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Tikka T1x barrel removal
- Thread starter Kisssofdeath
- Start date
Hmm maybe I'll need to play with something. I find the bottom edge of a lot of the rim fire ammo to slightly scrape on the bottom barrel causing a bit more force to feed a round. The angle it's feeding at is too steep. Maybe need another thousands of an inch headspace increase..
Yes it happens with all my SK/Lapua ammo. It didn't happen at all on the RWS Rifle Match, I need to compare the two rounds.
I’m going to try the RWS. I usually buy from tspusa and they currently do not have Lapua. With the factory barrel I was getting 2” group at 100yards with some flyers here and there. I’m hoping for 1 moa or something close at 100. The tikka factory barrel at 50 was great even with crap ammo. Sk rifle match(red) I had a couple groups 3/8” at 50 same lot at 100 closer to 3”.
I’m not sure what the difference is from wolf to Eley. I believe they are the same company. One last note CMP sells a case of Eley for 380 something. They limit you to 2 cases a year. But it’s great ammo. I have never seen ELEY at that price in a case.
Interesting. I've never shot 50 yards before until today. I've shot in the .75's and .9's pretty consistently with match ammo on the Factory Barrel. This is with Lapua and Eley Match/Tenex. When I switched to the IBI barrel, it didn't like Eley, but it shoots SK/Lapua in the .6-.7's. So I guess 20% better.
I was able to try out 50yds today with the new barrel, it shot okay, but not as amazing as I wanted. I was hoping to avg 1/2 moa with it since I'm shooting 2/3 moa at 100. I was averaging slightly less than 3/8" groups.
Yeh I mentioend that
Mine is as far back as I can get it. I do notice that the first 5 rounds or so things feed great, but the last 5 rounds in the magazine is where it's a bit harder, I guess the spring has less tension and isn't riding up on the round as much maybe. I'll see if I can fool around more with it.If I smoothed out / jeweler's file at the bottom of the barrel right there, is that really going to affect precision? The other option is that maybe my headspace is still too tight and I need to loosen it up a teensy bit more.
Oh crap... I went to check my old barrel, and I guess my negligence broke it when I was removing it. I didn't have a wooden dowel rod, so I wrapped the head of screw driver with some cardboard and stuck it through the chamber to hammer out the old barrel. Well... it looks like the old barrel did have a feed ramp -- but I also noticed I basically broke my old barrel too... I guess the only place for this to go now is the garbage
Thanks. It shoots really well. Two matches it shot 225 and it was nailing the 4" targets consistently. I don't want to screw it up but it seems like getting a feed ramp installed shouldn't.
I have always liked Pistol King. I wish Brownells would have it on sale again for $7.79 a box.
Ryan got back to me, and told me to get a dremel and a soft stone and break the edge. The newer IBI barrels now have feed ramps. Now I'm shopping for Dremels on HomeDepot/Amazon.
Good to know, thanks.
Have not had a lot of issues but if they appear I'll take the barrel off and dremel away......
For those of you that have swapped to the ibi barrel do you feel like it is alot better than the factory barrel?
With the new IBI barrel it shoots things really consistently. I'm getting a lot less flyers now, and when I pull the trigger on 200 yard targets they hit repeatedly. When doing a quantitative analysis,
SK Standard Plus - 1.1 to 1.32" at 100 yards.
SK Standard Plus IBI - .85" to 1.1" at 100 yards.
Groups look to get tighter about 20% on the same ammo types.
With expensive match ammo I am not seeing that much difference ..
Lapua Center-X: .9" average
Lapua Center-X IBI: .7" average
Eley Tenex - .75"
Eley Tenex on IBI (did not like it) - .9"
Is it worth it? I don't know... I really like the look of it so $325 for improved aesthetics, and 25% tighter groups maybe? The T1X factory isn't a bad shooter at all.
The weather has been pretty good. I have about 300 rounds through the barrel. It’s very impressive. It likes eley practice edge and match as well as tenex. I also tried Lapua center x and Midas. Both had the same performance 3/4 at 100. The eley at 100 ran 9/16-11/16 with a at least one flyer in every 10 round string I shot. It was less consistent then the Lapua. But the Lapua is 2 much to practice with. Don’t get me wrong the first NRL22 near me is in June. I will be using the Lapua Midas for some practice and for the comp. I am really pleased with IBINC.
First one is the Midas. The second is eley practice 100. Both are at 100 with little to no wind. I did shoot at regular paper and I measured those. They won’t upload for some reason.
I ordered lothar walther barrel... should be here in a few days.
Man, that glue or whatever it is was a PITA.
I had to use enough heat that it effectively burned it out... wow.
Seems that I may have slightly screwed up the finish on the receiver...
Everything appears to be fine though.
Removing the bolts is easy with an impact gun and some bits:
The only thing you need to do is use it on a very low setting. Don’t depress the trigger all the way...
Man, that glue or whatever it is was a PITA.
I had to use enough heat that it effectively burned it out... wow.
Seems that I may have slightly screwed up the finish on the receiver...
Everything appears to be fine though.
Removing the bolts is easy with an impact gun and some bits:
The only thing you need to do is use it on a very low setting. Don’t depress the trigger all the way...
Got the Lothar Walther barrel today and installed it.
It is a perfect fit and requires you to freeze the barrel and heat the receiver To install it.
They send you a slightly longer pointed setscrew, and you simply install the bolt.
I did use go-no go gauges to double check, then set the new pointed screw. Then Torqued them all to the same 62 in/lbs with some blue loctite.
It is a perfect fit and requires you to freeze the barrel and heat the receiver To install it.
They send you a slightly longer pointed setscrew, and you simply install the bolt.
I did use go-no go gauges to double check, then set the new pointed screw. Then Torqued them all to the same 62 in/lbs with some blue loctite.
What go gauge did you use? I was planning on 0.043 as that matches SK/Center-X rim.
What was your shank size?
I'd be interested to know your heat and freeze method. Like temps used, length of time exposed and shrinkage numbers of the barrel and expansion numbers of the receiver.
So...ahhhhh.....
1) Put the barrel in the freezer
2) Put the receiver, and only the receiver (no trigger, no magazine well, no bolt) in the over at 250F
3) Come back in an hour
4) Put on your nomex flight gloves and grab the receiver / get the barrel out of the freezer
5) Put antiseize on the mating surface of the barrel (lightly)
6) Insert the barrel into the receiver so that the V groove on the bottom of the barrel lines up with the middle set screw hole in the bottom of the receive.
7) Install the trigger group
8) Insert the bolt until it almost touches the cut out in the barrel face for the extractor
9) Using a large nylon coated wrench, turn the action until the extractor is centered into the cut out for the extractor (extractor relief) on the barrel.
10) Torque the first and third set screws 20in/lbs (use blue loctite)
11) Verify that the bolt opens and closes with a GO Guage (PTG 22LR Rifle works with the extractor), and that the extractor is centered in the extractor relief cut in the barrel face without binding
12) Torque the middle replacement set screw from Lothar Walther to 20in/lbs
13) Re-Torque the set screws to 40in/lbs
One thing interesting is that the Lothar Walther barrel did not come with a thread protector.
Lilja does have them for $20... and they are nice. (Get the CZ one.)
Lilja does have them for $20... and they are nice. (Get the CZ one.)
Oh, something else:
I bought 3 rails for the T1X...
- Area 419
- EGW Guns
- Mountain Tactical
Both the Area 419 and the MT had a lot of flex to them...
The EGW Guns 0 MOA is super stiff...
All of them had extra space in front of the receiver, and if you a positioning the scope in front of the receiver on the rail, you might want the EGW.
It might not matter either, but I much rather have it be solid.
I will say that the area 419 was superbly machined. The relief in the rail to mate the top of the receiver to the rail was flawless, in that the screw holes match exactly to the rail’s screw holes and cut out of the reciever.
I bought 3 rails for the T1X...
- Area 419
- EGW Guns
- Mountain Tactical
Both the Area 419 and the MT had a lot of flex to them...
The EGW Guns 0 MOA is super stiff...
All of them had extra space in front of the receiver, and if you a positioning the scope in front of the receiver on the rail, you might want the EGW.
It might not matter either, but I much rather have it be solid.
I will say that the area 419 was superbly machined. The relief in the rail to mate the top of the receiver to the rail was flawless, in that the screw holes match exactly to the rail’s screw holes and cut out of the reciever.
GBMaryland,
Did you measure the LW shank?
I tried the freeze method and left the barrel overnight and it didn't move at all. It was an IBI barrel but I believe they both still use the same steel 416R Stainless.
Did you measure the LW shank?
I tried the freeze method and left the barrel overnight and it didn't move at all. It was an IBI barrel but I believe they both still use the same steel 416R Stainless.
I didn’t go overboard because LW indicated that it was very likely you’d have to freeze the barrel and warm the action.
They also made it a point of indicating that they’ve seen some burs that sometimes have to be removed, as their tolerance is very exacting.
They also indicated some anti-seize... and that no Loctite would be required as used in the factory barrel.
I apologize but I didn’t measure anything as it literally just installed without an issue.
I did initially try to see if I could put the barrel in without freezing it, and that didn’t work.
It was a breeze when I froze it and warmed the action.
(Oh, and I did torque the three set screws for 62 inch pounds, but I don’t really think they need to be that tight.)
They also made it a point of indicating that they’ve seen some burs that sometimes have to be removed, as their tolerance is very exacting.
They also indicated some anti-seize... and that no Loctite would be required as used in the factory barrel.
I apologize but I didn’t measure anything as it literally just installed without an issue.
I did initially try to see if I could put the barrel in without freezing it, and that didn’t work.
It was a breeze when I froze it and warmed the action.
(Oh, and I did torque the three set screws for 62 inch pounds, but I don’t really think they need to be that tight.)
That's great it worked out. If the barrel and receiver wouldn't fit together from the start it should be locked up solid now without even using the screws. I would also imagine it would be a "one shot opportunity" to get it right the first time because after just a few seconds I believe the receiver would start shrinking.
On mine, I needed a total movement of .003" at least. After leaving my barrel in the freezer overnight and seeing it didn't move at all I didn't even try heating the receiver as I'm pretty sure the steel wouldn't expand .003" I would be interested to know what your original barrel measured.
On mine, I needed a total movement of .003" at least. After leaving my barrel in the freezer overnight and seeing it didn't move at all I didn't even try heating the receiver as I'm pretty sure the steel wouldn't expand .003" I would be interested to know what your original barrel measured.
Re: heat....
The barrel is much more massive than the receiver, so this massive 30F piece of steel doesn't heat up for awhile.
I found that removing it was not gonna be easy, but using a wrench to turn the action to align the extractor position was possible.
The new set screw enables alignment via the V grove cut into the barrel, which is re-enforced by the two normal set screws.
The barrel is much more massive than the receiver, so this massive 30F piece of steel doesn't heat up for awhile.
I found that removing it was not gonna be easy, but using a wrench to turn the action to align the extractor position was possible.
The new set screw enables alignment via the V grove cut into the barrel, which is re-enforced by the two normal set screws.
Its a match chamber. Shoots very well. Shoot just about all ammo well, but like very specific ammo for shooting tight groups.
one of my favorites is CCI Clean-22, and it only like the subsonic version.
one of my favorites is CCI Clean-22, and it only like the subsonic version.
Frankly with all this Covid stuff I haven’t been able to get to the range for sometime.
But I’ll try to do so in a week!
But I’ll try to do so in a week!
Hey thanks everyone for the information in this thread. Using everyones advice I rebarrelled my T1X today in an IBI prefit without too much hassle at all. Impact driver for the barrel lugs, heat gun for the glue and an oversize novelty shifter to free it. Cleaned up perfectly. Tikka, however, do not want you removing that barrel do they!!
Well, she shoots like a laser! Had a minor issue with some hard bolt closes, but I hadn't indexed the barrel correctly. Ended up using a fired shell, bolt in to line everything up with the closed bolt handle being evenly spaced either side of its action position and its a now a little hammer. Lug nuts for the barrel I have set the torque at 50ft-lb
Old thread, but just went through the trauma of tikka t1x barrel removal. Got 2 screws out with pb blaster and an impact drill, 3rd one stuck hard. Broke a hardened steel bit off in it, and the bit wouldn't budge. Used a carbide bit to drill it out, then a cobalt bit to drill the grub screw. Saved the threads, and ordered replacement grub screws (had to get 100 at granger).
If anyone needs replacement grub screws, send me $1 and I'll put 3 in the mail for you.
If anyone needs replacement grub screws, send me $1 and I'll put 3 in the mail for you.
