Suppressors Suppressors.... carbon build up ?

[Aimsmall55]

Maybe a dumb question but I got my first suppressor about a year ago. It’s a SAS ARBITER set up on the TOMB system. I’m shooting it on a .308, .300 Win mag, .300 BLACKOUT, and a couple of Ar15s.
My question is knowing that there has to be a massive build up of residue inside the suppressor does anyone attempt to clean out the suppressor from time to time or do you just let it ride? Again i apologize if this is a dumb question. Just trying to get the most effectiveness out of my equipment.

 

[lash]

I have the same suppressor. Mostly a whole bunch of .260 over H4350 through it. Just recently, I decided to clean it since carbon was falling back into the action anytime the rifle was held with the barrel up.

There are a few threads on here discussing methods to clean suppressors. I soaked overnight in CLR, rinsed and then into a ultrasonic cleaner with a 50/50 mix of simple green. I did the US For quite a bit, then rinsed it out again and let it dry for a few days.

 

[Aimsmall55]

I have the same suppressor. Mostly a whole bunch of .260 over H4350 through it. Just recently, I decided to clean it since carbon was falling back into the action anytime the rifle was held barrel up.

If you don’t mind me asking how’d you clean it? I’ve got some boretech carbon cleaner that might work well ?

 

[lash]

If you don’t mind me asking how’d you clean it? I’ve got some boretech carbon cleaner that might work well ?

Yeah, the stupid phone posted before I could complete my post. I've edited and added my cleaning method in my post above.

 

[lead ƒarmer]

Yes you will have to clean them if you shoot a lot. I know most guys online say "just shoot it" but if you shoot much you are going to have buildup. Like lash said, when you tip the barrel up carbon chunks/flakes will eventually fall out and I've actually had my bolt lock up from this. My favorite cleaning method is "the dip" 50/50 hydrogen peroxide/vinegar, or CLR works ok too. When they get real bad, it will take multiple soaks to clean it out thoroughly.

 

[CUBUFF89]

Do any of the manufacturers recommend against either of the common methods, CLR or "the dip"? Specifically I hope to take delivery soon for my Omega. Wondering if either method will adversely affect the metallurgy.

 

[Lunchbox27]

Do any of the manufacturers recommend against either of the common methods, CLR or "the dip"? Specifically I hope to take delivery soon for my Omega. Wondering if either method will adversely affect the metallurgy.

I have had my omega for 2 years now. I would guess there is some 4,000+ rounds through it. I finally put it on a scale the other day and its picked up 3.5oz since first getting it. Im gonna hit up SilencerCo and ask what they recommend as I hear some pieces rattling in there.

Side note... if you ever plan to swap between ASR and direct thread, make sure you clean the mounts and threads on the can. I went close to 2k rounds since I run direct thread 90% of the time, but tried to take it off to put on the ASR mount and it took hours to break it free.

Pic is when I finally got it off, before cleaning.

 

[lash]

Do any of the manufacturers recommend against either of the common methods, CLR or "the dip"? Specifically I hope to take delivery soon for my Omega. Wondering if either method will adversely affect the metallurgy.

There is a thread here wherein TBAC specifically condones both of these methods for cleaning your can. Just be sure that you wear gloves and have a decent disposal method if using the dip.

 

[mdmp5]

Some baffle designs don't get very dirty from what I have read. I saw a Q can cut in half sagittally, and there was no carbon buildup at all after a bunch of rounds through it

 

[lash]

Some baffle designs don't get very dirty from what I have read. I saw a Q can cut in half sagittally, and there was no carbon buildup at all after a bunch of rounds through it

Sagittally? Whatta we have heah, a docta?

That may very well be, but I believe that the specific powder used is an important piece of the puzzle. That and probably a number of other variables having to do with barrel length, burn rate, charge size and cartridge used.

 

[Strykervet]

Yes you will have to clean them if you shoot a lot. I know most guys online say "just shoot it" but if you shoot much you are going to have buildup. Like lash said, when you tip the barrel up carbon chunks/flakes will eventually fall out and I've actually had my bolt lock up from this. My favorite cleaning method is "the dip" 50/50 hydrogen peroxide/vinegar, or CLR works ok too. When they get real bad, it will take multiple soaks to clean it out thoroughly.

Make sure you are careful using vinegar --it forms lead acetate when it dissolves lead and that's absorbed by the skin.

I don't clean the centerfires but they haven't junked up on me either. The oldest SDN6 has never been cleaned and it's got a thin layer of carbon but not enough to worry about. .300BLK may surprise me one day though. .22 can is totally different. I have a Mystic X, only used for 9mm, and you can take that one apart and after the first baffle or two they don't build up much so I stopped cleaning it. If you don't see a whole lot on the blast baffle, you won't have much more in the rest of it. The blast baffle and first chamber will always be the dirtiest. Some powders are known for being dirtier than others too, so one guy with one caliber may not have to clean as much as the next guy with same caliber, different powder.

The .22 cans get super nasty fast regardless and I either do a quick cleaning with a pick and brush or put it in a pan of Kroil, then submerge that in a US cleaner full of water. The Kroil prevents it from damaging the finish or the metal if it's aluminum and it breaks up the carbon and gunk so what's left comes off really easy with a pick and brush (much faster/easier than without it).

US cleaners work better than just about anything else for getting in places you normally can't, but I've seen horror stories using 'em with aluminum and various finishes. However, Hornady's US cleaner is made to submerge an AR upper so I don't know if their cleaner is safe or what. They clean brass like nothing else can.

You can also weigh it clean and compare it dirty to find out how dirty. Some mfg.'s will clean the can if you send it back to them for free if it's heavy enough. Personally, if mine was THAT dirty I'd have already cleaned it out...

 

[Mordamer]

Carbon builds up much worse in suppressors used on bolt action rifles with low rates of fire. Suppressors used on semi-autos with high rates of fire heat up much more. The heat helps break down the carbon and send it out the muzzle. I have successfully cleaned a lot of built up carbon from bolt action shooting out of a Silencerco Saker by putting it on an AR and sending 60 to 90 rounds through it as fast as I could pull the trigger. This suppressor is built for those rates of fire though. After doing this there was a lot less carbon in the blast chamber of the suppressor.

 

[lash]

...

US cleaners work better than just about anything else for getting in places you normally can't, but I've seen horror stories using 'em with aluminum and various finishes. However, Hornady's US cleaner is made to submerge an AR upper so I don't know if their cleaner is safe or what. ....

The secret with US cleaners and aluminum is to use the correct cleaning solutions. The regular cleaners that are readily available are often not safe for cleaning aluminum and will usually tell you so right on the bottle. Secondly, you should ideally separate the aluminum from the stainless US tank using a plastic or similar basket for best results.

 

[FishinGuns]

Sagittally? Whatta we have heah, a docta?

Not a fan of saggy titties...

 

[Sieg]

I'm using straight distilled white vinegar on my .22lr Tactical Solutions Axiom titanium cones and end caps. Rolling boiling for 10-12 minutes, drain into a colander and rinse with hot water and a light brushing under warm water with a nylon firearms brush. Easiest most effective method I've found.

This picture was after a mix of 700-800 rounds of CCI SV and SK Std+.

My brother just tried vinegar in his ultrasonic at 140* and said it worked great and safer than fumes from boiling.

I'll try my RCBS ultrasonic next cleaning.

 

[lash]

That looks like it works well. Only problem with using it on most of the CF cans is they are typically not user serviceable and therefore cannot be scrubbed. You have a hole on either end and that's it. That being said, I'll try the straight vinegar method in my US next time and see if it does any good.

 

[bigdaddydmd]

I recently picked up my Omega and added a little bit of silver never-seize to the threads of the mount and endcap. Will this help at all with keeping the caps and mount from seizing so I can disassemble for cleaning or swapping ASR to direct thread mount? Is using never-seize recommended? Will it have a negative effect on the suppressor, i.e. should I go remove it? I would think it can't hurt the can, but perhaps there is someone here that knows for sure.

I have had my omega for 2 years now. I would guess there is some 4,000+ rounds through it. I finally put it on a scale the other day and its picked up 3.5oz since first getting it. Im gonna hit up SilencerCo and ask what they recommend as I hear some pieces rattling in there.

Side note... if you ever plan to swap between ASR and direct thread, make sure you clean the mounts and threads on the can. I went close to 2k rounds since I run direct thread 90% of the time, but tried to take it off to put on the ASR mount and it took hours to break it free.

Pic is when I finally got it off, before cleaning.

 

[Lunchbox27]

I recently picked up my Omega and added a little bit of silver never-seize to the threads of the mount and endcap. Will this help at all with keeping the caps and mount from seizing so I can disassemble for cleaning or swapping ASR to direct thread mount? Is using never-seize recommended? Will it have a negative effect on the suppressor, i.e. should I go remove it? I would think it can't hurt the can, but perhaps there is someone here that knows for sure.

I have nickle anti-seize on there. Didn't help. There was so much carbon in there, it just caked on the threads. Honestly, if you take the thread adapters off every 4-500 rounds and give them a good cleaning, you will be good. I went way too long without some TLC to my Omega.