Tikka T1X

I was 22nd in line at Whittakers. Got it mocked up tonight. Will attack the Bravo with the mill this weekend.

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I was 22nd in line at Whittakers. Got it mocked up tonight. Will attack the Bravo with the mill this weekend.

Post detailed pics if you have the time. I don't want to wait until April to get my Bravo. Picked my trainer up yesterday. As a side note are yall leaving the plastic thing in the barrel channel or taking it out?
 
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Put the first few hundred rounds through mine recently. I found the bolt lift to be quite heavy. Ive really got to get a solid hold on the stock with my off hand to run the bolt. Anyone else have this issue?
 
You guys should ask Euro Optic about their Tikka availability. I saw the time estimates in here so I put in a pre-order with them two weeks go. They told me not to expect much for 6 months. 3 days later I get their email that my gun is ready to ship.
 
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Put the first few hundred rounds through mine recently. I found the bolt lift to be quite heavy. Ive really got to get a solid hold on the stock with my off hand to run the bolt. Anyone else have this issue?

When I let the tension off the spring for the bolt mine is incredibly difficult to cycle. I don't even know if your supposed to do that but dad always taught me to take the tension off to store a rifle. I've stopped doing it with this rifle since it makes it so difficult to cycle the bolt the first time.

Normal function though I can pretty easily work mine with my pointer finger, I did drop a little Wilson Ultima lube on the bolt and work it 100 times or so when I first got the rifle, but honestly it doesn't feel any different now.
 
THANKS! That's what I wanted to see. I haven't taken mine apart yet, so I could get how the T1x mag would work in the bigger magwell. So how does it work? No problem dropping or putting the mag in? Thanks for the pics I appreciate it!
 
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THANKS! That's what I wanted to see. I haven't taken mine apart yet, so I could get how the T1x mag would work in the bigger magwell. So how does it work? No problem dropping or putting the mag in? Thanks for the pics I appreciate it!
I've had one in a krg bravo since late November-ish. Over a couple of thousand through it now, no issues on dropping the mag but havent really done a lot of reloading drills on the clock as I have only had 1 per rifle- until I get my europtic package...
 
When I let the tension off the spring for the bolt mine is incredibly difficult to cycle. I don't even know if your supposed to do that but dad always taught me to take the tension off to store a rifle. I've stopped doing it with this rifle since it makes it so difficult to cycle the bolt the first time.

Normal function though I can pretty easily work mine with my pointer finger, I did drop a little Wilson Ultima lube on the bolt and work it 100 times or so when I first got the rifle, but honestly it doesn't feel any different now.

I definitely can’t run the bolt with my pointer finger. I’ll drop some oil on the bolt and shoot it some more. Maybe it will get better, but I don’t really understanding the mechanics of bolt lift and cocking that causing the problem.
 
That Bravo KRG chassis looks nice. Thanks for posting the 6.5 Guys video.

I received two 10 round mags yesterday from Euro Optics - I ordered them last Thrusday 1-31, and they came on Monday. They were really tight - took a good deal force to pack the 10th round in the new mags.

Two out of three that I got from Whitakers had a similar problem. Does anyone know how to disassemble the mags?
 
Happen to have any shots of how you solved for the front attachment point of the Bravo trigger guard? The T1x magwell bolt interferes, big time.


No photo's but a pretty decent description of what I had to do to the krg is somewhere around page 10 or so and the mpa and tikka tac t3x chassis modifications are a little later in the thread. How you reengineer the triggergaurd is probably limited to the tools on hand / your skills but you could probably do it with tig welds, dowel or tension pins or drill and tap for flat head screws,take head to my comments on how Justin skelotonized the triggergaurd, there isn't a lot of extra meat, plan it out before you do it....

@cannoncrossfire

The chassis backbone is attached to the triggergaurd by a button head screw in front and the action screw in back.

Unfortunately the T1x mag housing bolts to the action with a rather large metric shcs. (See my post a few pages back for pictures) You will have to reengineer the front triggergaurd attachment as you have to mill through hole for the button head to provide clearance for the shcs. I trimmed the head of the shcs on a lathe to minimize the amount of material removed but still cut all the way through the centersection of backbone and down into the triggergaurd.To allow the mag to seat the front of the triggergaurd will have to be milled to allow for the basepad as the mag seats.

@Massoud did a really good job of skeletonizing the triggergaurd so plan your front attachment well, there isn't a lot of extra "meat" a traditional solid xlr/mdt/mcree would be a lot easier to modify probably
Modifications necessary:
Make clearance cuts for shcs on mag housing and bolt stop
View attachment 6982373
No bolt stop was molested in this modification like suggested by another posterView attachment 6982375
On both chassis I have modified the mag catch had to be removed and approximately. 050 removed from the back of the magwell to a certain point to allow the mag to fully seat.View attachment 6982376
 
No photo's but a pretty decent description of what I had to do to the krg is somewhere around page 10 or so and the mpa and tikka tac t3x chassis modifications are a little later in the thread. How you reengineer the triggergaurd is probably limited to the tools on hand / your skills but you could probably do it with tig welds, dowel or tension pins or drill and tap for flat head screws,take head to my comments on how Justin skelotonized the triggergaurd, there isn't a lot of extra meat, plan it out before you do it....

Thanks for the summation, Skinnj. Luckily I have access to a lathe and mill that I'm familiar with. I did reach out to Moussod (w/ KRG) to see if he could/would share how they solved it on the t1x Bravo they brought to SHOT, but haven't heard back. I would assume it's a whole new trigger guard design.
 
This is fun. DIP rail came. Then the rings and bubble levels. Scope came in. Tomorrow I will pick up the T1X .22lr and put it all together. I will have to wait for about 2 weeks to shoot it, work schedule.

BIG shout out to guns not groceries for the tip on Beretta Promo Code. 3 mags on the way.

SWEET.
 
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Alright fellas. Here's one way to make a t1x fit in a Bravo. Main issue is interference between the front attachment point of the Bravo trigger guard, and the t1x magwell attachment point. This post will be process, next post will be finished product.

First, a teaser:
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Here's the interference problem:
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My solution was to cut away the bridge where the front of the trigger guard used to bolt, to allow clearance for the magwell and bolt. I then moved the mounting point for the trigger guard lower by machining a piece of 7075 to slide into the Bravo's channel.
IMG_0297.jpg

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Once the trigger guard was cut down, we lost the threads. Retapping:
IMG_0308.jpg
 
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Got some more mags from Beretta. Thanks for the tip. Shot the 17's this weekend and had pretty good luck with the CCI Green. Hornady NTX was good, but not quite as tight. (have to shoot non-lead for gr. squirrels in CA :poop:)