Just curious but does the weight of a rifle suppressor go up , go down, or stay the same with use?
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Suppressors Suppressor weight change with use
- Thread starter ronas
- Start date
On a rimfire can you will start to see them gain some weight as they build up with lead/carbon. On centerfire cans where you are using jacketed ammo you should see minimal gains in weight as they generally shouldn't be building up too much carbon and lead buildup should be minimal if not non-existent. Obviously if you are using your centerfire can for rimfire use or with cast bullets you will see leading and your weight will increase.
So far these have been my experiences with all of my cans at least.
So far these have been my experiences with all of my cans at least.
My experience with center fire cans has been different. Two years ago I purchased a srt shadow xl ti. I have put approximately 6000 centerfire rounds and 1500 rimfire rounds thru it. The can weighed 16 oz when I got it. It now weighs 24 oz and I have tried every form of cleaning I could find on the internet. It is a sealed can so disassembly and manual cleaning wasn't an option. I tried the peroxide and vinegar. Tried carburetor cleaner soaking for two days. Tried clp soaking for two days. None of this worked. The suppressor still weighed 24 oz. I called doug at srt and was told to send it in for a professional cleaning. This was going to have an estimated cost of $100-200 plus shipping both ways. I loved my srt but I am not willing to spend that kind of money to get it cleaned every 2 years. My decision was to open up my srt (not an easy task) and have corey from lane silencer inc install a new mono core that can be disassembled and cleaned as needed. When I disassembled srt, I could not believe how much carbon build up there was. Three of the baffles were 60-80 percent full of carbon with the vent holes completely plugged. I am not sure if all sealed cans are like this but I will only be running servicable ones from now on. Just something to think about. I will post some picks of the baffles.
![20140314_083402[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11926-0c26af03af4658b2b0e22d111f0d6a97.jpg "20140314_083402[1].jpg")
![20140314_083350[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11927-68f97e854a002761a0e285e6ea6ebf8b.jpg "20140314_083350[1].jpg")
![20140314_083500[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11928-ddcdf99844472b6e7b46114c18274e92.jpg "20140314_083500[1].jpg")
![20140314_083535[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11929-115f4c8560ecef34b119f3a3d9e610d0.jpg "20140314_083535[1].jpg")
![20140314_083450[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11930-90f80b205ebdc875d0e3c02dc0684521.jpg "20140314_083450[1].jpg")
![20140314_083421[1].jpg](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/data/attachments/11/11933-1da3e3070a153be498f6c384c1f4a5bc.jpg "20140314_083421[1].jpg")
One more pic that shows exactly how plugged the baffles are. I find it hard to believe these cans are self cleaning like i read all the time. I am glad i found a way to get it fixed where my titanium can wont weigh as much as a stainless can. I will post some pics of the new core and the on target results when it gets back from the repair shop.
Was on the phone couple months ago with a lady from Thunder Beast Arms, the subject of cleaning suppressors came up. She said they have had good luck with "CLR", a common cleaner found in hardware stores.
XTRTITAN, did you clean the SRT baffles up? What to they look like after being cleaned compared to the dirty pix? Thanks.
AAC has said that, with newer materials like Inconel, they are seeing rifle silencers fill up with carbon rather than wearing out like they used to.
No. I did not clean them but I could not see any damage other than what I did to get the suppressor apart. It would be tough to disassmble without causing damage to the internal components as they are basically fused together. I gave the baffles to Lane Silencer as I understand u are only allowed 1 set of baffles. It is definitly not a design that can be disassembled and cleaned on a regular basis. After seeing the inside of this can, I dont believe u could get rid of the carbon without complete disassembly.
They can be very effectively cleaned using a variety of chemical and/or ultrasonic methods. We have a few "newer" methods that we're trying as well, just to cut down on the time involved. Carb cleaner or CLP aren't going to do anything other than make a mess. You need something that chemically attacks the carbon. We have been having good results with CLR.
One other note, there can be a HUGE difference in the amount of carbon deposited in a suppressor based on the powder used, or even the combination of powers/loads/cartridges. One thing we know now is that H1000 fouls much, much more than some other powders such as H4350, Varget, or H4831SC.
One other note, there can be a HUGE difference in the amount of carbon deposited in a suppressor based on the powder used, or even the combination of powers/loads/cartridges. One thing we know now is that H1000 fouls much, much more than some other powders such as H4350, Varget, or H4831SC.
Zak
are you seeing the weight gains with the TBAC cans that I seen with SRT? Should a guy be cleaning more frequently to avoid build up like this? Can u effectively reduce the weight back near original weight with these cleaning techniques?
Not trying to put you on the spot, just looking to avoid problems with future cans. I have been extremely happy with SRT. If I could have got it back near the orginal weight without sending it for professional cleaning it would have never got opened. There doesnt seem to be alot of info on cleaning centerfire cans.
are you seeing the weight gains with the TBAC cans that I seen with SRT? Should a guy be cleaning more frequently to avoid build up like this? Can u effectively reduce the weight back near original weight with these cleaning techniques?
Not trying to put you on the spot, just looking to avoid problems with future cans. I have been extremely happy with SRT. If I could have got it back near the orginal weight without sending it for professional cleaning it would have never got opened. There doesnt seem to be alot of info on cleaning centerfire cans.
I clean my TBAC centerfire cans regularly (every few hundred rounds) and always get them back to within .01-.02 ounces of the original weight. I have found that my 30P1 picks up about 1 oz. in about 500 rounds (260, 4831SC, 142 MK). I have not allowed my can to build up weight long enough to "level off" and I probably won't try. I have been using the "Dip", but am going to try CLR on the recommendation of TBAC. As I understand it, CLR will work on the carbon deposits, but not the lead that you get from rimfire cans. I think weight build up is a potential accuracy issue that can be easily avoided with regular cleaning. If you can tune a barrel with a weight on the barrel, there is no reason to thinks you can't de-tune a barrel with weight build-up in the can. Just my humble opinion...
Open question for Zak/Shane: Do you guys dilute the CLR or use it full strength?
Open question for Zak/Shane: Do you guys dilute the CLR or use it full strength?
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Hi,
Our best understanding at this point is that it depends to a very large degree on the powders used (powders, loads, cartridges, combinations). Some of our demo/match cans have many thousands of rounds through them and have never been cleaned, and have only gained a couple/few ounces. The same 30P-1 I've been using on my match rifles since we first made them either hasn't been cleaned or was only cleaned once (I honestly can't remember) and it weighs close to the same as original. And most of our cans out in the wild do not accumulate an excessive amount.
However... we have seen two or three cans that had gained an excessive amount (like 8-10 or more ounces). What these cans had in common was use on magnum cartridges with H1000. In either case you can clean them back to near original weight with the methods described above (sometimes in combination).
If you do notice marked accumulation, it is definitely easier to clean them out when they're +4 or +5 ounces instead of a half pound or more of carbon in there.
We use it full strength.
If any of our customers has a really hard time getting the fouling out we're happy to take it back and work on it here and normally the only cost would be shipping.
We are trying out some new cleaning formulations and some other techniques that have been mentioned here on SH in other threads, but we're not ready to recommend them yet.
hope this helps
Zak
Our best understanding at this point is that it depends to a very large degree on the powders used (powders, loads, cartridges, combinations). Some of our demo/match cans have many thousands of rounds through them and have never been cleaned, and have only gained a couple/few ounces. The same 30P-1 I've been using on my match rifles since we first made them either hasn't been cleaned or was only cleaned once (I honestly can't remember) and it weighs close to the same as original. And most of our cans out in the wild do not accumulate an excessive amount.
However... we have seen two or three cans that had gained an excessive amount (like 8-10 or more ounces). What these cans had in common was use on magnum cartridges with H1000. In either case you can clean them back to near original weight with the methods described above (sometimes in combination).
If you do notice marked accumulation, it is definitely easier to clean them out when they're +4 or +5 ounces instead of a half pound or more of carbon in there.
We use it full strength.
If any of our customers has a really hard time getting the fouling out we're happy to take it back and work on it here and normally the only cost would be shipping.
We are trying out some new cleaning formulations and some other techniques that have been mentioned here on SH in other threads, but we're not ready to recommend them yet.
hope this helps
Zak
Thats good to hear Zak. I am glad somebody is taking the time to do the research for the consumers so we can come up with an effective solution for cleaning. Tbac and its employees are a stand up company that does amazing things for our sport. Thanks for your info on this topic. I will be anxiously awaiting any new cleaning techniques developed. Thanks again
Ran across this thread while researching cleaning sealed cans. I have two that are 4-6 ounces heavier now than they were new and would like to clean them before they gunk up anymore. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner and don't plan to get one.
CLR safe to use or jury still out? CLR damage can components in any way (I'd rather have a dirty, heavy can than a damaged can)? Cleaning process? Submerge can in it over night then rinse w/ water? Pour it through can then rinse w/ water? Something else more effective and safe?
Thanks for the intel.
CLR safe to use or jury still out? CLR damage can components in any way (I'd rather have a dirty, heavy can than a damaged can)? Cleaning process? Submerge can in it over night then rinse w/ water? Pour it through can then rinse w/ water? Something else more effective and safe?
Thanks for the intel.
Dusting off an older thread, but hopefully this subject is still of interest here....
So, How long should the can be soaked in CLR? I can see carbon falling out after 10 mins, but I have no idea how much is actually in the can.
Never weighed the can (a Shark) when it was new, unfortunately.
So, How long should the can be soaked in CLR? I can see carbon falling out after 10 mins, but I have no idea how much is actually in the can.
Never weighed the can (a Shark) when it was new, unfortunately.
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As noted above, I clean my cans regularly. I use a graduated cylinder to minimize the quantity of chemical needed. One of the things that I've noticed is that the CLR softens the carbon deposits fairly quickly, but doesn't necessarily dislodge the stuff. I soak the can for a day and then use various means to help dislodge the softened carbon including forcing water through it, shaking it, etc. - and repeating as necessary. One of the best tricks I've found for dislodging the carbon is compressed air using a modified Harbour Freight extended nozzle. (See pics) I have found that that I can get the suppressor almost spotless clean on the inside with a 2-3 cycles like this.
I know that others have had great success with a similar arrangement using a power washer (I think TBAC does this). I plan to try it, but haven't got all the parts yet.
On the pictures, note that the ends of the nozzles have been plugged and that I have drilled two forward angled holes near the plugged tips. Warning: This is effective, but messy, so I do it in a utility sink. Also, hang on to your can or the air will launch it.
I know that others have had great success with a similar arrangement using a power washer (I think TBAC does this). I plan to try it, but haven't got all the parts yet.
On the pictures, note that the ends of the nozzles have been plugged and that I have drilled two forward angled holes near the plugged tips. Warning: This is effective, but messy, so I do it in a utility sink. Also, hang on to your can or the air will launch it.
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I still clean my rimfire can using "the dip" (1:1 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide), but I do not use the compressed air on it because of the of the lead acetate toxicity issues. I just soak, pour off the solution to a hazmat jug, and rinse until done.
Do not use hydrogen peroxide
My suppressors are titanium, water won't hurt them
I use hot water about 1/2 gallon
1 cup Dawn (liquid blue stuff)
1/3 cup Lemi shine
soak 24 hours or so
powder wipes off, for some parts I use a little Allen wrench carbon comes right off
My suppressors are titanium, water won't hurt them
I use hot water about 1/2 gallon
1 cup Dawn (liquid blue stuff)
1/3 cup Lemi shine
soak 24 hours or so
powder wipes off, for some parts I use a little Allen wrench carbon comes right off
Why not? The only thing it contributes to "the dip" is bubbles. It is the vinegar (acetic acid) that reacts with the lead to create a soluble lead salt (lead acetate) and causes the potential hazard. The only other acids that will do this are nitric and perchloric and they are both a lot more hazardous, difficult to obtain and expensive.
Are you able to remove lead deposits with Dawn and "Lemi Shine"?
Are you leaving all of this in a sonic cleaner to keep it hot? Are the finish parts also being soaked?
I just start with really hot water
lead does come off
ultrasonic should work great..others have one it
I have not
lead does come off
ultrasonic should work great..others have one it
I have not
