I have all my offsets on Badger J-arms. It rolls just the same and feels seemless to me.
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Yeah I like this setup when shooting pigs… usually over bait at a known distance, usually between 75-150 or so yards. I really like the offset BUiS or red dot for pop up targets …usually when walking to the blind, or searching for runners in the scrub brush we call vegetation here in Tejas Hill Country.
I do have a couple with the red dot mounted at 12 O’Clock ; for the same reasons you list, primarily for shooting with NVGs.
This one will almost certainly get the red dot moved to a 45* offset once I get the ROF mount anodized ODG:
…but this one will always have the 12 OClock mount of course:
It is the Die Free Company (DFCO) kung fu grip. Cheesy name but it is a very nice grip, although with my size 11 hands it could be a bit longer but the shape and angle is perfect.
Used to have RDS mounted on 45deg with LPVO. However, after transitioning to skyscraper tall optics with mounts such as GBRS Hydra, I have moved them to 12 o'clock. My personal reasoning is that I want to keep my stance and head position the same across the board for pistol and carbine (or longer than a carbine, but taking shots in situations normally taken with a carbine).
I.E. when I need to use RDS, it's almost never going to be from a precision rifle position (prone, barricade, tripod, etc). It's likely going to be when moving or similar. Same for nvg use. I want to be able to do the exact same (or very close) thing when I'm not using nvg as when I am using nvg.
Essentially, this increases efficiency for training, which in turn translates to higher success in the field. It doesn't matter if I'm using nvg with pistol or rifle, or not using nvg with pistol or rifle, LPVO or RDS.....doesn't matter. Rifle comes up to same position, head stays in same position, body remains upright and "heads up."
Now, this does mean that I end up using the LPVO far less down on 1x and such and using the RDS more often in situations I would have used the LPVO in the past. Some may argue they want to use the LPVO as much as possible to get the most out of their investment, as well as other reasons. Which are perfectly valid.
The TLDR version: I now keep an RDS at 12 o'clock on LPVO and only use the LPVO when I have time and opportunity to get into a precision position. Which, if I'm running an LPVO, that means my primary use (or at least a very large % of use) will afford me that opportunity. Otherwise I'll just run an RDS + Magnifier.
I.E. when I need to use RDS, it's almost never going to be from a precision rifle position (prone, barricade, tripod, etc). It's likely going to be when moving or similar. Same for nvg use. I want to be able to do the exact same (or very close) thing when I'm not using nvg as when I am using nvg.
Essentially, this increases efficiency for training, which in turn translates to higher success in the field. It doesn't matter if I'm using nvg with pistol or rifle, or not using nvg with pistol or rifle, LPVO or RDS.....doesn't matter. Rifle comes up to same position, head stays in same position, body remains upright and "heads up."
Now, this does mean that I end up using the LPVO far less down on 1x and such and using the RDS more often in situations I would have used the LPVO in the past. Some may argue they want to use the LPVO as much as possible to get the most out of their investment, as well as other reasons. Which are perfectly valid.
The TLDR version: I now keep an RDS at 12 o'clock on LPVO and only use the LPVO when I have time and opportunity to get into a precision position. Which, if I'm running an LPVO, that means my primary use (or at least a very large % of use) will afford me that opportunity. Otherwise I'll just run an RDS + Magnifier.
That may very well be, but it was a pretty bold statement. About like walking into a superbowl party and asking how many free throw goals have been hit.
It stood out.
Criterion chrome line 14.5" barrel living with a Sharps Bros. receiver set and Geissele MK 16 rail. TriggerTech Competition 3.5 LB trigger, Young Mfg. Ionbond DLC coated bolt carrier with fitted JP bolt. BCM MK 2 recoil system with T1 buffer. OSS/HUXWRX Flow 556K out front. The new BCM SOPMOD MK 2 stock is my new favorite. Both light in weight and with a great cheek weld.
To see how this barrel would perform, I installed a Nightforce 2.5-20x50 NX8 and shot some groups with FGMM 73 Berger ammo. It quickly settled down to 0.80 MOA five-shot groups by the first box. I need to put a decent LPVO on top of this.
To see how this barrel would perform, I installed a Nightforce 2.5-20x50 NX8 and shot some groups with FGMM 73 Berger ammo. It quickly settled down to 0.80 MOA five-shot groups by the first box. I need to put a decent LPVO on top of this.
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Got this BCM ELW 16" upper when I left Big Army in 2020 and been adding to it since, bought a real BCM lower in like '21 and got the SF Mini 2 approved in '22. Razor 1-6 on top, moved from a Badger J arm to the 12 o'clock mount for NV use which gives me room for a convenient brass catcher. Brass goblins hate this one little trick...
You'll notice a nice little bullseye on a gusty day at 600 yards... That is shot 2 out of 3, 1 and 3 are touching so I'm not sure where 2 got all that elevation from but we call it skill and leave it at that. The CMP range down in Talladega.
You'll notice a nice little bullseye on a gusty day at 600 yards... That is shot 2 out of 3, 1 and 3 are touching so I'm not sure where 2 got all that elevation from but we call it skill and leave it at that. The CMP range down in Talladega.
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Another round with the Mock 12 build.
I changed the grip to a B5 since last time. Need to break out the spraypaint...
New DMR rig just finished. Sharps Bros upper and lower receivers, Criterion Core 14.5" chrome lined barrel with fixed gas block, Geissele MK 16 rail and Maritime bolt release, PRI Gas Buster, Young MFG DLC coated BCG, TriggerTech Adaptive trigger set at 2.5 LB, BCM MK 2 recoil system with T1 buffer, Ergo monster grip, BCM SOPMOD Mk 2 stock, Nightforce ATACR 1-8x24 F1 in Scalarworks mount, Surefire Scout light in Arisaka mount, OSS/HUXWRX Flow 556K out front. Not yet installed are my MAWL-C1 and an Aimpoint P-2 in Arisaka mount. Shoots match grade ammo well under MOA.
First Post! Here's my latest...
IWI z15 Urban BDU Finish (awesome rifle)
Rise Armament RA-535 trigger
Lantac Enhanced BCG
BCA 18" Stainless Fluted Heavy Barrel - I hear a lot of hit and miss on these, but took the gamble. My only bitch was the threads were not cut all the way, but I fixed it with a die. Barrel shoots great and is pretty accurate otherwise. Looks great and I found no issues when scoping it.
Aero Precision Breech Charging Handle - I had to make it fit properly because they obviously throw the tolerances out with their finish. My original mil spec fit and a borrowed ambi-handle fit fine. It was the handle and I'm annoyed that a company with "Precision" in their name cant make a charge handle that fits.
Bushnell 4.5-18x40 Illuminated Optic - excellent for the money.
Fostech Titanium Brake - great felt recoil reduction and it looks cool.
Magpul Bipod
I love this rifle. Not a single failure when stock or in current form. I have about 100 rounds through it on the new barrel and I'm going to put a few hundred more through it this weekend.
IWI z15 Urban BDU Finish (awesome rifle)
Rise Armament RA-535 trigger
Lantac Enhanced BCG
BCA 18" Stainless Fluted Heavy Barrel - I hear a lot of hit and miss on these, but took the gamble. My only bitch was the threads were not cut all the way, but I fixed it with a die. Barrel shoots great and is pretty accurate otherwise. Looks great and I found no issues when scoping it.
Aero Precision Breech Charging Handle - I had to make it fit properly because they obviously throw the tolerances out with their finish. My original mil spec fit and a borrowed ambi-handle fit fine. It was the handle and I'm annoyed that a company with "Precision" in their name cant make a charge handle that fits.
Bushnell 4.5-18x40 Illuminated Optic - excellent for the money.
Fostech Titanium Brake - great felt recoil reduction and it looks cool.
Magpul Bipod
I love this rifle. Not a single failure when stock or in current form. I have about 100 rounds through it on the new barrel and I'm going to put a few hundred more through it this weekend.
I’ve installed literally dozens of Aero charging handles with zero issues…Anodized and Cerakoted. I’d send that one back if it’s out of spec.
What receiver set and hand guard?
Edit: Just looked it up; never heard of IWI as a commercial seller other than the Tavor.
Looks like they’re really expanding their offerings. Cool.
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Yeah, IWI is a pretty decent company. The AR is made in PA and in stock form everything was flawless. I spent a few minutes, oiled it up real good and cycled it a bunch. Then re-cleaned it as there was some black finish from the handle that wore down into the oil. It works good now. Receiver grooves are all clean.I’ve installed literally dozens of Aero charging handles with zero issues…Anodized and Cerakoted. I’d send that one back if it’s out of spec.
What receiver set and hand guard?
Edit: Just looked it up; never heard of IWI as a commercial seller other than the Tavor.
Looks like they’re really expanding their offerings. Cool.
I verified it wasn't bent with good machinist straight edges, and the Bolt and Gas tube are fine, a Milspec and my Lantac BCG both engage the gas tube and lock/unlock smoothly.
Receiver is factory IWI and the handguard is IWI branded Magpul mlok.
The Aero Precision handle has some diagonal serrations in the middle of the lever on the sides that I'm guessing are there to hold oil maybe...they were the problem, almost like those slash-cuts raised the surface of the metal a bit, or the cerakote was too thick. I dont see any aluminum on it just some spots that are now smooth on the handle.
It's not like it was locked up in there or anything, it was just harder to cycle than it should have been in the beginning.
I guess when I build my aero m5 and this happens I wont sweat it. If it doesnt happen, even better!
Geiselle URG-I 14.5 upper, B&T can, Sig 8T on a Ape Defense/ADM lower.
Picked up this Tessa Blue Geiselle Super Duty this week
Picked up this Tessa Blue Geiselle Super Duty this week
Ridgeline RD-15 16". Just got it a few weeks ago and it's been extremely precise. Looking forward to competing and teaching with it.
New super-light 6ARC on V Seven receiver set and rail with Proof 16" CF barrel. SLR adjustable gas block, HUXWRX brake, JP FMOS bolt carrier group, Geissele Super Charging Handle, TriggerTech Diamond trigger, BCM MK 2 recoil system, Kahles K318i with Aimpoint ACRO P-2 in Spuhr SP-4022C mount, and HUXWRX Flow 762 Ti. Basic rifle weighs 5 LB 14 OZ. 1000 yards??? Easy.
It's not as soft as my older BCM builds, but not over gassed at all. I'm going to play with springs and buffers a little more to see what it does. I ran it with a carbine spring and an H1 and H2, then switched to a blue spring and same buffers. Not really much difference. It could be the lack of weight on the front end where the gov profile is a little heavier in the front. So I am feeling it move different than what I am used to. It's the first tapered barrel I have owned outside of heavier SS and the stupid light BCM enhanced fluted.
Or maybe I have been shooting my zero recoil AK74 too much and forgot what an AR feels like.
Or maybe I have been shooting my zero recoil AK74 too much and forgot what an AR feels like.
Build list:
Upper:
Noveske Medium Varmint 20" stainless barrel, rifle gas
Superlative Arms AGB, clamp style
Centurion Arms thermal fit upper
KAC URX 4 handguard
Centurion Arms "sand cutter" bolt carrier, mil spec bolt
Radian Raptor sprayed OD green
Lower:
LaRue Tactical complete lower, MBT-2S curved trigger
FCD ambi QD end plate
Topped off with a Minox ZP5 3-15x50 scope in an LT OBR mount ... which is a helluva scope; love it.
Upper:
Noveske Medium Varmint 20" stainless barrel, rifle gas
Superlative Arms AGB, clamp style
Centurion Arms thermal fit upper
KAC URX 4 handguard
Centurion Arms "sand cutter" bolt carrier, mil spec bolt
Radian Raptor sprayed OD green
Lower:
LaRue Tactical complete lower, MBT-2S curved trigger
FCD ambi QD end plate
Topped off with a Minox ZP5 3-15x50 scope in an LT OBR mount ... which is a helluva scope; love it.
Upper
13.7” Pinned and weld Rosco 416 stainless barrel, griffin duel-lok flash hider, yhm t2, aero bcg, bcm gas block, strike industries dust cover, radian charging handle, and Solgw hand gaurd.
Lower
Aero lower. geissele lower parts kit, geissele two stage trigger, b5 furniture, springco standard weight buffer spring, and h3 buffer.
Optic / light system
Holosun 515 gm, 1.93 leap mount, troy buis, arisaka 18650 light body with malkoff head, cloud defense lcs, and surefire tape switch.
13.7” Pinned and weld Rosco 416 stainless barrel, griffin duel-lok flash hider, yhm t2, aero bcg, bcm gas block, strike industries dust cover, radian charging handle, and Solgw hand gaurd.
Lower
Aero lower. geissele lower parts kit, geissele two stage trigger, b5 furniture, springco standard weight buffer spring, and h3 buffer.
Optic / light system
Holosun 515 gm, 1.93 leap mount, troy buis, arisaka 18650 light body with malkoff head, cloud defense lcs, and surefire tape switch.
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Another go with the "mock" 12.
Pictured with my old hunting suppressor, a regular baffle style suppressor made from titanium and aluminium. It is not great, but not terrible either, some backpressure was felt.
Flashlight gonna git chewed the phuq up, bruh!
He's going for that nice carbon patina.
I pretty much run all my lights in that position. Zero issues to date on all the different versions I have used. Fury, various scout models, etc. This is the new Turbo model so I'll see what happens. I did the Aimpoint micro cover mod to the scout lights just to help keep them cleaner on the lens. The turbo head is larger so I might end up buying one of those flip covers for it if it has problems. So far the lens has stayed clean, just the side of the housing gets some carbon.
They make cans for handguns too. Just use Scrotum Carry and impress everyone.
I live in a non suppressor friendly state. If I could have them I would have several. And yes my X300's get punished on the pistols except for my Glock 34 and dual port comped P320. A little clear chap stick on the lens before a long shooting day helps make it easier to clean.
Also clay bars for cars work wonders for taking the carbon off the lens when it's stubborn.
Also clay bars for cars work wonders for taking the carbon off the lens when it's stubborn.
Noted.
But seriously, I just might have to have that attachment.
Plain old pencil eraser always worked for me…
All my rifles are shot w/a suppressor now though, so it’s not really an issue any more. Some of my pistols are still fired unsuppressed though, and almost all have some kind of light affixed, so I still have to break out the old #2 pencil every now and again to clean the lens.
How did you like the LPVO on the short barrel in real world use? It makes a lot of sense to me and I'm considering an ATACR 1-8 on my 10.5 upper.
LVPO works great on short barreled 5.56mm. I primary used that one for target identification at range. Keep in mind an LVPO won’t be as fast as a red dot at close range and it will typically weigh more/take up more rail space.
Depending on how you are using your rifle/your task at hand, you won’t see enough MV change to justify the extra barrel length on say a 14.5” or 16” rifle.
From my experience, biggest issue with a short barreled rifle and an LVPO is the rail space needed to mount a IR laser and/or thermal in front of your optic. Shouldn’t be an issue with a 10.5” 5.56mm upper though.
Depending on how you are using your rifle/your task at hand, you won’t see enough MV change to justify the extra barrel length on say a 14.5” or 16” rifle.
From my experience, biggest issue with a short barreled rifle and an LVPO is the rail space needed to mount a IR laser and/or thermal in front of your optic. Shouldn’t be an issue with a 10.5” 5.56mm upper though.
