Suppressors Thunderbeast brake attach suppressor ever get stuck

[excess]

I'm trying to buy one of the new brake attach Thunderbeasts and my local dealer seems intent on talking me out of it. He says he's not a fan (of the older BA design at least) as several of his customers have had the can seize on the brake. He recommends the threaded can instead. Any experience with this?

 

[Zak Smith]

I can't remember ever getting back a BA series can with the brake "seized" inside. We have gotten a few back where the person forgot to loctite the brake to the rifle and then the brake stayed in the can when it was unscrewed (the BA external threads have more friction than muzzle threads).

If you shoot a lot without removing the can from the brake, the carbon buildup can make it hard to finally remove. We've found that if you give the outside of the can right over the thread portion (ie, about 1/4"-1/2" back from the rear end) a good whack with the handle of a screwdriver it can knock the stuff loose internally and then it will just unscrew. To prevent excessive buildup (and you'll know what it looks like when you see it), just use a bristle brush periodically to loose then carbon on the brake.

 

[wigwamitus]

A majority of people I've talked to agree that threaded cans have less POI shift with greater repeatability, but a majority of those people also own muzzle device attached cans . If you want to be a perfectionist and absolutely reduce the delta between POA and POI and increase the repeatability, then go for direct thread. On the other hand, if like many, you want to quickly and easily move your cans around between your rifles, then consider otherwise.

It is also possible that many local class III dealers will prefer to sell what that have in inventory or what they have best known discounts for. Shop around, call other dealers. Call Silencer Shop, they are kind of a "national" dealer, though you still need a local to do the final transfer.

Get more input before making your decision. BTW, my next suppressor will most likely be a break attached TB, this is so I can move it between .308WIN, 7.62 NATO and .338LM.

 

[excess]

Thanks for the input. I had a hard time believing TBAC would keep selling BA if there was a systemic problem. I agree that the dealer probably just wants to sell out of inventory.

 

[jonaddis84]

Don't confuse the TBAC brake attach series as quick detach cans, as they are not. They are as good, actually better than a direct thread due to the much larger thread diameter and the conical shoulder to square everything up. This also protects the can threads on constant removal/installation. Over time your muzzle threads will wear out the suppressor threads.

I've owned a few BA series cans and never even came close to getting the can stuck on the brake.

I'll have some cb7 and cb9 in stock shortly, you can avoid the mfg lead time and still capitalize on the group buy. I just got my personal cb7 today and really really digging the new brake.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

A majority of people I've talked to agree that threaded cans have less POI shift with greater repeatability, but a majority of those people also own muzzle device attached cans . If you want to be a perfectionist and absolutely reduce the delta between POA and POI and increase the repeatability, then go for direct thread. On the other hand, if like many, you want to quickly and easily move your cans around between your rifles, then consider otherwise.

It is also possible that many local class III dealers will prefer to sell what that have in inventory or what they have best known discounts for. Shop around, call other dealers. Call Silencer Shop, they are kind of a "national" dealer, though you still need a local to do the final transfer.

Get more input before making your decision. BTW, my next suppressor will most likely be a break attached TB, this is so I can move it between .308WIN, 7.62 NATO and .338LM.

Huh? The brake attach mounts up the same way every time just as a direct thread on can does. Instead of threading onto the muzzle directly, it threads onto your brake. The beauty of the brake attach is they mount up rock solid the same way every time so long as you keep the shoulder clean of any build up.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

OP, I have had an issue getting one stuck because I didn't degrease the threads of one of the mounts good enough before mounting it on my rifle. I simply spun it back onto the rifle giving it a good twist and then let it cool completely to the touch. Tried again and it came right off. I remounted the brake making sure everything was oil free, used the rockset again and have not had an issue since then. Don't let your class 3 dealer talk you out of it if you want a brake attach style can as they work well as long as you mount the brake properly.

 

[excess]

Yeah the only thing the dealer talked me out of was using them for a dealer. I'm set on the CB series and ordered two extra brakes yesterday for two other DTA barrels. Thanks all for the input.

 

[Charger442]

Yeah the only thing the dealer talked me out of was using them for a dealer. I'm set on the CB series and ordered two extra brakes yesterday for two other DTA barrels. Thanks all for the input.

Smart move. Anyone who tries to talk you OUT of a Thunderbeast is not someone I would want to do business with, since they obviously don't know what they are talking about.




Ill share my quick "stuck" experience. I mounted a BA brake to a 300 BO and didnt locktite it correctly since i was waiting on my direct thread Ark 30 and it was only going to be temporary. shot a bunch of 300 blk through it, and yep, i twisted the brake off with the can. No big deal, it was 100% my fault, and i was able to get the brake out easily at home on my work bench. that was the 4th host i had run that can on and the other three brakes have held up perfectly, because i installed them correctly with loctite and proper peal washers.


never ever be afraid to buy a TBAC.

 

[Baron85]

I had my 30ba get stuck once on a high round day around 200 and I tried to remove the suppressor while it was still hot. I think the loctite was softened by the heat. Once I got home I cleaned the threads and re loctited the brake on, let it sit over night and the suppressor came right off. Like already said, don't be afraid of TBAC. Best customer service and top notch product.

 

[itieknots7]

I had my 30ba get stuck once on a high round day around 200 and I tried to remove the suppressor while it was still hot. I think the loctite was softened by the heat. Once I got home I cleaned the threads and re loctited the brake on, let it sit over night and the suppressor came right off. Like already said, don't be afraid of TBAC. Best customer service and top notch product.

That's why it's recommended to use rocksett. It has a higher tolerance to temperature and only requires 35 pounds of force to remove.

 

[bigbear_98]

Well... I have one stuck right now. I've tried a few different things but it's stuck. Friday I shot it 40 rounds of 308, put it on my 6.5, and shot 80 rounds. Now she's stuck on the rifle. I don't have any complaints though. This suppressor is the best investment I've ever made.

I have it setting in some penetrating oil right now.

 

[Zak Smith]

Probably just got some carbon stuck in the wrong spot. Give me a call and I can walk you through a couple things.

 

[bigbear_98]

Probably just got some carbon stuck in the wrong spot. Give me a call and I can walk you through a couple things.

Thanks for the phone call Zak. I'll try what we talked about and report back.

 

[MikeD987]

Same thing happen to me on a high round count day after taking a class at KM. While my Suppressor was still hot I tried to remove it and no joy it took a good worry of 3-5 mins and a little bit of he-man power to take it off. After that I went to the store and got some anti seizing stuff. I changed out my brake to the CB one now when it came out still haven't had a chance to go out to the range yet. Use loc tight red because it was strong enough to hold but a little painful to remove when upgrading to the CB.

 

[rak187]

I always put a little Kopr-Kote anti seize on the threads of the brake before shooting suppressed. I shot 320rds of .308 in one session screwed right off.

 

[1slow01z71]

I put a little carbon remover oil on the taper surface and threaded portion for my cans and it works well. Just make sure you put a little thread locker on the muzzle threads when you install the taper mount. The taper mount cans are also nice since youre not stuck with one muzzle thread pattern and mine have been dead nuts repeatable. I dont really care what the shift is within reason as I never shoot without the can but my bullet always goes where it did last time so I dont worry.

 

[bigbear_98]

My suppressor got to Tbac at 1030 Thursday morning, William from Tbac called me at about 230. He had it broke loose. Since I've been using the can on two different guns, the carbon has built up in two different places. Apparently it was reeeeaaaal dirty. Their gonna clean it up and send it back.

I didnt know know they would clean them once a year for you. That's awesome. Great customer service.

 

[Zak Smith]

All ya had to do what hit it harder with that hammer!

 

[bigbear_98]

All ya had to do what hit it harder with that hammer!

I was scared!!!

 

[TWANGnBANG]

I was scared!!!

Sometimes I think it's worth sending it in for something like a truly stuck can so we don't have to witness what is done to get it off.

 

[flatland1]

I've had one of my BA brakes come off one of my 6x47s with the can after shooting 70+rds in a match, but I've never used the rocksett on any of the mounts. Soon as things cooled down a bit, I screwed it back onto the rifle snug, tried it again, and the brake stayed on the rifle that time. Probably should clean things up and use rocksett, but was concerned about getting the brake/mount off when I re-barrel.

One thing's for sure - the TBAC BA-1 is my favorite can, and certainly will be....at least until the 30CB9 I ordered comes through. This is the first can I've used that actually improved the accuracy of a couple of my rifles - and on the ones it didn't help on, it sure didn't hurt, either.

 

[Zak Smith]

Rocksett is no stronger than blue loctite, it just doesn't melt.
Rocksett can be removed, per the directions, using water.

 

[Timo494]

I can't remember ever getting back a BA series can with the brake "seized" inside. We have gotten a few back where the person forgot to loctite the brake to the rifle and then the brake stayed in the can when it was unscrewed (the BA external threads have more friction than muzzle threads).

If you shoot a lot without removing the can from the brake, the carbon buildup can make it hard to finally remove. We've found that if you give the outside of the can right over the thread portion (ie, about 1/4"-1/2" back from the rear end) a good whack with the handle of a screwdriver it can knock the stuff loose internally and then it will just unscrew. To prevent excessive buildup (and you'll know what it looks like when you see it), just use a bristle brush periodically to loose then carbon on the brake.

How did you get the brake out? I just did this.

 

[Zak Smith]

You can either just clean and re-apply loctite and screw the unit onto the muzzle, wait a day, and unscrew.

Or you can use a 5/8-24 threaded stud and a jam nut to hold the brake in place and then a rubber strap wrench to unscrew the can

Relevant tech note https://thunderbeastarms.com/forum/threads/what-to-do-if-your-cb-ba-suppressor-gets-stuck.412/

 

[30338]

Never shoot without my UL7 CB attach suppressor not screwed on so can't comment on poi shift. Shot this group the other day though using a relatively light 6.5 lapua. Love my UL7 with CB attachment.