I have a 338LM stock Savage I bought in Jan 2012. From the start I had issues with cases sticking in the chamber after firing. Not a unique problem from what I've seen. I sent it back to Savage and they polished the chamber and it worked well. Untill a couple weeks ago. Cases sticking again. I'm not happy with the idea of sending it back to the factory once a year to have them "fix" it. I'm thinking of possibly going with a new barrel. Just kicking around ideas right now. I really dig the accuracy of the rifle, but I'm not happy about the stuck cases. Any thoughts?
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Savage 110 FCP-HS 338LM stuck cases/ rebarrel
- Thread starter shooter1054
- Start date
Unfortunately, you and I and many others have had the same problem. I didn't send mine in while under warranty so I'm just dealing with it for now.
Are these reloads? What brass are you using? I have not had an issue with my Savage 110 FCP HS Precision with factory Lapua ammo or my own reloads. I have loaded up to 93.5grains of Retumbo with no issues. I am currently using a load of 92 grains of Retumbo that shoots good and no extraction issues. I also use Lapua brass.
If it is Hornady brass its going to stick. My own BA110 and two 110FCP's all on the samd day had sticking cases with the Hornady rounds. No problems on any of the guns with Lapua brass and even the Bertram brass HSM uses. Hopefully that is the issue. Just sold my last Hornady 285's to a Sako owner he loves um.
FGMM will also stick after being reloaded 3 to 5 times, I'm switching to Winchester hope it will give me more reloads per case.
Reloads. Hornady and Nosler brass. All my brass comes out several thousandths under spec. hasn;t mattered if the case stuck or not. I'm running warm loads, but not hot. Using 84.5 R-19. Doesn't make sense to me that some will stick while others pop right out. Also doesn't make sense that this seems to be an exclusively Savage problem. I have not heard of this issue with any other make. If the brass was the sole problem, then it should in my mind also be a problem with Remington, Barrett, DTA, etc. Where am I wrong in my thinking? I have some Lapua brass that I just bought used, but I haven't loaded it up yet. Not going to do anything with this for a bit as I have a prairie dog shoot at the end of the month. Just trying to get some leg work done now so when I'm ready I can just get it done. If anything.
I've used primarily Hornady brass and Lapua brass with no issues at all. Even when my loads where so hot the bolt lifted hard but extraction was never a issue and besides the heavy bolt lift I had ejector marks on the brass cases as well (this load was 98.0gr. of H1000 and a 250gr. bullet I don't recommend this load as it was to hot in my gun). I've even shot factory Ruag .338 Lapua 300gr. and 250gr. bullets/ammo thru my gun with no issues.
My barrel is on a older Savage 112v Series J action with the 1.055" threads not the newer actions with the larger 1.125" threads.
What dies are you using to resize the brass?
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
My barrel is on a older Savage 112v Series J action with the 1.055" threads not the newer actions with the larger 1.125" threads.
What dies are you using to resize the brass?
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Funny that frank chimed in right before i was about to mention bartlein barrels!
Yes, by all means rebarrel it. I strongly recommend going with a bartlein barrel and just have a gunsmith chamber and install it like a standard Remington (shouldered barrel instead of barrel nut).
Even though its more difficult and more expensive to do it this way, its a better way to go. More solid, and you can have a heavier barrel (much needed on the 338lm)
And while you're at it, add at least 2 inches, preferably 4, to the length of the barrel. 26", stock, is too short -its not long enough to get a complete burn of some of the slower powders, and you're robbing yourself of as much as 150-200fps.
Yes, by all means rebarrel it. I strongly recommend going with a bartlein barrel and just have a gunsmith chamber and install it like a standard Remington (shouldered barrel instead of barrel nut).
Even though its more difficult and more expensive to do it this way, its a better way to go. More solid, and you can have a heavier barrel (much needed on the 338lm)
And while you're at it, add at least 2 inches, preferably 4, to the length of the barrel. 26", stock, is too short -its not long enough to get a complete burn of some of the slower powders, and you're robbing yourself of as much as 150-200fps.
I would resize the Lapua brass you have and try it. I am sure you will not have any more problems with stuck cases. After reading many posts on stuck cases using Hornady brass I spent the money on the Lapua brass so I would not have to deal with that problem.
Need to trim brass as well, use only lapua brass for reloading! You guys are running way hot! Myload of 87gr of h1000 is good to a mile behind a 300gr smk
Unfortunately I have problems and I've always used lapua brass. What's weird is sometimes they pop right out and others they stick and I have to put a rod in through the muzzle to knock them out
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Unfortunately all my savage rifles suffered from the same problem. I sent them all into the factory to have the chambers polished and it worked for a while, until the same problem popped back up. It got to the point where I couldn't be bothered to pound on the bolt handle every time I wanted to load another round so I sold them all. It is extremely upsetting too as they were all great shooters out of the box.
A buddy of mine has a 110ba and case lubes all his rounds before he fires them and has no extraction issues even with honady brass. I'm hoping that will work for my 110hs
I'm using a set of Reddings as well with no issues. They are FL sizing die set with the interchangeable neck bushings and competition seater.I use Imperial sizing die wax on my .338 Lapua cases when sizing. There is a lot of surface area you are sizing on the .338 Lapua case. It helps with the sizing of the case and the effort to do it and the risk of getting the case stuck in the sizing die in my opinion is very low vs. using other case lubes. (Hornady case lube is still my favorite though).
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
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