Gunsmithing stock texturing

jasonZ

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 12, 2008
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independence, kansas 67301
This is my first attempt at this. I bought this B&C M40 style stock and wanted to give the whole texturing thing a try. So I taped it off and had a hard time getting things to look nice and even using 1/8th inch blue fine line tape and then taping the rest off with some green masking tape.
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Then I sanded the open areas with 120 grit sand paper. I wiped it down with acetone a couple times to make sure it was clean. Next I mixed up some Marine-Tex and spread it on with a plastic knife that was serrated. I read previous threads and saw one where a guy said he cut 1/16th inch gaps in his spreader to apply and then smoothed it out with another straight spreader. I thought that was a good idea to get a nice even coating. The plastic serrated knife worked out well and I never hit it with a smooth spreader at all. Then I used a damp sponge to texture the Marine-Tex and it spread out and covered all the areas that were not really covered with Marine-Tex.
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Now I'm just gonna let it set up some and remove the tape. I think I need to get it off before it gets completely set up, so I don't have any issues with the Marine-Tex peeling off.

So what do you think so far? I'll post finished pics, possibly tomorrow after it's all set up. I hope it turns out well or I just wasted my time, money, and sanded part of the tan/black web finish off!
 
Re: stock texturing

That doesn't look bad at all. How thick did you apply it before spreading? How coarse is the texture after working it with the damp sponge?

From the picture of the sponge, it doesn't look as if much transferred from the stock. I have heard/read about "bouncing" a tongue depressor and also using a bunched up plastic sandwich bag, but your version looks to be far less messy.

I will check back tomorrow to see what it looks like. Otherwise, good job!
 
Re: stock texturing

I don't know if I'm the guy you're refering to but I've commented in the past on notching my spreader that way...just like you would apply tile adhesive on the floor with a notched trowel for an even coat. It works well for texuring too, as you've discovered.

Looks good, be careful about pulling off the partially cured texture, if it were me I would just wait until it's done curing and carefully pull the tape off. If the surface was properly prepared the texture won't peel off.

I like to cuff off the points after it cures with 120 or so grit sand paper. Still textury enough, but easier on the hands.

I'll add too that a dry sponge works just as well, I've never used a damp one.......
 
Re: stock texturing

Why not use the heavily textured spray paint from Krylon and then paint to your desired color? The stuff is like dull 20 grit.

It was just a thought that occurred to me as I read the thread. I'm lazier than most I suppose!
 
Re: stock texturing

I think a dry sponge would have been better. I say this because it didn't really start to texture until some of the Marine-Tex started to stick to the sponge anyhow! After that it worked fabulously.

It probably was you tripwire, I just couldn't remember who, but remembered that and a serrated plastic knife worked out very well, so thanks for that tid bit in prior threads! I let it setup and pulled the tape just a little bit ago. I've got to get ready for work and I'm gonna let it go ahead and sit some more, because it was still had a slightly tacky feel to it.
 
Re: stock texturing

Very similar to what I did, I used a stir stick and just smacked the marine tex and let it pull it up with the stick. Then anything that was too rough I sanded it down, then duracoated the whole stock.
 
Re: stock texturing

So I let it all dry up. I took the tape off before it was completely cured with no ill side effects. I just need to sand it down and I'll probably retape it and paint it with some black duracoat. It looked darker when it was wet and I didn't think I was going to have to do that, but now that it's set up I'm thinking I will.
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For a first time I think it turned out quite well and it was much easier than I thought it would be. The texture turned out very well and I think once the sharp points are sanded off it will be just what I wanted. Thanks
 
Re: stock texturing

Looks great! Thanks for passing along the idea of notching the applicator stick; I've done enough tile and vinyl floor work where I should have thought of that myself, but didn't.
 
Re: stock texturing

Here are some close up pics of the texturing in response to the question of how rough or not rough it actually was before I sanded on it some to knock of the sharp points.
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I'm not 100% sure that I'm going to paint over the texture yet. The longer I look at it the more I think I might leave it alone. Just not sure yet. Any feedback on that would be appreciative as well, concerning whether one thinks it looks alright cosmetically or if it would look better if it matched the black webbing a little closer. Thanks, Jason
 
Re: stock texturing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rottenron</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great job lets see some finished pic </div></div>
Funny to see this post after he posted the "Finished Job"
 
Re: stock texturing

Lol well I assume he's speaking of the rifle assembled afterwards, but who knows. I'll have to take some, since I put the bedding job off for alittle while! Oh and if I didn't mention, I'm not painting it yet until I shoot it to see how it feels then. Thanks for the kind words there guys.
 
Re: stock texturing

It'll stick if you sand the are you want to apply to, or at least scuff it with a scotch brite pad and wipe it off with some wax/grease remover (which is what I use). It's kinda like lacquer thinner or paint thinner. Those two are usually more harsh than the wax/grease remover though. Most all of adhesion is having good surface preperation!
 
Re: stock texturing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TacticalJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It'll stick if you sand the are you want to apply to, or at least scuff it with a scotch brite pad and wipe it off with some wax/grease remover (which is what I use). It's kinda like lacquer thinner or paint thinner. Those two are usually more harsh than the wax/grease remover though. Most all of adhesion is having good surface preperation! </div></div>

Thanks for the pointers!
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