I took my shoe horn out last week and shot with out at 30in lbs and did not see any improvement in accuracy. I have put it back in and hope to get back out this weekend. What is everybody else seeing, shoehorn or no shoehorn?
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
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Okay I will bite. What is a "shoehorn". Maybe the plastic recoil lug?? If so, how do you remove it as mine is in there really tight. I have a metal lug from Mountain Tactical that I would like to try if I could get the plastic one out. Has anyone noticed improved accuracy with a metal recoil lug?
ID
This is what I am referring to as the shoehorn. One could have the idea that this is how tikka is sort of bedding the action or take it out and freefloat the whole thing, similar to it being installed in a chassis. I removed to screw with a T25 tourqes bit and it came out fairly easy. My recoil lug is factory and it is metal as well.
This is what I am referring to as the shoehorn. One could have the idea that this is how tikka is sort of bedding the action or take it out and freefloat the whole thing, similar to it being installed in a chassis. I removed to screw with a T25 tourqes bit and it came out fairly easy. My recoil lug is factory and it is metal as well.
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As @Gray shooter showed in his picture in front of the recoil lug. When removed it looks like a shoehorn.
FWIW not heard of accuracy improvements on a T1x from replacing the lug. Improvements on removing the shoehorn seem to be mixed.
FWIW not heard of accuracy improvements on a T1x from replacing the lug. Improvements on removing the shoehorn seem to be mixed.
I saw reduced accuracy when I removed the shoehorn from one of my rifles. It went from shooting 1 moa at 100 to 2 moa. Put it back in. The shoehorn has a barrel pressure point at the front which is why I believe experimenting to find the best action screw torque settings is critical.
Current state of business. T1X MTR 20", DIP 25MOA rail with 6-24x50 Diamondback Tactical on top, pistol grip, cheep UTG bipod, cheek rest riser, home printed 20mm stock extender and flat mag base plate. First rifle to take me to sub moa at 100 yards, I'm actually surprised how much I enjoy it. I'll probably end up swapping the bolt handle and adding compensator just for looks down the road.
I am.
It's a good solution to the factory stock that doesn't fit, no cheek riser, etc. but it's probably not any better than a KRG Bravo.
I have it setup for NRL22 right now and it works. I'll look at upgrading to an MPA chassis to keep up with the Vudoo guys
I must be the only shooter running a Bell & Carlson on my T1X(?)
I own the Bravo on a Rem 700, and it works well as designed, especially with all of the accessorie options a Bravo chassis can provide. But the Bell & Carlson is an excellent solid stock as well, with a fair amount of heft, I really like it. With the flat bottom forearm, I believe a plate of some kind might work well.
When you remove the shoehorn it causes the stock to flex more and causes a pressure point, simply installing/removing mine causes a 3" POI change at 50 yards and makes stock bolt torque critical.
Just a great evening on the range with my T1X. I've had multiple sub MOA groups today but this one is my best one yet. 50 yards, 20" barrel, CCI SV.
Hello! Just got my t1x and outfitted with new parts and I’m going to start ammo testing. Someone told me not to shoot groups with a suppressor attached with a 22. I have never heard of this. Is there any truth to this? Also for convenience purposes I went with an Mcarbo trigger spring. I don’t see much talk about them in the 22 world but we will see how it does
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Zero it with the can, it'll be fine. The extra weight out front will change the barrel harmonics and you'll probably have a poi shift if you shoot without it. It's not a bad idea to shoot with and without to see what happens, then go with what groups better. Cans are more "fun" than function for .22LR imo.
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Ya I will give it a try with and without suppressor. What is typical poi shift with a 22? My nomad 30 on my ruger American was about 4”
Hard to say. It'll depend on barrel length, contour, and can weight. Probably some other factors too but I don't know them. I always shoot with the can because accuracy is has been acceptable so why not?
I just got my T1x, gonna put a pst gen ii 5-25x50 on it with a 30 MOA base. What do y'all recommend for rings?
I have an Arken EP5 arriving this week, does anyone have one sitting on a A419 30moa rail? I'm trying to figure out the minimum ring height I'll need as a starting point. Unfortunately not in a position to buy several heights at once and return the ones I don't use. Thanks.
You will need something like the Arken mediums @ 1.26" or around there with the lenses caps. The lows will not work. I have the MDT 1.25" on mine with the A419 30moa rail. I probably could have gone a bit lower but I didn't want to chance it and like you I am not fond of buying/trying several sets of rings at once.
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Finally grabbed a T1X .22LR!!!! Been wanting one since ‘18!
Had wanted the 16” and run a suppressor, but my lazy rear end hasn’t bought a .22 can yet, and the 20” felt way better in my hands than the 16”, so went 20”.
Haven’t shot it yet, but so far like it way better than the RAR I had. Much stiffer stock, better ergos, more mass without being too heavy.
Will likely start with a 419 30moa rail. Have a Athlon Talos 4-14x44 sitting in Warne lows (don’t THINK I’ll have a problem there). Grab a trigger spring of some sort, but will likely only take it down to 24oz or so.
I like the idea of the add-on Vert Grip and add-on fat forend. It seems like it’d be fairly easy to add/remove weight fore and aft to go from match toy (nothing too serious)to precision squirrel genocide. If I like it as well as I think, I’ll likely do that, DIP bolt knob, paint job, and sundry other bells and whistles.
Can’t wait!!!
Had wanted the 16” and run a suppressor, but my lazy rear end hasn’t bought a .22 can yet, and the 20” felt way better in my hands than the 16”, so went 20”.
Haven’t shot it yet, but so far like it way better than the RAR I had. Much stiffer stock, better ergos, more mass without being too heavy.
Will likely start with a 419 30moa rail. Have a Athlon Talos 4-14x44 sitting in Warne lows (don’t THINK I’ll have a problem there). Grab a trigger spring of some sort, but will likely only take it down to 24oz or so.
I like the idea of the add-on Vert Grip and add-on fat forend. It seems like it’d be fairly easy to add/remove weight fore and aft to go from match toy (nothing too serious)to precision squirrel genocide. If I like it as well as I think, I’ll likely do that, DIP bolt knob, paint job, and sundry other bells and whistles.
Can’t wait!!!
I don't think there is a consesnsus that this is necessary. Had no noticeable improvement AFAIK. If you swap out to a KRG or soemthing you will free float the barell for sure 100% in that setup, and again, I don't think there is evidence of accuracy improvements. Likewise, I don't think there is a consesnsus that removing it hurts either...seems like you just have to try it out in your own setup...and just make a call if you like it better.
Torque the action screws to 30 inch/lbs and try it there first. You might be surprised. Using good ammo, of course.
It can work with it in or out, but I find it easier to tune with it in.
T1X in a MDT XRS; shoots really well at 50 with norma match ammo. Question; I've got the trigger down to about 1.5lbs and I'm having trouble with it resetting here and there; does it need to be pushed back up to about 2lbs to be reliable in reset? Am I looking at an aftermarket spring or adjustment to keep it reliable at 1.5? Is there a specific way or force that I should be pushing on the bolt handle to make sure that it does reset every time?
Adjust the trigger to where you think it is functioning correctly. Put the action back in the stock. Close the bolt. DO NOT USE ANY LIVE AMMO.
Hold the rifle vertical. Bang the butt pad on the floor a few times. If the sear lets go on its own go back and readjust higher.
If it can't pass the bump test it is not safe to use.
Finally got mine to the range yesterday. Talos 4-14, 419 30moa rail.
Trigger screw was only 3/4 of a turn from the stop, so I let it be. Tolerable for now, will likely pitch a spring in it later.
Will likely upgrade bolt handle, new grip, and wide forend later on.
Really does need a spacer and a pad. I’ve got arms like a chimpanzee and I feel like a monkey screwing a football on this thing.
Fed/ejected so soft and smooth I thought it had missed rounds early on. You do have to yerk on the bolt pretty good to get brass clear.
Sweet rifle. Way easier to drive than the Ruger American I had.
Groups were shot with the sun in my face and no rear rest, so don’t be too rough on me.
That was my last 10 rounds of Eley Contact
Trigger screw was only 3/4 of a turn from the stop, so I let it be. Tolerable for now, will likely pitch a spring in it later.
Will likely upgrade bolt handle, new grip, and wide forend later on.
Really does need a spacer and a pad. I’ve got arms like a chimpanzee and I feel like a monkey screwing a football on this thing.
Fed/ejected so soft and smooth I thought it had missed rounds early on. You do have to yerk on the bolt pretty good to get brass clear.
Sweet rifle. Way easier to drive than the Ruger American I had.
Groups were shot with the sun in my face and no rear rest, so don’t be too rough on me.
That was my last 10 rounds of Eley Contact
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Got some new glass for my T1x... Loving the way this looks for small game hunting, especially with the flush 5rd Mag.
Added a minimalist spigot and my first Atlas. Stabilitus Maximus I'm impressed, shame I didn't focus the camera properly or it'd be a pretty nice picture!
