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Target interpretation help.
- Thread starter kaskin
- Start date
I also took a look at the Redding body die. Seems like i never set the locking ring, which means... I haven't set it up yet.. further meaning, it's all been done with the Lee Neck sizing collet die. All this brass was prepped a long time ago, so, i don't remember every detail.. However, the annealing machine is running as i type. Next up, measuring and trimming then, ... on to the neck sizer only?
Only if you're shooting benchrest -- and even they will full-length size and trim when extraction gets tough.
Just checked my records on this rifle. Headspace @ -.002" is 1.627. All the brass i have ready to load and the ones fired yesterday are at 1.627 - 1.628". When i did bump the shoulder, my notes called for Redding shell holder @ +.010.
Brass seems to be uniform. Removed that variable from the mix.
Brass seems to be uniform. Removed that variable from the mix.
First off, can the Magnetospeed and attachment as they may be a source of the problem. You say 20" SPS but I'm not aware of any 20" barrels other than the Tactical model. What is the diameter of the barrel at the muzzle?
I'm also curious to the vintage of the rifle. What are the first three letters/numbers of the S/N and can you date it per the following link:
RR140xxx. It is indeed the tactical model. 0.865" at the muzzle.
The magneto speed is the only way i have to get speed data.
I can try and run another test without it and see if some of the " questions " go away...?
I'm thinking of making a batch at 44.9 grn at current seating depth. Then, start loading 4 at a time in .003 jumps ok?
yes / no?
The magneto speed is the only way i have to get speed data.
I can try and run another test without it and see if some of the " questions " go away...?
I'm thinking of making a batch at 44.9 grn at current seating depth. Then, start loading 4 at a time in .003 jumps ok?
yes / no?
Yes.
Why is the magnetospeed mounting an issue? I skipped a bullet off my magnetospeed and it hit the target sideways.
Why is the magnetospeed mounting an issue? I skipped a bullet off my magnetospeed and it hit the target sideways.
did a little reading on seating depth adjustments and the consensus is .010 - .020 increments... So, in light of that, I'm going to make 3 sets of rounds (5 ea.) with a jump of .014" between them.
Original: COAL: 2.782" = CBTO: 2.182
The new series will take us out to max SAAMI @ COAL: 2.810"
This should provide some insight? yes / no?
Original: COAL: 2.782" = CBTO: 2.182
The new series will take us out to max SAAMI @ COAL: 2.810"
This should provide some insight? yes / no?
I used to use a lee collet die on my 300winmag but I could feel the difference in seating pressure when seating bullets. I got away from it and my issues went away. I know some have good luck doing it the way you are with the body die lee collet combo, maybe I was just doing it wrong. I went to bushing dies and and now I set neck tension with a mandrel.
I'd ditch the crimp also. No real need for it in your case, unless...
I've had a couple cases like yours, being limited to mag length and a combination of components that I just had to make work. Mostly in ar's. Once I settled on the load, I would use a crimp die and increase the crimp .001-.002" at a time and see what it did. In most cases I would find an acceptable result around .003-.004"
To my surprise, sd usually came down and groups consistently held under 1 moa when they had been in the 1.5-2 moa range.
Try the magnetospeed direct on the barrel. Mine never made any of my rifles shoot bad. May have had a slight poi shift but I never worried about that on load development. I even mounted mine to my suppressor.
I'd ditch the crimp also. No real need for it in your case, unless...
I've had a couple cases like yours, being limited to mag length and a combination of components that I just had to make work. Mostly in ar's. Once I settled on the load, I would use a crimp die and increase the crimp .001-.002" at a time and see what it did. In most cases I would find an acceptable result around .003-.004"
To my surprise, sd usually came down and groups consistently held under 1 moa when they had been in the 1.5-2 moa range.
Try the magnetospeed direct on the barrel. Mine never made any of my rifles shoot bad. May have had a slight poi shift but I never worried about that on load development. I even mounted mine to my suppressor.
I think you'll find your load tweaking seating depth. I probably watched to many F class and benchrest reloading videos, but I do my seating depth test .003-.006" at a time.
If i can't get this recipe figured out, i may purchase a different seating die. Funny you say that about neck tension. My notes say .002-.003- crimp when i made the first rounds.
The magneto speed made the poi shift and open up quite a bit on this rifle... That's what prompted the different mounting style. I'll have to try it again with it on the barrel. Honestly, i've been frustrated with this rifle and finding a good load. Some days it shot great, some days not so much... It occurred to me it may be me, but it doesn't explain how i can shoot other rifles just fine on the same day... Maybe this was Friday afternoon on Monday morning rifle off the line. or maybe the nut behind the trigger... LOL
The magneto speed made the poi shift and open up quite a bit on this rifle... That's what prompted the different mounting style. I'll have to try it again with it on the barrel. Honestly, i've been frustrated with this rifle and finding a good load. Some days it shot great, some days not so much... It occurred to me it may be me, but it doesn't explain how i can shoot other rifles just fine on the same day... Maybe this was Friday afternoon on Monday morning rifle off the line. or maybe the nut behind the trigger... LOL
Go through your bolt. Pull it down and inspect everything. If it has the J lock firing pin assembly toss it and get a complete pin assembly from Gretan.
I read a post here from LRI about going through the fire control on the 700's. In some of his posts he was describing the issues I was having to a T. He uses a 27/64" chucking reamer to make sure there is no interference with the firing pin and bolt body. (In my case there was) Check the fit between the bolt shroud and firing pin also. You don't want any drag there. No coil binding on the spring either. There are some things you can do to the shroud to improve it but it requires a lathe. Cortina precision sells some modified shrouds also.
I say all that because I had a problem 700 of my own. Chased my tail with it off an on for years. Had it rebarreled three times. When the third barrel presented the same issues I started digging in here and on youtube. After sorting the issues out, the same ammo that struggled to consistently shoot .75 moa shot a .3xx. I've gone through the fire control on all my 700's now and it improved every one of them.
I have a MagnetoSpeed v3 that I mount on a carbon fiber rod attached the the hand guard so that I don't have to mount it onto the barrel. One of the things I figured out was that when I mount it according to instruction, the groups were moved up from where they'd be without the MagnetoSpeed being there and that was due to the effects of the shock wave from the bullet acting on the surface of the bayonet. I found I could adjust the bayonet lower than the recommendation to mitigate this effect, but to be sure to get a good consistent reading I had to turn up the sensitivity. I don't know if you can do that with the Sporter, but if you can, you might try that.
I appreciate all the help gents. I didn’t even know this was a thing. Now that I think about it, it makes sense. Time to take that rascal apart and look.
Make sure it's clean and clear inside the body. The bolt heads are soldered on and excess solder can be inside the bolt causing a problem. That was the case on my long action 700. The chucking reamer in a drill fixed it. All my other bolts were good in that regard. One had a J lock assembly, the other had a spring binding on the firing pin.
Disassemble the pin assembly and make sure there is no drag on the spring/pin and the pin should slip through the shroud with no resistance also.
