I started with a RCBS Chargemaster, and I thought that is was great until I started consistently watching my loads on a Chrono. I was using high quality components, and doing everything else in the reloading process by the book, but I could not consistently keep my ES (extreme spread) below 20 fps. Shooting Long Range F-Class, that variation was costing me the difference between a X or a 10.
I then purchased a Gem Pro trying not to break the bank. I was throwing with the Chargemaster, and then checking with the Gem Pro. I found that the throws from the Chargemaster could vary by +/- a full grain (about 5-6 kernels of powder). With the Gem Pro, I was able to get that down to single kernel of powder. Then my ES dropped down to around 10 fps.
I was very happy, and then the Gem Pro went completely to $#!@. It would not hold calibration, and it would drift all over the place. Good News, Gem Pro warrantied it and sent me another one.
As they say, spend once, and cry once, so I sold the Gem Pro and got the A&D 120.
I have been using it for over 3 years now, and if there is 1 piece of reloading equipment that is a must, that would be it IMHO.
Regarding some of the comments made about being successful with other products.
My experience with the RCBS Chargemaster:
- I have gone through 3 of them in the past 10 years, and none of them performed the same. One of them worked extremely well, and the other 2 were hit or miss.
- If you reprogram them, and use some device (straw or insert) to help with the trickle, you can increase their performance/consistency.
- Based on my experiences, the average accuracy that I can expect out of one is +/- a grain. Once again, that may vary based on the unit, or based on the type of powder you are throwing.
- If a load that is +/- a grain is acceptable, then they will work just fine.
For me it ultimately comes down to the chrono numbers. If I can’t get the ES to around 10 fps or better, then it is not going to work for what I am trying to accomplish. You ultimately have to look at what ES number you are willing to accept, and what type of device it take to consistently get you there?
Some other notes:
- Per some comments above, if you are using an electronic scale, you really need to address all of the potential electronic interference sources. My scales are on a dedicated circuit. If you can’t do that, try to at least make sure nothing on that circuit is in use when the scale is. Watch your lighting source, fluorescent lights are a big issue. I use a voltage regulator/power conditioner between the outlet and power cord for the scale. High quality electronic scales are only as good as the power source that they operate on.
- Protect the scale when not is use. Dust may not seem like an issue, but it can cause issues.
- Protect everything involved from static electricity build up. Like the electronic circuit, this can also cause consistency issues.
- Use high quality calibration weights, and check your calibration very frequently.
- Make sure your scale is on an isolated surface, movement from other operations can cause issues.
- Make sure your scale is level, and check it frequently. My scale being about a ¼ of a bubble off on the level can change the measurement by about a full grain.
If you are good with a load that AVERAGES 1 MOA, then most of this is probably just overkill. But if you are striving for a VERY CONSISTENT 0.5 MOA load or better, this stuff can make a difference.
