Hey, I was just looking to see what scope mounts other people are using for a Tangent Theta 315M and any other opinions/options for a good scope mount. It will be going on an AR-10 type rifle. Qd mount is preferred, but not absolutely necessary. Thanks
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Rifle Scopes Scope mounts for Tangent Theta 315M
- Thread starter Josh0419
- Start date
Personally, I am getting a Geissele, which isn't QD but has 2 nuts. After reading a bunch over the last couple years, I have kind of lost my faith in most QD systems for precision scopes. However, if I do like ADM's system and the GDI system, but it is prohibitively expensive for the scope mount.
ARC makes great rings and mount, but on an AR, you will usually have to bridge the receiver and the handguard. Sometimes you can get away with not bridging on an AR10 or if you have a very short length of pull. Personally, I need a cantilever
It's the older sister to the Tangent Theta but basically the same in size. Here it is with ARC M10 rings on a Badger 22 MOA riser, but I've also used the ARC M10 QD-L which I like very much.
I’m done with them. I don’t like how they chew up the rails. They hold zero very well according to Mark larue.
Lol, I hear you. I was looking for qd and heard good things about them. What other qd options do you recommend.
Plenty of posts already on the verticals ring issues people have had. The pressure from the sides has a bad affect on the internals.
As far as I know this phenomenon does not apply to the ARC M10 rings or QD-L mounts as their design is different even though some might consider it to be vertical. Just wanted to make that clarification as not all ring designs are equal.
OP, the TT315M does not have much internal travel (only 18 mil / 60 MOA), so I'd recommend getting a 20MOA mount to get as much out of the travel as possible.
Edited to correct misinformation: With most scopes, if you go with zero MOA mount (and assuming you have a zero MOA rail) and the scope stays perfectly centered (a rare occurrence) that means you'll only have half the mil/moa value of the total travel of the scope; however, with Tangent Theta you have 18 mil of total travel and 12 mil of travel once zeroed. Some scopes do not do well if you bottom out the elevation using a large moa cant with your mount(s); however, as ILya has pointed out, the TT is designed for this and still maintains excellent optical clarity even using the extreme range of the elevation travel. Since you will never get more than 12 mil of elevation with the TT you should be fine with a 20 moa mount in order to get that full 12 mils of rotation.
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TT315M has 18mrad of internal travel. 12 mrad is two turns of the turret after setting the zerostop. If you are perfectly centered, you get 9 mrad (one and a half turns). With a 20MOA base, I get two full turns, i.e. 12 mrad available to me with the turret.
As far as how far 6 mrad takes you on an AR-10, I am not aware of any conventional load that would not take me past 500 yards with 308Win. Even with a 16" barrel and 100 yard zero, if I remember correctly, 6 mrad got me out to somewhere between 600 and 750 yards depending on the bullet. I do not think I tried anything very light or very heavy though. All my experimentation was with bullets in the 155 to 178 grain range.
ILya
Thank you ILya, why does TT still list the adjustment range of the TT315M at 12 mrad? I was going off what they advertise on their website, they should clarify that it is 12 mrad after zero stop, that is a bit confusing. I hate to be a purveyor of misinformation so appreciate the correction. With that being the case, a 20MOA mount may not be necessary as you mention.
They list it correctly. This is from their website:
Total Adjustment
RangeElevation 18 mrad (60 MoA)
Windage +/- 12 mrad (+/-40 MoA)
Working Adjustment
RangeElevation12 mrad (40 MoA)
Windage+/- 6 mrad (+/- 20 MoA)
Adjustment resolution 0.1 mrad or 1/4 MOA
One of the things to keep in mind is that the optics of the 30mm TT315M and 34mm TT315P are absolutely identical. The only difference is with tube size and turret design. What that means is that the optical system is designed to operate over a wider range of adjustment of the 34mm model. In most scopes, there is degradation of optical performance toward the edges of the adjustment range and a shift in parallax. In the 30mm TT315M model, optical performance and parallax are maintained through the entirety of the working adjustment range.
As far as bases go, getting a 15 or 20 MOA sloped base is a good practice for any precision scope. What's the downside?
ILya
Josh0419,
I think ILya makes a good case for getting a mount with 20 moa built in for the 3-15M (provided your rail is 0 moa/flat of course). As he says "Why not", especially in the case of the 3-15M so you can have full travel? I am so used to 20 or 30moa built into a rail that I had almost forgotten about canted mounts. ILya reminded me in another thread where he has his 3-15M mounted to a .308 Fix (0 moa in the rail).
Excellent choice by the way on the 3-15M. It is my favorite all around optic, and really tough to beat unless you have specific reticle/max-power/high number of mils on the turret needs. What reticle did you go with (Gen. 2 Mil-dot here)?
Some good 30mm/20moa unimount options that are not QD and not max price: Aadmount, Nightforce, Geissele. Up a bit in price: Spuhr. Of note, the two bolt setup on the NF and Geissele is pretty fast to get on and off if you have the wrench handy (probably could stash one in your grip?). They are all reasonably fast to get on and off with the correct wrench handy though (talking about in a pinch, not torquing exactly...although Fix It Sticks with the right parts are very compact), and that is one of several reasons that for me QD is not really a draw.
Some good 30mm/20moa unimount options that are QD and not max price: Bobro, other? If you go up in price, then you can talk Spuhr, GDi, and Era-tac. I have no experience with Era-tac personally though, so I defer to others and their good reviews. Also Era-Tac does not seem to have a cantilevered QD mount (though they do have a bolt-attach one). As noted, horizontally split rings are the way to go here, as well as cantilevered to some degree for mounting flexibility.
Further Notes:
I love ARC rings and mounts and use them when I can. The single bolt design is so nice for mounting and I have never had a set be anything other than excellent. However, with the 3-15M I prefer "standard" horizontally split rings with a thinner top half so I can see the elevation turret and markings more easily. The ARC rings are a bit tall for that. They work great on the TT "P" series as the turret housing and markings are higher up, but on the 3-15M they are tall enough to be annoying (for me).
If you like to have a scope mounted level, the options with the 4 screw rings will give you a little more flexibility there than the 6 screw rings (typically talking about mounting the level on the front/obj. side of the turret where there is limited space). If you mount your level on the eyepiece/rear side of the turret, then no worries.
Hope that helps dude, surely those aren't the only options but those are all great mounts. Congrats on the sweet rifle and great scope choice! Hope you get it mounted up quick and go out shooting!
-TSean
I think ILya makes a good case for getting a mount with 20 moa built in for the 3-15M (provided your rail is 0 moa/flat of course). As he says "Why not", especially in the case of the 3-15M so you can have full travel? I am so used to 20 or 30moa built into a rail that I had almost forgotten about canted mounts. ILya reminded me in another thread where he has his 3-15M mounted to a .308 Fix (0 moa in the rail).
Excellent choice by the way on the 3-15M. It is my favorite all around optic, and really tough to beat unless you have specific reticle/max-power/high number of mils on the turret needs. What reticle did you go with (Gen. 2 Mil-dot here)?
Some good 30mm/20moa unimount options that are not QD and not max price: Aadmount, Nightforce, Geissele. Up a bit in price: Spuhr. Of note, the two bolt setup on the NF and Geissele is pretty fast to get on and off if you have the wrench handy (probably could stash one in your grip?). They are all reasonably fast to get on and off with the correct wrench handy though (talking about in a pinch, not torquing exactly...although Fix It Sticks with the right parts are very compact), and that is one of several reasons that for me QD is not really a draw.
Some good 30mm/20moa unimount options that are QD and not max price: Bobro, other? If you go up in price, then you can talk Spuhr, GDi, and Era-tac. I have no experience with Era-tac personally though, so I defer to others and their good reviews. Also Era-Tac does not seem to have a cantilevered QD mount (though they do have a bolt-attach one). As noted, horizontally split rings are the way to go here, as well as cantilevered to some degree for mounting flexibility.
Further Notes:
I love ARC rings and mounts and use them when I can. The single bolt design is so nice for mounting and I have never had a set be anything other than excellent. However, with the 3-15M I prefer "standard" horizontally split rings with a thinner top half so I can see the elevation turret and markings more easily. The ARC rings are a bit tall for that. They work great on the TT "P" series as the turret housing and markings are higher up, but on the 3-15M they are tall enough to be annoying (for me).
If you like to have a scope mounted level, the options with the 4 screw rings will give you a little more flexibility there than the 6 screw rings (typically talking about mounting the level on the front/obj. side of the turret where there is limited space). If you mount your level on the eyepiece/rear side of the turret, then no worries.
Hope that helps dude, surely those aren't the only options but those are all great mounts. Congrats on the sweet rifle and great scope choice! Hope you get it mounted up quick and go out shooting!
-TSean
Good Lord, I need to have my eyes examined, how did I miss that, how embarrassing.
I'd suggest giving thought to a couple of things;
1. QD's. I had a very nice (un-named) one piece mount with QD features. I mainly go to formal ranges and not so much into the woods and no competitions where I have to walk long disctances (two hip replacements). I had my Minox ZP-5 on the QD mount and every time I had to momentarily leave the range (potty stop, Range office, etc.) I was scared to death I'd come back to my spot and my scope (and QD mount) would be gone. I've gone to Spuhr 4006's (non-QD) and feel more at ease that my scope(s) won't grow legs. If stolen, it would have to be the whole rifle/mount/scope combo. Seems less likely.
2. I always try to get the lowest rise possible in a mount. Is there a specific reason you want 1.5" ? The lower the mount, the less rocking of the scope, relative to the bore axis and hopefully, more consistent shot placement. Yes, there is such a thing as too low of a mount, but somewhere mid-way between 1.5" and 1.1" or 1.2" may be a better choice.
1. QD's. I had a very nice (un-named) one piece mount with QD features. I mainly go to formal ranges and not so much into the woods and no competitions where I have to walk long disctances (two hip replacements). I had my Minox ZP-5 on the QD mount and every time I had to momentarily leave the range (potty stop, Range office, etc.) I was scared to death I'd come back to my spot and my scope (and QD mount) would be gone. I've gone to Spuhr 4006's (non-QD) and feel more at ease that my scope(s) won't grow legs. If stolen, it would have to be the whole rifle/mount/scope combo. Seems less likely.
2. I always try to get the lowest rise possible in a mount. Is there a specific reason you want 1.5" ? The lower the mount, the less rocking of the scope, relative to the bore axis and hopefully, more consistent shot placement. Yes, there is such a thing as too low of a mount, but somewhere mid-way between 1.5" and 1.1" or 1.2" may be a better choice.
Honestly I’ve heard that 1.4-1.5 in works well for adding a NV/thermal clip on. I don’t have much experience in that area, just what I’ve read. Thanks for your help.I'd suggest giving thought to a couple of things;
1. QD's. I had a very nice (un-named) one piece mount with QD features. I mainly go to formal ranges and not so much into the woods and no competitions where I have to walk long disctances (two hip replacements). I had my Minox ZP-5 on the QD mount and every time I had to momentarily leave the range (potty stop, Range office, etc.) I was scared to death I'd come back to my spot and my scope (and QD mount) would be gone. I've gone to Spuhr 4006's (non-QD) and feel more at ease that my scope(s) won't grow legs. If stolen, it would have to be the whole rifle/mount/scope combo. Seems less likely.
2. I always try to get the lowest rise possible in a mount. Is there a specific reason you want 1.5" ? The lower the mount, the less rocking of the scope, relative to the bore axis and hopefully, more consistent shot placement. Yes, there is such a thing as too low of a mount, but somewhere mid-way between 1.5" and 1.1" or 1.2" may be a better choice.
Full disclosure; I don't have experience there, so I will refrain from commenting and defer to those that have.
I spoke with mile high shooting. They also recommended a 1.5 in for clearance if using a Tenabraex ARD. From all the help I’ve received here it looks like a Spuhr cantilever mount with 20 moa base would work perfectly.
You don't need a cantilever mount for a large frame upper, straight mounts are able to provide enough eye relief without a cantilever because of the extended rail on top due to the "larger" frame of the upper receiver. The below rifles (both large frame AR's) have standard (non-cantilevered) mounts. I'm not saying not to buy a cantilever mount, I'm just saying it is not necessary for a large frame AR. If this mount might ever go on an AR-15 upper, then I can see why you might opt for the cantilever style.
nice, I really like the look of the non-cantilever mounts. Is that a S&B 5-20 ultrashort on top.
Yes it is, that was in an ERA-TAC mount which are also really nice. The bottom is a Burris XTR II 4-20 in an ARC M10 QD-L mount.
Very nice, both the S&B 5-20 and 3-20 we’re optics I was looking at before getting the TT.
I asked the same question a year ago when looking and looking and looking for the best option for a 624i mount on a bolt action GAP 6.5 bolt action. Mike at CSTatical after hearing my intended use suggested I may want to consider the GDI brand. Yes they are expensive, did I pay to much,,, yeah am I satisfied YES. Do other manufactures produce solid QD mts, yes. You have a top tier optic. If you anticipate moving it from rifle to rifle GDI is a wise choice. I have got to the point where I view QD mounts as part of the learning process. I now subscribe to the school of thought of keep it simple and stick with Badger rings. Enjoy the process. Trust your gut.
Thanks, I appreciate the help. I’m going with the Spuhr 30mm qdp, 38mm height cantilever so that it can be put on an AR if needed.
I use Seekins rings on everything. I swap scopes back and forth like crazy. But, here is where my Premier Heritage Light Tactical (predecessor to the TT315M) sits now. In Seekins 30mm "low" .82" rings on a Badger Ordinance 22MOA Picatinny riser. Gets me close to all of my other 20MOA Picatinny rail zeros.
I have two of them that hold zero just fine. As long as I do not move them off the rifle. Not trying to be difficult. My experience with QD mounts. No matter how much I spent on a QDM 400 plus or 150, impact shift occurred. Was it major,,, that depends on your tolerance level of variation. I wasted so much time taking off my day optic at sunset and putting on the thermal. Then repeating the process at sunrise. Put it on and leave it on.
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