Strategies for a stuck barrel nut...

Nooch13

In Hoc Signo Vinces
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 16, 2017
584
131
Ocala, FL
so I've got a factory DPMS rifle that I can't get the barrel nut off of...I've tried the basics, ar wrench, penetrating oil etc. I'm using a vice, proper tools etc. I will be trying a propane torch as soon as I get my butt to lowes this am.

That damn thing is on there so tight, I actually broke a tooth on the factory barrel nut. And yes, I'm turning it the proper direction...

if the heat doesn't work, a friend of mine suggested putting it in the freezer for a while. Any drawbacks?

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums...8-D9E3-48B1-BF86-8DAB98781030_zpskicks87j.jpg
 
Have you tried cussing at it? Sometimes you gotta cuss 'em juuuuust right in order to get 'em to cooperate with ya.

Seriously, though, I think you're on the right track with the heat... just don't get too carried away with it, and remember to always keep the flame moving... the idea is to heat the entirety of the barrel nut, rather than just one spot.

I don't see a downside to the freezer trick, especially if used in conjunction with the torch. Freeze the whole shebang over night, then try heating the barrel nut. Aluminum being the excellent heat conductor that it is, I would expect that it wouldn't take too long for heat applied to the barrel nut to be transferred to the upper, but again... you have nothing to lose by trying the two approaches in conjunction with one another.
 
You're on the right track. I've always had good luck with a heat gun. If the heat/freeze method doesn't work you can mill a slot just short of the threads. This will usually relieve the tension or cause the nut to crack, it should then come off. Good luck.
 
I would try just the freezer first to see if that works. Heating 7075 T6 aluminum too much will cause it to loose its heat treat. It only takes about 300 or 400 degrees for that to happen.
 
I'm no pro, but over never seen anything like this on a one owner (me) gun before. I'm not reusing the barrel nut so I don't mind destroying it to get it off...
 
If it's some consolation, I wrecked the nut on my RPR trying to swap out barrels. Bitch never moved, broke off two rows of teeth. Magpul wrench undamaged. Buddy of mine works in a black gun shop, says that this is common, especially Palmetto State Armory uppers. Best guess is some type of galling on the molecular level, possibly electrolytic. The surface treatment on ARs is very, very rough on the molecular level - not like freshly machined metal. You can feel it when you twist a barrel nut on that has a tight fit - almost grinds. I think most of this has to do with surface finishes "mating in" over time under torque. Heat/cool all you want, nothing except a die grinder and a new nut - with some type of anti-siieze - is going to solve it. You did damned good considering what you were given to work with. Just be sure to grease up the new nut.

Edit to add: I've thought a lot about heating and cooling and what it actually does to the system we're working on. Heat actually tightens the clearances between the barrel nut and the action threads; but a little heat can make any greasy deposits more like grease and less like threadlocker. As far as cooling, Ziploc bags of dry ice can't be beat, just have on heavy gloves when you handle it. I've even used a CO2 extinguisher before, but that's $$$$ and for time-expedient situation only. Got an AR that I believe has an accuracy problem due to an over-tightented nut...with me luck...
 
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I've had that happen before on a BCM upper. The nut would not come off, tried everything. Eventually broke several teeth off it and then found the solve. Pipe wrench. I could put way more torque on it and it came right off.
 
Dude just use your armorers wrench with a half inch drive ratchet then slide a 4' piece of over the ratchet and it will come right off


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Dude just use your armorers wrench with a half inch drive ratchet then slide a 4' piece of over the ratchet and it will come right off


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not that easy...I ended up snapping the teeth off the barrel nut. It's off, but I tried the armorers wrench and ratchet...