Show off your Manners PRS-TCS Stocks

Had one, liked it, would buy another lol

I bought a TCS off the PX about 2 weeks ago and liked it so much I ordered another today.

The one I bought off the PX has a non arcalock steel rail and I wanted that on the new stock too... turns out not only is the steel rail not available from manners anymore (it's now a non arcalock aluminum rail) but the 2 rails don't even share the same bolt spacing, so I'd have to drill holes and bond new inserts if I want both stocks to be configured identically... Kind of odd.

With their wait times for new orders being so long, my new stock will probably come with some entirely new rail and weight configuration, lol
 
Well that’s lame 😒 is it the 360 precision one?

The steel rail on the stock I just bought off the PX is marked MCS on the front... It's a manners steel rail, not the 360 precision steel rail.

I can see manners offering a choice of steel or aluminum depending on the buyers preference for weight (it appears you can only get aluminum now)-- but changing the bolt pattern is kind of odd and that means if you buy another rail you might have to redrill your stock and bond in another thread insert if the bolt pattern is different.

I guess I'll see what my new stock has when it gets here and what the weight is. The weight of the manners steel rail with all weights installed in the used stock I just bought is 38.2oz.
 
Yeah, I'm kind of annoyed about the TCS rail situation too, if I decide to set up another rifle I'd like it exactly the same as the rig I'm running now.

I have the same steel rail you have, which is what was offered initially. (I was actually about to buy that one you got from the PX if you hadn't, I don't need to build another rifle right now, I was just going to throw another one with the steel rail on the shelf for a rainy day.)

I've had both the OG steel rail w/ steel weights and the more common Manners/A419 ARCA-Lock aluminum rail w/ brass weights, and the steel one is 1000% better IMO, stronger/tougher/nicer, heavier, etc (the rails having different hole patterns isn't a big deal to me).

My guess is that aluminum is cheaper and easier to machine than steel, and it's a bummer if Manners dropped the steel rail due to that.
 
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The Arca rail in the picture is the Manners weighted rail.

It also has a custom steel weight that is bolted in between the Arca rail and the stock fore end.

I ended up removing the custom steel weight, I found that I shot better without it
 
Just got my build from Altus today and threw the scope on. Altus dis great and beat to lead time i was originally given by almost 2 months. I am really digging the midnight camo. I was afraid I wasn't going to like it because they started using less color but it looks great in person. Don't mind the clutter on my table
 

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Anybody happen to have one of these (or any other manners stock) in gloss scorched earth and can post pics?

I ordered my second TCS in gloss copperhead after seeing pics of that finish in this thread, but now I'm thinking gloss scorched earth might be the way to go. I've only seen pics of matte scorched earth stocks though, be nice to see a pic of one in gloss so I can make up my mind.
 
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@MuleyTime Could you compare the Zeiss S3 to other scopes and if so, how does it hold up ? Pros and Cons ?

I got some comparisons in here.

 
Anybody happen to have one of these (or any other manners stock) in gloss scorched earth and can post pics?

I ordered my second TCS in gloss copperhead after seeing pics of that finish in this thread, but now I'm thinking gloss scorched earth might be the way to go. I've only seen pics of matte scorched earth stocks though, be nice to see a pic of one in gloss so I can make up my mind.
Post in thread '6GT current loads and progress' https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/6gt-current-loads-and-progress.6995239/post-9933517
 

Thanks!

Looks good, but the flat camo colors used for the scorched earth camo don't "pop" as much as I was expecting even with the gloss top coat.

I think I'll stick with the current metallic copperhead (or maybe high plains metallic, it looks great too) for TCS #2 to maximize the effect of the high gloss, and I'll possibly get an LRH in matte scorched earth for my lightweight/hunting 7 PRC build. Still trying to decide if I want to do a HNT26 or LRH for the 7 PRC build. I have a short action HNT26 for another rifle and really like it; comfy, solid, light, and folding is nice when you need it... but a scorched earth LRH would be nice too.
 
Hi Guys,

i´ve read a couple of times on this thread, that some of you said, the Trigger is to far away for them from the Grip. Can someone please measure and post the distance from the Front of the Grip to the Trigger Shoe ? I use curved Triggers and on the current one, i have the option to move to shoe a little bit forward and back.

Right now i have a MDT Oryx and i think that the Trigger is to close for me, so it´s the opposite.
Just for Reference, Curve of the Blade (nearest to Grip) to middle of Grip is ~ 1 3/4"
 
Hi Guys,

i´ve read a couple of times on this thread, that some of you said, the Trigger is to far away for them from the Grip. Can someone please measure and post the distance from the Front of the Grip to the Trigger Shoe ? I use curved Triggers and on the current one, i have the option to move to shoe a little bit forward and back.

Right now i have a MDT Oryx and i think that the Trigger is to close for me, so it´s the opposite.
Just for Reference, Curve of the Blade (nearest to Grip) to middle of Grip is ~ 1 3/4"

Curved trigger on mine is 2” on my TCS, it’s too far forward to build a very square 90* trigger finger unless you get forward with your fingers with an air gap between the grip, I’d change it if I could. I’m 6’3” with an XL glove size for reference.

My others measure

McMillan A5 is 1 1/2 -1 5/8”
KRG Bravo 1 1/2 - 1 5/8”
AI AXMC (moveable trigger) 1 1/2”
AR SPR 1 - 1/8” (on the short side for me)

If your square behind the gun, want good grip engagement and want 90* trigger finger I can’t imagine anyone needing 2”.
 
You guys with flat shoes on a TCS must be sasquatch descendents. I have xl-xxl hands and there's no way I could get my trigger finder to 90° on the mcs grip w/ a straight shoe, barely on a curved. Great stock otherwise, but I sold because the grip sucked, no adjustment and too far away from the trigger.
5yo - 6gt - Manners TCS 😊

 

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Choked up on the grip and using the tip his finger to break the trigger, yup that's what I'd expect from a 5yo. What's the point of this video? Everyone has a slightly different preferred grip on the stock and a different finger placement. I like the have the edge the trigger blade in the crease formed by first knuckle. Some like the pad, some the tip. Cuz something feels natural and ergo to you, don't mean it'll work for someone else. Manners took an educated guess on Tigger placement to grip that'll work for most, be optimum for some, no good for a a few. They prob probably have the same mindset as most men, rather be too long than too short!
 
Choked up on the grip and using the tip his finger to break the trigger, yup that's what I'd expect from a 5yo. What's the point of this video? Everyone has a slightly different preferred grip on the stock and a different finger placement. I like the have the edge the trigger blade in the crease formed by first knuckle. Some like the pad, some the tip. Cuz something feels natural and ergo to you, don't mean it'll work for someone else. Manners took an educated guess on Tigger placement to grip that'll work for most, be optimum for some, no good for a a few. They prob probably have the same mindset as most men, rather be too long than too short!

How dare you question J.D. McBee!

:)

-Stan
 
Hi Guys,

i´ve read a couple of times on this thread, that some of you said, the Trigger is to far away for them from the Grip. Can someone please measure and post the distance from the Front of the Grip to the Trigger Shoe ? I use curved Triggers and on the current one, i have the option to move to shoe a little bit forward and back.

Right now i have a MDT Oryx and i think that the Trigger is to close for me, so it´s the opposite.
Just for Reference, Curve of the Blade (nearest to Grip) to middle of Grip is ~ 1 3/4"
Curved trigger on mine is 2” on my TCS, it’s too far forward to build a very square 90* trigger finger unless you get forward with your fingers with an air gap between the grip, I’d change it if I could. I’m 6’3” with an XL glove size for reference.

My others measure

McMillan A5 is 1 1/2 -1 5/8”
KRG Bravo 1 1/2 - 1 5/8”
AI AXMC (moveable trigger) 1 1/2”
AR SPR 1 - 1/8” (on the short side for me)

If your square behind the gun, want good grip engagement and want 90* trigger finger I can’t imagine anyone needing 2”.

MIne is ~1.75" with a TT Diamond Pro Curved. I'm 6'2" and wear an XXL Mechanics glove and don't have a problem getting a nice 90-degree trigger press when squared up behind the gun.

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The buttpad assembly has 2 posts. But only one of them bottoms out before going flush, I can't remember which one. I trimmed that one down the amount needed, since I'll never use a long LOP, and they are replaceable.
I'll pull it and snap a pic tonight, gotta swap pads anyway--not a fan of the factory option; also wish there was built in cant adjustment!
 
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The top one needs room, probably for the cheekrest hardware.

I did the same to mine. I kept the wrench flats though. I cut from the other end and found the hole and threads were already deep enough to re-use the original post mounting screw. I would love to have a cant adjustment as well

Thanks for the ideas guys. I've gone to a shorter LOP over the last year, and once the colder weather hits and I'm wearing more layers, I might want to modify mine too.
 
I my opinion cant adjustment is over rated, I can do it with all my chassis and have found the recoil tracks the same for the most part. If it's just for comfort I understand that.
 
For the record, I don’t care about buttpad cant adjustment either. I’d rather keep some things neutral and have less hardware to maintain or possibly work loose.

One of the things I like most about the TCS is that they’re simple and built like a tank, not much to go wrong , while some other chassis’ out there have like a dozen things that could work loose and mess you up.