Night Vision Sighting in my LWTS

[bikeracer]

I was finally able to get time to sight in my new-ish LWTS that I bought a few weeks ago at MHSA. Apologies for my ignorance - is there any reason why I can’t sight in during daylight hours? I started on paper - in the foreground - and then went to steel - the two plates in the background are 4” and 6”.

 

[cake5150]

No reason at all, I zeroed mine in daylight. You will typically get better contrast on standard black and white targets in good sunlight since the black portions of the target heat up a bit more than the plain white paper. Congrats on your purchase, they are great scopes. The controls are just so well thought out and yow that sexy image

 

[bikeracer]

Thanks. Yeah I was really pleased with how well the reticle tracked. The UI on the menu systems is so straightforward too. Next I will try it with a day scope - likely a NF ATACR 1-8.

 

[bikeracer]

Got the LWTS sighted in with my NF 2x10 - 24. Was surprised how easy this was to do.

 

[Markhammett]

Did you do anything other than mount it in front of the day scope?

 

[cake5150]

Did you do anything other than mount it in front of the day scope?

Maybe he meant he was measuring the POI shift? If so, I did the same thing when I got mine. Aside from the tiny vertical offset caused by the periscope design, the POI shift was negligible. Great scopes, I loved mine.

 

[Markhammett]

Maybe he meant he was measuring the POI shift? If so, I did the same thing when I got mine. Aside from the tiny vertical offset caused by the periscope design, the POI shift was negligible. Great scopes, I loved mine.

Reason I ask is I am experiencing a substantial impact shift with mine. I’m assuming it’s something simple, but I haven’t figured it out yet.

 

[bikeracer]

Well, it does look like with the LWTS in front of the NF I am about 1/2 mil high - is this typical? I double checked the NF and it’s spot on. I do need to get back and double check the LWTS as a dedicated unit - I think it was also a bit high - I had to hold low but I don’t know by how much because the manual doesn’t have any info on the M4/M16 reticle. Any ideas?

 

[Markhammett]

Well, it does look like with the LWTS in front of the NF I am about 1/2 mil high - is this typical? I double checked the NF and it’s spot on. I do need to get back and double check the LWTS as a dedicated unit - I think it was also a bit high - I had to hold low but I don’t know by how much because the manual doesn’t have any info on the M4/M16 reticle. Any ideas?

Mine is more like 5 moa

 

[bikeracer]

Ok - so about 1.5 mils. I could be a 1 mil high - I was back on the bottom of the 6’” plate about a third of the way up to center by dialing .5 down but it started snowing so I stopped.

is this a typical or a known issue?

Mine is more like 5 moa

 

[Markhammett]

Ok - so about 1.5 mils. I could be a 1 mil high - I was back on the bottom of the 6’” plate about a third of the way up to center by dialing .5 down but it started snowing so I stopped.

is this a typical or a known issue?

No. Normally they are with in 1 moa or .3-.4 mills. I’ve been back and forth emailing l3 the last few days. I’ll let you know what I come up with.

 

[bikeracer]

Is it possible that the reticle has to be zeroed in dedicated mode in order for the thermal to be POI aligned in clip-on mode even though the reticle isn’t in use?

I zeroed the reticle in NFOV or 3X which means that the center dot is 300 yds. but I’m zeroing at 100 yds. I had a tough time zeroing at WFOV/1X.

 

[Markhammett]

Is it possible that the reticle has to be zeroed in dedicated mode in order for the thermal to be POI aligned in clip-on mode even though the reticle isn’t in use?

I zeroed the reticle in NFOV or 3X which means that the center dot is 300 yds. but I’m zeroing at 100 yds. I had a tough time zeroing at WFOV/1X.

Are you talking about zeroing the lwts as a stand-alone scope or you moving the lwts reticle to line up with the reticle in your day optic?

 

[bikeracer]

Are you talking about zeroing the lwts as a stand-alone scope or you moving the lwts reticle to line up with the reticle in your day optic?

Sorry I should have been more clear - I’m talking about how zeroing the LWTS in stand-alone might effect how this impacts POI in clip-on mode. When you set it to clip-on mode the reticle goes away and I’m using the day scope reticle. But I’m still wondering if even though there’s not a reticle in view zeroing still matters - because could explain why I’m off by 1 mil in clip on mode.

 

[Markhammett]

From what I understand the reticle moves on the screen when you sight it in so the adjustments are not relevant to your poi when used in clip on mode with a day optic.