:
Pre-removal:
Ha! The contract is with SOCOM, so you're looking at any platform with the potential requirement for higher magnification: M2010, Mk13, MSR, Mk20, Mk17, M110, Mk11, to name a few...
Yes. I think that scope has built in "appreciation" as opposed to "depreciation".
I finally decided to remove the badge on my scope, in order to keep it from getting damaged, as I use this scope on my work rifle. The fishing line method worked great for me. Thanks pmclaine. However, instead of the clean markings and QRC, as in the pictures above, I found that some knuckledragger at the factory had apparently taken a Dremel tool and ground most of the markings off, down to bare metal. I was pretty pissed. I haven't addressed it with S&B yet, but if you're thinking of getting one of these scopes for a clone, be aware that some of them have been defaced.
[QUOTE = "MTxTwelve, publicación: 6534549, miembro: 112448"]
Compré el visor de edición limitada PSR y me gustaría eliminar el emblema del objetivo. Tenía la impresión de que esto era más o menos una "pegatina", pero después de recibir mi visor, queda bastante claro que el emblema está pegado en su lugar. ¿Alguien más tiene experiencia en la eliminación de esta cosa?
[/CITAR] I need this emblem I can pay , [email protected]
Compré el visor de edición limitada PSR y me gustaría eliminar el emblema del objetivo. Tenía la impresión de que esto era más o menos una "pegatina", pero después de recibir mi visor, queda bastante claro que el emblema está pegado en su lugar. ¿Alguien más tiene experiencia en la eliminación de esta cosa?
[/CITAR] I need this emblem I can pay , [email protected]
Thin dental floss after just a little time with a hair dryer works good as well.
and the hair dryer won’t get too hot as you can easily do with a heat gun.
Also works great on dealership emblems on your car/truck as well so you don’t have to advertise for them or wax around the damn things.
and the hair dryer won’t get too hot as you can easily do with a heat gun.
Also works great on dealership emblems on your car/truck as well so you don’t have to advertise for them or wax around the damn things.
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