Maggie’s The Woodchuck and Firewood Hoarders Thread
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026 is the first new saw i bought. I stihl have it. It is a fun saw.
Question for the saw guys, Since the government had been adding ethanol to our gas almost all my small engine carbs have been ruined. I have replaced the carbs on most of them and now empty they tank and run them until they are out of fuel before putting them away. I notice that my saw's (3 Stihl's) dont seem to have a problem and I dont empty them out. Is it the 2 stoke oil that keeps the fuel from turning to crap ?
I never had the problem with ethanol fuels that most seem to have. Or have had. Only issues I really had were fuel lines. And plastic fuel tanks on older atv's. I used to work on them. It seemed to eat a layer off the inside of them early on and ran sludge into the carbs.
As far as my saws and small engine stuff, only issue I have is fuel goes bad quick. I run seafoam in all my small engine stuff now and it has a fuel stabilizer in it. No real issues since I've been using it.
Every little thing you can do to help those 2 strokes along will pay off down the road. For fuel I run non-ethanol.
I run:
AMSOIL FULL SYNTHETIC Dominator 2-Cycle Oil
Ethanol is hard on rubber. It also will leave a brown deposit behind when it evaporates/vaporizes that usually/eventually will cause an issue. By running an engine dry, you may not really be helping as it leaves the residual fuel behind to vaporize and attach to even more fuel components.
Non-ethanol fuel if you can find it is the answer. If it isn’t readily available, buy Sta-Bil 360 Marine and use it according to the label. It neutralizes the alcohol and prevents fuel vapor from leaving deposits. It was developed for carbureted boats because they tend to be greatly affected with no easy to get Efree fuel at marinas.
In my previous business I used a lot of small engine fuel and I never had a fuel related issue after beginning to use 360 Marine….I used it for years. I use it today in my ZT and ATV but I do buy Efree for 2cycles (just too easy since it is readily available).
The product is available at WM, either in the auto section or the boat section.
Good to know about the stabil. I've used their products in the past, but not that one. All my ope has ran better since running seafoam through them on occasion.
Funny thing about the E free fuel, in my area anyway. I use vp fuel jugs. I got a blue one to dedicate to the E free fuel and the nozzle got so hard and stiff I thought it was going to snap. All my other jugs that I used for regular gas and diesel were fine and I'd had them for several years. I figured if the E free fuel was doing that to the nozzle on my jug, it couldn't be doing my fuel lines any favors. Long story short, I quit buying it. In the summer months I turn my fuel over pretty quick anyway.
Those hoses on the fuel jugs are vinyl I believe.
I use the RK race jugs but have not noticed any issue like that.
+1 on the dominator and sta-bil. I run my carbs and tank dry. Because of the summer heat I run 40 to 1.
2 stroke oil is a deeply personal thing and can generate strong emotions 
…but I use Echo Red Armor
which is very highly regarded on AS and OPE.
Whatever you do, just don’t use Stihl HP Ultra
…but I use Echo Red Armor
which is very highly regarded on AS and OPE.Whatever you do, just don’t use Stihl HP Ultra
Like @Lawless and after watching some saw repair videos, I recently switched to Red Armor for mix. I have probably burned several gallons of saw gas with the new 2 cycle oil now, and it seems to work well.
I Never did use the Ultra, even though the dealer tried to sell me on it. I was just used to , or was, to blue/green fuel.
I also run a richer oil mix, 32-40:1 instead of 50:1. I figure in the Eastern WA heat and dust a little extra oil helps. Have done this for years.
Guess I better figure out when the rain is gonna have a break and get my last load or three for the season, unless I find something easy when big game hunting seasons open up.
I Never did use the Ultra, even though the dealer tried to sell me on it. I was just used to , or was, to blue/green fuel.
I also run a richer oil mix, 32-40:1 instead of 50:1. I figure in the Eastern WA heat and dust a little extra oil helps. Have done this for years.
Guess I better figure out when the rain is gonna have a break and get my last load or three for the season, unless I find something easy when big game hunting seasons open up.
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Picked up a new 372 a few weeks ago along with some fiskars stuff. I have no idea how I lived without that hookaroon. Finally cooled off enough to get after a pile of beetle kill ash...
The guys who know say that it is one of the few oils safe at 50:1 in a chainsaw. I still have been running it at 32:1 and have no issue with splooge or carbon on the muffler and my plugs are very clean.
All I ever ran was the stihl orange bottle, then came the hp ultra, never liked that stuff. Then I learned about modding saws and dropped it like a bad habit. Since then I've ran red armor, belray h1r, and now motul 800 offroad. All 50:1. I used to follow a faller on youtube that built saws. He's cut over a million board feet on his og ms462 build and it's still going strong. Mix ratio ? 800 offroad at 50:1.
I did run 40:1 for a little while because one saw I have uses that ratio but it just slobbers oil out of tge muffler so I went back to 50:1.
This was my first try when I first started having problems, but I still had problems when using sta-bil . My problem is that some 2 strokes I only use once a year. I have had the best luck just empty out the tank then idle until they run out of fuel.
I had a Echo 6700 saw sit untouched for about 15 months with Stihl Orange bottle in regular gas treated with 360 and it started in 4 pulls. I’m a believer in it. As always YMMV.
I run ethanol free gas in all my two strokes. Also use it in my boat motors. Local marine shop said they do not sell or recommend Sta-
Bil fuel stabilizer. Told me it causes more problems in boat motors than it solves. Their recommendation is to use Star Tron in the fuel.
Bil fuel stabilizer. Told me it causes more problems in boat motors than it solves. Their recommendation is to use Star Tron in the fuel.
Here's a little fuel story, that may help.
At the very-least, it may entertain somewhat.
We have a boat here, a good-sized one, and we use it comfortably during boating season. It has a 100 gallon tank. As most everyone knows, don't store fuel tanks empty.
So, upon the end of season, we pulled out the boat. I added a 'judicious' amount of Cambodian Tire (because everything seems to be made in Cambodia) "Fuel Stabilizer" to-which their bottle comes in two different sizes. Small and big. The 'big' iirc was supposed to be good for 500 litres. Our tank is less than that, but who's gonna save 'just a bit' of that stuff, so I put it in the tank. The whole bottle.
On the way home, we stopped at the same gas station we normally use to fill our truck, (regular gas) and also filled the boat (premium gas).
This is/was what we had always done previously. Everything will be good, and come Spring we'll be good-to-go and all is well, right?
Well, it was the end of Winter/beginning of Spring when the FIL attempted suicide. So obviously, with everything going on, the whole idea of taking the Winter cover off the boat was forgotten about. For that whole season.
The next one too.
It wasn't until the following season, (2 1/2 years later) where we could actually entertain the idea of 'getting the boat back onto the water.'
I was quite concerned about that 100 gallons of premium fuel, and do we now have a tank of 'jello' or some such crap? Replacing that was NOT looking interesting OR viable. But we hooked up the earmuffs to the garden hose, and test ran the engine after 'de-winterizing'. It fired right up, just like it had been run the day before.
That season, we used up as much of that tank as we could, before adding more. To this day, everything is good, and 'fuel' isn't an issue at all.
The whole point of this diatribe, is to show that WE DIDN'T plan to 'not use the boat'..... that situation was thrust upon us by others actions. Nor did we plan to 'stagnate' for a few years, doing the daily 'adulting' for the family. But with regards to this thread, what I AM getting at is that the Cambodian Tire fuel stabilizer actually IS good stuff, and it outperformed ANY AND ALL of our expectations. With a 'large' amount of 'very expensive' fuel.
Hope that helps, and that someone can learn vicariously through this. Don't learn it the hard way....
At the very-least, it may entertain somewhat.
We have a boat here, a good-sized one, and we use it comfortably during boating season. It has a 100 gallon tank. As most everyone knows, don't store fuel tanks empty.
So, upon the end of season, we pulled out the boat. I added a 'judicious' amount of Cambodian Tire (because everything seems to be made in Cambodia) "Fuel Stabilizer" to-which their bottle comes in two different sizes. Small and big. The 'big' iirc was supposed to be good for 500 litres. Our tank is less than that, but who's gonna save 'just a bit' of that stuff, so I put it in the tank. The whole bottle.
On the way home, we stopped at the same gas station we normally use to fill our truck, (regular gas) and also filled the boat (premium gas).
This is/was what we had always done previously. Everything will be good, and come Spring we'll be good-to-go and all is well, right?
Well, it was the end of Winter/beginning of Spring when the FIL attempted suicide. So obviously, with everything going on, the whole idea of taking the Winter cover off the boat was forgotten about. For that whole season.
The next one too.
It wasn't until the following season, (2 1/2 years later) where we could actually entertain the idea of 'getting the boat back onto the water.'
I was quite concerned about that 100 gallons of premium fuel, and do we now have a tank of 'jello' or some such crap? Replacing that was NOT looking interesting OR viable. But we hooked up the earmuffs to the garden hose, and test ran the engine after 'de-winterizing'. It fired right up, just like it had been run the day before.
That season, we used up as much of that tank as we could, before adding more. To this day, everything is good, and 'fuel' isn't an issue at all.
The whole point of this diatribe, is to show that WE DIDN'T plan to 'not use the boat'..... that situation was thrust upon us by others actions. Nor did we plan to 'stagnate' for a few years, doing the daily 'adulting' for the family. But with regards to this thread, what I AM getting at is that the Cambodian Tire fuel stabilizer actually IS good stuff, and it outperformed ANY AND ALL of our expectations. With a 'large' amount of 'very expensive' fuel.
Hope that helps, and that someone can learn vicariously through this. Don't learn it the hard way....
The easy answer is to use it with every addition of fuel to the tank.
That way, if you run into a situation like Sean did, the stabilizer is already into the entire fuel system, and not just the tank.
It's cheap insurance.
That way, if you run into a situation like Sean did, the stabilizer is already into the entire fuel system, and not just the tank.
It's cheap insurance.
Lol.
Did they sell Star Tron?
If they sold both they would tell you both work but that the more expensive one was better.
My son uses bottled fule in his chainsaw for now but since he purchased land that needs a ton of clearing my guess is he will learn to mix a good batch on his own.
I ran 2 stoke outboards for many years. It was more expensive but they were tuned to run on premium.
Ocassionally staybill was added from November till March not to say they were not ran during those months, just less than 2 days a week.
No automatic oilers in any of them.
I would run my larger one at 4500 rpm or at idle and not much between.
Not exactly a hot rod chainsaw but started every time. I rebuilt carbs about every 10 years, probably because I got hold of bad gas.
Anyway a question for the experts.
Why do people not run premium in thier saws?
The shop does sell only Star Tron. Figure he can sell any and all brands he wants and make the same amount of $ on any of them. All he said is that Sta-bil didn't work as advertised in his experience. I think they all work about they same, if you use them, and I have used both.
One thing he was adamant about was using ethanol free gas in boat motors, 2 stroke or 4 stroke, carbed or fuel injected.
An old story comes to mind:
A young man went into the Cadillac dealer and was drooling over a new Caddy on the show room floor.
An old salesman walked over to chat with him.
The young man asked "How many miles to the gallon will this beauty get" ?
The old salesman replied "Son, if you are worried about miles per gallon, you can't afford a new Caddy"....
Chainsaws are no different. Spend $500 + on a saw and scrimp on the fuel and oil.
Driving by ACE today and caved. I've got a big day of cutting/splitting tomorrow.
Went with the 18" bar again.
Went with the 18" bar again.
Ive got the same. Is there enough of us now to be the 261 master race?
Generally they do exhaust ports and different air filters not mufflers. More like asking for a muzzle brake.
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I've got his air filter and the three point dawgs on my 462. And I built a knockoff of his bark box. It sounded beefy but I had mixed feelings about the flat front cover on the muffler. Seemed like the saw ran hotter. Now I use a modified version the chainsaw guys buckshot cover. Two pieces of ⅝" tubing, ½" id, put of the front of the cover.Generally they do exhaust ports and different air filters not mufflers. More like asking for a muzzle brake.
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The air filter I like. I chopped the airbox on my 462 to run the filter exposed. After I did that you could feel the difference. If you've ever muffler modded a saw, opening the airbox felt equivalent to that. And I like oiled foam filters.
The three points are nice but they're a little big for my uses. I wish I could get a set about the size of the factory R model dawgs.
Had a pretty serious day of cutting yesterday, I'm having mixed feelings after a day of the 261c. Looking around online and it seems like the 261c has problems at high altitude. I'm talking 9k-10k ft. Would start for the first time then if it ever stopped, it wouldn't start for another 45min +/-.
Sounds like the self adjusting carb has problems with extremes like that. One person said to let it run high idle for quite a while before starting the day.
Any other input or ideas would be appreciated.
Sounds like the self adjusting carb has problems with extremes like that. One person said to let it run high idle for quite a while before starting the day.
Any other input or ideas would be appreciated.
I would go over here and read or ask questions.
It is always the recommended procedure to let a Mtronic saw idle for about 10-15 seconds before shutting them down. This lets the carb sort of set itself back away from WOT. Doing this helps to not have restarting issues.
My own 261C has had no issues restarting hot (I let it idle before shutting it down) but I’m only at 1500’.
Did a quick search and found this. Haven't done it myself but should work. The label has the mtronic version.
Found it here. Did an internet search for mtronic at altitude.
How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog
STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here.
blog.stihl.co.uk
Just be aware that if you reset, it’ll take a few tanks of fuel before it gets back to full power.
That's awesome! I'll give it a go here soon. Should be doing some cutting next week around the house but that's at 8k. Should be a good test though. Appreciate I guys!
I've had old school saws vapor lock. Try loosening the fuel cap to relieve pressure.
Others have already mentioned it but I would do a reset on it. I've only had two mtronic saws and both have ran like scalded dogs and neither have given me issues. 441cm and a 462cm.
Never noticed that on either of mine.
Stihl ms460, been running it for years, 5 cord per year plus tinkering around, use premium non ethanol with stihl hp oil. I’m curious why some are against this oil?
If you investigate, you find tons of saw mechanics and builders who have seen it ruin saws. It was developed to use in 4mix (4 cycle) equipment to keep the valves clean. It does not meet the current 2 cycle oil spec and in fact is a few behind.
It carbons up mufflers, pistons and ports like no other. Scored pistons, toasted crank bearings…. I would suggest doing some searches on it but ultimately it’s your call. The best saw guys in the US hang out on OPE and Arborsite.
I clear land for a living, clear cuts for farming, about 60 acres a year. I run six saws 2 Husky 395 Husky 365 3 Sthils 261 241 242 I have been doing this for 46 years. I run about 6 gallons week through them, I normally use one of the bigger saws to buck up, and cut down and the smaller saws to limb out. I cut down a days worth of trees, about 60 to 75, pull them out into the field to be limbed out, then skidded over and bucked up into logs, pallet wood and firewood. I cut about 2 tri-axle loads of wood a day. I mention this to give my statement some credibility. I use cheap 87 octane with alcohol, I use Prestone two cycle out board oil mix bought at Walmart. If you read any of the the oil mixes sold by the saw manufactures the all say their oil is made by others. As best as I can tell Husky oil is made by Prestone and just re bottled. I figure as a rule of thumb to put a little over a 1000 gallons of gas through a saw before it is worn out. I have over the years tried different mixes, high test and different grades and different mixing oils. This combination of oil, I would guess I am probably about a 45 to one mix on the oil and have been using the last 12 years to work the best. Most of the time when I lose a saw, I have run it over, crunched it with a tree in the woods or landing when a log rolls over on it, every mistake you can make I have managed more than once. I have only had motors go in two saws out of the last 20 or so saws. When they are worn out by me, they are pretty much whipped all around and not worth rebuilding. I rotate saws, making sure none of them sits too long, as a rule I go to work with 4 saws every day, one is always in the log truck.
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Because my Stihl saw and weed whacker are my “Precious” I only use the Stihl ready mix gas in them. Probably $30/gallon if I did the math. Certainly not for commercial ops just hobbyist homeowners like me.
What’s the word on the Stihl fuel.
What’s the word on the Stihl fuel.
Besides that what are your credentials that would make you believable?
It’s an Alkylate fuel, I know that and that part is good if you can afford it. Most folks cutting at least firewood can’t afford it so not a lot of empirical data.
My weed wacker gets biweekly use this time of year. Still maybe I use a quart through the summer.
The saw gets less frequent use. Only when the odd storm knocks a tree down and I want some ambiance wood to burn.
If between the two if I burn a gallon a year I would be surprised.
That said I find every time I’m at Ace and the cashier tells me “Your $0.50 short of a $5.00 coupon” I end up picking up a $30 can of Stihl gas to hit the limit.
See me for financial tips.
These damn Husqvarnas always givin’ troubles 
My grandson works on it more than cuts with it
My grandson works on it more than cuts with it
