After searching for real reviews on this rifle (not SHOT show range day impressions from dirt blasting or plinking steel) and finding nothing, I finally gave in and just ordered one. I wasn't impressed with the rifle and I'm not impressed with the customer service from Savage so far. I wanted one because I really like the small frame, +2 gas system, compatibility with large frame DPMS spec barrels & bolts, and the 18" handguard with Arca rail. For a $2k rifle marketed as a competition ready precision rifle it fell far short. The best 10 round groups I could squeeze out of it was 2"+. I fired hundreds of rounds, tried several factory and handloads of match quality and tried multiple optics. I have owned many 308 ARs since the mid to late 90s and built a few that were all more accurate, and most were much more accurate. This was easily the least accurate and probably the least reliable. The bore was pretty rough which I suspect was the cause of the many malfunctions. The handguard was also not aligned with the barrel. I thought this may have been the cause of the inaccuracy so I shimmed one side with a piece of paper to get the gas block centered in the handguard, but accuracy was still poor. I really loved the design of this rifle, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. I sent the rifle back to Savage over a month ago and I have yet to get a phone call or email, much less a rifle back.
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Savage MSR-10 Precision
- Thread starter MTWelder
- Start date
Sorry to hear of your negative experience. I've got the Hunter version in 6.5. I haven't shot it yet, still putting together the right gear first. I'll be watching this thread.
I just received my precision in 308. It will not cycle or lock the bolt back with 168 grn fed gm, magtech sniper 168 nor MEN 150 grn. I have adjusted the gas block from all the way in to all the way out in small increments without success. It is accurate (sub moa), but doesn't really matter if it doesn't work. Will be going back.
I've had the 308 Hunter for a little over a week now, one range trip with about 40 rounds through it. On the factory setting it cycled Saltech 150 grain M80ish surplus fine, but a little gassy. I turned the gas all the way off then went one click up until bolt lock on empty mag. I ended up at 15 clicks from closed. I then screwed on my TBAC Ultra 7 and it needed to be at 10 clicks to lock bolt back on empty mag. Shot a couple 5 round groups that had flyers making them about 2" with a 1-6 Burris RT6. Acceptable for the ammo. Going to try handloads or FGMM to see what it's capable of once I get a few more rounds through it. So far I like the gun. It's relatively light, well balanced and I like the way the gas system adjusts. It's replacing a K&M M17s that I had trouble getting to run suppressed.
Sorry to hear about your experience with the MSR, but mine has been exactly the opposite, My 6.5 has shot and run flawlessly from the getgo. Zero feeding problems, shoots into 1/2MOA all day with the right load, and the reciprocating mass impulse is by far the smoothest I've ever seen on an AR10 sized rifle.
Every shop produces duds, and Savage is no different. But they produce a lot more units than most as well. It sounds like they are trying to get your issue sorted, hopefully your experience will soon line up with most of the other MSR shooters.
Every shop produces duds, and Savage is no different. But they produce a lot more units than most as well. It sounds like they are trying to get your issue sorted, hopefully your experience will soon line up with most of the other MSR shooters.
Nice thing is I bought it from Bud's and they sent me a prepaid label to send it back Savage. I would have rather returned it to them for an exchange, but I understand that is not feasible. I am sure it will return 100% from Savage, just unfortunate I have to deal with this.
Interested to see how this turns out..looking into buying the msr10 hunter model to carry in the field and I’m hoping savage will take care of any warranty concerns
After 5 weeks, I got the rifle back from Savage. They polished the chamber. They also test fired it and claimed that it shot .7" which meets their standard. I don't know if maybe polishing the chamber could have maybe helped the accuracy by making it cycle more consistently? I have doubts. I suspect either they got lucky with their 5 shot group, or they are FOS.
As a side note- I once had a 308 AR suddenly go from shooting 1/2" groups to shooting 2-3" groups. After trying everything I could think of to get it to shoot, I sent it back to the manufacturer and they shimmed the barrel into the upper and sent it back with a test target with a 1/4" group. I took it out and shot the same 2-3" groups with it. I was ready to part it out and start over when a buddy suggested we swap BCGs and try it. I wouldn't have believed it, but the next group I fired was a nice round 1/2" group! The problem had been the bolt, carrier, or the interaction between them, but there was no way that 1/4" group on that test target came from my upper unless they fired it at ten feet or used another bolt carrier group!
You can understand my scepticism with Savage's claimed group size. I'm highly doubtful that it went from consistently shooting 2-2.5" groups with everything I fed it, to shooting sub moa with only a chamber polish, but I'll report back after I get a chance to shoot it again
As a side note- I once had a 308 AR suddenly go from shooting 1/2" groups to shooting 2-3" groups. After trying everything I could think of to get it to shoot, I sent it back to the manufacturer and they shimmed the barrel into the upper and sent it back with a test target with a 1/4" group. I took it out and shot the same 2-3" groups with it. I was ready to part it out and start over when a buddy suggested we swap BCGs and try it. I wouldn't have believed it, but the next group I fired was a nice round 1/2" group! The problem had been the bolt, carrier, or the interaction between them, but there was no way that 1/4" group on that test target came from my upper unless they fired it at ten feet or used another bolt carrier group!
You can understand my scepticism with Savage's claimed group size. I'm highly doubtful that it went from consistently shooting 2-2.5" groups with everything I fed it, to shooting sub moa with only a chamber polish, but I'll report back after I get a chance to shoot it again
That seems odds but if it’s legit then that’s good that’s it’s all it needed. Waiting to sell a scope before I buy a hunter msr10 in 308
It's hard to believe they shot a 5 round group.
I have a MSR 10 LR that I sent back with a list of things that needed to be addressed.
One month almost to the day I got it back.
Their reply: Rifle shoots 1/2" 3 round group with FGMM 168's.
No other explanation to other concerns.
I took the rifle out and shot a 1/2" 5 round group with factory FGMM 168.
I think they replaced the gas block and handguard issue?
Also shot FGMM 175's but groups opened up.
I've done tons of testing with this rifle and only shoot 175-178 class bullets.
Pretty much avg. Just over 1moa.
Things I've done: changed the trigger to a Geissele SD-E.
Installed a JP SCS
Changed mussel brake
Cut out handguard around gas block.
The other problem SA did address was the RETAINING PIN for the firing pin.
These break!
SA would not send them to me without sending the rifle to them!
When I got it back they sent 2 extras back with it!
Wanted to install a JP HP bolt but it didn't work because the BCG is proprietary and the firing pin that comes with the bolt is too long ?!
The biggest issue I seem to have is inconsistent groups.
I really believe it's the barrel to receiver matting?
There is .006 slop and I can move the barrel (at the muzzle) about 1/8" in any direction!
I absolutely hate the way the barrel nut works!
I really think the threads on the outside of the nut and being recessed in the receiver does not allow the barrel to be locked down properly and makes it impossible to shim!
I really don't know for sure.
I have glued it together but haven't got to shoot it.
One other observation is, I shot it without a brake and it seemed to shoot as good if not better!
Thanks for sharing your observations. I'll be taking mine out again this week and hopefully have some FGMM to try. I haven't taken anything apart on mine and likley won't. Mine is the Hunter so my expectations aren't the same. It just needs to kill pigs so if it gets less than 1.5 MOA with whatever ammo I choose, I'll be happy. I do love the weight and balance of the rifle so far.
I'm hoping to have a day with half decent weather to shoot it in the next few days, but I am planning to locktite the barrel extension into the receiver at the very least. I may also try a JP enhanced bolt (not the hp). I may also make up a mandrel to true up the receiver.
Thank for the input on Savage. I just bought an MSR-10 long range as well and it had issues with the gas block adjuster hitting the hand guard and a severe mis-match where the hand guard mounts to the receiver. Think flush on one side and a .033" ledge on the other (been a machinist for 27 years so I can measure with the best of them 
) Called Savage and explained the issue and they offered a replacement hand guard no questions asked. Then I explained that it wouldn't come off by hand and I had a pre-paid shipping label in 5 minutes. Now lets see if they fix it!
) Called Savage and explained the issue and they offered a replacement hand guard no questions asked. Then I explained that it wouldn't come off by hand and I had a pre-paid shipping label in 5 minutes. Now lets see if they fix it!
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The only reason I bought the JP bolt was because of the size of the firing pin hole.
It didn't go to waste though. I put it in an Anderson AM 10 and allowed me to load a little bit hoter. That rifle is great after I did some upgrades to it.
It didn't go to waste though. I put it in an Anderson AM 10 and allowed me to load a little bit hoter. That rifle is great after I did some upgrades to it.
Ok, so I finally got out to get in some range time.
Heading on a Elk hunt in one week a needed to get some rifles sighted in.
Took 4 to decide what I will take on the hunt.
1. 6.5-284 : barrel just about shot out
but still #1 choice. Wt 11 pounds.
2. 260 rem: excellent shooter but Wt
is 14 pounds.
3. Straight 284 that wt. 6 pounds but not
set up to shoot a long ways out.
4. Not in the running but had to shoot
it : Savage MSR10 LR.
I've done some work to it but wasn't able to get the accuracy out of it.
Took two loads for it. 41.6 g 8208, 175g RDF. The other load was 42.6 g. 8208, 175g RDF.
These loads I have shot before and was giving them one more chance. LOL!
Well I think I cracked the code after a lot of work and fluststration. The last thing I done was glue the barrel to the action. That was a least 2 months ago and I've been to busy to shoot it.
To make this story shorter, things didn't seem to improve at first.
But tried a little something different.
I may be wrong but I griped the rifle just like I grip my 45 (VERY TIGHT)!
IT SHOT EXCELLENT! 4 shots just over .33" then I shot it out to 300 yds. Holding one mil high and I was very happy.
These images are confusing but first one was 100 y. I shot a lot of rounds with different rifles and this was the last spot on the series. The two that bracket the dot were the first two.
Then I held the rifle different than before and shot the 4 touching.
I also had a target in the next image at 300 y.
I was using it for two rifles.
Anyway the impacts for the .308 were great for me and this rifle.
Right now? NO MORE BAD MOUTHING SAVAGE?! Maybe it is the Indian and not the arrow?
Heading on a Elk hunt in one week a needed to get some rifles sighted in.
Took 4 to decide what I will take on the hunt.
1. 6.5-284 : barrel just about shot out
but still #1 choice. Wt 11 pounds.
2. 260 rem: excellent shooter but Wt
is 14 pounds.
3. Straight 284 that wt. 6 pounds but not
set up to shoot a long ways out.
4. Not in the running but had to shoot
it : Savage MSR10 LR.
I've done some work to it but wasn't able to get the accuracy out of it.
Took two loads for it. 41.6 g 8208, 175g RDF. The other load was 42.6 g. 8208, 175g RDF.
These loads I have shot before and was giving them one more chance. LOL!
Well I think I cracked the code after a lot of work and fluststration. The last thing I done was glue the barrel to the action. That was a least 2 months ago and I've been to busy to shoot it.
To make this story shorter, things didn't seem to improve at first.
But tried a little something different.
I may be wrong but I griped the rifle just like I grip my 45 (VERY TIGHT)!
IT SHOT EXCELLENT! 4 shots just over .33" then I shot it out to 300 yds. Holding one mil high and I was very happy.
These images are confusing but first one was 100 y. I shot a lot of rounds with different rifles and this was the last spot on the series. The two that bracket the dot were the first two.
Then I held the rifle different than before and shot the 4 touching.
I also had a target in the next image at 300 y.
I was using it for two rifles.
Anyway the impacts for the .308 were great for me and this rifle.
Right now? NO MORE BAD MOUTHING SAVAGE?! Maybe it is the Indian and not the arrow?
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So I have a stupid question... I like the side charging handle but it looks like a PITA to remove. While I'm breaking in the barrel (or am I over thinking this?) I can I shoot it with it removed? It would make getting the BCG out so much quicker!
Yeah, you have to adjust your technique a bit with gas guns in general, most of them need a firmer grip and well loaded tripod legs.
Good news is - I have an MSR10LR in 6.5, and after seeing the results I got with mine, several of my shooting buddies have also bought them to shoot gas gun in PRS - 3 in 6mmCM and one old curmudgeon in .308. They all shoot, but what we've found, is that the barrels need about 100-150 rounds down the pipe, before they settle in and really start to shoot, with the 6mm's taking less. This makes perfect sense, when you consider Savage makes a lot of barrels. I don't think they spend a lot of time with a lap on them. But Savage poops out a zillion 1/2"-1" barrels every year, and most of them shoot excellent. A little rougher finished than a boutique barrel, but a LOT cheaper.
Also - for best accuracy, you need to keep your gas block pretty dialed in - change bullet weight, change gas block setting. When its set right, the recoil impulse is practically non-existent on the 6CM, and the 6.5CM loaded a bit hot, feels like a comped 5.56. Pussycats. After using it a bit, you can pretty much predict the clicks needed to switch bullets.
God I love the side charger. If you shoot prone, I wouldn't even consider shooting a gasgun without one.
All the models I've seen shot ended up in the 1/2"-3/4" range with appropriate loads.
I paid $1700 for mine. I stuck a Geiselle trigger in it, changed the grip, put a Viper PST Gen II on it, and my match scores are similar to those with my bolt guns, and a bit better in timed stages.
You'll either be entertained or annoyed by all the JP/Seekins/LMT/DD shooters struggling to explain why they spent thrice as much, for rifles that don't shoot an iota better, and in some cases shoot worse. You're also going to spend a lot of time talking to people interested in buying one.
The first production run of these rifles produced a few culls, as should be expected. But recent batches seem very consistent, based on my tiny and non-statistically valid sample set. If you're considering buying one, look for a serial number greater than 5000.
I'm seriously thinking about grabbing another LR in 6mmCM, and a Hunter in 6.5 (I've seen a surprising number shoot sub-moa groups) for use on pigs/mulies/pronghorn, etc. in a carry friendly format.
B
Good news is - I have an MSR10LR in 6.5, and after seeing the results I got with mine, several of my shooting buddies have also bought them to shoot gas gun in PRS - 3 in 6mmCM and one old curmudgeon in .308. They all shoot, but what we've found, is that the barrels need about 100-150 rounds down the pipe, before they settle in and really start to shoot, with the 6mm's taking less. This makes perfect sense, when you consider Savage makes a lot of barrels. I don't think they spend a lot of time with a lap on them. But Savage poops out a zillion 1/2"-1" barrels every year, and most of them shoot excellent. A little rougher finished than a boutique barrel, but a LOT cheaper.
Also - for best accuracy, you need to keep your gas block pretty dialed in - change bullet weight, change gas block setting. When its set right, the recoil impulse is practically non-existent on the 6CM, and the 6.5CM loaded a bit hot, feels like a comped 5.56. Pussycats. After using it a bit, you can pretty much predict the clicks needed to switch bullets.
God I love the side charger. If you shoot prone, I wouldn't even consider shooting a gasgun without one.
All the models I've seen shot ended up in the 1/2"-3/4" range with appropriate loads.
I paid $1700 for mine. I stuck a Geiselle trigger in it, changed the grip, put a Viper PST Gen II on it, and my match scores are similar to those with my bolt guns, and a bit better in timed stages.
You'll either be entertained or annoyed by all the JP/Seekins/LMT/DD shooters struggling to explain why they spent thrice as much, for rifles that don't shoot an iota better, and in some cases shoot worse. You're also going to spend a lot of time talking to people interested in buying one.
The first production run of these rifles produced a few culls, as should be expected. But recent batches seem very consistent, based on my tiny and non-statistically valid sample set. If you're considering buying one, look for a serial number greater than 5000.
I'm seriously thinking about grabbing another LR in 6mmCM, and a Hunter in 6.5 (I've seen a surprising number shoot sub-moa groups) for use on pigs/mulies/pronghorn, etc. in a carry friendly format.
B
Got my long range back from Savage today. I'm not 100% but I think they just gave me a new upper... It left without a muzzle brake and came back with one installed??? Considering the mismatch between the hand guard and the receiver I can't see how they couldn't but the service invoice is very vague and keeps mentioning bolt actions??? Weird but looking forward to shooting it this weekend!
Yeah I know we've all seen them but this one is mine!
Yeah I know we've all seen them but this one is mine!
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Got to go play at the range today and I am impressed with the Savage! Probably a fluke cause of the problem part aka the nut behind the trigger aka me! but I manged a 5-shot group at 200 yards that measure 1.150" edge to edge! Very pleased!!!
Had a good day at the range! Might be the lack of copper fouling but the Savage didn't particularly like the Federal Gold but it loves the Hornady 140gr ELD-M stuff!
The range. 50, 100, and 200 yards. $40.00/year? Hell yes!!!
And the best group of the day! .386 MOA (.808" center to center) at 200 yards.
Had a good day at the range! Might be the lack of copper fouling but the Savage didn't particularly like the Federal Gold but it loves the Hornady 140gr ELD-M stuff!
The range. 50, 100, and 200 yards. $40.00/year? Hell yes!!!
And the best group of the day! .386 MOA (.808" center to center) at 200 yards.
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Yep, mine loves the ELDM 140's as well. I'm using 41.7g of h3850 to drive them, and getting groups around a half inch at 100.
As you get a feel for the rifle, your shooting is going to improve as well. Best tip I've gotten, was to remove your thumb from behind the pistol grip, and lay it down the grip pointing at the target, with only the tip of your finger touching the trigger, and no pressure on the grip at all. When you fire, focus on follow through, keep you finger fully depressed throughout the recoil stroke, then once gun settles, release trigger reset and verify the audible snap.
That pistol grip hanging down, is way too easy to use as a lever for aiming and manhandling the gun, the idea is to force yourself not to do that. Any stray force applied to the gun, with its long AR lock time, and recip mass, is going to open your groups.
My rear hand is holding the rear bag, and I do this at the butt hook on the stock, using my left to draw the rifle snug to my shoulder.
A good compensator matters. The stock comp is actually pretty decent, but I switched mine for an APA Little Bastard Gen 3, to have more control over the muzzle rise and recoil. I'll be testing and adjusting that at my next range trip (cold as hell today in Texas).
As you get a feel for the rifle, your shooting is going to improve as well. Best tip I've gotten, was to remove your thumb from behind the pistol grip, and lay it down the grip pointing at the target, with only the tip of your finger touching the trigger, and no pressure on the grip at all. When you fire, focus on follow through, keep you finger fully depressed throughout the recoil stroke, then once gun settles, release trigger reset and verify the audible snap.
That pistol grip hanging down, is way too easy to use as a lever for aiming and manhandling the gun, the idea is to force yourself not to do that. Any stray force applied to the gun, with its long AR lock time, and recip mass, is going to open your groups.
My rear hand is holding the rear bag, and I do this at the butt hook on the stock, using my left to draw the rifle snug to my shoulder.
A good compensator matters. The stock comp is actually pretty decent, but I switched mine for an APA Little Bastard Gen 3, to have more control over the muzzle rise and recoil. I'll be testing and adjusting that at my next range trip (cold as hell today in Texas).
Great information! Thank you! I forgot my bag the other day (Caldweld bunny ear style) and had to use a rolled beach towel instead. That forced me to control the stock instead of playing fast and loose with the bag and my groups improved a great deal. I immediately ordered a Precision Underground rear bag and look forward to trying the whole set-up out this weekend when it's in the 50's. Not exactly balmy here in Aranasas either
. Oh and I added a TriggerTech Diamond unit to my rifle and I like it VERY much!Texas you say? Have you ever shot at Fossil Point? Thinking about a shooting vacation focused on that area next March or April.
P.S. Any tricks for getting the muzzle brake off? The first one was literally finger tight but Savage replaced my entire upper and this one it tight!!!
Yeah, use a blowtorch to heat the joint a bit and loosen the threadlocker on it. It will come off, but takes a little muscle. The heat made mine easy.
I went with a Geiselle SSA-E, and am extremely happy with the crisp letoff of it.
I gather that bag collecting is an important part of PRS shooting. I have a game changer and pump pillow now, and use a no-name rear bag, or the game changer.
I sure have. It has an 800 yard range, is pretty nice, not many PRS props to use in practice, but during the week, you have a good chance of being the only one there. Weekends get really busy. The wind there can be a real pain, since the prevailing wind direction comes from about 11:00 and below you as you look downrange. Result - bullet actually gets enough lift to need 2-4 clicks down below a hundred yard zero out to about 600 yards. Argh.
I can also recommend the Three C range at Cresson, TX (a little south of Ft. Worth) at Three C Range.
They have up to 2000 yards, and host a lot of large PRS matches. I plan to compete there in the spring this year with the MSR, among other places.
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I started a new job a little over a month ago and I've been working a pile of overtime, mostly at odd hours, so I haven't had a lot of spare time. I did finally get a chance to make a quick trip to the range a few days ago to try the rifle. I brought along a box of Federal 168 match and it did put ten rounds into right at 1" at 100 yards. I'll have to get back to the range again to try other ammo to determine if it will shoot anything else any better than it did before.
sent mine back about two months ago. I had received a call a month back where I was informed the rifle was gtg and was about to be shipped to me. I asked what they did to remedy the malady and they said there was nothing wrong detected upon their testing. When I asked what will then make it work when it comes back to me they hesitated and said they will have the "master" gunsmith will do a once over on it. Called back a few weeks later and was informed the master gunsmith did not like the way the rifle cycled (it didn't) and was going to look at it. A few weeks later I called to check the status and am now being told it is their busy season and not to expect it back anytime soon.
Jeff Wenner
Jeff Wenner
Wow... That's not special. So when you say the way it cycled are you having my luck with the bolt completely running over rounds with out picking them up -or- picking up a round and then trying to load WHILE the spent case is trying to eject AND another live round has popped up and created a ammunition thruple aka a hell of a mess? Add to this that no amount of fiddling with the gas system will help... Am I close? If so I might have found an issue. The buffer Savage chose to put in the MSR-10 LR weighs 3.0 ounces and promptly paired it with a spring that is stiffer than the ones my car's suspension uses! I have upgraded this combination to an H3 buffer and a Tubbs AR-10 flatwire buffer spring. The only other thing I will be messing with will be adding shims behind the spring to get the clearance from the bolt catch to full over travel in the sweet spot at .125"-ish. I will post back with results and I hope Savage gets your rifle lined out in short order!
I'll be interested in your results. I've had no issues with my buffer (stock) setup, and so far, nearly all feeding issues I've experienced have been from under-gassing after changing bullet weights. I've been tinkering with my recoil impulse trying to reduce muzzle hop, mainly by changing compensators (APA G3 Little Bastard) which has me really close to the follow through I want, but I'm curious what effects you note from switching springs and buffers.
I also have a +5000 serial number.
I'm a sub 3000 S/N. I will say there is so much pressure on the bolt in the locked back position that I really thought i would bend the bolt release... I'll mess with it this weekend and post back!
Well I got everything dialed in this weekend. Shooting Hornady 140gr Eld-M required 12 clicks open to lock the bolt back on the bag and 13 to cycle and lock back after 3 rounds from an unsupported off hand position. Added one click for good measure and haven't looked back. 45 rounds with no issues and even manged a .454 MOA group. The Savage does like being held tight! Oh, and I did add .170" worth of shims under the buffer spring to get .105" of clearance between the bolt lugs and the bolt catch. Glad to have this bugger dialed in and confident it will do anything I ask of it assuming I do my job!
P.S. With the new bits the MSR10 recoils about as hard as my Springer Saint!
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I am going off information provided by @Lawless in a thread on setting the gas on an AR-10 so maybe he can give a more eloquent answer but from what I gathered If the distance between the BCG (all the way back) and the bolt release is too great it will alliw the BCG to gain enough momentum to slam into the bolt catch with enough force (When the magazine is empty) to shear the bolt catch off at some point in time. Also, and again this is my take, but by shortening the distance between the bolt face and the case rim (when the magazine has rounds in it) the buffer spring doesn’t have time to accelerate the BCG to a velocity where the BCG has already passed the location of the case rim before the magazine spring can lift the next round Into position resulting in a failure to feed. It’s a timed dance of all the parts Is what I am assuming based on the physics involved. Dose that make sense? Did I butcher the mechanics involved @Lawless?
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The bolt head should have between 1/10“ to a max of 1/8“ clearance to the bolt catch with the charge handle pulled all the way to the rear.
More than this will break the bolt catch eventually due to the bolt having enough momentum to batter it.
Dropping 9mm AR buffer shims, correct diameter washers or even quarters (with holes drilled for venting) in the bottom of the receiver extension will take this clearance up.
If you have a 3.25” buffer, put in any H3 you can find on sale (Primary arms has one on sale for $20 right now) and a Tubbs AR10 spring. These combined will slow the cycling but enhance reliability. The Tubbs spring has more pressure in battery (delays unlock) but less as the BCG moves rearward (enhances reliability).
In other words it changes pressure less over its compression length.
Then tune the gas to allow for lock back on an empty every time plus a little more for dirty guns and cold weather.
Only other thing is the malfunction described above where the empty does not make it out and a new round comes up under it (2 hotdogs in one bun) is likely due to extractor spring tension.
Using 2 o-rings under it or a Sprinco dual AR10 extractor spring will fix it.
More than this will break the bolt catch eventually due to the bolt having enough momentum to batter it.
Dropping 9mm AR buffer shims, correct diameter washers or even quarters (with holes drilled for venting) in the bottom of the receiver extension will take this clearance up.
If you have a 3.25” buffer, put in any H3 you can find on sale (Primary arms has one on sale for $20 right now) and a Tubbs AR10 spring. These combined will slow the cycling but enhance reliability. The Tubbs spring has more pressure in battery (delays unlock) but less as the BCG moves rearward (enhances reliability).
In other words it changes pressure less over its compression length.
Then tune the gas to allow for lock back on an empty every time plus a little more for dirty guns and cold weather.
Only other thing is the malfunction described above where the empty does not make it out and a new round comes up under it (2 hotdogs in one bun) is likely due to extractor spring tension.
Using 2 o-rings under it or a Sprinco dual AR10 extractor spring will fix it.
All of these posts about MSR 10's going back, spending weeks/months at Savage's facility. Shims being thrown everywhere like a goddamned confetti party and you make a statement like that? LOL!!!
I don't think you read the entire thread.
Anyhow, I'll just go be sad in the corner with my LRP-07 that has never been back to JP, once, and doesn't have any shims around the barrel nut, gas block or receivers.
You make a valid point but when I spec out a JP like my Savage I'm at about $6000.00. Subtract the scope, mount, extra mags, and parts, and and I have a .4 MOA rifle and $2200.00 left. I enjoyed the challenge and 30 days to replace a bum upper ain't nothing compared to the wait on a suppressor. I'll go be poor in the other corner and save up for my Accuracy International AX. Different strokes for different folks
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How did you spend $6k on a JP? 2 full uppers?!You make a valid point but when I spec out a JP like my Savage I'm at about $6000.00. Subtract the scope, mount, extra mags, and parts, and and I have a .4 MOA rifle and $2200.00 left. I enjoyed the challenge and 30 days to replace a bum upper ain't nothing compared to the wait on a suppressor. I'll go be poor in the other corner and save up for my Accuracy International AX. Different strokes for different folks
Just playing with the rifle builder on their website... Mind you I added all the bits I bought for (or came with) my rifle as well. Scope, Altlas bi-pod, mags, Magpul PRS Gen3, picatinny adapter, etc.
"Total price of your build: $6462.84 " Subtract the Razor HD ($1999.00) and add a Viper ($999) and you have $5463.83. Fine I saved $1861.00
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Received a call from Savage today (finally). Turns out that the rifle I bought new and that passed QC before shipping cannot be repaired to work. It literally did not work ever, the bolt never properly cycled once. As such they are sending me an entirely new rifle and they stated they will be destroying mine. I will be selling it as soon as it arrives at my dealer.
