By your definition. This is literally how all non bushing dies work because of the wide array of possible brass thicknesses. Guaranteed plastic deformation gets you more consistent sizing in theory. If you don't like it, that's fine, I get it, but I don't understand why you're so surprised that a non-bushing die doesn't act like a bushing die. Overworking brass is a non-issue if you anneal regularly.
Any suggestions for my second run? I ordered some one shot to see if the lube was an issue.
I use one shot but I align the case mouths facing me and spray the cases at a 30 deg. ish angle to get lube on the inside of the neck and overapply. Roll the cases 180, and do it again. Toss them in a bin and wait an hour or so, then size. Haven't had issues doing it that way.
I do the same thing when spraying lube on my cases. I have never waited though and sized almost immediately, I’ll give that a shot. Have never had a stuck case before this is a first for me, I have always FL sized on whidden and Forster does with no issues.
10:1 ratio of 99% Isopropyl alcohol to liquid lanolin oil will be the smoothest. Atleast it was on my M-Series dies.
If you didn’t get plastic deformation with a bushing die, you wouldn’t hold the next bullet. Plastics deformation is essential. Without it, you’ve done no resizing.
I have a zero as well. I like the SAC dies and that’s what I’ve moved too. Now if SAC will ever restock a .261 decapping mandrel I’ll be on 1 pull reloading for both cartridges.
What is your preferred vendor for these two items, or does it not matter, just whoever is cheapest on eBay?
I purchased mine on Amazon only because I didn't have time to go look locally. But I don't use any specific brands of either!
Do the same mixture with 99 alcohol but use rcbs lube instead of lanolin. It's water based so it's super easy to clean off with some warm water and soap in a bucket or just a damp wet rag.
