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Stuck suppressor need help...
- Thread starter J Ferry
- Start date
quit dicking around with it, unthread the main body of the can off the ASR mount and keep it with you (the serial numbered part). Remove the muzzle device/stuck ASR mount off the barrel and send it back to Silencerco, they have the tools and knowledge to fix this properly. Channel locks and welding gas have no business around this problem and the water solutions have not worked out well for you, time to step aside and send it back before you (in your own words) screw something up. Too much time and money involved
You can temporarily use the direct thread mount which should have been included with the can until the ASR QD mount and muzzle device are "repaired" by Silencerco. For my bolt guns I use the direct thread mount anyway, the gas guns get a QD ASR mount as it weighs more.
You can temporarily use the direct thread mount which should have been included with the can until the ASR QD mount and muzzle device are "repaired" by Silencerco. For my bolt guns I use the direct thread mount anyway, the gas guns get a QD ASR mount as it weighs more.
Leave it soaking in a bucket of water for a week.
Stick the can in a vice with two blocks of soft wood on both sides between the can and the jaws with the asr mount sticking up. Crank it down until you hear the wood start snapping. You need it tight. The body of that can where all the baffles are is pretty damn stong and can take a good squeeze. Put the wrench in the asr and smack it with a hammer. Make sure the can isn't spinning. If that doesn’t work a 3lb sledge. If that doesn’t work slip a pipe or box end wrench or something to work as a breaker bar over the can spanner wrench for more leverage.
The outer sleeve may break loose first. If it does so take the front cap off and slide the sleeve off and then clamp back into the core. Don’t damage that serialized sleeve.
It’ll let loose. I have a bad habit of letting carbon build up until it’s locked on and do this often.
If you can feel the carbon built up along the inside of the can with your finger you kight crop the can in some clr for an hour or two to free that issue up a bit.
Stick the can in a vice with two blocks of soft wood on both sides between the can and the jaws with the asr mount sticking up. Crank it down until you hear the wood start snapping. You need it tight. The body of that can where all the baffles are is pretty damn stong and can take a good squeeze. Put the wrench in the asr and smack it with a hammer. Make sure the can isn't spinning. If that doesn’t work a 3lb sledge. If that doesn’t work slip a pipe or box end wrench or something to work as a breaker bar over the can spanner wrench for more leverage.
The outer sleeve may break loose first. If it does so take the front cap off and slide the sleeve off and then clamp back into the core. Don’t damage that serialized sleeve.
It’ll let loose. I have a bad habit of letting carbon build up until it’s locked on and do this often.
If you can feel the carbon built up along the inside of the can with your finger you kight crop the can in some clr for an hour or two to free that issue up a bit.
I was suggesting this earlier but edited it after reading his initial post again I believe the stuck portion is the threads between the mount and the can vs the mount/brake
I just sent mine back 3 weeks ago as the asr mount was carbon welded tot he can. It was fixed and returned within 10 days or less. Door to door. They may just be quoting a very liberal time frame but realistically mine was quick.
Yea his initial post is not real clear at all as to what exactly is improperly glued together. Either way it needs to go back to the factory for professional help. Having the correct tools and fixtures will make short work of this. Kind of like trying to open a can of fruit with a 10” chef knife instead of a can opener.
Agreed
When put together by hand with Rocksett my initial advice is boiling in water then using 2 strap wrenches or something similar to attempt to pull apart. After that sending it in or using it (because that’s why you put it on there in the first place) then send it in on the off season if you think it’ll be an issue
If you used Locktite RED then getting the joint (where the threads meet) to > 300F will likely work.
If you used Locktite GREEN then you need > 500F at the joint.
If you used RockSet then you probably will damage something because the heat requirement is far too high. Try a chemical and mechanical approach. If the joint exceeds 90 Lb-Ft - you probably won't be getting it apart. At that point, try raising the temp to the point where the metal glows … or accept defeat, and learn from the experience.
If you used Locktite GREEN then you need > 500F at the joint.
If you used RockSet then you probably will damage something because the heat requirement is far too high. Try a chemical and mechanical approach. If the joint exceeds 90 Lb-Ft - you probably won't be getting it apart. At that point, try raising the temp to the point where the metal glows … or accept defeat, and learn from the experience.
I say do nothing and drive on.
Dude, I've got an Omega 9k that I've used with ASR mounts for a while. I've got a couple mounts for pistols but the last time I swapped it out it was still new and only fired a handful of rounds... it was a pure bitch and I didn't use any thread locker.
Even if you hadn't thread locked it on there, it'd seize up after use anyway. I'll probably have to send mine back in if I wanna change mounts.
If I were you, I'd just fucking leave it and call it good. You plan on using some other mount besides the ASR? If so, then you're gonna be back to square one like I just said, thread lock or no you won't be getting that motherfucker off easy, ever. Large dia. + fine threads? Forget about it.
So I've got several of these cans, Saker's and that Omega 9k. One uses a MAAD mount and the others are ASR's. With the exception of the 9k, none of the others were ever taken apart, hell, they could be welded on the last few years and I wouldn't have known it.
So unless you actively plan on swapping mounts from ASR to MAAD to direct thread, etc., I'd say "fuck it" and leave it. Because if you ever DO need to take it apart in the future, it'll likely have to go back anyway because carbon buildup will be worse than thread locker in those fine threads.
Finally, those threads are so fine that my concern is flat out stripping them due to the force it takes to separate that damn can from the mount housing. And you can only clamp a suppressor in a vise so tight before you risk smashing one. Back to "send it back" then if taking it apart is a must.
Dude, I've got an Omega 9k that I've used with ASR mounts for a while. I've got a couple mounts for pistols but the last time I swapped it out it was still new and only fired a handful of rounds... it was a pure bitch and I didn't use any thread locker.
Even if you hadn't thread locked it on there, it'd seize up after use anyway. I'll probably have to send mine back in if I wanna change mounts.
If I were you, I'd just fucking leave it and call it good. You plan on using some other mount besides the ASR? If so, then you're gonna be back to square one like I just said, thread lock or no you won't be getting that motherfucker off easy, ever. Large dia. + fine threads? Forget about it.
So I've got several of these cans, Saker's and that Omega 9k. One uses a MAAD mount and the others are ASR's. With the exception of the 9k, none of the others were ever taken apart, hell, they could be welded on the last few years and I wouldn't have known it.
So unless you actively plan on swapping mounts from ASR to MAAD to direct thread, etc., I'd say "fuck it" and leave it. Because if you ever DO need to take it apart in the future, it'll likely have to go back anyway because carbon buildup will be worse than thread locker in those fine threads.
Finally, those threads are so fine that my concern is flat out stripping them due to the force it takes to separate that damn can from the mount housing. And you can only clamp a suppressor in a vise so tight before you risk smashing one. Back to "send it back" then if taking it apart is a must.
One last thing:
You should have two wrenches, right? Clamp one in the vise and hold the can up to it and attach the other wrench. Balance just right so it all doesn't fall apart...
That's gonna give you all the leverage you're gonna get with respect to taking that thing apart. You can put a piece of conduit or water pipe on the wrench to give some more leverage but be careful, if it doesn't slip and send your arm flying over the vise it can strip out those fine threads if you manage to get a solid enough bite with those wrenches.
If you can't do it that way, you're likely not gonna be able to do it.
If you're trying this with both wrenches in your lap it ain't gonna work.
If you can get a third hand to help out, using a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer can help by tapping the wrench until it breaks. I break 90% of shit that way and it's a lot easier, uses less force and less risk of damage. Painters tape can help with scratches and contact scars if that's an issue.
You should have two wrenches, right? Clamp one in the vise and hold the can up to it and attach the other wrench. Balance just right so it all doesn't fall apart...
That's gonna give you all the leverage you're gonna get with respect to taking that thing apart. You can put a piece of conduit or water pipe on the wrench to give some more leverage but be careful, if it doesn't slip and send your arm flying over the vise it can strip out those fine threads if you manage to get a solid enough bite with those wrenches.
If you can't do it that way, you're likely not gonna be able to do it.
If you're trying this with both wrenches in your lap it ain't gonna work.
If you can get a third hand to help out, using a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer can help by tapping the wrench until it breaks. I break 90% of shit that way and it's a lot easier, uses less force and less risk of damage. Painters tape can help with scratches and contact scars if that's an issue.
If you run three or four full mags through that can rapid fire, I promise you that thing will be hot enough to soften that rocksett. Quickly clear the weapon out, Have a buddy hold the rifle while you put the spanner wrench on and give her a couple whacks with a mallet.
or you can pull the can body off of the asr mount, which would give you a more direct access to blast the threads and break with a torch. Or water if you want to run that route too.
or you can pull the can body off of the asr mount, which would give you a more direct access to blast the threads and break with a torch. Or water if you want to run that route too.
^ obviously does not know anything about rocksett
@TxWelder35
Perhaps not, but I’ve had Omegas I’ve rocksetted together still start unscrewing themselves before, after they got hot.
Also, every brake I’ve ever installed using rocksett, I’ve been able to break loose after applying heat.
Perhaps not, but I’ve had Omegas I’ve rocksetted together still start unscrewing themselves before, after they got hot.
Also, every brake I’ve ever installed using rocksett, I’ve been able to break loose after applying heat.
Then you could have broke them loose without the heat.
But in any case none of that matters because he isn’t worried about the brake.
And he can’t pull the body off the asr. That’s his issue!
Can you post a picture of what you're trying to do it might be helpful to see. Is this thing stainless steel if you get stainless too hot it can sometimes guald the threads and then you're screwed
Yes, and an ultrasonic cleaner works great on removing muzzle devices that have been Rocksett on.
I've used oxy acetylene to soften red Loctite, but we had to get those 1 1/2' bolt heads orange to get them to loosen. Have also seen studs held in with the red, break free at 1000 ft-lbs torque. I realize Rocksett is different, but I'd send it in so nothing gets ruined and chalk it up to experience...
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