This is worth repeating. In the early part of my 'firewood season' when I'm cutting, it's the hottest, Aug/Sep. The PPE is hot, makes the work that much more tiring. But the consequences of not using it could be life changing....or life ending. Stay safe.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Maggie’s The Woodchuck and Firewood Hoarders Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
- Start date
This is worth repeating. In the early part of my 'firewood season' when I'm cutting, it's the hottest, Aug/Sep. The PPE is hot, makes the work that much more tiring. But the consequences of not using it could be life changing....or life ending. Stay safe.
I just use a file, no guide and no problems. But I learned from a long retired pro logger, my FIL. Today's "loggers" may not even employ a "saw hand", instead depending on their high dollar high volume machinery to do all the cutting/delimbing.
Here's a link to the Oregon saw and chain maintenance manual which may be of help. Downloadable pdf
I also attached a one-page filing angle pdf I had
Just bought a MS250 (everything in the professional series is chipped now) with a 18" chain.
Needed a middle guy between the MS170 (16) and the MS362 (25"). The 18" Husky is just too heavy. Going down to a 10lbs saw from the 12 plus is the ticket for me when delimbing the big ones on a hillside.
Needed a middle guy between the MS170 (16) and the MS362 (25"). The 18" Husky is just too heavy. Going down to a 10lbs saw from the 12 plus is the ticket for me when delimbing the big ones on a hillside.
Hey Tom, look what I found in this round.
I'll get a pic of the pile in a bit, it's getting bigger but I'm.still way behind
I'll get a pic of the pile in a bit, it's getting bigger but I'm.still way behind
@Sean the Nailer - I suppose Pump Handle IA is similar to where I grew up.
Not any folks spiking trees. Just folks using a perfectly good post thats already there for anything.
in all my running around thousands of acres of ditches and tree lines chasing critters, I saw a lot of where something was put somewhere, then just grew into the tree because it was forgotten.
Lots of signs posted up, steps to a kids tree stand or play house, stuff like that where I am from.
And not a lot of wood getters/burners.
We did, but all stuff like @tnichols did, but not his volume. Mostly we would go get it and then I got to cut to length and split by hand. My dad said it would keep me outta trouble. Boy was he wrong!
Not any folks spiking trees. Just folks using a perfectly good post thats already there for anything.
in all my running around thousands of acres of ditches and tree lines chasing critters, I saw a lot of where something was put somewhere, then just grew into the tree because it was forgotten.
Lots of signs posted up, steps to a kids tree stand or play house, stuff like that where I am from.
And not a lot of wood getters/burners.
We did, but all stuff like @tnichols did, but not his volume. Mostly we would go get it and then I got to cut to length and split by hand. My dad said it would keep me outta trouble. Boy was he wrong!
When I worked in the sawmill industry, that was an actual issue that the loggers and the saw-fitters had to be aware of, and constantly vigilant for. There are/were enough of the tree-hugging/fish-kissing/feather-sniffing/granola-munching/Sierra-Club-Worshipping I/D-10-T'S in the area and calling themselves 'Tree-planters' that it was a definite concern.
Though it's the 'plastic' that will screw-up a Pulp mill in very short order. A chipper that will eat a 16' x 10" x 10" cant, and do it in about 6 seconds (56" diameter with 350 HP motor) will also stall-out completely before eating a single hard-hat.
It's all in the blade design. But I digress.....
Though it's the 'plastic' that will screw-up a Pulp mill in very short order. A chipper that will eat a 16' x 10" x 10" cant, and do it in about 6 seconds (56" diameter with 350 HP motor) will also stall-out completely before eating a single hard-hat.
It's all in the blade design. But I digress.....
Nothing wrong with the 250’s. We’ve got a couple that have served well. Broke in Miss Lori and Ty both on a 250. Don’t be afraid of the chipped Mtronic saws, I’ve gotten along just fine with them.
More work at my dad’s today. Second phase of derecho cleanup. I tipped 5 severely damaged trees and pruned/lifted several others. Done for the most part up there. I only recommend the technique in the photo if you have an experienced loader operator you trust. Safety 3rd 
.
. 
Grrrr. Fricken’ yard tree I’ll bet.
Yep, yard tree.
Now I didn't hit it w the saw chain, the hook on that thing grabbed my jeans just above my boot and didn't want to let go. It surprised me and I almost lost my footing.
I love our moronic 261.
I have hundreds of hours on it. I've worn out 3 20 inch bars and am on my 4th.
I love it w the 20 inch bar.
Did I say I like the saw w a 20 inch bar yet?
Put the longer bar on, more teeth and you don't bend over as much.
Awesome saw, it's going to be one of your favorite things
FYI, Echo's pro grade saws are excellent. You can also remove the plastic limiter caps on the carb and it suddenly is fully adjustable and not EPA friendly.
What you are looking for is a Swedish army axe. Not the newer Hults Bruk axes, but the older Kolefors Bruk axes. They will have a stamp on the head "KB4x" with the year varying a little, i.e. 43 44 45. The length is specifically made to fit alongside the ruck and not become entangled by sticking out too far. Both my friend and i have owned many Hults Bruk axes and our fair share of really nice antique Gransfors axes and these blow them all away by a mile. The steel and forging quality is far superior to either brand. I like them so much that I got mine metal tested for the exact steel specs so I can have another one made if I ever need to. They are VERY hard to find.
Chips/noodles anyone? Large Silver (soft) Maple.
@pmclaine , I found some of those axes through a contact I have in Sweden along with some Hults Bruk and Gransfors axes but shipping will be cost prohibitive unless I order a few of them.
Would anyone else be interested in some good quality hand forged Swedish axes from the 1920s-1970s? I could get just heads as well as many of the handles are beat up and not worth shipping.
cost would be about 25 to 80 per before shipping depending on condition. So for a nice forged Swedish axe head you would be looking at about 50 bucks. The most expensive whole axe with handle would be around 100 plus actual shipping to you. You can’t touch a gransfors for that on the normal market.
Would anyone else be interested in some good quality hand forged Swedish axes from the 1920s-1970s? I could get just heads as well as many of the handles are beat up and not worth shipping.
cost would be about 25 to 80 per before shipping depending on condition. So for a nice forged Swedish axe head you would be looking at about 50 bucks. The most expensive whole axe with handle would be around 100 plus actual shipping to you. You can’t touch a gransfors for that on the normal market.
Last edited:
I can also get these for around 60 ish bucks to your door. Made for the South American market so a little lighter and different style than US axes.
brand new Gransfors
brand new Gransfors
Yep. Just as soon as you grab ahold of it.Do any of them come with a motor on them ?
Dude that left toe? was there anything else in the picture? I cant look away........
Those 3 there with the 'black dot' on them, (2 with handles, 1 without) is that a 'hole' or just a 'black dot' from say a magic-marker or something? If it IS a hole, then "why"?
It is my understanding that that is a hole to secure the axe to the pack.
Photo of Swedish negotiations.
And back to the purpose of this thread... pic of my favorite saw.
And back to the purpose of this thread... pic of my favorite saw.
Looks like you are compensating with that bar.......
Swedish negotiator.....
Swedish negotiator.....
Close to home back yard score I was happy to clean up for the homeowner.
I am conducting "Swedish negotiations" and I am currently making the Swede the offer of about 1500 bucks (14,025 Swedish Kroner to be exact) plus shipping for:
14 axe heads
17 complete axes
5 brand new Gransfors Bruk axe heads (spoken for already but I can add more to the order, PM me)
Once I get the deal finalized I will offer a portion of these (minus some that I am keeping for myself and friends
, don't judge) to Hide members on this thread at my cost to get them here plus shipping to you. I will make nothing off this. Hopefully the Swede doesn't want to haggle too much on these because shipping axes from Sweden is expensive as they are heavy and bulky. I will offer them in order of expressed interest in this thread or PM until I run out of the ones I have set aside for Hide members. Once I run out I will post that I am out in the thread.
Some of the complete axes are going to need the handle rehung as they will be loose from long dry storage. If this is the case I will so note in the description. Re-hanging them is easy and takes about 15 minutes and 5 bucks if you know what you are doing. I can rehang them for you if you want but it will be as I have time and I will charge you a little for my time and the wedge.
If you want one completely redone like the one I posted above I can do that too, but once again it will be at my leisure and at an extra charge. Here is what gets redone with a complete refurb. The axe head gets polished in a very gentle and non marring way to remove rust and paint. The handle is rehung if needed with a wood wedge and a steel cross wedge. The handle is refinished with fine grit sand paper and Boiled Linseed Oil. The head is given a protective hard shell coat of BLO as well so it won't rust in shipment. I can put a very sharp edge on the axe if you want or I can let you sharpen it to suit the wood you plan to use it in. I can also provide a good link for a place to buy a really nice old time type leather sheath if you want.
14 axe heads
17 complete axes
5 brand new Gransfors Bruk axe heads (spoken for already but I can add more to the order, PM me)
Once I get the deal finalized I will offer a portion of these (minus some that I am keeping for myself and friends
, don't judge) to Hide members on this thread at my cost to get them here plus shipping to you. I will make nothing off this. Hopefully the Swede doesn't want to haggle too much on these because shipping axes from Sweden is expensive as they are heavy and bulky. I will offer them in order of expressed interest in this thread or PM until I run out of the ones I have set aside for Hide members. Once I run out I will post that I am out in the thread.Some of the complete axes are going to need the handle rehung as they will be loose from long dry storage. If this is the case I will so note in the description. Re-hanging them is easy and takes about 15 minutes and 5 bucks if you know what you are doing. I can rehang them for you if you want but it will be as I have time and I will charge you a little for my time and the wedge.
If you want one completely redone like the one I posted above I can do that too, but once again it will be at my leisure and at an extra charge. Here is what gets redone with a complete refurb. The axe head gets polished in a very gentle and non marring way to remove rust and paint. The handle is rehung if needed with a wood wedge and a steel cross wedge. The handle is refinished with fine grit sand paper and Boiled Linseed Oil. The head is given a protective hard shell coat of BLO as well so it won't rust in shipment. I can put a very sharp edge on the axe if you want or I can let you sharpen it to suit the wood you plan to use it in. I can also provide a good link for a place to buy a really nice old time type leather sheath if you want.
This is an opportunity to get an axe that is the equivalent or better of a 350 dollar modern Gransfors for less than a third of that US. The heads are going to be less because of no handle and easier shipping. Most of these were made back when the master smith at these Swedish forges had been working there for at least 60 years. Here is a list of the smiths at Urafors, a small axe forge in Sweden. Notice how long they worked at their craft. This is why no modern axe can touch some of these old Swedish axes. There is not the institutional knowledge present anymore at any place besides maybe Gransfors.
Ill take one marked Ulfberht.
I might be interested in getting the full package deal.
I like the polish you did on the steel but oiling wood with linseed oil is my own personal fetish/pleasure.......
Apologies for posting rifles in the ax and saw thread.......
I might be interested in getting the full package deal.
I like the polish you did on the steel but oiling wood with linseed oil is my own personal fetish/pleasure.......
Apologies for posting rifles in the ax and saw thread.......
Back to pics of my wood
I am so lucky with what I have to choose from.
I am so lucky with what I have to choose from.
Ax update. Made a deal for 14 axe heads, 33 complete axes, and 5 NOS Gransfors axe heads.
Waiting to see what shipping will be.
ETA, can still add more Gransfors heads.
Waiting to see what shipping will be.
ETA, can still add more Gransfors heads.
