with the T1x,, are you guys using the bolt knob for the t3x? or only the one made for the t1x?
Only the one for the T1X. Entirely different bolt handle systems.
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with the T1x,, are you guys using the bolt knob for the t3x? or only the one made for the t1x?
The best trigger for a 10/22 is the Kidd trigger. You can get the single stage down to 1.5 pounds or go with a 2-stage that will go down to 3/3 ounces for a total of a 6 ounce pull. Personally, I like the 8 ounce/8 ounce (totaling 1 pound) 2-stage trigger setup. It's light enough that it'll take a little time getting used to it (an excuse to go shooting). But once you do, you'll be unhappy with something along the lines of BX trigger.
If the don't like the trigger pull weight ordered, you can adjust the Kidd trigger yourself. Or you can ship it back to Kidd and they will adjust it for you for the cost of return shipping (~$5).
DO we know what the threading is on the barrel?
Hell that settles it.
I was all for the RPR and have a CZ 455 but the fact that I have a tikka t3 and stocks makes me want to get one of these bad.
I can drop it in my KKC stock no problem.
Wonder about getting a enlarge bolt knob for it - (i.e. does it replace as easy as the regular t3).
Any word on the chamber type?
If it is the same as the quad what would that be and how well does it work?
littlepod,
When you decide which Kidd trigger you want, check on eBay for the same configuration. Kidd sells direct on eBay and the last couple of Kidd 2-stage triggers I bought for a little less on eBay. My latest order I saved the cost of shipping. Not a lot, but every little bit helps.
Single stage:
Security Measure
www.ebay.com
Two stage:
Security Measure
www.ebay.com
While I have a slight preference for the flat trigger, I bought curved 2-stage trigger last time at a better price of $289:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIDD-Two-S...for-a-10-22-or-Ruger-10-22-BRCEX/293083172640
Disclosure: If I hadn't liked the curved version, I have a spare flat blade that I could have put into the trigger.
I don't 'love' my BX trigger but it's also not terrible. I tinkered w/ it a bit when new. IIRC a bit of synthetic motor oil on the over travel spring in the rubber cover look a some of the mushiness away.
Link?
The first pistol looks a bit like my old Smith and Wesson 5906.LOL, yeah, no need to put them up. I don't have those but what are the 5906 and 6906?
Just got email back from Benchmark Barrels and it looks like they charge $365 just for their .9" blank, and they also do not do rimfire chambering. Talking to a local gunsmith they quoted me about $400-600 to chamber the profile depending on if they had the reamer there or if they had to rent the reamer.
Right now it looks like the best upgrade is Federssen barrel + Find a local smith that can do the chamber end reaming ~$100-200, which would put you around $400ish. Or the IBI barrel. I emailed IBI to see what reamer they used if it was Lapua, or Eley, etc.
Call Randy at CPC. He would do a barrel (Feddersen or green mountain) for a decent price (probably around 150ish if I remember correctly). It’s been a while since I talked to him but he was willing a few months ago to give it a go.
Nice guy to talk to
Got a chance to put some rounds through the International Barrels T1X prefit barrel.
This one is a 22" with the Eley EPS chamber (which is a new chamber for me)
these arent for sale yet in the states but will be soon.
shot some test groups through it (pictured) and it really liked SK rifle match, which is awesome because i have a ton of it.
I heated up the factory barrel and removed it, set the headspace at .042" with feeler gauges and away we went!
the Failure to Eject is becoming a real headache. Was hoping the new barrel might miraculously help that issue but sadly, no change. Bent the paper clip ejector, hoping that will do the trick...again.
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Oh oops, sorry switched context. I meant for the Tikka T1X. I don't think there's any precut Tikka T1X from anyone except IBI.
Frank. I know someone else said they fit a 10/22 barrel in this thread but when I took one to my gunsmith he said it couldn’t be done properly. The tenon on the 10/22 barrel is .05” smaller than the receiver diameter. The only way it can be done properly is to cut the barrel down and completely re chamber it. I’m not sure how the other member did it. Maybe he filled the gap with something. If I was going to rebarrel the rifle though I wanted it done right and to get the maximum accuracy potential out of it. I did notice the other member never reported back about how it shot after the conversion though. I would like to see what kind of accuracy he was getting.
Where/who did you hear it from?I hear that IBI barrels are $319.
The Feddersen blank was $165 shipped and it should be another $120-150 to have it chambered and fitted. I’m also going to cover the cost of a new reamer which should be right around $100. I’m guessing most people will not need to spend that though. Anyway without the reamer all in I’m looking at right around $300.
I have had great luck in the past with Feddersen barrels. I may have been to able to squeeze a little more accuracy out of a Lilja or Bartlein but between the additional cost and wait time to get it I decided the Feddersen was a better option for me. This rifle is being used for positional PRS style 22 matches so shooting a 0.1 smaller group at 50 yards really will not matter for my purposes. Now if this was a bench rest rifle it might be a different story.
Where/who did you hear it from?
Did IBI ever get their import license finalized?
Dust a FYI, I called Feddersen and they do not sell .17 rimfire barrels. I didn’t see any on their site so I called to make sure.
I’ve emailed Clint Beyer if he has or would make T1x barrels and he may in the future, but not at this time.
Looks like I’m going to send mine to LRI for trimming as I like shorter barrels
I’ve emailed Clint Beyer if he has or would make T1x barrels and he may in the future, but not at this time.
Looks like I’m going to send mine to LRI for trimming as I like shorter barrels
Been looking at this thread and decided to join. I’m looking for a T1X now, any advice as to what to upgrade and not?