Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

i have to say that i have completly happy with redding dies.and lapua brass.these are a little pricy,but all regrets end when you start loading the lapua.it speeded up my reloading process by taking all the prep work out.i used to do all kinds of prep work on my brass before i went to the lapua,now just a visual inspection and load it.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I have a question about FL resizeing and re forming the mouth of the case. does this happen when you de prime the case if not then how do you get rid of the out of round case mouth. just trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks ahead of time.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

kstraughen said:
I have a question about FL resizeing and re forming the mouth of the case. does this happen when you de prime the case if not then how do you get rid of the out of round case mouth. just trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks ahead of time.
[/quote

I was just thinking the same thing... hopefully someone there can help us.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Oh yes...just don't screw it in as much. While we are into the thread of saving time...try this. Got it from a Cast Bullet member. Face off the upper end of the Lee Collet sizer so that the very tip, mostly 1 mm of the case neck, is not sized. You'll get a smooth entry of the bullet without having to chamfer the inside of the neck. You'll have to cut and try...because when you size the brass it will go farther into the die than first indicated by visual.









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Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

the title of this thread is how to be quicker,
well i am not the best at reloading and always learning but, i cant see yet how this method is quicker,
i prep my brass once when its new size/primerpocket/flash hole/trim and debur with the rcbs tool,
then reloading is 1- reading die necksizer and takes out old primer , 2- prime /powder,. 3- seat bullet with reading die
thats it
every 3-4 full size
i dont see the need to bell the mouth, is this just a fix for a phantom problem,if the cases are cleaned in a tumbler and inside necks clean whats the prob ?
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

What slows me down is the powder charge. Just set up a Dillon RL550 and it won't throw, IMR 4064 consistently. Can't find the RCBS Powdermaster that would work with the Powderpro scale. Somebody help with this search? Trikling is so slow, may as well be using a single stage press.

Must I switch to a ball powder? 748?

Also, if you use this powder, there's an accuracy loads listed at 43.5 grs. Using Berger 168 HPBT. What do you think?

Reply to [email protected] if you would please?
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gnfiter3</div><div class="ubbcode-body">TCA I heard loaded ammo should not be tumbled, may go off??</div></div>

Seriously?!? Where did he say that?
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

To the question on spray lube, I use Hornady's and I do okay with it. I dump em into a cardboard box and roll em around while spraying them. Seem to work fine!Probably better on 223's than the 308's, but it just take a little more I think is all. I'm always impatient to get going so............
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I am new to reloading. I purchased 200 rounds of Lapua .308 brass. I figured get the best to start with would reduce the hardware being the problem. Without exception they were under the SAAMI 2.015 case length spec e.g. 2.006 to 2.012 with most in the .008 - .011 range.
Question: Should I just put aside the extreme low outliers and trim all the brass back to some consistent length that would include most of the brass, then load to correct OAL and shoot the stuff until it grows to spec????? Is there an alternative???
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

The RCBS chargemaster combo will speed the process up. I have tested this against Denver MXX 123 and it is very accurate.
After your brass is prepped and primed, you can input your required load and set it to auto, it will continue automatically dumping loads once the empty pan zeros on the scale. And being a tricke type dispenser it is friendly to all powders. You can seat you last load while the next one is dumping.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

You can trim the brass back to a even spec if you'd like (many of us use a flat 2" for the .308), but it isn't really necessary. If you'de feel better doing it, go right ahead. However, it isn't likely to make any real difference to you. The real thing to watch for is that nothing goes OVER 2.015", and even that allows some degree of safety margin. You just don't want the case mouth to be encroauching on the leading edge of the chamber. trimming back to the even 2.000" spec I mentioned will allow you to skip trimming a firing or three, and trimming isn't really a task most reloaders enjoy.

Don't sweat it, you'll do fine.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Organization is the key to speed. Having a preconceived assembly line will help. Here's what I do starting with new cases.

I do one step at a time to all of them:
Visually inspect, FL size, trim, debur primer pocket, prime, powder, and bullet. done. (With new cases that don't need to be tumbled, I use my Dillon 550B to size and prime ONLY).

On once, twice etc cases, I do the following:
FL size, trim, tumble, prime, powder, bullets, done.

I just don't see any other way to cut corners. I have found that Lapua brass has the same problems as other brands with "out of round" necks thus I size even new cases to get a consistent bullet "grip". Since I'm doing that to Lapua anyway, I settle for Winchester and seems to work just as well.

Accuracy for me lies in bullet seating and powder charge, not consistent volume between cases. I measure OGive
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe it's just me, but I don't see how adding an extra step to bell the mouth of a case and then yet another step to crimp the mouth shut is going to speed up anyone's reloading process. </div></div>

+1, just get a Giraud and you'll skip that belling step all together
wink.gif
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Ok I am opening myself up for lots of help. Just purchased my first 308 here on the hide from Thunderbolt. 18" Shillen Barrel with 1/12 twist. Stiller Predator action. I have been reloading .223, .45 and .40 with my Dillon 650. Can I get good loads from my Dillon? Should I buy 308 Dillon dies or another brand? Should I buy a single stage press? I want the best groups possible. Where should I start?
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Just a word of caution. Be careful with max loads or near max loads with the ball powder. Ball powder tends to be temperature sensitive. A max or near max load at the range giving great results in the cold weather could lock or damage your favorite firearm in the summer. read here and other reloading sites about using ball powder! Don't want to scare you awy from the ball powder it does flow much more uniform than the stick powder.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nate Haler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just one caveat regarding the Lee Collet Neck Sizer. You need to keep the collet -- where it contacts the die body interior -- lubed with a bit of grease. And you need to check this every couple of hundred rounds or so. Otherwise, the collet can bind inside the body and crush your case, and/or get scratched.

I like this die a lot, even with that bit of maintenance required. It's WAY quicker than using case lube with other dies, for dang sure. </div></div>

FYI....I ended up using a Dri-Film lube, kept ammo from getting any grease on the necks. I used the Lee Collet Neck Sizer to straighten up the necks on some surplus Portuguese .308 berdan primed cases, the bullets had been pulled, powder dumped, etc. Wish I had more of them....it was kinda nice to not have to worry about the spent brass.

Sorry, not trying to side track the thread.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I've used my Lyman M1 30 Cal die for over 30 years on both cast bullets and jacketed flat base bullets. I just bell the case mouth enough to let the projo sit in the case. I've used it on 30-30 30-06, 308, 30-40 without incident and on additional spacer were needed. I would send the die back to Lyman.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: varget</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To the question on spray lube, I use Hornady's and I do okay with it. I dump em into a cardboard box and roll em around while spraying them. Seem to work fine!Probably better on 223's than the 308's, but it just take a little more I think is all. I'm always impatient to get going so............ </div></div>

I use the midway spray lube and roll the cases on an RCBS lube mat. I use a dry MICA lube inside the case necks.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

ive never had any luck on the 550 with extruded powder. I use h414 with a 175 smk on the 550. I bought a chargemaster and im very pleased with it.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kstraughen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a question about FL resizeing and re forming the mouth of the case. does this happen when you de prime the case if not then how do you get rid of the out of round case mouth. just trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks ahead of time.
</div></div>
Short answer, yes.

AFAIK, all full length sizing dies have an expander ball on the decapping rod just above the decapping pin (on some decapping rods -- maybe all -- the ball is removable/replaceable}. The mouth of the fireformed case was expanded to match your rifle's throat and is too large to seat a bullet in. When you push the fired case into the FLS die for decapping (depriming), it first inserts the decapping rod with expander ball on it through the case mouth. Then the die squeezes the neck down to a diameter smaller than the expander ball. Somewhere between those two actions, depending on how you have your decapping rod adjusted, the decapping pin will push out the spent primer.

When you withdraw the case from the die, you pull the expander ball out through the undersized case mouth. The ball pushes the mouth back open, uniforming it and expanding it to the same diameter as the ball, which also is the proper size for seating a bullet. This also explains why you should lube inside your case mouths before FLS.

The Lee collet neck sizing die, OTOH, uses a mandrel in the place of the decapping rod (although it still does the decapping). When you push the brass into the die, the collets pinch the brass against the mandrel, which simultaneously uniforms the case mouth and makes it the correct diameter. Since it doesn't undersize the neck and then expand it to the correct diameter -- like a FLS die -- it works the brass less, which is good for case life. It also uniforms the OD of the case neck and reduces runout, as well as eliminating the need for lubing the case mouth. Some demanding shooters find they still need to turn the case neck to get a uniform OD with minimal runout but most folks I know are satisfied with what the Lee die turns out.

The drawback to neck sizing is that it doesn't control case body length so you'll need to FLS or bump the shoulder back in a body die (which leaves the neck alone) when the body stretches enough that the bolt gets hard to close. I think some folks have a method for shoulder bumping with a FL die but I haven't tried it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigdog2084</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the spray case lube work? </div></div>
Dillon's spray case lube isn't an aerosol, it's lanolin dissolved in alcohol in a pump spray bottle. I make my own by putting about 1/4 oz of 100% lanolin hand cream I get at the drugstore into 12 ozs of 91% rubbing alcohol. Use 3/4 oz of lanolin if you're lubing case mouths. It's cheap and I find it works better than any aerosol I've tried, and any other lube period except for Imperial die wax.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fred_C_Dobbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigdog2084</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the spray case lube work? </div></div>
Dillon's spray case lube isn't an aerosol, it's lanolin dissolved in alcohol in a pump spray bottle. I make my own by putting about 1/4 oz of 100% lanolin hand cream I get at the drugstore into 12 ozs of 91% rubbing alcohol. Use 3/4 oz of lanolin if you're lubing case mouths. It's cheap and I find it works better than any aerosol I've tried, and any other lube period except for Imperial die wax. </div></div>

I do basically the same thing, except I use Lee's sizing lube as my lanolin source. I use a tube of Lee lube (2oz) with 16oz of 91% alcohol.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

My process to load any center-fire round. Just replace 300 win mag with .308 or any other caliber.

Reloading the 300 Win Mag

Equipment: Redding Big Boss II, Redding Competitions 3 die set

I first select 50 pieces of brass for a box. These 50 pieces will remain together until they are retired to the trash. I process my shot brass by the box so I can keep a count of how many times they have been reloaded.

Brass Prep:

Step 1: I use a Redding universal decamping die to remove the primers.

Step 2: I inspect the cases for any cracks or deformation.

Step 3: Every even number of reloads, I check the size of the cases. I perform a full length resize if needed. Since the 300 win mag is a belted magnum is will used the Belted Magnum die from Innovative Technologies when a bulge is detected just above the belt.

Step 4: Check the case length and trim if necessary.

Step 5: Chamfer in the inside and outside of the case mouth.

Step 6: Clean the primer pocket with a RCBS primer pocket tool.

Step 7: Clean the inside neck of the case with a wire brush.

Step 8: Neck size each case with the Redding bushing neck dies. I reduce the neck size by .002 inches compared to a loaded case.

Step 9: Tumble the base

Step 10: After separating the brass from the tumble media, I use compressed air to blow through each case’s primer pocket. This clears any leftover media and dust.

Step 11: Hand prime each case.

Step 12: Hand charge each case. I use a Redding 3BR powder measure to drop close to the desired charge weight. I place the dropped charge on a RCBS electronic scale and use a trickler to bring the charge up to the desired weight. Using a powder funnel I pour the charge into the primed case.

Step 13: Seat the bullet using the Redding Competition Seating die. I seat the bullet .005 inches off of the lands.

Step 14: Spot check the bullet run-out with the Hornady Concentricity tool. My rounds usually have equal to or less than .0015 run out using Sierra MK bullets.

Step 15: Box the rounds and add one to the times the cases have been reloaded.

Step 16: Have a good day at the gun range!
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I case prep at one time ,then drop powder later.
I also use hornaday's spray lube in a flat plastic tub spray light.
I'll use varget ,rather then a longer stick powders in my dillon thrower. But if for long range, i'll trickel charge.
I'll tumble after i've seated the bullets, no problem.
I'll check the flash holes befor primming.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Redding S type dies. Full length Die with interchangeable neck bushings. Use the black button to replace the expander die. Cases last a lot longer this way.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

You want speed? Forget your Full Length Die. Get a Lee Neck Sizing Collet Die and never look back. If all you are looking to do is reduce the time you spend loading, it will do that. You can eliminate lubing your brass, cleaning the lube back off the brass, you don't have to tumble before loading if you don't want, the necks aren't worked and don't "grow" hardly at all, so no trimming. I just trim to length after the first firing and then they go a long time before ever needing trimming. Best of all, the brass is now sized for your chamber, shot to shot consistancy has a better chance to improve. Also get away from the extruded powders. Try Accurate 2520. It has got to be the smoothest, most consistant powder out there for flowing thru a powder dispenser. Get it dialed in and forget about it; it will throw the same charge everytime. H414, H335 and A2230 are also really good. With A2250 I load an entire 100rd loading block without ever questioning the charges. Check a few random ones and you'll see it. I load like this when I just need a bunch of ammo loaded quick and I need to get back out shooting the same weekend. When I have time, I still clean, size, clean, brush pockets, electric dispense powder, wipe down etc. In the end though the quick loaded ammo doesn't give up much to the slow load.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I really like the bushing dies, either rcbs or redding. Controlling the neck tension on the bullet is critical for repeatable performance. Depends on what you want as an end result. And never ever tumble loaded rounds!!
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Almost all my 308 goes thru several autoloaders and I FL resize and light crimp. Keeps the bullet in place and feeds reliably. I check the case length and neck thickness every use, then trim to spec. Haven't seen any signs of over pressure or loss in accuracy.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I use a VLD (very low drag) reamer to clean out the sharp corner and the bullets go in smooth as silk. I have been a reloader for 26 years and never have I had the need to use a cast bullet tool to do the job right. You have to deburr after trimming anyways,so why not chamfer the case like you are supposed to? I use all my chamfer tools mounted in adaptors,powered by a battery operated drill. It works great.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

having alot of trouble with my pof 308 after it spits out the shell case there are two match head sized dimples at the shoulder of the casing. Is there any way to rid them of these dents or am i stuck buying new brass every time. thank you in advance. (PS new gun about 30 rounds through it all empties are the same in the way of damage.)
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

1st step on all brass I use a lee universal depriming die then primer pocket & flash hole uniform if its never been done, then clean in tumbler w ss media,then size,then trim if needed & then clean again to remove lube,then inside outside champfer, seems like a lot of steps but, I feel all are needed, also sequence is important, a deprimed case makes for cleaner primer pockets & allows media & soap to move through case better & easier sizing
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

Looking on midway website to order reloading equipment for first time. Best reviews are for RCBS dies from selection given for 308. Quick question for you veterans out there. I am shooting an AR platform in 308 and the site stated that a short base die set was needed for the autoloader because a crimp is needed to hold bullet in place as opposed to the standard die set for bolt guns. Does anyone have any input or experience they can share for a beginner? Thank you guys in advance.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Stoffels</div><div class="ubbcode-body">why crimp it at all are you using it in an auto loader?
</div></div>

consistent neck tension is 1 reason..


but still not 100% needed
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigdog2084</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the spray case lube work? </div></div>
thats all i use now... "RCBS spray"... use a old tupper wear container and throw a few hand fulls of brass in.. spray 2 pumps.. shakes brass.. spray 2 more.. all done..
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Stoffels</div><div class="ubbcode-body">why crimp it at all are you using it in an auto loader?
</div></div>

consistent neck tension is 1 reason..


but still not 100% needed </div></div>

I'm not convinced that crimping necessarily helps uniform neck tension. You'd be much better either A. Using Lapua brass or B. Turn your necks to uniform thickness.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I used to spend a lot of time reloading my ammo buy wieghing all brass and paying close atten to detials and it shot well . however the last yr or so i started just necksizing my norma brass putting a primmer in and i still weight each power load and then i seat a bullet to were i want them ..And then i go shooting i have found for most tactical type shoots that i do this works just fine i just think its more about the shooter than the ammo ..this being said if u are looking for benchrest style groups fine but running a gunning time at the range pays better than time on the reloading bench
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

if your reloading for certain auto loaders(ar 10's,fal variants) ........dont you have to crimp to prevent the bullets from moving when they hit the feed ramps and chamber?
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I have been reloading w/550 for 20yr ,223,308,45acp,9mm.Once I get the powder chg. set it is consistant.Maybe you are using the wrong powder bar.Dillon has excellent customer service& will help you.A Dillon won't load as accurate as measuring every chg.,but the time saved more than makes up for a 1/10gr difference here & there.
 
Re: Speed up your .308 Reloading Process

I normally reload all my calibers with Redding Big Boss II, Redding comp dies, and RCBS Charge master.

I would however want to seriously speed up my 308 reloading process. My AR-10 simply loves to eat ammo....

Therefore I am looking into by a Hornady Lock and Load 110 AP or equivalent progressive press. My AR-10 has been built to use mainly slow powder such as N150. It does however work with all possible loads that I have bought as ammo or reloaded.

I would like to keep the N150 powder. I do understand that ball powder such as BL-C 2 is easier to feed than Vihtavuori N150. However here in Finland, Hodgon powders cost double the price of Vihtavuori so I would want to keep the N150 powder that seems to work consistently extremely well in my AR-10.

Does anybody have experience of using N150 in Hornady L-L 110 AP or in Dillon, RCBS progressive presses??