Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Then buy a house with a longer basement. It’s the only alternative.Sure, but I like to be setup before I get to the range.
My issue with this method is scopes with minimum parallax at ~50y, I’m unable to get the string in focus when performing leveling operations in the basement.
Yeah forgot to mention I do this at about 50 yds, not within the confines of a basement. Normally looking out the back door of my shop. Also gotta have a pretty windless day unless you hang a 10 lb weight or so.My issue with this method is scopes with minimum parallax at ~50y, I’m unable to get the string in focus when performing leveling operations in the basement.
What brand of scope base do you have mounted? All scope bases are not created equal. I’ve run into this before, in fact on the same rifle action. The first base I put on was not level. It was level at the rear but off at the front. I removed and retorqued, no difference. Took it off put a different brand on and it was level everywhere. So it’s worth trying.I did a search and didn’t really find an answer. I’m putting together a .22 for MARS this year, it’s a B14r barreled action in a MDT chassis with a EGW 20 MOA base and vortex rings. It’s going to be fitted with a Vortex AMG. The problem I’m having is trying to level the rifle, I put the level on the base and it shows dead on, then I put the level on the rings and there off. Both of the rings and the base all show different readings. I’m assuming I should go with the base level, is this correct?
Wrong.Really I just want to address the scope Canted stuff. A canted scope, assuming you always cant it the same, at 100 yards 300 yards 600 yards etc. won’t make a difference. I look at it this way and I think it’s pretty simple and correct. Take a shot at 100 yards put the crosshairs over where the bullet was. Sure do a group. Then do a tall test target. A canted scope assuming you always cant it the same way won’t make a difference
Because he has Vortex rings. Not a Spuhr mount.I see that Spuhr has a little triangle thing to level a scope. I'm assuming that works out very well.
Why not just go with a method like that?
String with a couple washers. Hang against a white wall. Level rifle on a table next to the wall pointing away from wall. Mount scope loosely in rings . Point flashlight into OBJECTIVE. Adjust magnification ring and Ocular focus to project onto wall. Align vertical cross hair with string. Methodically tighten rings to scope.My issue with this method is scopes with minimum parallax at ~50y, I’m unable to get the string in focus when performing leveling operations in the basement.
Really I just want to address the scope Canted stuff. A canted scope, assuming you always cant it the same, at 100 yards 300 yards 600 yards etc. won’t make a difference. I look at it this way and I think it’s pretty simple and correct. Take a shot at 100 yards put the crosshairs over where the bullet was. Sure do a group. Then do a tall test target. A canted scope assuming you always cant it the same way won’t make a difference
Wrong.
What matters is that the reticle is level to the earth when you fire the rifle. If the reticle is level your POA will go straight up as you dial. If the reticle is canted in relation to the earth your POA will go left or right some amount when you dial up. This is what matters. The relationship between the rifle and the scope is much less important and makes little difference on the target.I'll let you all decide for yourself if it matters, but according to David Tubb & Brian Litz, there is 5" of lateral POI shift for every 1 degree of cant.
https://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/canting-effect-on-point-of-impact/
A canted reticle will fail a tall target test no matter how consistently you hold it.Really I just want to address the scope Canted stuff. A canted scope, assuming you always cant it the same, at 100 yards 300 yards 600 yards etc. won’t make a difference. I look at it this way and I think it’s pretty simple and correct. Take a shot at 100 yards put the crosshairs over where the bullet was. Sure do a group. Then do a tall test target. A canted scope assuming you always cant it the same way won’t make a difference
My issue with this method is scopes with minimum parallax at ~50y, I’m unable to get the string in focus when performing leveling operations in the basement.
View attachment 7765618
which one do you trust….
I use the clamp on style for my ftr and f open rifles. They work great for that application. (at least for me) agree as to the no difference, that was my point, I do think it’s important and nice to have a plumb level reticle but to what degree…(cant) matters to a certain point but repeatability is kingThey are all close enough no shooter will notice a difference but I would never use a clamp on to rail level for mounting or after for range use.
Which is the best to mount? LED of LEP flashlight?oint flashlight into OBJECTIVE.
Try to get a light with an adjustable beam . Like the one I linked. It allows you to get the best image of the reticle by tweaking the light and ocular adjustments. Just a little trial and error will produce the cleanest projection. Good luck.Which is the best to mount? LED of LEP flashlight?