Southern Utah National Park trip advice

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rjacobs

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    • Mar 10, 2013
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    #1
    Looking at doing a ~14 day trip through Southern Utah with my fiance as our honeymoon in September.

    She wants to camp. Im good with it, although planning at least a few nights in cabins. We are interested in hiking, but not really hard core, just day hiking. I havent researched the various trails yet to try to come up with a plan for each day.

    Im trying to come up with a logical progression to hit everything and thinking 2 days per area is enough, but maybe not. The drives from each place to the next are all around 2 hours give or take so there is time to stop and see a few things along the way each time we move.

    My drive from Dallas is 2 days to get to Zion(Spingdale, UT). Planning to camp at The Watchman if I can make the reservation(6 months out).

    2 days in zion.

    Travel to Bryce Canyon area. There is camping in Bryce. There is also, slightly to the west, Panguich Lake which has cabins for a reasonable cost(not much more than camping).

    2 days in Bryce Canyon "area".

    ----Any reason to hit the Escalante area for a night or two in between Bryce and Capitol Reef????------

    Travel to Capitol Reef National Park. Seems to be plenty of camp grounds up here and not as popular as Zion/Bryce so shouldnt be a problem getting a camp site.

    2 days in Capitol Reef National Park.

    Travel to Moab "area". Canyonlands and Arches national parks. Plenty of camp grounds also.

    Thinking 3 days in "Moab".

    Then im thinking 1, maybe 2 days in Glen Canyon.

    Plus 2 more days driving home, gives me around my 14 days.


    Im open to suggestions on my route, length of stays, where to camp or stay in cabins, hiking trails, restaurants, etc...
     
    #5
    Don't forget to uncover the lost Dutchman's mine, and spend the rest of your days selling books that tell people where it is. LOL

    I drove through the area on my home over christmas. I hope to make a return trip. Pretty amazing country.
     
    #6
    I love hiking so does my wife.( At least 30 mi /work week)On our honeymoon we planned on a lot of it. Instead we did a lot of “lounging around.”

    Also a lot of those areas are vast and you might consider fewer areas with more exploration per area.
     
    #8
    We spent 8 hours hiking up the river in Zion

    It was fun... some places were dry, the rest was typically 2 feet deep.

    a few places we had to swim....

    If I had a 1911 with me, i would have head to detail strip it and clean it in the hotel and maybe pull the dipstick on my car to get some oil for it..... that's if I had it with me....

    to do the hike again, i would have picked up some $2 pool inter tubes... floating back would have been easier and more fun
     
    #10
    lots of loops to hike in bryce canyon... seeing the spyres from up top is cool.... wandering among them gives a different perspective.


    The Best Hikes in Bryce Canyon
    1. Rim Trail: 0.5 to 5.5 miles one way. A popular trail above Bryce Canyon that connects all the scenic overlooks from Fairyland Point to Bryce Point. The 0.5 mile section between Sunrise and Sunset points is paved and accessible to those with wheelchairs.
    2. Queens Garden Trail: 1.8 miles. A short trail descending below the canyon rim that takes hikers to fascinating rock formations including Gulliver’s Castle, the Queen’s Castle, and Queen Elizabeth herself.
    3. Navajo Loop Trail: 1.4 miles. A popular trail that makes a short 1- to 2-hour loop from the rim at Sunset Point down to the floor of Bryce Canyon. The trail visits favorite hoodoo formations such as Wall Street, Twin Bridges, and Thor’s Hammer.
    4. Bristlecone Loop Trail: 1 mile. A short loop that stays entirely above the canyon rim as it traverses a subalpine fir forest. The trail is named after the bristlecone pine trees, the oldest tree species in the world, which is found more frequently along this trail than along other trails in Bryce Canyon National Park Utah.
    5. Mossy Cave Trail: 0.8 mile. A short stroll into the reddish pinnacles of Bryce Canyon from UT 12 in the northern end of the park that ends at a mossy, seeping cave, offering a smaller-scale sampler of Bryce grandeur for travelers unable to travel into the main area of the park.





    and it's utah, alcohol is still limited...
     
    #11
    If you're headed up towards Cap Reef, also in that area between there and Moab is great BLM land for dispersed camping near Temple Mountain. Great day hikes from there are Goblin Valley and Little Wild Horse Canyon.

    If you have Google maps or earth:

    Camp: 38.665 N, 110.691 W
    Goblin Val.: 38.564 N, 110.703 W
    L'il Wild Hrse Cnyn: 38.582 N, 110.803 W

    When I lived in CO, my buds and I would camp and explore the areas with our kids during spring break. Gorgeous country, and it's FREE!
     
    #13
    My wife and I have been to 16 national parks (which is pretty good considering we live in the midwest right now) and Zion is by far my favorite. We even went back a few years ago. It's just a different experience. While a park like Yosemite is beautiful, Zion (and southern Utah in general) felt more like a playground. Our favorite trails there were the Narrows (the trail up the Virgin River that hermosabeach mentioned) Angel's Landing, and Hidden Canyon. September should be a good time, although maybe still a little busy. We always prefer to go to National Parks well into the off season because we prefer cold weather over being around that many people. Park campgrounds can still be obnoxious, but like someone brought up, in southern Utah I would find some BLM land to have to yourself. The park rangers can help you find somewhere if you are unsure. My wife is fine with camping, but has her limits, so we would spend a night or two in a tent, and then I would get us a hotel room for a night. Honestly it's a good idea, especially so you don't get burned out midway through your trip. A hot meal and a soft bed is good for moral, no matter who you are. Arches and Canyonlands is worth seeing as well. Canyonlands is kinda like the grand canyon to me, not that much fun to hike, but cool as hell to see. I actually liked it a lot more than the Grand Canyon. And Arches is also one of my favorite parks. They are within an hour of each other which helps, and Moab is in the middle of the two parks. As far as time as a couple in our mid-twenties this is how much time I feel was needed at each park: Zion- two days was plenty. Canyonlands-1 day. Arches- 2 days ideally, we saw everything in one. The other parks you mentioned we have yet to go to, because I cannot seem to go to that area without going to Zion. I would seriously go back for a third time and have just as much fun. I'm not sure of your age/fitness level, but the amount of time you have set aside should be plenty. We have been on those 2-week park trips, and we try to milk all we can out of them. We get to see a lot, but trying to see an entire park in 1 day and moving on to the next can be exhausting. Let me know if you have any more specific questions about Zion, Arches, or Canyonlands. My wife makes fun of me because I literally create binders for our vacation plans (I'm not the "wing it" type) and I probably still have them.
    Have fun.
     
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    #14
    Grew up in the area north of Capital Reef. Beautiful area lots of BLM land with free camping was a real fun area grow up and do scouting. Sadly it has been a long time since i have spent much time there.

    Few lessor known attractions:
    Wedge overlook.
    Cleveland Loyd dinosaur quary
    Buckhorn Wash Pictograph Panel
     
    #15
    Three days in Moab would be good. One day for Canyonlands “Islands in the sky”, one day at Arches, and one day at the south section of Canyonlands. If you can’t make the south section I wouldn’t sweat it. In my opinion and I think many others would agree, it’s not nearly as scenic as the other two. Would almost recommend a second day at Arches instead if your doing alot of hiking. Sunrise at Mesa Arch and Sunset at Delicate Arch are two things not to be missed. If your in to Jeeping, a Jeep tour of Hells Revenge is good. We preferred a scenic tour of the Caney creek area up to Hurrah Pass.
     
    #18
    We are sort of just discovering that area the last few years. We can only go in July and it is busy. National Parks are a no go for us. We avoid them like the plague. The seem to cater to foreigners and are absolutely over run that time of year. If you study you can find places just as beautiful and without the people that aren't national parks.

    Monument Valley: It is a one time deal that you need to see. It is beautiful but owned by the Indians. It's management is more screwed up than if the feds had it.

    Lake Powell and Glen Canyon: Awesome! Very beautiful. Fun drive. If you can take the Bull Frog Crossing ferry on state route 276. 27 minute ferry across the lake. I never have because we are in a motorhome, but I want to. The lake has 1800 miles of shoreline to explore. I want to rent a houseboat sometime and take the family.

    Family favorite campground: Can't believe I am sharing this but Wind Whistle Campground is a BLM campground on the road to Needles Overlook near Monticello. That is south of Moab. You will likely have it to yourself even in July. Beautiful and quiet. I could sit in a lawn chair with a ice chest of beer and do nothing. Very relaxing.

    Road 128: It heads northeast from Moab along the Colorado River. Beautiful drive if it fits your itinerary.

    Gateway, CO and highway 141: Just east of Moab. Another beautiful drive if it is on your way. No one will be on it and you better be supplied up before taking it. Nothing developed along the way.

    Arches: Very pretty and must see once. Avoid summer. When we were there you couldn't find parking at the look outs. Cars were lined up like parking at a farm estate auction. Hardly anyone spoke English. Some Spanish. Lots and lots of French and Germans. Lots of Orientals. I didn't feel like I was in my own country. Kinda frustrated because you and I own that park. Not relaxing at all. Like driving in a city rush hour.

    I want to see more of this area. Problem is the Juy timeframe for us. You can really bake your brain in the heat so we have been going to southwest Montana a lot last few years.
     
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    #20
    September should be a great time to go. School is back in Session so not as many kids or people. We went in October and the weather was perfect. Never had a problem finding a parking spot at any of the arches national park trailheads.
     
    #21
    Thanks for all the advice. Still in the planning stages so I am taking everything in right now and trying to figure things out. Have a long time to get everything nailed down.
     
    #24
    shaun1826 said:
    I absolutely wouldn’t do Hells Revenge in a renred jeep unless you are very experienced in off roading at high inclinations.
    Click to expand...

    When you rent one, generally a specialized service in Moab and not your pedestrian car rental, they suggest trails to do around Moab. Hell's Revenge is the top of that list for many reasons. While the pucker factor is real, the danger is not. Yes, things can happen but Hell's Revenge is mall crawling in the world of Moab. Did you not watch the video(s) above of a Lincoln locked 2WD sedan doing Hell's Revenge?

    Or, you could just go on a "tour" they offer and ride in the back of someone else's Jeep. Me? I prefer to control the excitement button on my adventures. ?

    I've done it in a Jeep, my current Tacoma, several times, and my CRF250X.
     
    #26
    Jefe's Dope said:
    I'd rent a Jeep or sidexside in Moab. At least do Hell's Revenge. It basically starts just outside of town.
    Click to expand...

    Thinking SxS. Place rents RZR1000's for $300 for a full day(8-5) and gives trail maps and what not. The jeep rental places seemed like either stock or 2" budget boost jeeps...not my thing.

    shaun1826 said:
    I absolutely wouldn’t do Hells Revenge in a rented jeep unless you are very experienced in off roading at high inclinations.
    Click to expand...

    Im pretty experienced at off roading, but the jeeps out there dont do anything for me.

    Jefe's Dope said:
    Or, you could just go on a "tour" they offer and ride in the back of someone else's Jeep. Me? I prefer to control the excitement button on my adventures. ?
    Click to expand...

    fuck a jeep tour.... gouge my eyes out now.
     
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    #27
    13 years ago a buddy and I did a two week, 3900 mile motorcycle ride through New Mexico, Colorado, southern Utah and northern Arizona. Also made a detour to Las Vegas and Lake Mead where we rode across Hoover Dam. Zion NP was hands down the most impressive natural scenery on the entire trip... until we decided to ride to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

    Ho... Lee... Crap.

    That first view down into the Grand Canyon was about as close to a religious experience as I've ever had. At least in a visual sense. It was sort of like seeing mountains in reverse, but that doesn't begin to capture the shock of what my mind felt while trying to process what I was seeing. I thought I knew what a canyon was, having travelled all through the Texas Hill Country, across the Pecos River and up to Palo Duro Canyon in the Panhandle, as well as trips to the Royal Gorge and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado.

    Nope. Not even close. The Grand Canyon is in a separate category altogether.

    So, if you are going to be in that part of the country and you haven't yet been to the Grand Canyon, you need to consider taking the time to go see it. It really is that impressive.
     
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    #28
    rhsc said:
    13 years ago a buddy and I did a two week, 3900 mile motorcycle ride through New Mexico, Colorado, southern Utah and northern Arizona. Also made a detour to Las Vegas and Lake Mead where we rode across Hoover Dam. Zion NP was hands down the most impressive natural scenery on the entire trip... until we decided to ride to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

    Ho... Lee... Crap.

    That first view down into the Grand Canyon was about as close to a religious experience as I've ever had. At least in a visual sense. It was sort of like seeing mountains in reverse, but that doesn't begin to capture the shock of what my mind felt while trying to process what I was seeing. I thought I knew what a canyon was, having travelled all through the Texas Hill Country, across the Pecos River and up to Palo Duro Canyon in the Panhandle, as well as trips to the Royal Gorge and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado.

    Nope. Not even close. The Grand Canyon is in a separate category altogether.

    So, if you are going to be in that part of the country and you haven't yet been to the Grand Canyon, you need to consider taking the time to go see it. It really is that impressive.
    Click to expand...

    We are planning to do Grand Canyon at a different time as I think I could spend a week+ there alone. I have been to the grand canyon.

    I REALLY want to take my Harley or my Vette, but I know my truck is more practical. Been eyeing buying an Aluma MC10 motorcycle trailer though...even though I am VERY anti-trailering.
     
    #29
    Like to put in a vote for snow Canyon.
    More secluded camping than Zion which was kind of packed in like sardines when I was there.
    Easy to get away from the crowds if you're going though just have to go a little further than the masses are willing to go.
    Have fun!
     
    #30
    rhsc said:
    Zion NP was hands down the most impressive natural scenery on the entire trip... until we decided to ride to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

    Ho... Lee... Crap.
    Click to expand...

    Yessir. The hike down from Monument Point is one of the great desert experiences. You have to be comfortable with exposure since a fall will kill you, but dropping down the redwall into Surprise Valley* and then on down to Thunder River is like traveling back into the time of the Neanderathal. Thunder River is the only river in the world that flows into a creek, so it has that going for it...

    trippjn said:
    We are sort of just discovering that area the last few years. We can only go in July and it is busy. National Parks are a no go for us. We avoid them like the plague.
    Click to expand...

    I try to go in the spring. You have a chance of seeing cactus in bloom and the spring storms can be fantastic. Or a real pain in the ass. The National Parks are over-loved and filled up with foreign visitors that are rude, loud and smelly, especially in the summer. Spring, fall and winter are the best seasons for most of the parks.

    trippjn said:
    Monument Valley: It is a one time deal that you need to see. It is beautiful but owned by the Indians. It's management is more screwed up than if the feds had it.
    Click to expand...

    I keep going back there even though the management is as you say. Get the right light and it's pure magic. Hang out there during high winds and you will be hating life.

    trippjn said:
    Lake Powell and Glen Canyon: Awesome!
    Click to expand...

    Hayduke does not concur.

    trippjn said:
    Arches: Very pretty and must see once. Avoid summer.
    Click to expand...

    This is another place I go back to over and over. And yes, avoid summer unless you like the feeling of sitting in a microwave with a bag of popping corn.

    You mentioned the road along the Colorado that runs from Cisco to Moab. Along the way you can turn up Castle Valley and do the La Sal loop, which is very cool. You can stop off and do a hike at Fischer Towers that is wild and bizarre - these are big towers made up of semi-consolidated mud with wild and dangerous rock climbs on them.

    If you are around Moab, you want to drive out to Grand View Point. You look down across the White Rim to the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Infuckingcredible. Canyonlands is so big, you can't even scratch the surface in a month of camping and hiking.

    You want to have a high clearance vehicle and do your homework to really dig into the back roads of Utah.

    The Needles District west of Monticello is worth your time. The drive along Indian Creek never grows old. Stop by Newspaper Rock. Incredible and difficult crack climbing at Indian Creek - world class. Chessler Park is an excellent hike. Etc., etc.

    *: There's no shade, it's south-facing and it's 120 degrees: SURPRISE!
     
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    #31
    TripleBull said:
    This is another place I go back to over and over. And yes, avoid summer unless you like the feeling of sitting in a microwave with a bag of popping corn.

    You mentioned the road along the Colorado that runs from Cisco to Moab. Along the way you can turn up Castle Valley and do the La Sal loop, which is very cool. You can stop off and do a hike at Fischer Towers that is wild and bizarre - these are big towers made up of semi-consolidated mud with wild and dangerous rock climbs on them.

    If you are around Moab, you want to drive out to Grand View Point. You look down across the White Rim to the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Infuckingcredible. Canyonlands is so big, you can't even scratch the surface in a month of camping and hiking.

    You want to have a high clearance vehicle and do your homework to really dig into the back roads of Utah.
    Click to expand...

    Good analogy for the feel TripleBull.

    As far as the high clearance vehicle and homework. I have seen many who have been stuck for one reason or another.

    Remember to Bring plenty of water if you end up in the high desert on back roads. Far to many have not and suffered the consequences.
     
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    #33
    Snow Canyon is a beautiful place to spend a day too. It isn’t as busy as the national parks but every bit impressive for hiking. Gun lock is nearby that has amazing trails too. We have a book around somewhere with local hidden trails and have been impressed with the area. Do Angels Landing in Zion for sure and go all the way to the top.
    Some of the prettiest places in the Country are within a 2 hour drive of Zion. We bought a lot near Ivens/ St George area, just haven’t built or moved there yet.
     
    #35
    Tons of good suggestions but don't feel like you have to see it all. Take your time and enjoy the awesome scenery. Some of the most beautiful places in the world. Some places will have more people than you would probably like but there is a reason everyone wants to be their. I think all of these places should be on everybody's bucket list
     
    #36
    Again, just because I am not replying, doesnt mean I am not reading and taking all of this in. I appreciate all of the advice.

    The only 2 places I think I have to really be on the ball about making reservations is Zion and Bryce Canyon since we want to camp and it seems they sell out the camp grounds pretty quickly. Beyond that I think the schedule has some flex.
     
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    #37
    Just a quick update and maybe a little more insight.

    Booked Zion The Watchman campground Sept 8-11, Bryce Ruby's Inn campground Sept 11-14, Fruita NPS campground Sept 14-16, and a place in Moab called Kokopelli Lodge Sept 16-20.

    We were going to bring our dog, but decided against it.

    I also traded off my GMC 3/4 ton truck so vehicle selection is back up in the air. I bought a little Jeep Renegade from my dad(has 4wd), but its realistically a Fiat 500. I also have my 2019 Corvette. I REALLY want to take the Vette, but not sure on the roads. OBVIOUSLY wouldnt be venturing off road anywhere in a Vette and the Renegade isnt really much better. I just dont want to get out there and be on a bunch of gravel roads and what not for miles on end in the Vette. Campgrounds where I can roll in at low speeds in the vette are one thing, but having to go 3-4 miles on gravel access roads would suck. I DONT think this is the case with any of the places we are planning. I "think" we can pack everything into the Vette that we would need for camping as my stuff is all pretty compact.
     
    #38
    rjacobs said:
    Just a quick update and maybe a little more insight.

    Booked Zion The Watchman campground Sept 8-11, Bryce Ruby's Inn campground Sept 11-14, Fruita NPS campground Sept 14-16, and a place in Moab called Kokopelli Lodge Sept 16-20.

    We were going to bring our dog, but decided against it.

    I also traded off my GMC 3/4 ton truck so vehicle selection is back up in the air. I bought a little Jeep Renegade from my dad(has 4wd), but its realistically a Fiat 500. I also have my 2019 Corvette. I REALLY want to take the Vette, but not sure on the roads. OBVIOUSLY wouldnt be venturing off road anywhere in a Vette and the Renegade isnt really much better. I just dont want to get out there and be on a bunch of gravel roads and what not for miles on end in the Vette. Campgrounds where I can roll in at low speeds in the vette are one thing, but having to go 3-4 miles on gravel access roads would suck. I DONT think this is the case with any of the places we are planning. I "think" we can pack everything into the Vette that we would need for camping as my stuff is all pretty compact.
    Click to expand...

    Don't bring the Corvette. There are dirt and gravel roads all over the place and there is bound to be a lot of road construction as well at that time. I know its tempting but bring the renegade. (I live in southern Utah) while in heading to Bryce canyon stop at cedar breaks. It's a really cool place and near Bryce. Great overlook and amazing place. There is also a pull off while heading up to Bryce on highway 14 that you can pull off ( just east past Webster flats road) where you can see FOREVER and view the north end of Zion national park. Really cool view. While in Zion, make the 30 minute drive to snow canyon state park and hike near butterfly trail and petrified sand dunes. Incredibly unique views and area. worth the small drive. if Zion wasn't so close snow canyon would absolutely be a national park. Have fun! Congrats on the honeymoon. BRING THE JEEP.
     
    #41
    rjacobs said:
    Thinking SxS. Place rents RZR1000's for $300 for a full day(8-5) and gives trail maps and what not. The jeep rental places seemed like either stock or 2" budget boost jeeps...not my thing.



    Im pretty experienced at off roading, but the jeeps out there dont do anything for me.



    fuck a jeep tour.... gouge my eyes out now.
    Click to expand...


    I once did a Jeep tour in AK as it was basically free and I had 1 day off between work. Torwards the end of the day someone got stuck and the “guide” tied a tow strap to the tie rod to pull it out. I jumped up and said please
    don’t! Asked if I could drive and it was out in a matter of seconds. Everyone should go on some “tours” just for the entertainment value.
     
    #43
    Jefe's Dope said:
    Jeep. The option to explore is too great.
    Click to expand...

    This thing is not much better than a FWD car... its not a "jeep"...at all.

    thejeep said:
    Throw a spartan locker /lock right (cheap) (or spend more arb) in the rear diff and you can drive that fiat 500 (Jeep) lots and lots of places.
    Click to expand...

    I dont think you understand what is under this "jeep"... there are no lockers available...it doesnt have real solid axles... its FWD until it senses slip and then engages a clutch in the rear end or something like that... You can "engage" 4wd by forcing the rear clutches to lock.
     
    #44
    rjacobs said:
    This thing is not much better than a FWD car... its not a "jeep"...at all.



    I dont think you understand what is under this "jeep"... there are no lockers available...it doesnt have real solid axles... its FWD until it senses slip and then engages a clutch in the rear end or something like that... You can "engage" 4wd by forcing the rear clutches to lock.
    Click to expand...

    Sounds lame and complicated.

    Also, camping + vette = weird combination. I would like to see that.
     
    #47
    rjacobs said:
    This thing is not much better than a FWD car... its not a "jeep"...at all.





    I dont think you understand what is under this "jeep"... there are no lockers available...it doesnt have real solid axles... its FWD until it senses slip and then engages a clutch in the rear end or something like that... You can "engage" 4wd by forcing the rear clutches to lock.
    Click to expand...


    Oh one of the new crossovers. I was thinking older renegade.

    7078834
     
    Last edited:
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    #48
    I am very aware of what a renegade is. I used to sell them. You will likely be limited in the vette as you will be unable to do even minor dirt roads(or at least I wouldn't. And you will be surprised how capable that little renegade is. It is not a fiat 500 with 4x4. Similar dimensions but built completely different from the ground up. It's your trip, but you will likely regret the vette.
     
    #50
    DevilDocAZ said:
    Wife and I mad the same trip for our honeymoon.

    If you have a chance stop and see "newspaper rock" it's a petroglyph with some freaky carvings.
    Click to expand...

    You need to see Newspaper Rock over and over to soak it in. Right in that area, there are so many petroglyphs if you are willing to walk around a bit. If you are willing to scramble on cliffs that could kill you if you fall off, your opportunities expand exponentially. The ruins in the SW are mind blowing.

    BTW, this was the wrong place to sign the art you didn't make with bullets.


    newspaper7.jpg
     
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