Tac Ops Rifles

I had some fun at the range yesterday... I took a friend of mine who has never shot a precision rifle before to the range. I went over the fundamentals, and helped him build a good shooting position. He then proceeded to shoot a spent 9mm casing at 100 yards on the first shot with my 300 Win Mag X-Ray 66. I've never seen someone sooo excited!
DW
 
I had some fun at the range yesterday... I took a friend of mine who has never shot a precision rifle before to the range. I went over the fundamentals, and helped him build a good shooting position. He then proceeded to shoot a spent 9mm casing at 100 yards on the first shot with my 300 Win Mag X-Ray 66. I've never seen someone sooo excited!
DW
Shoots better than me …fucker ..lol
 
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Reactions: kthomas
Anyone know what Mike uses to put the brakes on rifles? Any thread locker? I need to get it off so I can shoot it suppressed later. Got a call into Mike on this but he may be busy

I'm not sure, but have you tried removing it?

If it's tight you could always put something like a wooden dowel between the ports as a lever and turn it. Shouldn't hurt a thing and I would be surprised if you couldn't remove it this way.
 
I'm not sure, but have you tried removing it?

If it's tight you could always put something like a wooden dowel between the ports as a lever and turn it. Shouldn't hurt a thing and I would be surprised if you couldn't remove it this way.

Yes, I have tried. I've done many brake removals and installs. No flats for a wrench. Wood dowel is no where near strong enough.

Metal bar in the ports won't budge but I have not FULLY clamped the barrel yet.

Want to see if Mike recommends heat or soaking it before I put some real actual torque into it
 
Yes, I have tried. I've done many brake removals and installs. No flats for a wrench. Wood dowel is no where near strong enough.

Metal bar in the ports won't budge but I have not FULLY clamped the barrel yet.

Want to see if Mike recommends heat or soaking it before I put some real actual torque into it

Interesting, guess it's on really tight- better than the opposite problem :ROFLMAO: not much that's more annoying than a brake that constantly comes loose...

I don't have any of Mike's brakes, so can't offer up much else to help. Mike will certainly know what to do.
 
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Anyone know what Mike uses to put the brakes on rifles? Any thread locker? I need to get it off so I can shoot it suppressed later. Got a call into Mike on this but he may be busy
I think it's the surface finish on where it mates to the barrel.
If you have a perfect finish you can put it on hand tight and it will take a wrench and a hammer to get it off.
 
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I’ll have guys at work come get me saying they can’t get something off/apart.

I always ask the same question,

Is it broken and needs to be replaced anyway?

When the answer is yes..rip it off it’s already broken, who cares if it comes off in pieces. Equipment has to run.
 
- Tacops MF-51
- Schmidt 3-20 Ultra Short GRIID reticle
- Spuhr 4001C
- Wieband cheekpad (need to get longer
straps for my Tacops cheekpad - my
melon head sits pretty dam high)
- Padded rifle bolt case ordered from New
Zealand - very nice quality


- Amazon sourced case until my custom
case is finished - for now this fits perfect
and pretty well made. I tried nice US made
options and can't find one that's wide
enough for the folder and badger EFR with
rail section while still being short to match
folded length.

20230331_130004.jpg

MF-51 2.jpg
 
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I want to believe, but it’s only about 10% away from a Tangent 7-35 depending on what deal you can work. Things in Schmidt’s favor include not using a 36mm mount, though.
I saw the thing in person resolve cell-tower cables at 3380m on 15X. I think Jerry is on the hide too, he can chime in since I was at the Winchester, VA shop on Wednesday.

They have a winner for sure. Not to mention 42 mils of internal elevation on the DTII+ offerings. We’ll see how it stacks up to the TT735P though.