I am mounting a Leupold scope onto my Remington 700, using the Leupold Mark 4 tactical mount (the mount they advise for use when mounting a Mark 4 onto a Remington 700). I have heard it is a good idea to use Locktight on the screws, to make sure they stay in place do not work their way out while firing. Does anyone else have suggestions for a stable scope platform?
Rifle Scopes scope mounting
- Thread starter jsmythe
- Start date
Re: scope mounting
I use 2o moa rails on all of my rifles, I use the blue locktight so if I do need to remove it I can heat it up and remove it.
Note: Before using locktight I never had a mount go loose, but after building my 338 Edge I figured why not use it to make sure...
I use 2o moa rails on all of my rifles, I use the blue locktight so if I do need to remove it I can heat it up and remove it.
Note: Before using locktight I never had a mount go loose, but after building my 338 Edge I figured why not use it to make sure...
Re: scope mounting
Jsmythe: I would use the blue loctite on the bases for sure. I carry a couple of tiny 'blister capsules' of Blue loctite in my field toolkit, in fact.
But for the rings bolts and the ring cap screws s I would not use Loctite. Instead, buy and use an inch-ounces torque driver.
Check your torques regularly.
Loctite will prevent screws from turning out of their holes, but that's not the only factor in keeping your setup in alignment and tight. Over time, screws will stretch under recoil and constant load. If you Loctite the cap and ring screws, you will never be able to check/set torques as the Loctite will bind them.
When you do check the torques (For LE in particular) make a note in your databook! Note any screws that seem to be loose and investigate or replace. Overtightening a screw even once can stretch it beyond its elastic limit, making it worthless.
And don't make the mistake of getting a foot pounds torque wrench! You want one that measures in inch pounds or inch ounces. IMHO, inch ounces is better as it offers much more flexibility. Mine goes from, I think, 10 inch ounces to 60 inch ounces. I use a little red paint to mark the torques on the rings and also put index marks on the screws. If interested, I'll post pix of mounts and torque driver later when I am near a camera.
Even w.out Loctite, the odds of things getting loose (with proper installation) is still very small under any normal use. But belt and suspenders approach never hurts where precision shooting is involved.
Cheers,
Sirhr
Jsmythe: I would use the blue loctite on the bases for sure. I carry a couple of tiny 'blister capsules' of Blue loctite in my field toolkit, in fact.
But for the rings bolts and the ring cap screws s I would not use Loctite. Instead, buy and use an inch-ounces torque driver.
Check your torques regularly.
Loctite will prevent screws from turning out of their holes, but that's not the only factor in keeping your setup in alignment and tight. Over time, screws will stretch under recoil and constant load. If you Loctite the cap and ring screws, you will never be able to check/set torques as the Loctite will bind them.
When you do check the torques (For LE in particular) make a note in your databook! Note any screws that seem to be loose and investigate or replace. Overtightening a screw even once can stretch it beyond its elastic limit, making it worthless.
And don't make the mistake of getting a foot pounds torque wrench! You want one that measures in inch pounds or inch ounces. IMHO, inch ounces is better as it offers much more flexibility. Mine goes from, I think, 10 inch ounces to 60 inch ounces. I use a little red paint to mark the torques on the rings and also put index marks on the screws. If interested, I'll post pix of mounts and torque driver later when I am near a camera.
Even w.out Loctite, the odds of things getting loose (with proper installation) is still very small under any normal use. But belt and suspenders approach never hurts where precision shooting is involved.
Cheers,
Sirhr
Re: scope mounting
My method is as follows -
1. Install Base, blue loctite on screws, and torque to proper specs.
2. Mount bottom half of rings in proper locations, and torque to proper specs.
3. Place scope in desired position, level, install top half of rings, and torque to proper specs.
4. Now I take the gun out to the range, zero, check for repeatability, and verify I'm happy with the scopes position.
5. Individually remove screws from the rings, apply blue loctite, and torque to proper specs again.
I don't know if this is the 'right' way to do it, but it works for me. YMMV
My method is as follows -
1. Install Base, blue loctite on screws, and torque to proper specs.
2. Mount bottom half of rings in proper locations, and torque to proper specs.
3. Place scope in desired position, level, install top half of rings, and torque to proper specs.
4. Now I take the gun out to the range, zero, check for repeatability, and verify I'm happy with the scopes position.
5. Individually remove screws from the rings, apply blue loctite, and torque to proper specs again.
I don't know if this is the 'right' way to do it, but it works for me. YMMV
Re: scope mounting
Since it started raining and curtailed my outside projects... photos:
This toolkit travels in my drag bag (trunk bag really). Torque driver, bits, Allen keys for various mounts, red paint and small brush, single cut flat file, punch, Larue tool, a couple of taps and tap handle. Whole thing weights less than a pound and covers all manner of range emergency.
This is not a great picture, because it shows 'old' index marks on the mounts that I should have removed. And the current ones aren't that visible. But you get the idea.
Markings for the main screws
This shows an index mark well. If that moves... I see it instantly.
Cheers,
Sirhr
Since it started raining and curtailed my outside projects... photos:
This toolkit travels in my drag bag (trunk bag really). Torque driver, bits, Allen keys for various mounts, red paint and small brush, single cut flat file, punch, Larue tool, a couple of taps and tap handle. Whole thing weights less than a pound and covers all manner of range emergency.
This is not a great picture, because it shows 'old' index marks on the mounts that I should have removed. And the current ones aren't that visible. But you get the idea.
Markings for the main screws
This shows an index mark well. If that moves... I see it instantly.
Cheers,
Sirhr
