-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Maggie’s The Wood Shop
- Thread starter TxWelder35
- Start date
I cuts great. I need to fine tune the feet as there is a slight hump in the track. I also need to put a nail or two in each of the feet into the 4x4 so they don’t vibrate around.
This is her temporary home for now, I plan on building a 16x24 shed roof, open wall home for it later on.
Now just needs clear coat…
So far epoxy lake/river tables are not daunting at all!!!!
Sirhr
So far epoxy lake/river tables are not daunting at all!!!!
Sirhr
Been a while since I made this project, the curly maple was an excellent find.
The first 8 feet of any tree is always the best. Especially if that tree is next to a road.
Last edited:
Nothing too special. Just plywood and pocket screws. Does the trick though.
25’ up in a maple… 1 of 6 we found. Cost me 1 $160 chain… after the first 2 we turned it into firewood
The next time I get out in the woods I'll take some pictures. The old-timers that came along and cut the old growth that was next to the road left the first 8 foot of the tree. We called it a lever-right. Fall it Buck and leave it right there on the ground.
Crazy. Must have been a tree house or someone's deer stand. Trees grow out; hammer a nail into a small tree, it'll stay at that height for the life of the tree.
The old timer that lived behind the house I was cutting at said it got struck by lightning a while back. I believe him, there were 8 of them in there and some serious rot/ a massive healed over crack down
Nice fit in the left corner.
Had to inlet due to the cylinder and grip frames not being flush.
Had to inlet due to the cylinder and grip frames not being flush.
And right side corner fit:
Had to inlet this side too:
Had to inlet this side too:
Probably a desert camo finish.
That would be OAF!
Who wouldn’t want to drink some BRCC with pistol stocks ready to go on Infidel Crusade.
Almost makes my operator beard tingle.
Here is a pair of small end tables I just finished. I actually built this pair of tables in high school with a size of 20x26. They just got to the point where they were too big to fit where we wanted to use them. Thought about getting rid of them but decided that I would cut them down to a better size for our needs. So they were cut apart resized and refinished. Now they are 10x20 in size and are really cute.
Attachments
Beautiful air dried French Walnut. Here is a sneak peak for you degenerates. Might have to call them GTP (gettin’ the pussy) grips.
Wow! That revolver is going to be sweet with those grips. A piece of art, a working tool, it doesn't get much better than that.
I did this to a French folding away table my wife found. After stripping, it was too big so I decided to re-square it and cut it down. When it got to the size of a coaster, my wife threw it out. Yours came out great!
Walnut whiskey display box using a crotch piece with maple inlays for the door.
Glue up. For this I use T-88 epoxy due to it’s strength and long open time. The white stuff on the back strap is wax, used as a release agent.
You can just squeeze a .002 feeler gauge between the ears and the grips.
You can just squeeze a .002 feeler gauge between the ears and the grips.
Are you actually gluing the grips to the gun? I would not have guessed that you would glue them on and then shape them.
This is a lamp I made out of some 25-ish year old (meaning it was cut about 25 years ago, not the age of the tree) mesquite, a lot of epoxy, and some scrap wood (maple, cherry, black walnut, pecan).
Last edited:
That's nice! Do you put in the wood in a form, fill it with epoxy then run it on the lathe after it hardens?
Thanks, and yes, I turned it to the approximate shape that I wanted, put it in a form, poured the epoxy, added the wood scraps for accents, and then turned it after a week or so of drying. It weighs 17.5 lbs finished. It was a lot for my mid sized Jet 12-21 lathe.
Did you put a vacuum on this? I'm wanting to get into this (17lbs in more than I would take one) but the bubbles issue has me going slow. Very nice job!
No vacuum. I put the wood on top of a five gallon bucket lid and wrapped some .3 mil (or similar) plastic around it, taping the seam liberally. Then I hot glued the plastic to the lid and poured the epoxy in. I had to put extra tape on a couple of places as I saw leaks. I let it set up for 3 or 4 days then put the accent wood in and poured more epoxy. I knew I would be turning it down so I didn't worry about bubbles. Any that occurred on the body I just filled with CA glue. Maybe 2 or 3.
If you look closely you will see some black epoxy on the top around the threads. I used a heat gun to keep the bubbles to a minimum. I monitored it for 30 minutes or so. If any bubbles popped up I would lightly run the heat gun over it. The finish turned out great.
I use thick pour epoxy on the large projects. It seems to bubble less.
Need some advice, hired a cabinet shop to put in new cabinets and these live edge shelves. They just put 2 screws on each side through the side of the cabinet into the slabs of wood and of course this didn’t work. Just went to take them down and just about every single screw sheared due to wood movement. I don’t want to just put new screws in and hope for the best, I’d rather do this right. What are yalls suggestions? I’ve installed floating shelves before and did the hidden hardware on the wall but I’d rather not do that here since I literally just put this backsplash up and I should have thought of this before I did that.
So I’m thinking cut small slot holes on the cabinet and threaded inserts/bolts into the sides of the live edge slabs. Any other ideas? I don’t really want to brackets underneath them.
So I’m thinking cut small slot holes on the cabinet and threaded inserts/bolts into the sides of the live edge slabs. Any other ideas? I don’t really want to brackets underneath them.
If the material on the sides of the cabinets is thick enough, I would consider installing wood dowel pins to support the shelves. This would hide the fasteners like the screws the cabinet shop used. The size and number of pins would depend on the thickness and weight of each shelf.
I would consider using small lag bolts (1/4x2 1/2?) through the cabinet sides and into the shelf side. Over size the holes in the cabinet sides to allow for any wood movement.
Another idea would be to slot the sides of the shelf to fit a bracket (steel or aluminum, 1/2x1/2) which would be screwed to the cabinet side and slide the shelf onto the bracket from the front. Use a segmented bracket or again slot the holes to allow for the wood movement.
Another idea would be to slot the sides of the shelf to fit a bracket (steel or aluminum, 1/2x1/2) which would be screwed to the cabinet side and slide the shelf onto the bracket from the front. Use a segmented bracket or again slot the holes to allow for the wood movement.
Attachments
Projects like these are my favorite. Swords are full tang made from granadillo, which is 2700 on the Janka Hardness scale. Handles have curly walnut scales.
Bevels are being cut in with rasps, card scraped, and then I’ll sand the blades to 1000 grit.
Bevels are being cut in with rasps, card scraped, and then I’ll sand the blades to 1000 grit.
I have not been on this page in a while, and I am so impressed. You guys are turning out some truly incredible stuff. The cabinet from curly maple that was posted months back dropped my jaw, and the dovetails on the whiskey bottle rack are works of art. The grips, lamp etc are all beautiful.
Some more profiling. It’s funny because there is enough money worth of rasps sitting on the bench to buy a really nice belt sander, lol.
