I'm just glad you're finding out what a pain it is to be a left handed shooter. The struggle is real. 
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Tikka build? Whos gonna talk me into a custom?
- Thread starter Coyote Kev
- Start date
As difficult as it can be, it has gotten a lot better.I'm just glad you're finding out what a pain it is to be a left handed shooter. The struggle is real.
Considering you have one already, any reason you wouldn't get the Oryx? -- MDT shows LH Tikka in stock in every color.
Either way, at this point, I'd wait till their black Friday sale.
And definitely get their 22-250 mag: https://mdttac.com/22-250-mdt-metal-aics-magazine-10-rnd/
Yep, you can buy an action, but at $800+ you're better off buying a CTR for $949 and selling off the parts you don't want/need...or just shooting the CTR as-is for a while since it's a fine rifle in its own right (maybe try that newish Hornady 100 grain ELD-VT?), then after a while you can replace the barrel with a 22-250, 22 Creed, 22GT, etc. with just a relatively simple barrel swap (if you aren't already aware, be prepared - Tikka barrels are installed with a high torque and an aggressive thread locking compound).
Or you can get a Left Hand Origin and have the ability to buy the numerous prefits on the market in any caliber desired, have the option for interchangeable bolt heads and much higher market value. Just my $.02.
I don't disagree - and I own both (a custom Tikka 6.5CM that started as a Tac A1 and an Origin with a 6GT Proof prefit) - but it's also worth considering that an Origin action by itself costs about the same or slightly more than an entire Tikka CTR rifle.
From my quick price comparison (not considering any sales) An Origin is a few hundred cheaper than a complete CTR.. $900 (Origin) vs $1149-$1240 Tikka CTR...
You can buy a UR Prefit for about $100 more and have a full custom barreled action with a tack driver barrel in any caliber you want.....
Alright so it's $50 more. Not cheaper. If your gonna shoot it as is, sure. If your gonna tear it right apart if go Origin.
Origin is actually $875 at Brownells and when you can find a coupon code I've seen them for $775-$800
Or you could get a LH Bergara, in stock here: https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting...-action-rifle-22-250-remington-24in/p/1737309
Honestly, I think you are really overthinking this. It's a p-dog and coyote gun. You don't need anything crazy for that. Something like this would be the most cost effective solution for what you seek.
If you want to spend $2500+, then build a .22-250 off of an Origin, CDG, BAT Igniter, etc.
Honestly, I think you are really overthinking this. It's a p-dog and coyote gun. You don't need anything crazy for that. Something like this would be the most cost effective solution for what you seek.
If you want to spend $2500+, then build a .22-250 off of an Origin, CDG, BAT Igniter, etc.
Proof, Preferred Barrels, X-Caliber, PVA, McGowen (had issues with the chamber on the one I have, it shoots great now, they are under different management) OMR, Carbon Six, Criterion, Unknown Munitions. Probably more out there.
If you watch the px here you can get CTR for sub $800. I also like the bolt throw on the Tikka as well. Since using my AI’s I don’t care for a 90° action anymore
Maybe the origin is less than 90° I’m not even sure
Maybe the origin is less than 90° I’m not even sure
I'm not seeing what you mean with the UR prefit. I don't see them offer barreled actions.
Urban Rifleman offers Savage small shank (origin) prefits for around $319 (and Tikka, rem700, and many other)
I never said he offered barreled actions. I was saying for a little more than a CTR you could buy an left hand Origin with an UR prefit and be into it for $1194 which was right in the price I was finding of CTR's.... and, he has lots of chamber offerings.
PREFIT NUT BARREL (REM 700, SAVAGE SM/LG, TIKKA T3, KELBY, BAT, CURTIS AXIOM, BERGARA, RUGER AMERICAN, WIN M70))
Precision Rifle Shooting Accessories
theurbanriflemanstore.com
I tested one of his 6BR 25" barrels and this was my first 5 shot group at 300yd after doing load workup at 100yd. They were $279 when I bought this 6br to test.. prices went up a little bit but that's cheap for a full custom that shoots...
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Avoid nut-barrels, they are Fugly, very 1990 and more trouble than they are worth. Settle on a shouldered pre-fit capable action.
... that's what we are talking about these days when we discuss prefit barrels.
If you look two posts above, right above the pretty picture is a link to pre-fit nut barrels. But you keep talking, and I will keep laughing
Posted by somebody that has never posted in the Tikka thread, padom, and brought up by someone else that has never posted in the Tikka thread, you.If you look two posts above, right above the pretty picture is a link to pre-fit nut barrels. But you keep talking, and I will keep laughing
Carbonsix, proof, PVA, preferred, and omr I am sure make non nut prefits.
If you’re set on a Tikka you might as well do it in 6.5 Creedmoor. Both are equally gay. Might as well make it perfect.
Funny thing is that you still have not figured out how to read or even do stealth research. I responded in the first 10 posts. So now, if may, I shall return to laughing at you
You thought I was referring to this thread? Ha. I was referring to the 13,079 post pinned Tikka T3 Thread.Funny thing is that you still have not figured out how to read or even do stealth research. I responded in the first 10 posts. So now, if may, I shall return to laughing at you
Nah, really don’t care about Tikkas all that much and in reality nothing I said here was directed solely at Tikkas. Oh well, have a great night
Gay as is in fun or happy right? What $6000 rifle should I build then if I wasn't set on being so gay?
I recommend the UR nur barrel because it is cheap and shoots lights out. I would take that on an Origin over a Tikka all day.
But gay, and nothing but problems? Man that's some real technical facts to go off of to make an educated decision.
Some people may need to take a break from this thread or the hide all together and rethink shitting on technical discussions....
But gay, and nothing but problems? Man that's some real technical facts to go off of to make an educated decision.
Some people may need to take a break from this thread or the hide all together and rethink shitting on technical discussions....
So pardon my ignorance, but other than asthetics, what's wrong with a barrel nut? And how is the barrel secured without one?
You're limited on barrel contours (barrel nut excludes the heavier/thicker contours), and setting headspace is an additional step and something that can change on you if you aren't careful.
Some people consider the latter to be a pro, but honestly I have no desire to have a barrel setup in which the headspace can change (whether intentional or not).
A 1.062" straight Savage Small Shank nut prefit is a very heavy contour very similar to a Heavy Varmint. The only difference is the 0.138" diameter difference for the 3-5" from the shoulder when comparing to a HV. They weigh about the same. The only difference is if you want to run a 1.2" straight barrel...
Now, headspace DOES NOT change on a properly installed and torqued nut barrel. If you properly install and torque a nut barrel prefit on your action, your headspace is NEVER changing for the life of that barrel. Not intentionsally or unintentionally. If you have headspace changing on a nut barrel, you didnt install it right.
Now, maybe you left out some clarification on your statement and you meant to say if you run a nut barrel as a switch barrel prefit, switching between multiple nut barrels regularly, then yes, if you dont re-install the barrel the exact same way with the exact same gauges and torque to the exact same spec every time, then you can change your headspace.
A bunch of us shot tons of nut barrels for many many years before shouldered prefits existed and there was no accuracy or headspace issues compared to a shouldered prefit.
But, to be clear to keep the facts straight, there is nothing wrong with a nut barrel and headspace absolutely does not change if you headspace and install and properly torque that barrel on and shoot it until its shot out. Its no different than a shouldered barrel at that point. The nut is the shoulder. A bunch of us even had dedicated nuts for each barrel and red loctite them on the barrel when doing the initial headspace and install and torque. Then you just loosen the barrel each time and the nut never moves. Less of a risk of changing headspace when running nut barrels as switch barrel prefits... This was all before repeatable prefit capable actions came out and shouldered prefits became a thing...
Now, is a shouldered prefit easier to install and requires less tools. Yes. You simply screw the barrel on and torque it to your actions specifications. A nut barrel, you do the same but you need a headspace gauge to screw the barrel on to set the headspace. Is this hard, no. But it is another step and requires 1 more tool....
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I'm not suggesting that the headspace will change while the barrel is installed.
Headspace can change between installations, whether intentionally or intentionally, however. How big of an issue this is or isn't, is down to how you manage it, but it is an additional thing to manage.
Pair up with @padom great explanations above.
Pictures probably not Tikka barrels.
Shouldered barrel. All one piece.
Savage barrel nut style. Nut spins in the threads of the barrel. Torque it up against face of action after setting headspace by varying depth of barrel in action. Requires go gauge.
Shouldered: you will have your action wrench to torque the action on and the barrel vice holds the barrel.
Barrel nut: you have your action wrench, barrel vice holds the barrel and you have another little tool that goes on the nut to tighten it. Or a pipe wrench if youre a finish be damned sorta guy. I hold the action wrench to keep it from spinning relative to the barrel and then I tighten the nut to it with my other hand. Really you only need the barrel nut wrench but I find it much more manageable to have a tool to hold each piece rather than free handing it and spinning stuff with a bit of torque accidentally.
Probably worth pointing out to the OP that you also need a gauge that goes into the chamber to set headspace with the barrel nut.
Just throwing this out there, but as a guy that owns a R700, AI, CZ 527, and Tikkas, where I think the Tikka CTR-mag and their standard plastic mags really shine is with smaller cartridges. For me.
The CTR mag is so much smaller than an AICS, and of course there’s no such thing as an AW mag in 223.
10 rds of 223, or 8-9 rds of 204 in a nice compact CTR mag that feeds like butter.
Plus the action is smaller and lighter than a typical R700 clone (I think…unlike my Tikka I admit I’ve never had my R700 off the barrel).
Just sorta makes for a handy little thing. A bit like my CZ 527, but actually feeds smooth lol
And if you want to go really light, use a regular plastic Tikka mag and corresponding stock.
I’ve read the regular Tikka mags (not CTR) feed 6BR fine, I guess. The CTR mag needs a spacer in the back for 6br…haven’t heard of anyone manufacturing it but someone did it on thestalkingdirectory.co.uk.
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk
Also, I bought some FACTORY metal-lipped standard Tikka 223 mags from an outfit in Europe. I guess for 204 especially they solve the reported issue of the plastic wearing just enough to lose grip on the more tapered 204 case.
I must admit I haven’t used them yet, and never had a problem with the all-plastic mags, but barely used them before getting CTR mags.
The CTR mag is so much smaller than an AICS, and of course there’s no such thing as an AW mag in 223.
10 rds of 223, or 8-9 rds of 204 in a nice compact CTR mag that feeds like butter.
Plus the action is smaller and lighter than a typical R700 clone (I think…unlike my Tikka I admit I’ve never had my R700 off the barrel).
Just sorta makes for a handy little thing. A bit like my CZ 527, but actually feeds smooth lol
And if you want to go really light, use a regular plastic Tikka mag and corresponding stock.
I’ve read the regular Tikka mags (not CTR) feed 6BR fine, I guess. The CTR mag needs a spacer in the back for 6br…haven’t heard of anyone manufacturing it but someone did it on thestalkingdirectory.co.uk.
6mm BR TRG/CTR mags
Hello! Has anyone modified Sako TRG/Tikka CTR magazines to reliably feed 6mm BR?
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk
Also, I bought some FACTORY metal-lipped standard Tikka 223 mags from an outfit in Europe. I guess for 204 especially they solve the reported issue of the plastic wearing just enough to lose grip on the more tapered 204 case.
I must admit I haven’t used them yet, and never had a problem with the all-plastic mags, but barely used them before getting CTR mags.
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You would use the same torque wrench for a nut or shouldered prefit. You need a ft lb torque wrench no matter what barrel you use.... You also need an action wrench for your action, and you need a barrel vice no matter what barrel you use. If using a nut barrel, you will need a Go Gauge for the caliber of the barrel your installing like shown above. You dont need a go gauge for a shouldered barrel because the headspace is already set based on the shoulder.
You want a cheap ft lb torque wrench you could get one of these off Amazon. I know plenty of guys that use it and its more than sufficient for you to install barrels properly on your action.
Thanks for all the info, I have installed 1 savage barrel with a nut and go/ no go gauge. As I recall it was fairly easy. I was just not visualizing the shouldered prefit thing.
Didn't read the whole thing in detail but a tikka lite 22-250 with 8 twist (if such a thing exists for lefties) would be a great place to start. Getting a muzzle threaded is a pretty basic task.
no additional trigger, bottom metal, magazine needed like a 700 custom unless of course you change to a stock/chassis that needs that stuff. If the new KRG echo doesn't suck compared to the bravos, a guy could get the muzzle threaded and slap in in a $300 Echo and have a bitchin tool.
no additional trigger, bottom metal, magazine needed like a 700 custom unless of course you change to a stock/chassis that needs that stuff. If the new KRG echo doesn't suck compared to the bravos, a guy could get the muzzle threaded and slap in in a $300 Echo and have a bitchin tool.
With barrel nuts a far as I know from NSS. Wish they were shouldered prefits like the Zermatt.
AI, Terminus, Curtis, Stiller, BAT, etc. To spend lots there's no end to options and they are all great hell can do almost 6k with just a scope these days.
In reality many of the budget custom action options can be had for a great deal on several of the forums lightly used either as a stand alone or full pkg. MPA's, Origins, or ARC stuff comes to mind for quality budget options in the 2k complete pkg range.
If it was me I would take a hard look through the classifieds and see what is available that would meet your needs (left hand specific classifieds option) and I wouldn't shy away from 6mm stuff with the option of the new ELD-VT for yotes.
If you did want to stick to Tikka, not a bad choice by any means, again check forums and local gun shops. Picked up a TIkka at a local shop 3 weeks ago for 425 with next to 0 rounds on it. Chassis from classifieds on here and a prefit with a discount I'm in it 1250 less the optic. So it can be done with a little patience and shopping around.
Good luck getting the boy set up.
Here’s my t3x ctr in 6.5. Love it!
But, this build is definitely way more than your project budget. Remington 700 may be more feasible..
But, this build is definitely way more than your project budget. Remington 700 may be more feasible..
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