Savage 10 bolt problem, ejector stuck

SOE_technician

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 30, 2013
163
0
Boro/Nash
Hello SH,
So was out doing to some practice and had a malfunction. The gun still fires it just won't eject the brass the ejector pin is jammed down into the bolt face and is snagged up. The retention pin used to release it just won't budge this rifle has around 400 rds through it and is about 7 months old. Any ideas? image.jpg
 
I've had this happen once during load testing when the loads got too hot. You need to punch out that ejector retention pin and remove the ejector and spring to check for damage. The pin is tough to get out and if I remember right only comes out in one direction. Judging by the ring on your bolt face from the primers leaking you maybe running your handloads too hot.
 
Savage 10 bolt problem, ejector stuck

Very common yet annoying Savage issue. Often seen if you pop primers.

Push on the ejector with a punch or similar, it might give way. Some oil or lube will help.

As for the retention pin...try pushing the pin the other way if the first way doesn't work; you will need a punch and a hammer.

Good time to get a SSS Enhanced Ejection kit, $8 from Gunshack.com and it works GREAT.
 
Remove retention pin. The stuck ejector isn't causing the pin to bind, so it WILL come out. Soaking in PB Blast or Kroil should help.

Soak the bolthead in PB Blast or Kroil and try to work the ejector out. Smack it down on the workbench and poke at it, but don't do anything that will jam it deeper.

If you can get it out, you can either drill it out or replace the bolthead...which is usually an easy and inexpensive thing to do, but alas, times in the gun industry are far from normal.

Either way, there's a 99.9% chance you'll need a new ejector spring. Count on it.
 
Remove retention pin. The stuck ejector isn't causing the pin to bind, so it WILL come out. Soaking in PB Blast or Kroil should help.

Soak the bolthead in PB Blast or Kroil and try to work the ejector out. Smack it down on the workbench and poke at it, but don't do anything that will jam it deeper.

If you can get it out, you can either drill it out or replace the bolthead...which is usually an easy and inexpensive thing to do, but alas, times in the gun industry are far from normal.

Either way, there's a 99.9% chance you'll need a new ejector spring. Count on it.

where is a good place for kroil
 
I've had that same problem with primer debris.

Used a loaded round to push on the extractor with the bolthead facing down and was able to get out the debris and have the ejector working again.

Doesn't help today, but that SSS Ejection kit I mentioned works AWESOME.
 
With hot loads I have had the ejector deform around the retention pin (the cross pin). After driving out the cross pin I was able to beat on the bolt face with a rubber mallet and eventually got the ejector out enough to grab it with some needlenose. The spring was ok, but the recess cut into the ejector that the cross pin fits in was deformed on the front side which is why it was difficult to remove. The rubber mallet did work though. same idea as tapping it on a work bench.
 
Thanks everyone , needless to say in not happy to find out my savage that has been doing so well for me has a damn weak link but guess that is part of it . Was pretty mad bout it was my first time shooting over 1000yds using my hand loads and they were blowing my mind then ill extra smoke and a shell not popping out I saw the problem . Can I expect this to persist?
 
As was said above it is a common problem. I really like my savage, but the ejector issue can be a pain. I would bet if you shoot those same loads the problem will repeat at some point, unless you upgrade to the SSS Ejection kit.
 
As others have said, this is a common occurrence with Savages. Had this happen 3-4 times on my 600 yards IBS and F-class guns. I always carry a spare ejector, spring, and cross pin in my range bag when I go to a meet. A lot of folks highly recommend the SSS kit, for very good reason. I run my .260 Ackleys pretty hot, and I have to watch my brass pretty close or I'll end up with loose primer pockets. If/when this happens, there is a pretty decent chance that I'm going to get some primer blow-by that may end up torching an ejector.

Having said all that, I really don't think its a design flaw or problem with the Savage. Its just something that happens when we push our loads and/or brass too far. Never met anyone who has squashed an ejector with factory loads...everybody seems to be running handloads when these failures occur. My wife has burned out a couple 6br barrels without an ejector failure (107gr SMK, 30 gr Varget, BR4 Primers). Never really pushed 6br real hard though, 2900-2925fps seems to be a good accuracy "node" for that bullet, and properly neck turned brass lasts quite a few reloads.
 
Can I expect this to persist?

No, not with reasonable charges and pressures.

I've over 7k rounds through my 10FP, I've never "taken it easy", and I've never had the issue. 47.5gr Varget + 155 Scenar for 2975fps, and 45.5gr Varget + 175smk for 2725fps have been my primary loads. I've never blown a primer.

Keep pressures below the point where you blow/pierce primers and you won't have ejector issues.
 
No, not with reasonable charges and pressures.

I've over 7k rounds through my 10FP, I've never "taken it easy", and I've never had the issue. 47.5gr Varget + 155 Scenar for 2975fps, and 45.5gr Varget + 175smk for 2725fps have been my primary loads. I've never blown a primer.

Keep pressures below the point where you blow/pierce primers and you won't have ejector issues.

being as i was runing 45 grains with lapua 155 scenar and 46 with 155 amax doesnt mak sense much why mine would be over pressure and your not right ?
 
being as i was runing 45 grains with lapua 155 scenar and 46 with 155 amax doesnt mak sense much why mine would be over pressure and your not right ?

Don't know what to tell you, man. Blowing primers is generally a pretty damned good indicator of high chamber pressure. I agree 46gr 4064 doesn't sound super hot with a 155, but as you know, every rifle is different.

Stop blowing primers and you'll stop sticking ejectors.
 
Check your scales? Powders are not the same batch to batch so adjustments have to be made. Regardless of what your scale is telling you the truth and facts are found at the end of the case, not at the scale. If you are blowing, flattening, piercing primers the loads are too hot. Same applies if you are flowing brass on the case.
 
High pressure in the Savage .308 chamber is not especially unusual, and the charge weight may not be at fault. Savage .308 chambers I have loaded for have sometimes tended to be shorter throated than other makes. I believe it is crucial to find the lands with the bullet you're loading and then work down the seater stem to ensure a minimum of .010", and better, .020" jump. For folks who wonder why SAAMI specs and factory loads are so conservative, this is a valid answer.

I would soak the ejector channel with PB Blaster and then set the bolt away for at least a week. Tentatively/gently tapping the ejector inward with a matching diameter punch may free it up enough that it may get it working again, but usually, a replacement is in order. If you've done it once, order several sets of replacement parts to save your time afterward, and subsequently keep a sharper eye on bullet jump and pressure indicators on your fired brass. The price of the parts is less annoying than waiting time after time for the parts to ship.

This is yet another reason why I firmly believe that in the long run, hotter loads aren't the answer to any truly useful question.

Like others above, I don't think it's a Savage issue unless someone can report this happening with factory ammo. Rather, I consider it a minor boon to Savage owners, as the shorter leade may add some life to the barrel's throat. Mostly, I think its an example of exuberance on the handloader's part, and may be a necessary lesson in handloading the .308 for the Savage factory chamber.

Greg
 
Last edited:
I have had factory ammo do the same in my savage - Hornady 168 TAP to be specific. I should note this happened in the summer in Tucson, with temps around 105.
I don't usually shoot factory 308, so cannot comment on how common it occurs. Only happened once for me.
 
I have had factory ammo do the same in my savage - Hornady 168 TAP to be specific. I should note this happened in the summer in Tucson, with temps around 105.
I don't usually shoot factory 308, so cannot comment on how common it occurs. Only happened once for me.

This is the first report that I remember seeing where somebody was running factory ammo. I can certainly see where the very high temps could contribute to pressure. Did you replace with the SSS kit or go with stock replacement?

Just screwing around this morning I found a Savage or Stevens .223 bolt head in my junk drawer that had the squished ejector. Pretty sure this was from a rifle that I dropped a .223AI barrel on for p-dogs. Hot loads, longs strings of fire, and 100+ temps did that ejector in. Installed a new Savage ejector and tossed it into the not-so-junky junk drawer. Should of made a "how to video" while I was at it. Not much to it though...a little kroil, brass hammer, a proper sized punch, a little cursing, and PRESTO! Once you get the pin out its really pretty easy to coax the ejector out by tapping the bolt upside down on a block of wood. I've had to drill a couple out that were too deformed to come out otherwise, but it usually isn't necessary.
 
Thanks everyone , needless to say in not happy to find out my savage that has been doing so well for me has a damn weak link but guess that is part of it . Was pretty mad bout it was my first time shooting over 1000yds using my hand loads and they were blowing my mind then ill extra smoke and a shell not popping out I saw the problem . Can I expect this to persist?
Follow the guidance posted regarding your loads.

Regarding the problem - grab a large ziplock bag and put the bolt in it. Poke a hole for your punch and punch the pin out. That will contain the parts so the "magic floor" can't swallow them up. Clean it up and put it back together - problem solved normally.

I'm roughly 2000 rounds down with my Savage 10 FP with no issues at all. I do not reload .308 - for what that's worth - and shoot everything I can find from 149 mil-spec surplus to "it costs too much" match grade 168's.

I would not be concerned it will persist if you get your reloads right.
 
I did not have the SSS kit - have been trying to order one but the guys at Sharp Shooter Supply are REALLY difficult to get ahold of. They no longer answer their phones, and email returns are random at best.
I read above where GunShack carries the SSS kit, but only see one for 300 blackout.
Anyway, I do feel like the high temp had a lot to do with it. Have moved to Colorado, and not had any issues yet.
 
SSS created the Enhanced Ejection kit in part because short OAL cartridges (such as 300 AAC) have ejection issues from Savages and the kit fixed it.

Just so happened it works FANTASTIC with other cartridges, too.

In short, the kit from Gunshack is the SAME KIT that SSS sells. I know, I've got 3 from SSS and they were identical to the Gunshack offering.
 
SSS created the Enhanced Ejection kit in part because short OAL cartridges (such as 300 AAC) have ejection issues from Savages and the kit fixed it.

Just so happened it works FANTASTIC with other cartridges, too.

In short, the kit from Gunshack is the SAME KIT that SSS sells. I know, I've got 3 from SSS and they were identical to the Gunshack offering.
Thanks for explaining I was wondering the same thing . So this will fix my problem. Gunna order a couple
 
Follow the guidance posted regarding your loads.

Regarding the problem - grab a large ziplock bag and put the bolt in it. Poke a hole for your punch and punch the pin out. That will contain the parts so the "magic floor" can't swallow them up. Clean it up and put it back together - problem solved normally.

I'm roughly 2000 rounds down with my Savage 10 FP with no issues at all. I do not reload .308 - for what that's worth - and shoot everything I can find from 149 mil-spec surplus to "it costs too much" match grade 168's.

I would not be concerned it will persist if you get your reloads right.


Thanks but since I am a reloaded never had probs with factory ammo either but that stuf also pails in comparison to the handloads I have been making for 1000yds . I am
Much lower the the .308 max load for 155 Scenars but I did have to test the upper limits to milk all the performance I could . It this now i will have to inch my way back to avoid this problem indeed.