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Steiner T6xi
- Thread starter M77
- Start date
Get the 3-18
The FOV alone is amazing
I’ve taken mine to steel to 1000+ and it did just fine
Do you mean the FOV at 3x compared to 5x? Because it seems the FOV at the same magnification, say 10x, is the same for both scopes. So then my question is what situations do you find the 3x more helpful than the 5x?
No the FOV at higher mags
I usually set the magnification to 12/14x and leave it there and have never wanted more for shooting steel, and pending mirage it may even get dialed down to 10/12x
I guess what I’m getting at is the FOV at 12 or 14x is the same FOV with the 5-30x scope.
So with my 5-30 on 12x I can see about 17.5 mils down so about a 35 mil FOV at 12x. Just wondering if someone could check and see how many mils are visible on 12x with the 3-18. Thanks.
Hey guys, I have a 20" 5.56 flat top I bought from a friend. I want to put an optic on it, and I was thinking about a Steiner 2.5-15 or 3-18. I like my good olde P4x, and I prefer the Euro style diopter adjustment over the Nightforce.
The rifle would just be used for range shooting 300 yards in (if I am lucky out to 600). I have terrible eye sight, so I would want at least 15-18x magnification regardless for punching paper.
I was also considering a Leupold Mark 5. I want something with > 10x magnification though.
Thanks
The rifle would just be used for range shooting 300 yards in (if I am lucky out to 600). I have terrible eye sight, so I would want at least 15-18x magnification regardless for punching paper.
I was also considering a Leupold Mark 5. I want something with > 10x magnification though.
Thanks
on my steiner t6xi 5-30x56
at 12x=17.2x2=approx. 34.4 mils
at 18x=11.6x2=23.2 mils
can someone please verify on the steiner t6xi 3-18x56, I thought about buying the 3-18 but would to know the sizing of the reticle at 18x on the t6xi 3-18x56 vs t6xi 5-30x56 or are they identical?
Thanks CM
at 12x=17.2x2=approx. 34.4 mils
at 18x=11.6x2=23.2 mils
can someone please verify on the steiner t6xi 3-18x56, I thought about buying the 3-18 but would to know the sizing of the reticle at 18x on the t6xi 3-18x56 vs t6xi 5-30x56 or are they identical?
Thanks CM
12X it's very hard to tell because I ran out of horizontal #'s on each end but looks to be right around 36 mils.
18X is 23.6-23.8 mils.
Anyone every used steiner's warranty? Scope is just sitting around and I'd like them to really touch up the turrets if possible.
I did, a few years ago, almost a year after the original T5 bungled rollout. One I got from the pre-sale worked great except for at 200y and in it did not provide a clear picture.
I waited until all the hoopla died down and filed a warranty request on their site. They paid for shipping and replaced the scope with a corrected one that I’ve been using since.
It’s now today, so I can’t say your experience will be the same, but it is certainly worth the try.
Sounds reasonable, I'm going to reach out to them.
I have not used the warranty, but I already related my story right here in this thread of how I stupidly messed up my own scope. When I called, there was no hesitation. "Send it in." They sent it back all fixed.
This was totally my fault, not Steiner's
I don't feel quite so stupid since one other person admitted to doing the same thing after my post. They fixed his, too.
Two companies in the gun world so far have done this sort of thing for me. Steiner and Trigger Tech. The trigger was broken by one of Hornady's bad primer 6 GT rounds - I was in a school when it went down. The instructor, Robert Brantley, called Trigger Tech. We clearly explained that we thought it was the broken primers, not really Trigger Tech's fault. We were more calling to see if they had run into this before. They shipped the instructor a new trigger, and we installed one of his extras in my gun. Then he loaned me his 6 GT rifle to finish the course, along with his awesome hand loaded 110grain A-tip ammunition, which I paid for, but had a hard time getting him to accept enough to make it remotely a fair trade for him. If you ever have a chance to take a precision rifle course with Robert Brantley, do it. He is a great instructor and improved my shooting. P.S. Hornady's current crop of 6 GT primers need a firing pin smaller than .060, just FYI.
Hornady of course says that whatever cheap, paper thin primers they are using are just fine as is. If you have a larger firing pin, use 205M or CCI 450, as those are confirmed to work with a .068.
So, yeah
Steiner - thumbs up
Trigger Tech - thumbs up
Hornady - eh . . . at least they produce 6 GT, I guess. No other large manufacturer is doing it.
Robert Brantley - two thumbs up.
This was totally my fault, not Steiner's
I don't feel quite so stupid since one other person admitted to doing the same thing after my post. They fixed his, too.
Two companies in the gun world so far have done this sort of thing for me. Steiner and Trigger Tech. The trigger was broken by one of Hornady's bad primer 6 GT rounds - I was in a school when it went down. The instructor, Robert Brantley, called Trigger Tech. We clearly explained that we thought it was the broken primers, not really Trigger Tech's fault. We were more calling to see if they had run into this before. They shipped the instructor a new trigger, and we installed one of his extras in my gun. Then he loaned me his 6 GT rifle to finish the course, along with his awesome hand loaded 110grain A-tip ammunition, which I paid for, but had a hard time getting him to accept enough to make it remotely a fair trade for him. If you ever have a chance to take a precision rifle course with Robert Brantley, do it. He is a great instructor and improved my shooting. P.S. Hornady's current crop of 6 GT primers need a firing pin smaller than .060, just FYI.
Hornady of course says that whatever cheap, paper thin primers they are using are just fine as is. If you have a larger firing pin, use 205M or CCI 450, as those are confirmed to work with a .068.
So, yeah
Steiner - thumbs up
Trigger Tech - thumbs up
Hornady - eh . . . at least they produce 6 GT, I guess. No other large manufacturer is doing it.
Robert Brantley - two thumbs up.
I have 3 times with my 3-18x56.
1st attempt-Missing torx screw on elevation turret (brand new unit). (submitted case and after 7 business days I called myself).
-They sent me the torx screw. No torque info. Contacted them again and finally got a torque value.
2nd attempt-Torx screw broke after I torqued it using their specification.
-Sent the whole optic in.
-Repair time was over a month.
3rd attempt-Could not get 35 mils of elevation. Could only get approx 23-24 mils of elevation.
-Sent it in and they said it was fine.
-Still cant get 35 mils. Re-mounted it back on my rifle this past winter and haven't touched it since.
-Repair time was over a month too.
-All I wanted is to verify 35 mils of total elevation before zeroing this damn thing.
Read the manual multiple times and I swear I'm retarded. If any of you guys know how to verify total elevation please let me know.
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Please don't take this as a smart aleck response, because it is going to sound like it. Each click is 0.1 milliradians. So to confirm 35 mils, you should be able to start at the bottom of the elevation range and run it to the top with 350 clicks (0.1 x 350 = 35).
I am sure you probably already did that, but, I mean, that is the only way I know of to get the confirmation you are seeking.
I am sure you probably already did that, but, I mean, that is the only way I know of to get the confirmation you are seeking.
Not sure what to do with the zero stop. I'd need to fiddle around and figure that out. Make sure you are starting at the bottom of the range.
I'm asking for advice so I'll take it. However, yes, 1st thing I do for every optic I get is verify that total elevation and windage meets their specifications. With the turret lock off, I can get 11 mils of windage (5.5 left and 5.5 right). Advertised is 15 mils. Repeat for turret and cannot get 35 mils or even close. Stumped so she's in the back of the safe collecting dust.
LOL, I have never done that! Now I am curious. I just look through it, set it up optically, go zero the rifle and start shooting out at longer ranges . . . I guess any scope manufacturer could rip me off with the specs that I have never confirmed.
Long story, long, I bought it for 22lr long distance shooting so I wanted to take advantage of every mil available. With a 20 moa rail and a 50yd zero I had about 23 mils available to dial. So that means I have 12 mils wasted because specs are claiming 35 mils total. I upgraded the 20 moa rail to a 50 moa rail to gain back approx 8.7 mils out of that 12. I could not zero it at all so I sent it in. Once I got it back I threw it on my 6 ARC and with a 100yd zero I have 23.6 mils available to dial. I gave up chasing the 35 mils because 23.6 mils is more than enough for my 6 ARC (but deep inside it still bothers me).
If you check out the t6xi 3-18 thread, someone had this problem. I honestly don't remember if it got resolved there but it got pretty in depth with atleast one whole page about the problem. Would be a good place to look if you haven't already.
20 moa is on 6 ARC, 20 moa pic rail on 22lr when it was on the 22. Coincidently the available mils left to dial was very similar.
yes, it was either on that thread or in this thread. Very similar problems with trying to figure out how their zero stop works and manual sucks. Should be easy peasy but I guess it's easy to go full retard. Zero stop isn't the issue here I think. It was trying to find the full advertised 35 mils of elevation. I originally had 2 TX6i's but now down to 1.
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ANYBODY ELSE OWN THE 3-18, and, if so, are you getting the full 350 clicks from bottom to top in elevation?
Idk, but I have 22.8 mil above my 100y zero, atop a 20moa rail. Has to be close.
This request made me curious about my TX6i 3-18x. So this morning while on a work conference call I pulled mine out of the safe to see what the range was. From my zero, I could adjust up exactly 23 MRAD. I then adjusted my zero stop to allow 13 MRAD down. I was then able to go another 12.4 MRAD. So the total adjustment range for mine is 35.4 MRAD.
Sounds very close to mine, zeros being likely 0.2 mil apart, which is totally within normal variables.
It sounds an awful lot like Azn (corrected per below) has a zero stop issue. Anyone want to describe for him exactly how to adjust that to satisfy his OCD?
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Don't recall Malum having an issue? OCD is definitely me for sure.
Can you tell me step by step how you checked your total elevation? Emailed Steiner on their procedure twice and nothing back. I tried and I spun it the wrong way where there was less than 3 mils above zero. (I had to spin the inner turret to get it back and scratched the white lock/unlock symbols to hell). Pretend I'm 10years old and cognitively slow. ;-)
Yeah, not me. I was just goading others into checking their scopes and peppering AznTactical with annoying questions.
They just collectively thought to themselves, “Sigh…there goes Rusty Bob, our fearless “pantless safecracker,” once more forgetting to mute/turn off video, walking off camera, and doing his special thing again.”
I’m at PT, if the description below doesn’t do it I’ll make another attempt later with pictures.
First make certain your rifle is unloaded. To adjust below the zero stop you have to move it to the bottom of the range. Make certain the elevation turret is locked. Next locate the 2 screws that secure the turret to the mechanism. If the turret is rotated to zero being aligned with the orientation reference mark, the 2 screws will be on the front of the turret in the scalloped area below the locking mechanism. The screw holes are approximately 30 degrees apart. Recomfirm the turret adjustment is locked. Loosen the 2 screws. You need a 2mm allen wrench. The turret should now spin freely. Rotate the turret in the “up” direction. In my case, I rotated up 13MRAD because I had already established I had 23MRAD of adjustment up from my rifle’s zero. So I was expecting around 12MRAD more when I went down so I turned the turret up 13MRAD to have a little extra room to make certain I found the mechanical limit. Now secure the 2 little screw to secure the turret. Be very careful about over tightening. Once the turret is secured, unlock it and rotate it down to see how much travel you have below the zero stop. Don’t crank on it really hard. You should recognize when you feel resistance. This is the bottom of the travel. Once you’ve found the bottom note how much it turned & add it to how much “up” you had earlier or if you really want to count the clicks go for it!! Just don’t forget to turn it back to the bottom & them rotate back to whatever your zero was, in my case up 13 MRAD. Then rezero your turret.
I wish the Steiner owner's manual read like that - I would not have screwed up setting my zero stop and had to send my scope back to Steiner to be fixed . . .
I tried and wanted to LOVE the NX8 2.5-20. It checked all the boxes for me. However, I think I had a dud out of the box. I couldn't get it to focus at distance. I thought it was me so I put my Kahles k318i next to it and did a direct comparison.
Ranged a few tress at different distances. Placed the diopter magnification to high on both to focus the reticle. Placed the mag on low and the parallax to it's lowest setting. Started with the NX8. Scoped the first tree that was 197yds. Kept turning the parallax till I reached infinity. It gradually got better as I dialed but still not sharp. Next up Kahles. Turned the parallax and while turning it cleared up to a crystal clear image. I looked at the parallax and like magic it was at 200. Scoped the next tree at 467 yds. NX8 never cleared up and the Kahles cleared up just before 500 on the parallax. Did the same test with my Vortex Razor HD Gen 2 4.5-27. Parallax was also spot on.
I will say I most likely had a dud but another thing I did not like about the NX8 was the push button illumination. Steiner offers a dial illumination. I went with the T6XI in 3-18x56 with the SCR2 reticle first before eventually settling with the T6XI 2.5-15x50 with the SCR reticle. I thought the Xmas tree on the SCR2 was a bit to busy for hunting. I generally NEVER take a shot passed 300 yds. The SCR reticle has no Xmas tree. Just hold over and windage. Also noticed very little difference in magnification on the top end between the 3-18 and the 2.5-15. Now if it came in red it would be my favorite scope at the $1500 price. Still getting used to the Green. Not bad by any means just used to Red.
As far as the glass goes it is crystal clear. No CA, edge to edge clarity is outstanding. My only gripe is the mirage at max magnification but all my scopes do that even the Kahles. I guess you have to go with ultra alpha glass "ZCO" to alleviate that but I do not have ultra alpha scope $$$
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Eurooptic has the best prices on everything glass related. Call and speak to ANY rep and ask them, "What is the best price you can do" I do it all the time. ✌
You got a DUD. Mine has ZERO CA and I too hate CA. Send it to Steiner as I am sure your return window has already passed. Test out their Heritage Warranty. ✌
You are correct. Scope should have been sent back to the seller for a new one if you bought it new.
I understand the difference in reticles, but could you elaborate a little more on why you decided on the 2.5-15 over the 3-18? I find it interesting that you used both, so you are in a unique position to describe the factors that influenced you for one over the other. Thank you.
I know you did not ask me, but thought I'd add: both are nice scopes, but 2.5-15x50 seems a bit better optimized.
With every product line, there are some models that just come together a little better than others. The 2.5-15x50 is an example of that. Given that there are really no duds in the T6Xi line, that's noteworthy.
ILya
I couldn't agree more. The original reason I went with the 2.5-15 is on Eurooptics website it shows the SCR reticle was in red. I wanted a red reticle as the SCR2 reticle I received was in green. To my dismay, when I received the 2.5-15 with the SCR reticle it also was green. I gave EO this information and they still show a red reticle on their website. The 2.5-15 is an inch shorter, 4 oz lighter, 8 ft better at low magnification for field of view and the kicker is I did not notice a difference at all between 18x and 15x so I went with the latter as this scope is mounted on my hunting rifle.
