Precision Rifle Gear Tango Innovations FIRE4000 WMLRF Initial Impressions

It is pretty stupid that it doesn't come with environmental sensors. No, I don't want yet another thing to hang on my rifle that is dependent on my phone or kestrel.

AB being reactive to this criticism online is a pretty shitty look.

You can't make an accurate temperature sensor work. <Ignores the Impact 4000, Mars Lc, Wilcox Raptar>

I'm going to laugh at all the defensive nut hanging if the new Sig WLRF comes with AB and environmental sensors.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Maurygold
IMG_8430.jpeg
 
A lot of us have been grabbing enviro on the kestrel and locking it in with success for a long time and prefer it that way. This feels to me like a preference thing, if you want it onboard, this device is obviously not for you at this time. We are kinda beating a dead horse here guys.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boomslang
A lot of us have been grabbing enviro on the kestrel and locking it in with success for a long time and prefer it that way. This feels to me like a preference thing, if you want it onboard, this device is obviously not for you at this time. We are kinda beating a dead horse here guys.
a long time? it's been out for a month.

The influencers and company are all being very quiet about these shortcomings and blatant attempt to make the unit cheaper without reflecting that in the price.
 
A lot of us have been grabbing enviro on the kestrel and locking it in with success for a long time and prefer it that way. This feels to me like a preference thing, if you want it onboard, this device is obviously not for you at this time. We are kinda beating a dead horse here guys.
Yeah, so that might happen when there is a valid critique of a product guys. Maybe we all shouldn't be defensive about that. You know in a thread about a product that came out last month.

To your other point, just because I use a Kestrel for PRS doesn't mean I want that same workflow for other rifle uses. Many of the other similar products, except for this one, have these features. Since we are all gatekeeping on this, I will leave it at.
 
@Maurygold Yes a long time. Like since the Kestrel hit the market…

There are maybe a handful of “influencers” (lol) that received unit for free that I’ve seen? Idk, I’m honestly not that plugged in but they were all upfront about enviros not being included on board, including myself in the half ass of a review I wrote, or am I wrong?

@GenericBadGuy yeah man, most of the others are on board. I’m just saying we are going in circles here. Tango only has inclinometer on board as far as sensors go, enviro has to come in from an external device.
 
Yeah, so that might happen when there is a valid critique of a product guys. Maybe we all shouldn't be defensive about that. You know in a thread about a product that came out last month.
So, let take this out of the realm of pure opinion (mine included) and at least run some numbers, shall we?

A Kestrel has a temp sensor located outside of a housing, so it can cool down fast once waved or spun.

It is my assumption that weather-sealed devices have their temp sensor buried inside the device, hopefully somewhat sealed away from any electronic heat.

If this is correct, I then assume that the WMLRF, in this case, heats up like a car’s interior. A secondary assumption is there is no fancy software way to minimize what we’re calling solar loading.

Here is a link that talks about the heating that takes place inside a car’s interior:

Screenshot:
1741374453161.png

Notice that the interior heats up the fastest in the first 30 minutes; avg of 1°F a minute.

Ok, taking their example, it’s 90°F out and you’ve left the gun in the sun for 90 minutes. It’s now 138°F inside the WMLRF.

At 800 yds, according to Strelok, my vertical hold is now .5mil off, and my left-right 8mph wind hold is .2mil off. See attachments for details.

Now I may be totally wrong on how the temp sensors work inside weather-sealed devices. I might have done something else wrong. And this is a more extreme example. But there is no great way to cool off your WMLRF or even binos in this scenario.

Remember, the temp sensor is sealed inside a bino/WMLRF (I assume) whereas the Kestrel is out in the open.

Again, I MIGHT BE TOTALLY WRONG YOU BONEHEADS. Lol

But at least bring some facts to the table?
 

Attachments

  • 80B71B6E-36B3-4BB4-AB02-1D2A36DCFB30.jpeg
    80B71B6E-36B3-4BB4-AB02-1D2A36DCFB30.jpeg
    188 KB · Views: 19
  • 23735DBF-3D7B-480F-ADCE-AF4D9995D379.jpeg
    23735DBF-3D7B-480F-ADCE-AF4D9995D379.jpeg
    188 KB · Views: 18
  • Like
Reactions: skyewalker
So, let take this out of the realm of pure opinion (mine included) and at least run some numbers, shall we?

A Kestrel has a temp sensor located outside of a housing, so it can cool down fast once waved or spun.

It is my assumption that weather-sealed devices have their temp sensor buried inside the device, hopefully somewhat sealed away from any electronic heat.

If this is correct, I then assume that the WMLRF, in this case, heats up like a car’s interior. A secondary assumption is there is no fancy software way to minimize what we’re calling solar loading.

Here is a link that talks about the heating that takes place inside a car’s interior:

Screenshot:
View attachment 8634810
Notice that the interior heats up the fastest in the first 30 minutes; avg of 1°F a minute.

Ok, taking their example, it’s 90°F out and you’ve left the gun in the sun for 90 minutes. It’s now 138°F inside the WMLRF.

At 800 yds, according to Strelok, my vertical hold is now .5mil off, and my left-right 8mph wind hold is .2mil off. See attachments for details.

Now I may be totally wrong on how the temp sensors work inside weather-sealed devices. I might have done something else wrong. And this is a more extreme example. But there is no great way to cool off your WMLRF or even binos in this scenario.

Remember, the temp sensor is sealed inside a bino/WMLRF (I assume) whereas the Kestrel is out in the open.

Again, I MIGHT BE TOTALLY WRONG YOU BONEHEADS. Lol

But at least bring some facts to the table?

Wtf???

The facts are that the sun heats things. You can lock and/ or manually enter the temperature in an impact and a kestrel to avoid thermal drifting. Just like I told you a week ago.
 
So, let take this out of the realm of pure opinion (mine included) and at least run some numbers, shall we?

A Kestrel has a temp sensor located outside of a housing, so it can cool down fast once waved or spun.

It is my assumption that weather-sealed devices have their temp sensor buried inside the device, hopefully somewhat sealed away from any electronic heat.

If this is correct, I then assume that the WMLRF, in this case, heats up like a car’s interior. A secondary assumption is there is no fancy software way to minimize what we’re calling solar loading.

Here is a link that talks about the heating that takes place inside a car’s interior:

Screenshot:
View attachment 8634810
Notice that the interior heats up the fastest in the first 30 minutes; avg of 1°F a minute.

Ok, taking their example, it’s 90°F out and you’ve left the gun in the sun for 90 minutes. It’s now 138°F inside the WMLRF.

At 800 yds, according to Strelok, my vertical hold is now .5mil off, and my left-right 8mph wind hold is .2mil off. See attachments for details.

Now I may be totally wrong on how the temp sensors work inside weather-sealed devices. I might have done something else wrong. And this is a more extreme example. But there is no great way to cool off your WMLRF or even binos in this scenario.

Remember, the temp sensor is sealed inside a bino/WMLRF (I assume) whereas the Kestrel is out in the open.

Again, I MIGHT BE TOTALLY WRONG YOU BONEHEADS. Lol

But at least bring some facts to the table?
I am aware of solar loading when there is sun and I agree that the Kestrel can better control for those things with a mostly sealed device by having an exposed temperature sensor that can be normalized by spinning it in ambient air.

The counterpoint more so is that there could be a design that addresses these constraints. I get that aspirational ideas are not well liked. But for example, getting a temperature from a sensor on a kestrel drop or your binos is probably not going to be that far off. Integrate a sensor design into the device for that. Otherwise this is mostly a redundant accessary that could better be replaced by a workflow with laser rangefinding binos Linked tm to a Kestrel 5700.
 
I am aware of solar loading when there is sun and I agree that the Kestrel can better control for those things with a mostly sealed device by having an exposed temperature sensor that can be normalized by spinning it in ambient air.

The counterpoint more so is that there could be a design that addresses these constraints. I get that aspirational ideas are not well liked. But for example, getting a temperature from a sensor on a kestrel drop or your binos is probably not going to be that far off. Integrate a sensor design into the device for that. Otherwise this is mostly a redundant accessary that could better be replaced by a workflow with laser rangefinding binos Linked tm to a Kestrel 5700.
Good point. I think I originally said something along the lines of “this certainly isn’t the end all be all device”, because that already exists and is north of 10k and is FDA regulated if you catch my drift.

I view this as an option to grab with a kestrel instead of my RF binos with sensors in them. Different situations will dictate what I bring that day. I like options. Especially cheap options, because this paired with a kestrel is still less money than 10k GenII’s or Vectronix.
 
But for example, getting a temperature from a sensor on a kestrel drop or your binos is probably not going to be that far off. Integrate a sensor design into the device for that.
Ok, so explain that a bit further, if you wouldn’t mind. A pair of binos could be affected by solar (or body heat) loading as well.

I’m not talking about aspirational desires; sure, I totally get that. I am talking about this product, in the here and now, versus other current products.

Here are some facts or personal experiences that I’d like to hear about:

Other people that own the Mars unit or the Impact 4000 or LRF binoculars with temp sensors: set them out in strong sunlight and see how the temp is affected in 30 minute increments up to 90 minutes. Give us pics.

Give us documentation from these unit’s instructions about how the device handles solar loading.

Give us specific numbers and examples of how some other factor will minimize solar loading. Emphasis on extremely specific, etc.

@Scott_at_Vortex care to comment as to how solar loading affects the sensors ia your LRF binos and WMLRF? Mitigation?

@SkyScrapin how about you? I believe you have access to a bunch of high-end WMLRF, although you seem to focus on night hunting.

I have no ego in this discussion. I just put forth a theory, and am interested as to how things work. I’m not here to put other people down. (I’m ignoring Maury, btw, b/c he’s unpleasant. No idea what he’s spouting.)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: skyewalker
Ok, so explain that a bit further, if you wouldn’t mind. A pair of binos could be affected by solar (or body heat) loading as well.

I’m not talking about aspirational desires; sure, I totally get that. I am talking about this product, in the here and now, versus other current products.

Here are some facts or personal experiences that I’d like to hear about:

Other people that own the Mars unit or the Impact 4000 or LRF binoculars with temp sensors: set them out in strong sunlight and see how the temp is affected in 30 minute increments up to 90 minutes. Give us pics.

Give us documentation from these unit’s instructions about how the device handles solar loading.

Give us specific numbers and examples of how some other factor will minimize solar loading. Emphasis on extremely specific, etc.

@Scott_at_Vortex care to comment as to how solar loading affects the sensors ia your LRF binos and WMLRF? Mitigation?

@SkyScrapin how about you? I believe you have access to a bunch of high-end WMLRF, although you seem to focus on night hunting.

I have no ego in this discussion. I just put forth a theory, and am interested as to how things work. I’m not here to put other people down. (I’m ignoring Maury, btw, b/c he’s unpleasant. No idea what he’s spouting.)
I am talking about that.

My normal workflow is with a Kestrel, distances from a not linked laser rangefinder binos. I also link my Kestrel to the Quantam app now that the old version is gone. It would be nice not have to juggle all this. Even then most of my shooting is known distance, it's the unknown distance/not competition I am most interested in.

To your point the Raptar S manual talks about verifying temperatures and warns about solar loading 4x.
 
Ok, so explain that a bit further, if you wouldn’t mind. A pair of binos could be affected by solar (or body heat) loading as well.

I’m not talking about aspirational desires; sure, I totally get that. I am talking about this product, in the here and now, versus other current products.

Here are some facts or personal experiences that I’d like to hear about:

Other people that own the Mars unit or the Impact 4000 or LRF binoculars with temp sensors: set them out in strong sunlight and see how the temp is affected in 30 minute increments up to 90 minutes. Give us pics.

Give us documentation from these unit’s instructions about how the device handles solar loading.

Give us specific numbers and examples of how some other factor will minimize solar loading. Emphasis on extremely specific, etc.

@Scott_at_Vortex care to comment as to how solar loading affects the sensors ia your LRF binos and WMLRF? Mitigation?

@SkyScrapin how about you? I believe you have access to a bunch of high-end WMLRF, although you seem to focus on night hunting.

I have no ego in this discussion. I just put forth a theory, and am interested as to how things work. I’m not here to put other people down. (I’m ignoring Maury, btw, b/c he’s unpleasant. No idea what he’s spouting.)

Your theory that the sun warms things? I already told you three ways to prevent this phenomena entering you’re shooting solution that you think you’ve discovered for the first time in 2025
 
To your point the Raptar S manual talks about verifying temperatures and warns about solar loading 4x.
I assume you mean the manual brings up the topic four times, and not that the temp could get 4x hotter inside the unit than ambient temp lol.

Perhaps that’s where part of the pushback against the Fire4000 in this thread is coming from; group A says it’s no big deal that there’s no weather sensors included (considering only current tech), and others think that means group A doesn’t see an advantage to having those sensors in any future scenario.

If that “talking past each other” is indeed the case, I definitely would love weather sensors in a WMLRF or LRF bino. But I’d only pay more for them if manufacturers can figure out a way to make those sensors largely immune to solar loading (and the like).

Because if you start a hunt at 5000ft, cloudy, and 80°F, you could be in a position to shoot at 10,000ft, sunny, and 50°F a few days later. And I’ll have my Kestrel with me anyway for wind.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skyewalker
I assume you mean the manual brings up the topic four times, and not that the temp could get 4x hotter inside the unit than ambient temp lol.

Perhaps that’s where part of the pushback against the Fire4000 in this thread is coming from; group A says it’s no big deal that there’s no weather sensors included (considering only current tech), and others think that means group A doesn’t see an advantage to having those sensors in any future scenario.

If that “talking past each other” is indeed the case, I definitely would love weather sensors in a WMLRF or LRF bino. But I’d only pay more for them if manufacturers can figure out a way to make those sensors largely immune to solar loading (and the like).

Because if you start a hunt at 5000ft, cloudy, and 80°F, you could be in a position to shoot at 10,000ft, sunny, and 50°F a few days later. And I’ll have my Kestrel with me anyway for wind.
Yes, Wilcox is basically warning the user on four different pages that solar loading can/will give the wrong ambient temperature reading.

I understand your other points.
 
  • Like
Reactions: carbonbased
So you can program the ABI mode using only a kestrel, no need to use the phone App?

I understand that in ABE the device is using the kestrel/garmin/whatever as an external ballistic solver, and so would be able to use however many profiles are stored on the kestrel by simply selecting a different gun (I think I have that right).

If you're not replacing a single profile in the device each time you switch to a different gun, how many profiles will the device hold in it's internal memory?
Interested in clarity to this as well. I completely get that in ABE mode the rangefinder is just getting a range, sending the info to the Kestrel, then displaying the calculation on the FIRE4000. My question is how do I get the unit to hold that profile (from the kestrel) and external environmental settings (from the Kestrel) after the kestrel is shut off. I would like to only use the Kestrel. Not interested in using my phone/app to push information. Don't mind pushing the info periodically with the Kestrel, but how do I get the unit to hold my Kestrel's profile? Does it have to be connected in ABE all the time? It seems like ABI has to be setup through the Phone App and push a profile to the unit (Enviro, Angle etc...included) from your phone. Can I use my Kestrel to push the same info in ABI, and have the FIRE4000 hold the Kestrel's profile? Then shut the kestrel down, go shooting using the FIRE4000 in ABI, and then reconnect with the Kestrel in a few hours to push new enviros? Any info clearing this up would be great.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tx_Aggie
Interested in clarity to this as well. I completely get that in ABE mode the rangefinder is just getting a range, sending the info to the Kestrel, then displaying the calculation on the FIRE4000. My question is how do I get the unit to hold that profile (from the kestrel) and external environmental settings (from the Kestrel) after the kestrel is shut off. I would like to only use the Kestrel. Not interested in using my phone/app to push information. Don't mind pushing the info periodically with the Kestrel, but how do I get the unit to hold my Kestrel's profile? Does it have to be connected in ABE all the time? It seems like ABI has to be setup through the Phone App and push a profile to the unit (Enviro, Angle etc...included) from your phone. Can I use my Kestrel to push the same info in ABI, and have the FIRE4000 hold the Kestrel's profile? Then shut the kestrel down, go shooting using the FIRE4000 in ABI, and then reconnect with the Kestrel in a few hours to push new enviros? Any info clearing this up would be great.
Good question, I’ll check this out later and let you know. If I had to guess based on what I know so far, once you go back to ABI it will revert to the last thing that phone had pushed to the device. There’s no way to communicate Kestrel info to the BOSS app either as far as I know, you’d have to punch any info in manually on the BOSS to match what kestrel gave you. But let me confirm and I’ll edit this response as appropriate.
 
Good question, I’ll check this out later and let you know. If I had to guess based on what I know so far, once you go back to ABI it will revert to the last thing that phone had pushed to the device. There’s no way to communicate Kestrel info to the BOSS app either as far as I know, you’d have to punch any info in manually on the BOSS to match what kestrel gave you. But let me confirm and I’ll edit this response as appropriate.
I wonder what will change once the BOSS app is rolled up into Quantum? Since Quantum can communicate with both devices?
 
So what's the consensus on using these in cold weather? I see it's rated to 14° while Vortex says the Impact is rated to 4°, although I have had a lot of issues with the screen at higher temperatures than that.

Liking the idea of a wired remote as my Impact one constantly disconnects.
 
Mine arrived a day earlier than expected. Threw a battery in, got it mounted and fired it up. First impressions are very good. It feels very well made. The display is crisp and bright (despite my picture). The buttons on the unit are not mushy at all. I’ll spend the next few days to try and get familiar with it until I can squeeze in a range day.

View attachment 8614943View attachment 8614944
@boomslang which diving board is that? The standard or low?
 
We found an interesting 'glitch' over the weekend. We have been able to replicate it on 2 different Tango's, multiple times.

If you press and hold the remote or onboard range button long enough to feel the vibrate, after 2-3 consecutive ranges, the unit will stop updating the dope...range works, but dope is locked up. If you press and immediately release the remote or onboard range button, no issues at all. This is in ABI mode. It's hard to tell on ABE, as the dope takes so long to get from Kestrel to the unit, it powers off.

My teammate was having problems with his not updating dope. Once we got together in person (he lives in another state), I was able to figure it out, by dumb-luck. I don't have the vibrate function turned on on my unit, so it was impossible for me to get my unit to screw up. However, once we got his to do it multiple times, I tried mine and sure enough, same thing.

We contacted Tango about this. I would assume they will be working on a update to fix the glitch.

It's not really a "problem", per say, if you push and release the button. But, like my teammate said, in his mind, the purpose for the vibrate function was to let him know the range was successful without looking at the unit. So, I guess I can see his point.
 
We found an interesting 'glitch' over the weekend. We have been able to replicate it on 2 different Tango's, multiple times.

If you press and hold the remote or onboard range button long enough to feel the vibrate, after 2-3 consecutive ranges, the unit will stop updating the dope...range works, but dope is locked up. If you press and immediately release the remote or onboard range button, no issues at all. This is in ABI mode. It's hard to tell on ABE, as the dope takes so long to get from Kestrel to the unit, it powers off.

My teammate was having problems with his not updating dope. Once we got together in person (he lives in another state), I was able to figure it out, by dumb-luck. I don't have the vibrate function turned on on my unit, so it was impossible for me to get my unit to screw up. However, once we got his to do it multiple times, I tried mine and sure enough, same thing.

We contacted Tango about this. I would assume they will be working on a update to fix the glitch.

It's not really a "problem", per say, if you push and release the button. But, like my teammate said, in his mind, the purpose for the vibrate function was to let him know the range was successful without looking at the unit. So, I guess I can see his point.
Interesting. I've been testing mine but haven't noticed that, but I also haven't specifically done that sequence of events. I'll have to test and see if mine does it.

Has anyone had an issue with the actual range accuracy? When I look at the range card for my home range and use the Tango, the LRF gives me anywhere from 2 to 7 yards farther than the target actually is. I can confirm with my Vortex Fury binos that the distances from the Tango show farther each time. And I am certain the Tango is hitting the target because it was dusk and I had the viz laser turned on so I was sure it was hitting the target and not the backdrop.
 
Interesting. I've been testing mine but haven't noticed that, but I also haven't specifically done that sequence of events. I'll have to test and see if mine does it.

Has anyone had an issue with the actual range accuracy? When I look at the range card for my home range and use the Tango, the LRF gives me anywhere from 2 to 7 yards farther than the target actually is. I can confirm with my Vortex Fury binos that the distances from the Tango show farther each time. And I am certain the Tango is hitting the target because it was dusk and I had the viz laser turned on so I was sure it was hitting the target and not the backdrop.
Have you zero’d the actual IR laser? It could just be your vis being misaligned with the IR. I use skylined thin objects (powerlines/stadium lights etc), has to be skylined that way if it hits you know it’s on, if you don’t get a range you’re obviously off.

Like I had mentioned I had a 2yd consistent discrepancy between my handheld and the tango but that’s not enough for me to say which one is wrong
 
Have you zero’d the actual IR laser? It could just be your vis being misaligned with the IR. I use skylined thin objects (powerlines/stadium lights etc), has to be skylined that way if it hits you know it’s on, if you don’t get a range you’re obviously off.

Like I had mentioned I had a 2yd consistent discrepancy between my handheld and the tango but that’s not enough for me to say which one is wrong
Zero the IR laser? It was my understanding that the viz laser is slaved to the IR and that's how you zero both? I'm pretty sure that's the case otherwise how would you zero it?
 
Zero the IR laser? It was my understanding that the viz laser is slaved to the IR and that's how you zero both? I'm pretty sure that's the case otherwise how would you zero it?
It’s slaved, doesn’t mean they’re always perfectly aligned. Just like your handheld rangefinders aren’t ever perfectly aligned with the reticle inside. Point at a skylined object (thinner the better) and find your vertical and horizontal offset
 
It’s slaved, doesn’t mean they’re always perfectly aligned. Just like your handheld rangefinders aren’t ever perfectly aligned with the reticle inside. Point at a skylined object (thinner the better) and find your vertical and horizontal offset
Interesting, I doubt that would cause my issue because the steel animal targets I was testing on were pretty large, the deviation from viz to IR would have to be pretty huge. But I will test this out anyway next chance I get on a light pole or similar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skyewalker
Mine is consistently 5 yrds off, when compared to 2 LRF binos (Sig 3K and Sig 6K)....this tested on ranging skylined power pole transformers from 250-1200yrds. (I also tested this at a recent ELR match I MD'd, out to 1760y. WMLRF read 1765, while others read 1760.)

Not really a big deal, IMO, as the range is just a number. Meaning, if I cal my MV with this LRF, it is calibrated to this gun. Regardless if it's 1200 or 1205, as long as I cal my MV to the range I hit with the WMLRF, that's all that matters.
 
Mine is consistently 5 yrds off, when compared to 2 LRF binos (Sig 3K and Sig 6K)....this tested on ranging skylined power pole transformers from 250-1200yrds. (I also tested this at a recent ELR match I MD'd, out to 1760y. WMLRF read 1765, while others read 1760.)

Not really a big deal, IMO, as the range is just a number. Meaning, if I cal my MV with this LRF, it is calibrated to this gun. Regardless if it's 1200 or 1205, as long as I cal my MV to the range I hit with the WMLRF, that's all that matters.
Glad I'm not the only one, mine is also pretty consistently 5 yards further than the target really is. It's not a huge problem, but I don't calibrate my MVs like that. I just pull the true MV from my Garmin and use AB custom curves, so I would really prefer that it not be that far off. Will have to do more testing to confirm.
 
Anyone have any issues with the silver plug getting in the way of their turret? It seems to stick out a bit and I wasn't sure if it got in the way of dialing.
Missed this earlier.. if you’re dialing then you’re inducing offset to the WMLRF even though I’m sure you know that. Range and hold is what I do but I imagine you can just push the tango further up on the clif rail to solve that problem or mount it on a side rail out of the way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JBattles
Missed this earlier.. if you’re dialing then you’re inducing offset to the WMLRF even though I’m sure you know that. Range and hold is what I do but I imagine you can just push the tango further up on the clif rail to solve that problem or mount it on a side rail out of the way.
I have a Tango that arrived today so I hope I can push it forward enough on my Vortex diving board to use the turret easily.

With the Impact I find holding under to be easy to do if I want to range while dialled, there is no need to dial back to zero. I wouldn't buy a scope that didn't have a reticle that allowed you to do that. Also handy in matches for "confirmation" targets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skyewalker
20250404_191427.jpg


So I haven't had the chance to really use it but just setting it up a few things stood out to me.

The screen quality is waaaaay better than the Impact. That said it is a bit cluttered and I wish there was the option to turn off flight time and velocity and get a larger firing solution displayed but it's still much easier to read than the Gameboy one.

I like that it does not need active Bluetooth syncing to use the weather data and other information given by the app. You set it and it stays that way, no compass or other sensors changing things. If I jump out of a warm vehicle on a cold day to take a shot at something I don't want to have to wait who knows how long for the density altitude to adjust itself or mess around trying to re-sync with my phone.

That said I really wish it had the option to turn off crosswind jump. I always leave my wind set at 10mph/3:00 and use fractions of that for my hold. If crosswind/aerodynamic jump is added to the elevation the firing solution may be off considerably more than if no vertical correction is factored in at all depending on wind direction. I'm not going to be constantly updating my wind direction with the app every time my rifle or the wind shifts direction, I got this for quick firing solutions, so it would be nice to toggle it off if desired.

The 3/10/15 minute shutoff times are great for hunting or NRL stages. The small remote is nice, gives more placement options. I like that it is corded compared to the Impact Bluetooth unit which needs a battery and has to be turned on and reconnected every minute or so or before it will work.

Not being an engineer I don't know why the connector plug is so complicated when all it has to do is send one type of signal. The manual warns the remote plug is fragile and a 90° connector would also be a big improvement to give more clearance for elevation and parallax knobs and to protect the cable and plug. I understand they're working on that.

The buttons are a huge improvement over the Impact where the most important button was the smallest and hardest to press. The power button on this is even slightly elevated so it's easy to find by feel. That said I wish it powered on with a quick press instead of press and hold.

The manual says to avoid lasing very reflective targets or close targets to avoid damage. I am not sure if this is because this unit is especially susceptible to damage or if all LRFs are and they just had the presence of mind to warn the customer. I often lase stuff across the room when adjusting displays and what not. I hope I don't wreck it.


That's just my long winded initial opinion of it, which isn't worth much.
 
Last edited:
but it's still much easier to read than the Gameboy one.
Lol! Gameboy!

That's just my long winded initial opinion of it, which isn't worth much.
You’re selling yourself short.

The after-hunt reports and other reviews that you write up are always golden, man! And you’re one of the few with an actual sense of humor. Rare around these parts.

(Just know I joke around a lot and am never making fun of you, but some other part of the situation. Like a turn of phrase, a small but funny bit of a pic, etc.)

Keep on keeping on!
 
Lol! Gameboy!


You’re selling yourself short.

The after-hunt reports and other reviews that you write up are always golden, man! And you’re one of the few with an actual sense of humor. Rare around these parts.

(Just know I joke around a lot and am never making fun of you, but some other part of the situation. Like a turn of phrase, a small but funny bit of a pic, etc.)

Keep on keeping on!
Well thank you, I appreciate that. I often think I'm funnier than I actually am but I try not to take things too seriously.
 
  • Like
Reactions: carbonbased
It is pretty stupid that it doesn't come with environmental sensors. No, I don't want yet another thing to hang on my rifle that is dependent on my phone or kestrel.

AB being reactive to this criticism online is a pretty shitty look.

You can't make an accurate temperature sensor work. <Ignores the Impact 4000, Mars Lc, Wilcox Raptar>

I'm going to laugh at all the defensive nut hanging if the new Sig WLRF comes with AB and environmental sensors.
Why We Chose Simplicity Over Complexity with the FIRE 4000 LRF

1 Everything You Need, Right Up Front

We designed the FIRE 4000 LRF with all functions accessible from the top level—no digging through complicated menus on a tiny screen. This keeps it fast and intuitive, so you can focus on the shot, not the setup.

2 Push Complexity to Your Phone

Why cram complex features into a small device when your phone or a Kestrel can handle them better? By connecting to a device with a bigger screen and smarter interface, you get a smoother experience without cluttering the LRF itself.

3 Environmental Sensors? Here’s Why We Skipped Them

◦ Temperature sensors inside a weapon-mounted LRF can’t be trusted due to solar heat and poor airflow—shooters already use external tools like a Kestrel for accuracy.

◦ Pressure matters, but it’s stable enough and easily pulled from your phone or Kestrel in seconds.

◦ Humidity? It barely affects most shots, so it’s not worth the hassle.

You’re already carrying these tools—let them do the heavy lifting.

4 Simplicity Saves Time and Hassle

Updating environmental data (like temperature every couple of hours) takes 10-20 seconds on a phone—way faster than navigating onboard menus. Plus, you get guaranteed accurate values from devices built for the job.

Why This Matters

Simplicity means reliability and speed. We stripped away unnecessary complexity so the FIRE 4000 LRF does what it’s meant to do—range targets quickly and accurately—while letting your phone or Kestrel handle the rest. It’s a no-nonsense tool that fits how shooters actually work.
 
Thank you for your reply. So in this case it's a useless device.
Why We Chose Simplicity Over Complexity with the FIRE 4000 LRF

1 Everything You Need, Right Up Front

We designed the FIRE 4000 LRF with all functions accessible from the top level—no digging through complicated menus on a tiny screen. This keeps it fast and intuitive, so you can focus on the shot, not the setup.

2 Push Complexity to Your Phone

Why cram complex features into a small device when your phone or a Kestrel can handle them better? By connecting to a device with a bigger screen and smarter interface, you get a smoother experience without cluttering the LRF itself.

3 Environmental Sensors? Here’s Why We Skipped Them

◦ Temperature sensors inside a weapon-mounted LRF can’t be trusted due to solar heat and poor airflow—shooters already use external tools like a Kestrel for accuracy.

◦ Pressure matters, but it’s stable enough and easily pulled from your phone or Kestrel in seconds.

◦ Humidity? It barely affects most shots, so it’s not worth the hassle.

You’re already carrying these tools—let them do the heavy lifting.

4 Simplicity Saves Time and Hassle

Updating environmental data (like temperature every couple of hours) takes 10-20 seconds on a phone—way faster than navigating onboard menus. Plus, you get guaranteed accurate values from devices built for the job.

Why This Matters

Simplicity means reliability and speed. We stripped away unnecessary complexity so the FIRE 4000 LRF does what it’s meant to do—range targets quickly and accurately—while letting your phone or Kestrel handle the rest. It’s a no-nonsense tool that fits how shooters actually work.
 
I’ll take along the kestrel, even the most expensive kestrel along with this is still FAR cheaper than a Wilcox. My only concern so far is the inclination seems to be read from the phone and not the LRF itself.
Hey just to provide some clarity here. Inclination is driven be the device and communicated by the device that has priority. That said you can input dirty data into the device by incorrectly using your phone. But one you laze your first target it’s back to using the inclination of whatever your target is at from the FIRE.