Correct.So you have only 11.7 mils of adjustment, total?
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Correct.So you have only 11.7 mils of adjustment, total?
Does anyone else's 5-30x56 have an elevation turret that can't dial past 1 full rotation? I have mine set up on a 20 MOA mount. I zeroed and set the zerostop. But when I dial up, it stops at 11.2 mils dialing up. I thought maybe I had to dial it back another rotation after loosening the set screws but it stops at about 0.5 mil below zero with the screws loosened. Its supposed to have 26 mil of elevation according to the manual. Am I doing something wrong?
Yes. I zeroed the rifle at 100 yards then set the zero stop. The windage is centered at zero. I can loosen the screws, turn the turret up say 6 mils, tighten the screws and return to zero. But it does the same thing and stops at 11.2 mils.So you followed the directions on page 6 regarding additional downward elevation? That is what is sounds like you are describing.
Have you zeroed this on an actual rifle shooting at 100 yards yet?
You have the correct 20 MOA mount (close enough to Steiner's recommendation of 25 MOA). I am not sure what else is happening, but, yes, zeroed at 100 yards, there should be more than 11.2 mils available counterclockwise (which moves the POI up on the target).
I had it on a .22 and shot that out to 400 with holdovers. Tried out 90gr Bergers in 6 arc last week and the 11 mils got me out to 700 if I recall correctly. Held over in the reticle to get out to 1000. Yea I emailed them a few days ago and just got a reply. I’ll ask about the resistance.Glad you got it.
What round are you shooting, and out to what distances?
About the "noticeably more resistance - I might call Steiner about that.
Anybody else have a point where they get noticeably more resistance?
Are you talking about the T5xi? I have never looked through one, but there are plenty of posts talking about it earlier in this thread. See, e.g., posts # 125 and 877-878 in this thread. Also, use the search box up at the top right of the screen.Ok , I know opinions are common. But given the option between a used Steiner t6xi and a Steiner mil is there benefit in going with the older military scope? 3-18 vs 3-15, but the top end mag difference doesn’t really bother me.
No sorry the M5XiAre you talking about the T5xi? I have never looked through one, but there are plenty of posts talking about it earlier in this thread. See, e.g., posts # 125 and 877-878 in this thread. Also, use the search box up at the top right of the screen.
Personally I would but the t6 unless you can get a m5 for under 1500-1700 ish. Optically the t6 is a touch more versatile and has less scope body. Comes stock with tennebrax covers etc.No sorry the M5Xi
Because if you qualify for certain discounts you can get these things for a steal and people are buying them just to resell for a profit. At least that’s my impression.Why are so many of these scopes popping up in the Px?
Why are so many of these scopes popping up in the Px?
Just got it in the mail today. Overall I think these are really solid little scopes.
I’ve owned 6 steiners, only had issue with one m7xi. I loved everyone of them and I beat the shit out of them. They do have a few bad ones leak out here and there as do any of the brands.Because of people like the guy below. People get them, are excited about the newness and it passes the table top inspection but then when they actually go use them (actually shoot them to determine if they’re “solid little scopes” or not) they find out how craptastic they actually are a dump them.
I’ve owned multiple Steiners, mostly the military models and every single one of them had issues.
Come try my Steiner out. For the price I paid it has done very well on my AI. You might like it. I surely like it better then the G2 Razor I sold for it.Because of people like the guy below. People get them, are excited about the newness and it passes the table top inspection but then when they actually go use them (actually shoot them to determine if they’re “solid little scopes” or not) they find out how craptastic they actually are a dump them.
I’ve owned multiple Steiners, mostly the military models and every single one of them had issues.
Just curious whether you have owned or shot while looking through the T6xi model that this thread is about? If so, what were your issues?Because of people like the guy below. People get them, are excited about the newness and it passes the table top inspection but then when they actually go use them (actually shoot them to determine if they’re “solid little scopes” or not) they find out how craptastic they actually are a dump them.
I’ve owned multiple Steiners, mostly the military models and every single one of them had issues.
I haven't ever shot an older Steiner, and this thread is what convinced me to get the T6xi. I haven't regretted that purchase yet.Yeah old reputations die hard . People who get burned have long memories. That's nature. With the T6Xi I think Steiner has fixed all the past issues though.
I have mine in a Spuhr. It's solid, and I can take it off and put it back on with no POI shift. Another super solid and well machined mount that's a lot cheaper and still has all the mounting holes for accessories (levels, pic boards, etc) is the Griffin Armament mount. Got no complaints with either of those.My 5-30x is on the way ($2k shipped).
Any recs for mounting hardware for Tikka CTR w/ factory MOA rail?
EDIT: I might see about changing to 3-18x, if that makes any difference.
My 5-30x is on the way ($2k shipped).
Any recs for mounting hardware for Tikka CTR w/ factory MOA rail?
EDIT: I might see about changing to 3-18x, if that makes any difference.
The 3-18 is tits. If you can switch, I would.My 5-30x is on the way ($2k shipped).
Any recs for mounting hardware for Tikka CTR w/ factory MOA rail?
EDIT: I might see about changing to 3-18x, if that makes any difference.
First stay with the 30x.
You want rings or a mount?
The 3-18 is tits. If you can switch, I would.
Get a ARC MBrace mount
I’ve taken mine to 1200 and still only running 12x or so due to the mirage factor and still made hitsLooking through this thread was helpful. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/so-what-does-a-1000-yd-shot-look-like.81086/
18x would be enough for me, the 1’ circle and military silhouette at 18x and below are enough. I think 1200 is where size would factor in for me, right at the 1.5/100. T6 in a 20 or 25 would be better.
Looking through this thread was helpful. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/so-what-does-a-1000-yd-shot-look-like.81086/
18x would be enough for me, the 1’ circle and military silhouette at 18x and below are enough. I think 1200 is where size would factor in for me, right at the 1.5/100. T6 in a 20 or 25 would be better.
My 5-30x is on the way ($2k shipped).
Any recs for mounting hardware for Tikka CTR w/ factory MOA rail?
EDIT: I might see about changing to 3-18x, if that makes any difference.
Spuhr here, too.I have mine in a Spuhr. It's solid, and I can take it off and put it back on with no POI shift. Another super solid and well machined mount that's a lot cheaper and still has all the mounting holes for accessories (levels, pic boards, etc) is the Griffin Armament mount. Got no complaints with either of those.
Has there been a good side by side of the t6 3-18 vs a NF 2.5-20?
How’s the glass quality, eye box, turret feel, and parallax. Basically, is the nx8 worth replacing with the tx6? I like my nx8 but I don’t love it. The glass is great but everything else is finicky imo.I have both, what do you what to know? I also have an XTR3i 3.3-28 and NX8 4-32 in my quest for the best crossover scope.
How’s the glass quality, eye box, turret feel, and parallax. Basically, is the nx8 worth replacing with the tx6? I like my nx8 but I don’t love it. The glass is great but everything else is finicky imo.
How does image quality and resolution compare between the two?The t6xi is an all around good scope, the turrets are a little goofy but I’m honestly not a scope snob so glass and turret feel don’t bother be as long as everything’s functional. The t6 is a good bit bigger and heavier then the nx8 so I guess it depends what you’re putting it on. The 56mm objective is nice for light gathering. I love the 2.5-20 NX8 tho so I’ll probably replace the Steiner and burris with them eventually.
How does image quality and resolution compare between the two?
I never had the two side by side, but from experience with them both I would say the T6Xi is much more forgiving than the NX8. The recent NX8 has proven to be noticeably better than early release models optically and has evolved into quite a good option but is still a bit finicky. The T6Xi has a very forgiving eyebox, the scope is just easy to get behind.How’s the glass quality, eye box, turret feel, and parallax. Basically, is the nx8 worth replacing with the tx6? I like my nx8 but I don’t love it. The glass is great but everything else is finicky imo.
You will have 0 issues getting a proper zero with a 0 moa mount. 26 mils of total elevation you're good up to 30 moa for sure. Anything over 30 moa total you may have issues depending on tolerance stack ups.Can someone help me understand the following and how to handle when sighting and zero the first time? From the T6xi manual.
The T6Xi series is shipped from the factory with the optical center (knob at ‘0’ position) set below center.Without tapered bases the initial sight-in or bore sighting will likely produce an initial point of impact considerably high.
Also, looking at the 147 ELD-M chart shows 36.7' drop at 1300 yards for 12.2 mil adjustment. With the 30x model having 26 mil elevation, is my math correct in that this shouldn't be an issue with 0MOA scope mount?
Thanks. Makes sense. One thing I was curious about was the elevation turret not locking on zero, but a little past it. Was yours the same?I have the 5-30x mounted on my 6ARC gas gun with 0 MOA mount. I zeroed at 100 yards. I just checked and there are 15.6 mils of up elevation left.
When you go to zero and it's shooting really high, you'll have to loosen the 2 set screws on the turret and turn it counterclockwise a bit more than enough to lower the point of impact and then tighten the screws and then get the point of impact where you want. After that just loosen the screws again to set the dial to zero. Make sure the turret is locked when you loosen the screws though.
Isn’t this backwards? If the scope is set 20 MOA below optical center, and you’re using a 0 MOA base, don’t you need to come up to get zeroed, not go down?Can someone help me understand the following and how to handle when sighting and zero the first time? From the T6xi manual.
The T6Xi series is shipped from the factory with the optical center (knob at ‘0’ position) set below center.Without tapered bases the initial sight-in or bore sighting will likely produce an initial point of impact considerably high.
Also, looking at the 147 ELD-M chart shows 36.7' drop at 1300 yards for 12.2 mil adjustment. With the 30x model having 26 mil elevation, is my math correct in that this shouldn't be an issue with 0MOA scope mount?
It's like the Gen3 Vortex. They give you a few tenths past zero.Thanks. Makes sense. One thing I was curious about was the elevation turret not locking on zero, but a little past it. Was yours the same?
Isn’t this backwards? If the scope is set 20 MOA below optical center, and you’re using a 0 MOA base, don’t you need to come up to get zeroed, not go down?
The XTRIII has the same disclaimer in the manual, and when I sighted mine in with a 0MOA mount, I had to come up 6 mils to get zeroed.
Probably that there is less mrads left in the down direction (going clockwise on most USA scopes) then there is left going up (CCW).I was also wondering what that portion meant. What does optical center set below center mean in terms of turret settings? But wouldn't you need to move up to bring the impact down?
Probably that there is less mrads left in the down direction (going clockwise on most USA scopes) then there is left going up (CCW).
Don’t get wrapped around the axle. I’ve been there. Just figure it out by doing.
Whew. I think I got that right. Someone double check.
- Take scope out of box
- Go to the zero number if it isn’t there already. At zero, turn all of the way CW (or CCW, doesn’t matter) until it stops. Don’t force it. Count the mrads/MOA it took; pretend 14mrad.
- Go back to zero (14mrad)
- Turn opposite way, or CCW and do what you did on step 2. Pretend this is 16mrad.
- You have 30mrd total scope travel
- If you’re anal, turn 15mrads back to optical center.
- Zero turret
- Stick scope on rifle.
- Shoot rifle at 100yds, note how much and which way you moved turret
- Let’s say you moved the turret 6mrad up from zero/optical center (up=what it says on your turret). That leaves you only 9mrads up left to dial (15-6), and 21mrads down.
- Btw 6mrads is 20moa
- If you're anal and all you do is holdovers, buy a 20moa/6mrad base to get you back to the optical center when you zero at 100yds.
- Now the scope is back to 15 up/15 down
- Or if you’re a dialer, you might overcompensate with, say, a 40moa base (12mrads) to allow more travel upwards.
- That would leave you at 27 up/3 down. In other words, you have 27mrads available to dial up (15+12).
- If you dial, this way you can optimize optical clarity for what distance you most often shoot.