Sidearms & Scatterguns Stubborn RMR screws

[impactaddict]

Time to change the batteries and these little screws are being stubborn. Was thinking about applying some heat with a solder iron or throwing the in deep freeze for a bit but didn’t want to damage any electronics.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[kl3309]

If you've already stripped 'em, hammer a torx bit in there and slowly work them out.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Soldering iron trick usually works just don’t heat it up too much. Also try putting a bit in it and tapping it with a small hammer or punch.

If it’s on a mounting plate try the soldering iron on the side of the plate first and do one side at a time. Tap your bit with the hammer first.

 

[Genin]

I agree with hammering a bit in there and trying. I’ve also just drilled them out in the past on a buddy’s gun. If you go slow it will be fine.

 

[Edsel]

Stripped rail screws how to unscrew?

Hello, I have one stripped screws on the Picatinny rail of my rifle. I made some attemps with WD40, soldering iron, various size of torx and Allen bit, but not lucky for me. I would make another attempt with epoxy glue for iron, placing One drop on the head of the screws for gluing the torx...

www.snipershide.com

Drill them out and replace them…

 

[strikeeagle1]

When you remove the hex head style, replace the fasteners with Torx style.
These Grab-iT extractors are the best. Simple cordless drill in reverse mode.

You don't want to use heat or excessive impact on the fasteners with the optic electronics.

 

[impactaddict]

They’re not stripped. Optic is on a C+H plate. Still have good bite with the Allen key, they just won’t budge. I’ll try some heat with the solder pen first. If that doesn’t work, I’ll just take it somewhere. I’d like to get some torx screws to replace these stupid Allen heads.

 

[308pirate]

They’re not stripped. Optic is on a C+H plate. Still have good bite with the Allen key, they just won’t budge. I’ll try some heat with the solder pen first. If that doesn’t work, I’ll just take it somewhere. I’d like to get some torx screws to replace these stupid Allen heads.

Heat with a soldering iron. Torx drive 6-32s are harder to find compared to phlipps drive and phillips head screws are more than capable of taking the breakaway torque needed to overcome blue Loctite plus 16 - 18 lbf-in of torque.

They are all that I use on my trijicon pistol red dots.

ETA I just noticed it's a C&H plate with its stupid bosses and tiny 4-40 screws. When you get the optic off take the plate off too and replace it with one that uses what the optic is supposed to be screwed down with: 6-32.

 

[Edsel]

They’re not stripped.

Sacrifice the screws rather than the electronics, would prefer to avoid heating it with a soldering iron.

 

[Mike Casselton]

Try turning the little screws INWARD, just enough to detect movement.
Then they should spin right out.
We had to use this technique on aircraft skin/panel fasteners that were stubborn.
They usually had a bit of corrosion on them and the inward movement preserved the contact points on the fastener where the bit would grab.

If you've ever dealt with coin slot or aircraft style torx (not the same as the gun style) you'll understand why we used to turn them in first.

 

[mebgardner]

When you get it off, replace the optic with a different battery config. Side or top loader.

 

[308pirate]

When you get it off, replace the optic with a different battery config. Side or top loader.

There's nothing wrong with the optic. The problem lies in the optic plate and it's severely undersized screws.

An RMR set to auto brightness will last years constantly on.

 

[Edsel]

It just occurred to me…

You heat the nuts to get them to expand outward relative to the bolt’s threads (which get heated and expanded less) to loosen them.

If you heat the screws, you’re expanding them into the threads and tightening them, which worsens things.

Or was the recommendation made to break down some adhesive?