Suppressor wall for 308

[KAZ1014]

Hi all, I'm quite new here.

I'm planning to build surefire'ish 308 suppressor for Rem m700 like attached.
How thick the outer can should be? Material will be Stainless 304. OD is 1.5".
Some articles says outer can needs to be 0.065 or more for 308. But can it be build by 0.045 for less weight?
There will be 0.045 wall for blast chamber as well.

Thanks!

KZ

 

[Aftermath]

Ya got some reading to do, for sure.

 

[atomic41]

 

[carbonbased]

View attachment 8431836
Ya got some reading to do, for sure.

Can’t quite make it out

 

[KAZ1014]

Come on… this SS is designed to atttach MB762SS, so there is outside screw (SF QD) and pin is for rotation lock.

 

[Terry Cross]

Hi all, I'm quite new here.

I'm planning to build surefire'ish 308 suppressor for Rem m700 like attached.
How thick the outer can should be? Material will be Stainless 304. OD is 1.5".
Some articles says outer can needs to be 0.065 or more for 308. But can it be build by 0.045 for less weight?
There will be 0.045 wall for blast chamber as well.

Thanks!
View attachment 8431827
KZ

You may want to go as thick as a 0.250" wall thickness to hold everything together when fired.
According to your drawing, you are going to have at least 11 baffle strikes with the first round.
also...

Your intercept pin is about 500% longer than it needs to be.
I would recommend shortening it.

On the other hand, you could lengthen it another 0.300" to ensure that your projectile impacts it during transit of the suppressor body. This will make the projectile tumble which, as we learned in Nam, increases lethality like 3000%.



Follow me for more suppressor design tips.

Sincerely
Double stripe wind suit guy.

.

 

[owtlaw]

I wouldn't use 304. 17-4 is the better choice.

 

[Yondering]

Yeah I'd choose 17-4 over 304 too. Or, if this is a threaded tube as it appears? then maybe go with grade 5 titanium; the tube is a little more $$ but not too bad.

If this is a threaded can, even with 17-4 I'd want that .065" thickness to be at the thread root; don't just start with .065" tube and then thread it. Of course if you're up for all the machining you could start with thicker tube and thin out most of it except in the threaded areas.
Most modern rifle cans have welded bodies rather than threaded, but you can make a threaded body work well for a F1 home job.

Another observation, although OP didn't ask - those dome baffles are pretty old tech and fell out of favor a long time ago because 60° cones generally work better and are easier to machine. In the cans I've made for 308, 6.5 Creed, etc I settled on making the cones from 17-4, with the first two .100" thick (a bit overkill for longevity) and the rest .060" thick for more internal volume and weight savings.

OP - based on the questions I'm hoping/assuming you at least have machine shop access and experience? If not, this is going to be a much steeper learning curve than you expect.

Also, did you get an approved F1 yet? A while back the ATF decided to start denying suppressor F1s because of the whole solvent trap thing - bs but that's the ATF. I don't know if they're allowing them through again or not, which is why I ask. If you haven't got one approved yet, start with that before going too far down this road.

 

[AMGtuned]

Hi all, I'm quite new here.

I'm planning to build surefire'ish 308 suppressor for Rem m700 like attached.
How thick the outer can should be? Material will be Stainless 304. OD is 1.5".
Some articles says outer can needs to be 0.065 or more for 308. But can it be build by 0.045 for less weight?
There will be 0.045 wall for blast chamber as well.

Thanks!
View attachment 8431827
KZ

316 would be a better choice than 304; but if that is what you've got, then . As mentioned already, Gr5 Ti or 17-4 stainless would be the best options.

What wasn't mentioned is that 17-4 is only available in bar stock. So you would have to bore the entire thing in order to make a tube. Totally can be done, has been done, and is being done. But you need a pretty stout setup to accomplish it.

Outer tube wall thickness should be 0.065"; a minimum IMO, but the thickness of all my Ti tubes. Only thing I use 0.035" wall tubing for is spacer material. Baffles are anywhere between .04-.06" thick, with skirts (if applicable) from .03-.04.

Doing pressed baffles is going to be tricky to keep uniform without the right setup; at that point, consider a good freeze plug or move on.

There is a great combination of things, that make the SF can you modeled after, a good performer. My best advice, if this is your first F1 build; design and build a muzzle forward can that's 7-9" in length, with 7-10 baffles, and uses a better mounting system.

Good luck, stay legal, get your dog a flak jacket

 

[KAZ1014]

Hi All, thanks for comments.

I just updated basic drawing according your comments.

Actually this is clone of FA762SS. I don't have exact one, so most of design came from X-ray of FA556K which is family series back then.

This can will be all welded. (Orange allows) And uses SF mounting system (outside thread is for surefire QD ring.) Base (Yellow) is came from SF Warden.

I try to use 17-4 but if its difficult might have to stick to 304, and minimum thickness to 0.065. but will it be thick enough for blast chamber area?
Rifle is just a .308 / m700, so not expecting semi auto or dozens of rapid fire.

As AMGtuned mentioned, first 4 baffles is 0.07 and rest is .035 (just like old SF can)

I understand that 60degree corn is most popular one but for this can, I'd like to clone old gen.
Since its piled up and welded baffles and spacers, planning to use Wire EDM cutting to make exact center bore (about 0.375).


I have another idea for stronger blast unit. Seal the blast area with 0.065, then use 0.035 for outer can. How does it look?
I was looking at griffin armament suppressor Optimus, and they only have heavy blast chamber and the rest baffle unit is used as multi cal.

Current weight estimate is around 23oz, so wants to keep it same or little lighter.

Thanks all. KZ