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savage model 12 LRP .260 rem

woodland-ghost

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 14, 2012
166
1
36
Tennessee
just ordered this gun and itll be here this week and want to go ahead and pick up some supplies for it to go ahead and get reloading and shooing.

Right now I can get 130 or 140 vld's, and 123 Amax's

Only powder I can get that "should" work good in it is reloader 17...ill end up with H4350 most likely whenever I can get my hands on it.



Anyone have this gun, or just some advice on which bullets to start off with if you just had to pick 1?

26 inch barrel and 1:8 twist
 
I also bought this gun but it came with a defective stock so had to send stock back for new one. Should get it tuesday.
i have only been able to find a4350, and h4831sc, have 140g amax, 139g scenars, and 140g berger hybrid.
Looking for load info as well ive heard that seating depth can make a big differance.
 
I have this rifle and found 140gr Amax or BTHP over 41.8gr H4350 in Lapua brass with Win LR primers to be most accurate. Velocity is 2775fps according to the Magneto Speed. I got sticky bolt at 42.0gr and stuck bolt at 42.3gr. I don't have my book in front of me but the OAL was on the longish side. Jump distance was optimal at 10-15 thousandths from lands.

As for turning .308 brass into .260 I tried that with LC brass and it required neck turning. Thinner brass might work better. I think before Lapua was available a lot of folks started with Win made .243 brass and necked up.
 
demoman, out of curiosity what does your bolt face look like? Mine is showing some cratering and scorching after only 500 rounds. No blown or pierced primers and the pockets are still plenty tight on my Lapua brass.


Fortunately PTG make replacement bolt heads. I need to call them and have them explain the difference between .308 and the Lapua bolt face option.
 
I have an lrp and the best load of mine was 140 smk,41 grains h4350,210m primersand lapua brass. It gave 2700 fps with remington brass and 2720 with lapua. I also tried 142 matchkings and 139 lapuas but never tried vlds. The 140 matchkings were always easiest to find. My oal with comparator was 2.250 for the 140s which is about a 25 thou jump in my gun. Everyone says the vlds like it right close to the lands but i never tried them so good luck. I also tried 123 smk and 107 but my gun hated them do to the twist im pretty sure.
 
demoman, out of curiosity what does your bolt face look like? Mine is showing some cratering and scorching after only 500 rounds. No blown or pierced primers and the pockets are still plenty tight on my Lapua brass.


Fortunately PTG make replacement bolt heads. I need to call them and have them explain the difference between .308 and the Lapua bolt face option.
I've got a thousand or so rounds out'a my LRP 6.5. Most were 140 or 130 grainers pushed by 41.6 gr of h4350. Far as I recollect I have no bolt head cratering at all. I will however look it over tonight. I had all sorts of other issue, but not that!
 
I've got a thousand or so rounds out'a my LRP 6.5. Most were 140 or 130 grainers pushed by 41.6 gr of h4350. Far as I recollect I have no bolt head cratering at all. I will however look it over tonight. I had all sorts of other issue, but not that!

Please let me know. I have a working "theory" as to what may have caused it in such a short time period and I don't think it is a Savage issue.

I color my primers with green sharpie to more easily ID my brass at matches. My "theory" has something to do with the sharpie ink boiling off and getting super heated when the pressure wave hits the the bolt face. Exactly like when you have water/steam dance across a really hot skillet in micro spheres. I see just a touch of primer flow around the firing pin strike so I feel the temeratures and pressures are well within range to do this to the ink if the brass is flowing. Trying to compress a superheated gas (in this case the ink) can lead to some funky phenomena. High temperature and pressure material science isn't my area of expertise, but I recall enough from college to think I'm NOT going to color my primers after I install the new PT&G bolt face. :p
 
Please let me know. I have a working "theory" as to what may have caused it in such a short time period and I don't think it is a Savage issue.

I color my primers with green sharpie to more easily ID my brass at matches. My "theory" has something to do with the sharpie ink boiling off and getting super heated when the pressure wave hits the the bolt face. Exactly like when you have water/steam dance across a really hot skillet in micro spheres. I see just a touch of primer flow around the firing pin strike so I feel the temeratures and pressures are well within range to do this to the ink if the brass is flowing. Trying to compress a superheated gas (in this case the ink) can lead to some funky phenomena. High temperature and pressure material science isn't my area of expertise, but I recall enough from college to think I'm NOT going to color my primers after I install the new PT&G bolt face. :p

NOTE: MY LRP IS A 6.5 CREEDMOOR

Interesting. I have absolutely no primer flattening. My spent primers (cci200) are rounded the same as new ones with my preferred loads. Now my 243 on the other hand is a cci200 flattening machine!! Keep me posted as to your findings about the bolt head cratering.