Is there an easy way to level a scopes reticle? I tried using feeler gauges, I think my mount may not be level after seeing my results. Anyone use the wheeler scope level kit?
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
Rifle Scopes Scope leveling?...
- Thread starter sch2046
- Start date
I used the wheeler and have always gotten great results, just make sure the place your resting the rifle on is level.
With the rifle leveled using a spirit level attached to the scope base; align the vertical cross hair with a plumb line in the distance.
Confirm that the vertical travel of the scope’s erector tube coincides with the vertical cross hair by shooting a tall target test. Adjust as necessary to ensure that the direction of adjustment is plumb when the rifle is held level.
The external envelope of the scope is functionally irrelevant and is only coincidentally aligned with the internals.
The objective of the exercise is to ensure that the axis of the bore lies on the plane described by the vertical adjustment of the cross hairs.
Confirm that the vertical travel of the scope’s erector tube coincides with the vertical cross hair by shooting a tall target test. Adjust as necessary to ensure that the direction of adjustment is plumb when the rifle is held level.
The external envelope of the scope is functionally irrelevant and is only coincidentally aligned with the internals.
The objective of the exercise is to ensure that the axis of the bore lies on the plane described by the vertical adjustment of the cross hairs.
Really, all that matters is how it shoots....
See here..... http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-straight-up-test-testing-scope-cant-pic.html
See here..... http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-straight-up-test-testing-scope-cant-pic.html
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Like this, I put a level under the bipod legs, level it all up, drop a line from a deck rafter and align alway. Assumes the bipod is level and square.
I just use a micrometer and measure both sides from the scope base to the actual base of the scope. get it level to within .001"
I am not sure, it is a manners with a mini chassis, custom rifle. I had the feeler gauge and when I tightened it up and it just didn't look right.
As backwards as that sounds it actually correct. No cut on you Pinecone
That said, you need a bubble level that is in alignment with your reticle, this becomes more important at longer distances.
It never looks "right" to me when mine is actually level. Lazy21 and his buddies all had a good laugh at my experience one day at ASC when looking through scopes I had mounted using the plumb line method. Apparently they were all canted, despite the fact that I had hung a plumb line from the kid's swing set and lined up the vertical axis with it before torquing down. One of the guys was nice enough to remount one of them for me on the spot. He used an atlas bipod, got the rifle level by putting a level on the scope rail, locking up the bipod, then mounted the scope and put a level on the flat top of the elevation turret, got the two levels exactly aligned, then slowly and METHODICALLY torqued the rings down, zig-zagging back and forth from screw to screw while keeping the level on the turret to make sure it didn't become unlevel during the tightening process, which is extremely important. They all agreed it was now truly level, and when I got behind the rifle and looked through the scope the reticle seemed canted as it could be! They told me it was because i was so used to doing it wrong. I now use this method while using the two levels from the wheeler kit. They all still look canted to me. I also mount an external level now.
This will be an ongoing battle, and I'm not sure I'm even winning it now.
There seem to be so many thoughts on leveling the reticle to the bore. I was told by the guy that built my rifle, well known here, that even though the barrel is round, often the bored hole may not be truely straight and he times the barrel to 12 O'clock. Which would throw off the "the barrel is round" theory. Now I dont know sh&t from shinola, which is why I am asking. I do greatly appreciate the advice and I will try a few of the suggestions here.
Thanks very much, I always pick up great info here.
Sean
Thanks very much, I always pick up great info here.
Sean
This seems to be my battle as well. Some battles are just never won..........I am going to get the wheeler kit today and use the ideas on the thread. I just hope my eyes believe what the level is telling me.......
Just read through part of this. Looks like there are much better methods than the one I'm using. I'll be looking into the boresighting method in more detail.
The best way i have found is to put a small bubble level on my scope rail and use a leupold boresighter with a small level on top of it and level my cross hair to the leupold boresighter,they mount up level every time.
Doing some research on the Leupold Boresighter now. Interesting looking device. I've never heard of it before. Seems to have mixed reviews with the bottom line being if you can figure out how to use it and understand what makes it work, then it's pretty handy. Could end up being one of the easiest ways to level the scope from what I can tell.
In fact some people (pros) cant the rifle little so if fits into their shoulder pocket a little better. But make sure of course that that vertical part of the reticle is aligned with gravity.
put a level(external) on you rifle then put your the rifle in you natural position without looking @ the level. Once you have your rifled shouldered, look at your level and you'll see how far you're off
In my opinion, levels are subjective.
The fastest and most reliable way I have found to mount a scope is to use a standard set of allen wrenches and find the one which fits in a picitanny rail slot and just under the flat base of the scope. As you turn the allen wrench on its edge, it will contact the bottom of the flat housing of the scope.
You move the scope back and forth until you have full contact and tighten the scope rings down.
You are now level with the scope base which should be as close to perfect as I feel is possible.
The fastest and most reliable way I have found to mount a scope is to use a standard set of allen wrenches and find the one which fits in a picitanny rail slot and just under the flat base of the scope. As you turn the allen wrench on its edge, it will contact the bottom of the flat housing of the scope.
You move the scope back and forth until you have full contact and tighten the scope rings down.
You are now level with the scope base which should be as close to perfect as I feel is possible.
Let's see. If I cant the rifle enough to put the reticle center 1 inch left of the bore, which is a lot of cant. If you sight in the rifle to hit at POA at 100 yards, yes, at 200 yards, the POI will be 1 inch left of POA, and 2 inches at 300.
OR
You could just sight in your rifle such that the POI is 1 inch right of POA at 100 yards. And it will remain 1 inch off as far as you want to shoot.
And realistically, you are not going to cant the rifle that much. 1 inch with a 2 inch height above bore is a 28 degree cant. That is almost 1/3 from vertical to horizontal.
A 10 degree cant, which is still a lot, gives a .34" offset. Or at 1100 yards, with a POA=POI at 100, Puts the POI at 3.4 inches to the left of POA. Maybe your wind calls accurate enough at 1100 yards that 3.4" makes a huge difference, but for most people, it is not a huge deal.
Unfortunately, errors are cumulative. They don't isolate themselves out so that you can pin them down. If you shoot with your scope off-center, good for you bud.
Carry on.
Carry on.
So I guess Tubbs doesn't know what he is doing when he fires with a canted rifle with a scope aligned properly?
The some "errors" CAN be isolated.
And yes, if you zero for windage at 100, the windage offest will creep up with distance. But if you zero with the offset present, there will be no change with distance. Simple geometry.
The some "errors" CAN be isolated.
And yes, if you zero for windage at 100, the windage offest will creep up with distance. But if you zero with the offset present, there will be no change with distance. Simple geometry.
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